Poland

Warsaw Part II – Warsaw Under Nazi Occupation

Poland suffered terribly in World War II. The War began in Poland on September 1^st, 1939 with the simultaneous German invasions of Gdańsk and Warsaw. By early October, Polish resistance was eliminated. Shortly thereafter, the Soviet Union moved into eastern Poland and the country was partitioned between the two powers. On the Soviet side, millions of Poles were sent to Siberia and on the German side Polish Jews (there were originally three million) were rounded up into ghettos or sent to concentration camps.

In Warsaw alone 800,000 Poles died as a result of the terrors of World War II, more than double the entire number of U.S. casualties. Although much of Warsaw was rebuilt after the War, there are remnants of this dark period left for the tourist to explore.

The Mausoleum of Struggle & Martyrdom

In this building, the feared secret state police of Nazi Germany (“The Gestapo”) tortured and interrogated thousands of Poles who were accused of crimes against the Nazi state or suspected of having valuable information.

A street view of The Mausoleum of Struggle & Martyrdom. This museum is free.

The Gestapo officer’s desk.

The tortures were many and varied, they included being beaten with a variety of instruments, or being hung upside down with water pumped into the nose, the use of electric shocks, being burnt with irons, and sometimes being forced to watch while a family member was tortured.

A display of various interrogation/torture devices.

The rooms are well sign-posted in English and when you realize you are in the exact spot where so many innocent people suffered, it is a moving experience.

Cell doors in the museum.

Prisoners were kept in cells like this (and chained as shown) and sometimes interrogated for weeks or months–often with little food, sometimes ill, often beaten and without a bed.

Prisoners would wait in these chairs for questioning, sometimes for days. They were not allowed to fall asleep, talk or move. If you violated the rules you might be beaten to death.

The Warsaw Ghetto

As a way of controlling the Jewish population, in 1940 the Germans built a ghetto compound in Warsaw by erecting walls with barbed wire down the middle of streets.

A portion of the Warsaw Ghetto wall.

Information about the Warsaw Ghetto is posted on the wall.

About 360,000 local Jews and 90,000 Jews from other locations were moved here. During the summer of 1942, 300,000 Jews were transported to the Treblinka death camp and gassed. The ghetto was systematically destroyed in 1943 after the remaining occupants were killed or moved to various concentration camps. Today, there is very little left to see, except for a bit of the wall with information plaques.

This building is a survivor from World War II. The facade is pockmarked with bullet holes. It’s located on Ul Próżna street, just a few blocks from the Ghetto wall.

Monument to the Warsaw Uprising

This is one of the most important landmarks in Warsaw. It commemorates the August 1, 1944 uprising by the Poles against the German Army, just as the Germans were losing ground to the advancing Soviet forces from the east. The Poles fought bravely for 63 days and actually were successful to start, but they were eventually overwhelmed by the Germans. Hitler destroyed the city in retribution for the uprising and about 200,000 Poles were killed. The Soviet Army could have actually helped the Poles, but Stalin told his army to stand down and let the Germans destroy the Polish resistance, to take any “fight” they had left in them, in preparation for the Soviet and communist takeover of the country early in 1945.

The bronze sculpture shows the Polish fighters emerging from the brickwork of their ruined city and descending into the city sewers, which were used as an underground communications system. It was unveiled on August 1, 1989, 45 years after the uprising.

While modern Warsaw is far removed from the horrors of World War II, I was glad to see the remaining bits of history, so that those of us who now visit have an opportunity to remember and honor those who gave their lives defending their country from tyranny.

Reference: Lonely Planet Poland Travel Guide

Sights of Warsaw – Part I

Warsaw is Poland’s largest city and the country’s capital. It has a number of sights to entertain the tourist. If I had to make a choice and could only visit either Krakow or Warsaw, I would pick Krakow. However Warsaw is still quite interesting and we found it easy to spend a couple days wandering the sights prior to our departure from Poland. For a map of places we visited in Poland, click here.

