As I have mentioned is previous posts, we LOVE the islands of the Mediterranean. They are some of my favorite destinations in world. After visiting Mallorca and Menorca (which belong to Spain), the next island on our list was Sardinia (part of Italy). We had been to Sardinia’s northern island neighbor, Corsica (part of France) years ago and from the beautiful southern coastal town of Bonafacio we could see Sardinia in the distance, only about 12 km (7.5 miles) away. We visited Sardinia in October, which is a great time to go – the water was still warm and the crowds were limited.
I will be sharing more posts on our Sardinian adventures soon, but first here are some things you may not know about about this beautiful island.
Although an autonomous region, Sardinia is definitely Italian. Some Americans have never heard of Sardinia and really have no idea that it’s part of Italy. The Sards have their own language but of course speak Italian, English, and other European languages quite fluently. It was easy for us to get by on English and a few Italian phrases. The food and gelato are wonderful, as in other regions of Italy.
This is important to keep in mind when planning a trip – allow two or three weeks to see the whole island or if you have less time, perhaps concentrate your time in one region. Sardinia is the 2nd largest island in the Mediterranean (just slightly smaller than Sicily) but has just 1/3 of Sicily’s population. It is about 170 miles long and 90 miles wide. We covered a lot of ground in two weeks, but still did not see everything (see map above), including the southwest coast.
Sardinia has an embarrassment of beaches – no matter where you are on the island, you’re close to some of the best beaches in the world. The Gulf of Orosei on the eastern side of the island has a breathtaking coast although it’s not easily accessible, except by boat or via some steep hiking trails.
Some beaches might have a refreshment stand, a few might be close to some resorts, but often there are no hotels or condos anywhere to be seen. Admittedly, there are (just a few) beaches that are so popular you must have reservations during the high season or can only be accessed with a guide, and there a few beaches that are not accessible at all – due to preservation efforts, speaking of which…
From pink sand beaches to shiny quartz sand beaches to powdery white sand, the sand is beautiful everywhere. However, don’t even think about taking a sample home with you. You will be fined. You are also required to have mats underneath your beach towels so as to not inadvertently trap sand and take it home in your towels.
Unless you plan to go straight from the airport to a resort and straight back to the airport or plan on a tour by a group bus, a car is the only way to really see the island and reach some of the beaches and tourist sites. Some sights or hiking trails are remote. Since the island’s population is sparse, driving was not a problem – I did not feel rushed or on edge with crazy drivers pushing me to speed up or forcing me to get out of the way.
Friendly, welcoming locals – check. Beautiful beaches – check. Warm, clear water – check and check. Charming medieval towns – check. Fascinating ancient historical sights – check. Remote mountains, rock climbing, forests and hiking trails – check, check, check and check. Diving – check. Excellent food – check. What more could a person want?
As funny as it may sound, Sardinia can be considered a ‘mainland’ and just off its coast (such as the northeast coast) lie an archipelago of islands (the main island is La Maddalena – see map above) accessible by only ferry and smaller boat, some of which are part of a national park. These islands are home to some of the best beaches and best hikes anywhere in Sardinia.
In the 1960’s Coasta Esmeralda was popularized and has since become a jet-setting hotspot. This part of the northeast coast (near Olbia) certainly has some beautiful beaches and coastline. While you will find big yachts, high-end real estate, retail and eating establishments here, this is just one small enclave of the island. The rest of the island seems unfazed (and untouched) by the movie star and billionaire crowd.
Sardinia isn’t quite on the main tourist map yet, although posts like this don’t help! The majority of visitors are Italian (this is their backyard!), followed by French and Germans. On one of our boat tours, we were with some Swiss and Belgian tourists. We ran into a few tourists from the U.S., but not many. Very few tourists seem to explore the whole island, there are lots of “untouched” little mountain villages and quiet beaches to find solitude if that’s your thing.
Word is getting out, so go now! Here’s one of my recommended websites for great information on Sardinia tourism. I read almost every post Claudia has written, very helpful. Of course, I will be publishing information on each region of Sardinia we visited over the course of the coming weeks.
Note: Featured image – Cala Marilou, Gulf of Orosei