A decorative ledge support staring down on us in Warsaw Old Town.

This post will focus on some of the general tourist highlights and my follow-up post will focus on several key World War II sights in Warsaw.

A fountain in the Saxon Gardens, Warsaw’s first public park (early 18th century). The park is modeled on the gardens at Versailles, France.

Warsaw is a big city, but it has an extensive tram and bus system, which are pretty easy to navigate. Any of the hotels will have a good map with the primary tourist destinations highlighted. You can find about any kind of food in Warsaw.

One of our delicious meals in Warsaw.

In addition to traditional Polish fare, we found an excellent Indian restaurant on the Royal Way.

Palaces

There are a number of palaces in Warsaw and the two below are just a sample.

Wilanów Palace

This is a very impressive 17^th century palace, a tiny bit reminiscent of Versailles, but on a much smaller scale. It was a summer residence of the Polish king.

A view of Wilanów Palace, with its beautiful gardens.

Another view of Wilanów Palace.

The best and most impressive views are on the eastern side, which leads down to a lake. Be sure to visit the manicured gardens.

Palace on the Water

Located in the expansive Łazienki Park, this late 17^th century palace was also a summer residence of the Polish king, Stanisław August. It is built on a narrow lake.

An exterior view of the Palace on the Water.

It was undergoing some restoration work during our visit, but is still very impressive.

Interior view of the Palace on the Water.

The Park itself is definitely worth wandering for its the impressive gardens and fountains, and they\Park has Chopin concerts in the summer.

Old Town

Warsaw has a historic center, but unfortunately the original Old Town was flattened by the Germans in World War II in retribution for the Polish uprising (more on that in my next post).

The Royal Way leads north into Old Town from modern Warsaw.

The Royal Palace (on the right) is at the entrance to Warsaw’s Old Town. It has been reconstructed since World War II.

The Barbican. A main medieval gate into Old Town Warsaw.

A horse-drawn carriage on a street in Old Town Warsaw.

The Old Town has been restored over the past 50 years, although I found the restoration a little less impressive than Gdansk. I think my impression was affected by the construction work going on in one of the main squares during our visit that made the area a bit less atmospheric.

Visitants’ Church (Visitation Sisters’ Church of St. Joseph)

The world renowned Polish composer and pianist Frédéric Chopin (1810 – 1849) is a local hero. This church, right on the Royal Way that leads to Old Town is significant since Chopin played the organ here. The Visitants’ Church was constructed in the mid 1700’s and survived the bombings of World War II.

The Baroque exterior of the Visitants’ Church.

Interior of the Visitants’ Church.

There is also a Chopin Museum nearby, but we did not make it to the museum. Also along the Royal Way are some other interesting churches.

St. Anne’s Church, considered the most ornate church in Warsaw. It escaped major damage in World War II.

Church of the Holy Cross. It contains an urn with the remains of the heart of Frédéric Chopin, which was brought here from Paris after his death, according to his wishes.

Auschwitz – Birkenau

The main gate to Auschwitz-Birkenau. The trains full of Jews and others from across Europe would stop either outside this gate or pass through to unload their unfortunate passengers.

In my previous post, I shared some photos and thoughts about Auschwitz I, the well-known “original” Auschwitz concentration camp. Auschwitz II (or Auschwitz-Birkenau) is located just 3 kilometers from Auschwitz I and was designed more specifically as a death factory and for some, a slave labor camp. More than 1.1 million people passed through here, about 700,000 of which were immediately sent to the gas chambers. When the Soviet Army liberated the camp in January 1945, only 7,000 inmates were left alive.

Guard towers along the 12 kilometers of fence at the camp.

The camp could hold about 100,000 people at any given time. Below I provide some images in more or less the order of the process of events that happened to those who suffered this terrible fate.

An example of a freight car that would bring the prisoners to the camp. The prisoners would unload at this spot after long and cramped journey, and after a quick examination, most would be herded to the gas chambers.

The road from the train unloading area to the gas chambers and crematoria where hundreds of thousands walked to their deaths.

After walking the long road, the victims would wait in these peaceful woods for their turn in the gas chambers.

A photo of the victims waiting patiently in the woods for the end.

A picture of the crematoria where the bodies would be burned after gassing.

The ruins of Crematoria II. The building was blown up by the Nazis to try to cover up its purpose.

A plaque noting the pond in the background, where the ashes of thousands were dumped from the crematoria.

If you were “fortunate” enough to be selected for slave labor, you were processed through this building where you were stripped, shaved, tattooed, showered and given your prison uniform. All of your remaining possessions were taken away.

Many women were housed in these brick barracks, with 8 prisoners to a “shelf” covered by rotting straw in a swampy area with no actual floor other than hardened dirt.

Most men where housed in these wooden barracks, some of which were horse stables originally.

Inside the wooden barracks. 1,000 men would be housed in a building that previously held 52 horses.

The latrines in the barracks. I can’t imagine the horror of the living conditions.

The literal end of the rail line, between Crematoria II and III. On this spot there is now the International Monument to the Camp Victims.

Practical Information:

I would highly suggest starting your visit at Auschwitz I and then driving over to Auschwitz II to continue your tour (lots of parking available outside the camp). The excellent map and guide book you can purchase at the first camp will provide a good overview and directions at Auschwitz II, which is a huge site (425 acres, 98 buildings with ruins of 300 more–be prepared for a lot of walking). Also, Auschwitz II is very well sign posted (as is Auschwitz I), providing information (and some photos) in English, Hebrew as well as Polish and German.

A Visit to Auschwitz

The main gate with its archway which says “Freedom Through Work” or “Work Makes You Free”. New arrival prisoners would pass under this sign and hear a “orchestra” playing. Every day thousands would march out to their slave labor assignments and return carrying their dead fellow prisoners.

Auschwitz is one of the most infamous and well known set of Nazi concentration camps from World War II. There are actually two main camps open to tourists, known as Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II (or Auschwitz-Birkenau). This post will focus on Auschwitz I. I will share more about Auschwitz-Birkenau in a separate post.

One of the fence lines at Auschwitz I. The building behind me was where the confiscated belongings of the prisoners were kept, along with the supplies of the poison gas.

Auschwitz I was originally a Polish Army barracks and was turned into a concentration camp in 1940 on the orders of Heinrich Himmler, after the fall of Poland in 1939. The first prisoners were mainly Polish men who were political prisoners of the Third Reich.

Eventually others were sent here, including Polish women, Jews from all over Europe as well as Soviet prisoners of war. Soviet POW’s came to number about 10,000 starting in 1941 and were sectioned off in the camp to certain blocks (buildings). Within 5 months, 9,000 had died, due to hunger, brutality, exposure to freezing weather or being gassed.

In the center of this area, the SS officer in charge of the roll-call would receive reports of the prisoners present. If anyone was missing, the prisoners would have to stand at attention until the SS were satisfied, regardless of the weather and sometimes for 12 hours or more.

The gallows, where many prisoners were hung as a warning to others. In July 1943, 12 Poles were hung, suspected of helping 3 prisoners escape.

Anne Frank (whose diary as a young girl about life in hiding from the Nazis in Amsterdam has been widely published) was held here but was later transferred to Bergen-Belsen camp where she died. Her father, Otto, somehow survived Auschwitz and returned to Amsterdam after the War. Another famous prisoner was Viktor E. Frankl, who wrote the book Man’s Search for Meaning based on his experiences at Auschwitz.

The crammed barracks. Sometimes 200 people were crowded into rooms mean to house 40 or 50 people.

Lavatories at Auschwitz I.

Some photos of victims at Auschwitz I.

All in all, about 400,000 men, women and children were sent to Auschwitz I. At any given time, 13,000 – 16,000 would be housed in the camp. Due to the horrific conditions as well as the outright execution of numerous prisoners, the mortality rate was high, about two-thirds of the prisoners did not survive.

The room where execution decisions were made. (The poor picture quality is due to reflections on the glass in front of the room).

The infamous yard bertween cell Blocks 10 and 11. Block 11 was known as the “death block.” Prisoners were tortured and shot here. From 1941 to 1943 several thousand were shot by the SS on this spot. Floggings also took place here and torture, such as being hung from a post by your wrists tied behind you. In the basement of cell Block 11 are a number of torture rooms. We were not allowed to take pictures inside that area.

This was the only concentration camp where prisoners were tattooed to aid in identification due to the large number of corpses.

There were 700 attempted escapes, about 400 were recaptured. If a Polish prisoner escaped, his family was rounded up and sent to Auschwitz, and made to stand under a sign indicating why they had been arrested, as a warning to other prisoners.

Initially, the mass killing of Jews was not part of the purpose of Auschwitz; it wasn’t until about 1943 that the Germans started perfecting their gassing techniques and killing Jews by the hundreds of thousands in Auschwitz-Birkenau. However, Auschwitz I was one of the experimental locations for large scale gassing operations.

Originally an ammunition bunker, this room became a gas chamber during the years 1941 – 1943. Thousands were gassed here, some immediately upon their arrival, including Jews, Soviet POW’s and some Polish prisoners as well. Pellets of Zyklon B were dropped through the ceiling.

The ovens at Auschwitz I, which each could burn 2-3 corpses at a time and up to 350 per day. In July 1943, the burning of corpses stopped as the killing operations were moved to Auschwitz II.

Practical Information:

Auschwitz (Oświęcim is Polish) is about 67 km (41 miles) southwest of Kraków and can be done as a day trip. We visited on our way into Kraków from Częstochowa. Allow at least four hours to see both camps, which are about 3 km (2 miles) from each other. Get your tickets and guide maps (essential) at Auschwitz I which is right next to the town. Auschwitz-Birkenau (also called Auschwitz II) is a much larger site, slightly farther out of town. Tours are available, but we felt the guidebooks did a great job explaining the history and operations of the camps. Also note if you get to Auschwitz I after 10 am (as I recall) you’ll be required to take a tour and won’t be able to walk around on your own. In Auschwitz I, many of the barrack buildings house different exhibits on life in the camp, the history of the holocaust, and experiences of different cultures and countries during the War.

Be forewarned: A visit here is gut-wrenching and depressing. However, the exhibits and information are well organized and almost overwhelming. Understanding this dark period of the world’s history is important so that we will never allow something like this to happen again.

References: Site plaques and brochures from Auschwitz. For an excellent review of the history of Auschwitz, read Auschwitz: A New History by Laurence Rees.

Kraków—Part 3—Schindler’s Factory and the Jewish Quarter

The front facade of Schindler’s Factory.

One of the highlights of a visit to Kraków is a stop at Schindler’s Factory, on the southeastern edge of the city in the district of Podgórze. Oskar Schindler was immortalized in Steven Spielberg’s movie Schindler’s List (1993) as the man who saved about 1,200 Jews during World War II by employing them in his factory making goods for the German military.

Sign in front of the Factory Museum. "Whoever saves one life, saves the world entire."

Photos of Jews saved by Oskar Schindler.

A photo of Oskar Schindler (left).

“For some, war leaves no choice; for others it makes choosing a must. A small gesture can yield irreversible consequences. It can either save a life or ruin it.” (A quote from the Schindler museum)

The factory building is still standing and is now an excellent museum, describing the invasion and occupation of Poland by Nazi Germany (1939 to 1945) and daily life in the huge Jewish Ghetto of Kraków, where thousands of Jews were crammed into tiny quarters after their homes and possessions were confiscated by the Nazis. There are numerous pictures, exhibits, stories and displays of what life was like during the Nazi occupation. I really can’t imagine the constant terror of not knowing what will be your fate – will you live through the night, will your family be taken from you, or will you be shot to death on a whim?

Prior to my visit, I had hoped to see the actual factory floor as an exhibit, but all that remains of the actual factory are a few machines, Schindler’s office and some of the goods manufactured in the factory. However, the well-organized museum is definitely worth visiting. Plan a few hours to see and absorb all the information.

Schindler’s office and desk.

Some of the products Schindler’s Factory produced.

One of the metal-working machines from Schindler’s Factory.

Schindler’s Factory is a long walk from the center of Kraków, or take a tram from the main post office in the Old Town. There are signs marking the way to the Factory from the tram stop.

A sign pointing the way to Schindler’s Factory.

Jewish Quarter

The Kraków district of Kazimierz (in between Old Town and Podgórze) is known as the Jewish quarter and it was a vibrant area prior to the deportation and extermination of the Jewish population during World War II.

ul Szeroka. The wide street or square that is the heart of the Jewish Quarter.

Only about 10% of the Jews living in Kraków survived the war. The community has undergone something of a revival since the release of Schindler’s List.

The Remuh Cemetery. Dates from the mid-16th century. Many of the tombstones were buried to avoid desecration. One of the best-preserved Renaissance Jewish cemeteries in Europe.

Remuh Synagogue. The smallest synagogue in this area. Completed in 1558.

Isaac’s Synagogue interior. Kraków’s largest synagogue, completed in 1644. A close inspection reveals the original wall paintings.

We enjoyed visiting the synagogues, wandering the streets and squares in this community. On some of the houses, information is provided on the families who lived there during World War II and their fate.

Reference: Lonely Planet Travel Guide – Poland

Kraków – Part 2 – Wawel Castle

A miniature layout of Wawel Castle. The main castle and cathedral are at the far end of the display.

One of the premier tourist sites in Kraków is Wawel Castle, located on a hill above the Vistula River on the southern edge of the old town. Wawel Castle was the home of the Polish kingdom for about 500 years (12^th century to 16^th century).

A view of Wawel Castle from the Vistula River.

A great way to see Wawel Castle’s exterior is by a carriage ride.

The Bernardyńska Gate to Wawel Castle.

Although a few foundation remnants of the original Castle still exist, what we see today is mainly from the 16^th century. Wawel suffered many attacks and lootings by the Swedish and Prussian armies over the centuries. It underwent significant restoration after World War I. Although the Castle sits on a bit of a hill, it cannot be seen from the main square in old Kraków.

The arcaded courtyard of Wawel Castle.

One of the ceilings in Wawel Castle.

In the Hall of the Senators, with its magnificent Biblical tapestries.

In the Hall of the Deputies – although it’s hard to tell, this is an image of the ceiling with 30 individually carved human heads, representing the cycle of life from birth to death. There were originally 194 carved heads (completed around the year 1535), these 30 are all that remain.

A major draw to the castle grounds is Wawel Cathedral, where numerous royal coronations and funerals have taken place. Inside, many of the tombs of Polish kings are seen. The current Cathedral dates from 1364, and is the third church on the site.

The exterior of Wawel Cathedral has a number of interesting facades.

One of the chapels in Wawel Cathedral.

Another view of Wawel Cathedral, with its ornate decorations.

The Castle is very busy, so plan ahead – we bought our tickets the day before we wanted to visit, and each ticket has a specific entry time (you can wander the grounds for free). There are five different ticket options, so you have to decide what you want to visit, such as the State Rooms, the Royal Private Apartments, the Crown Treasury & Armory, Oriental Art Exhibit, or Lost Wawel (where you see some of the old original foundations and other artifacts found at Wawel from ancient times). We toured the State Apartments and really enjoyed the artwork and beauty of the ornate chambers.

Note that backpacks are not allowed in the interior rooms, and must be checked into a locker. Due to severe restrictions on photographs, it’s almost impossible to take pictures inside the Castle and the Cathedral – I captured just the few above. So, you’ll have to take my word for it…visiting Wawel Castle and Cathedral are must-dos on a visit to Kraków.

Kraków, Poland – One of Europe’s Finest Cities – Part 1

When people think of great European cities, the standard list includes Paris, London and Rome, which of course all certainly belong on the list. Not too many people would name Kraków, and largely because they don’t know much about it.

The Royal Way in Kraków, which is the main thoroughfare through the old town. Very little vehicular traffic allowed in the old town, making it a pleasant place to walk.

Kraków was our favorite city in Poland and it’s one of our favorite cities in Europe. We love it because there are many things to see, it has a very classy feel to it, the people were wonderful, we had a great place to stay and the food (if you like hearty fare) was excellent. Kraków is a large, modern city, but the charming old town is relatively compact.

Our perfect apartment in Krakow, just a few minutes by foot from the old town. It is called Krakow Parkside Apartments. Highly recommended.

This is the first of three posts on Kraków. This great city also makes a good base for exploring the remains of the infamous Auschwitz Death Camps as well, which are located about 66 km (41 miles) west.

For a map of places we visited in Poland, click here.

Below are a few of the things that make Kraków a great place to visit. The list of things to see could go on and on, with a number of other museums, churches, statues and other historic places that we simply did not have time to visit.

Horse Carriage Rides. A highlight of visiting Kraków is taking a carriage ride around the old town. The rides start in Rynek Square and go to the north edge of old town before heading to south to Wawel Castle and returning to the Square.

The stately horse carriages in Rynek Square.

The ride cost about $10 US per person. It was a fun way to see the city and to enjoy the atmosphere. The carriages, drivers and horses are dressed up and ready to show you the town.

Getting ready for our ride.

Kraków Fortifications. Much of the original city was destroyed in the 13^th century by the Tatar invasions. The walls and towers we see today were built afterwards in the 13^th – 15^th centuries.

The Barbican, one of the few surviving structures of its kind in Europe. It was built around 1498. It has seven turrets, 130 loopholes (for firing arrows) and the walls are 3 meters thick. It helped defend the Florian Gate, which is part of the remaining defenses on the north side of Kraków’s old town.

What remains of these fortifications is on the north side of the old town. Although many of the old walls were torn down in the 19^th century, there is a ring-shaped park and walking paths that encircle old Kraków, following the foundations of the city walls.

Part of the old city walls, near the Florian Gate, the only one of the eight original gates remaining.

For a pleasant stroll and variety in exploring the town, take advantage of these paths.

Rynek Główny (Square). This is the heart of old Kraków and is the largest medieval square in Europe. Its layout was drawn up in 1257. During our visit, there was a festival going on, with lots of music, dancing, and numerous food stalls – we found it hard to pass any of these up! Sausages, potatoes, breads, deserts and other Polish specialties were to be found everywhere.

A roasting pig on Rynek Square.

The tower on the left is the only remaining part of the 15th century Town Hall. On the right is the Cloth Hall, both are in the central part of Rynek Square.

Also in Rynek Square is the Cloth Hall, which was the center of Kraków’s medieval clothing trade. There are numerous shops here (and a good place to get gelato), as well as the ticket office and entrance for the “Rynek Underground” exhibit, which provides an extensive view of excavated ruins underneath the Square, and exhibits of medieval life in Kraków.

A view of some of the medieval ruins in the extensive underground displays. Hard to get good photos, pretty dark down there.

Come to the Square at night for special atmosphere. There are lots of good restaurants around the Square.

Rynek Square at night.

St. Mary’s Church with its uneven towers faces Rynek Square.

Rynek Square is also the location of St. Mary’s Church, one of the most beautiful churches in Poland (and Europe for that matter). It is home of the Veit Stoss wood-carved pentaptych (three panel) altarpiece which took 10 years to complete and was consecrated in 1489. It is magnificent, and is considered one of the most important pieces of medieval art of its kind.

The marvelous Veit Stoss pentaptych in St. Mary’s Church, Krakow.

The pentaptych is only opened at certain times during the day, so check across the street (to the south of the visitor’s entrance) for times and tickets.

Another view in St. Mary’s Church – it takes awhile to absorb all the artwork in this church.

Church of SS Peter & Paul. This is a Jesuit church dating back to 1583. It’s on the Royal Way from Rynek Square to Wawel Castle, and has statues of the 12 apostles on columns at the front gate.

Church of SS Peter & Paul. Note the statues of the 12 apostles in front.

We were able to attend a concert in the large open interior on a Sunday evening, with a talented ensemble playing a number of classical compositions, including Vivaldi, Chopin, Bach, Mozart, Handel and others. This was particularly delightful given the setting and acoustics of the church.

The musicians at our concert in the Church of SS Peter & Paul

In future posts I will share some images of Wawel Castle and the Jewish Quarter, including Schindler’s Factory (recall the epic Steven Spielberg movie “Schindler’s List”).

Reference: Lonely Planet Travel Guide – Poland

Częstochowa – Poland’s Spiritual Center

Between 4 and 5 million visitors from 80 countries visit this town each year. They come to visit the Monastery of Jasna Góra, and specifically to see the 14^th century Black Madonna painting which according to legend was painted by St. Luke the Evangelist (author of the Gospel of Luke in the New Testament). It is credited with many miracles, such as the story of a looter who in 1430 attacked the painting with his sword two times but fell in pain and died before he could strike it a third time (the marks from his attack are visible).

Entrance to the Jasna Góra Monastery, on the south side of the complex.

The Black Madonna painting. It’s apparently black from centuries of soot. No one really knows for sure of its origin, but it is credited with saving the town during the Swedish aggression in the 1600’s.

This shrine is one of the great pilgrimage spots in the world, and famous visitors have included Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI. Many pilgrims arrive on foot after journeys of as long as 20 days. The painting is in the 14^th century Chapel of Our Lady and may be viewed during the day except from 12:00 – 1:30 pm and after 9:20 pm when it is covered.

The 14th century Chapel of Our Lady at Jasna Góra Monastery (the Black Madonna is at the lower center of the image, behind the gate).

In addition to the Chapel of Our Lady, be sure to visit the Basilica which dates from the 17^th century and has many Baroque features—it reminded me of monasteries in Germany and Austria (such as Melk Abbey).

The Baroque Basilica at the Jasna Góra Monastery.

The organ pipes in the Basilica of Jasna Góra.

Other attractions include several museums, a treasury and the Bell Tower, Poland’s tallest historic church tower at 106 meters (348 feet), which can be climbed.

The asymmetrical architecture inside the Monastery, a bit like Wawel Cathedral in Kraków.

Częstochowa makes a great overnight stop from Toruń to Krakow. The main street (a long Polish name which is abbreviated to NMP) running directly east from the Monastery and adjacent Park Staszica has a number of good restaurants and hotels.

The Jasna Góra Monastery at sunset – it sits on a hill overlooking the town of Częstochowa. The Bell Tower is 106 m high.

We arrived in the late afternoon and visited the Monastery at sunset, which was perfect. There was an outdoor service going on during our visit, which added to the atmosphere of the setting.

Toruń – Poland’s Best Preserved Medieval City

About 106 miles (or 170 km) south of Gdansk is the medieval city of Toruń. It has been well preserved over the centuries and fortunately was not damaged in World War II. Toruń is the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus (1473 – 1543), the great mathematician and astronomer who placed the sun (rather than the earth) at the center of our solar system. His home is here along with his statue in the main square.

Nicolaus Copernicus’ house in the center of Toruń.

Statue of Copernicus and the Town Hall tower, which you can climb for great views.

There is a lot to see in Toruń, including some lovely medieval churches, the town square, the city walls and other historic buildings. The Town Hall is now a Regional Museum that includes other sites around Toruń. Be sure to climb the tower of the Town Hall to get a great view of the old town and surrounding countryside.

A view of Toruń, looking northeast along the Vistula river, from the Town Hall Tower.

A view from the Toruń Town Hall Tower – The huge, late 13th century St. Mary’s Church is on the right.

The interior of St. Mary’s Church. There are some well-preserved frescoes on some of the walls.

The ruins of the Teutonic Castle (from the early 1200’s) are limited; it was destroyed by the townsfolk in 1454 as part of a rebellion of the Teutonic rule—they did a good job!

The ruins of the Teutonic Knights’ castle in Toruń.

Some scary displays in the dungeon of the Knights’ castle in Toruń.

However, there is a good display in the cellar/dungeon of the castle and a number of signs around the castle grounds explaining its history and features. The Latrine Tower and connecting bridge are well preserved.

The Latrine Tower of the Teutonic Castle in Toruń.

We found that parking a car is nearly impossible in the old town, so we found a great car park right outside the city walls near a bridge over the Vistula River that was within walking distance of our apartment.

Toruń’s city walls and the 15th century Burghers Hall, which was the home of the Brotherhood of St. George, whose membership comprised the elite of Toruń.

We had a lovely stay in the old town at a place called Apartamenty Anielskie. Toruń is definitely worth an overnight stop. Take a walk along the east (river) side of the town to get some great views of the old city walls and gates.

The Leaning Tower, an interesting part of the city walls of Toruń. It started to lean because of the soft ground – about 5 degrees so far, but still standing!

Kwidzyn and Gniew – Other Great Teutonic Castles in Northern Poland

The German Teutonic Knights built numerous castles in Norther Poland in the 13th and 14th centuries. Here are two others in addition to Malbork worth visiting. (For a map of sites we visited in Poland, click here).

Kwidzyn Castle

Kwidzyn Castle doesn’t receive near the number of visitors that Malbork Castle does, and yet it’s one of the more interesting castles I’ve visited from an architectural standpoint. It has two towers extending from the main structure by long arcaded bridges, one of which is a latrine tower and the other is over a well.

Kwidzyn Castle with the Latrine Tower in the foreground. A long way down from your toilet seat!

The elevated hall leading to the Latrine Tower, with many displays of old farm tools and home furnishings.

Kwidzyn Castle with the Well Tower extending from the main structure.

If you like medieval churches too, Kwidzyn is a great stop because it has a cathedral and castle connected right together!

The Kwidzyn Cathedral, conveniently connected directly to the castle.

Interior of the 14th century Kwidzyn Cathedral. There are many well preserved frescoes (note opposite wall).

The castle and the adjoining cathedral were built in the early 14^th century and somehow they survived World War II without a scratch; however the castle did suffer under the Prussians in the 18^th century, who pulled down a couple of sections. But thankfully most of it remains intact. The main castle is a museum, containing a variety of natural history displays, medieval art and farming implements in the hallways and towers and some torture devices in the dungeon.

The dungeon of Kwidzyn Catstle.

One torture device in the dungeon of Kwidzyn Castle. You would have to sit in one position and couldn’t move. Also note shackles on wall to the right.

Gniew Castle

We also made a quick stop at one other castle near Kwidzyn that is now a business convention center. Gniew Castle was started in the late 13^th century.

Exterior of Gniew Castle.

It was a famous location, known for hosting lavish banquets and many guests. In the early 1600’s Gniew Castle was the site of a year-long siege by the Swedish who carried off many of the castle’s treasures.

Interior courtyard of Gniew Castle, it could accomodate 500 guests for banquets.

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