Spain

Fortaleza de la Mota – A Fun Stop Between Granada and Córdoba

Fortaleza de La Mota sits on a hilltop dominating the little town of Alcalá la Real, Spain. This interesting fortress-citadel is less than 60 km (37 miles) northwest of Granada, right on the way to Córdoba. It was one of those fun, unplanned discoveries. The night before we left Granada, I was just browsing the internet to see what interesting sights we might find on our way to Córdoba, and came across this gem! Its origins date back to the 8th century although what remains is largely 13th – 14th centuries and later. Originally a Moorish stronghold, it was the last defensive bastion standing in the way of the reconquest of Granada by the Christians in the 15th century.

Since the day of my visit was so cloudy and rainy, I couldn’t get a good photo of the citadel from the lower town, but these images show what it looks like from a bird’s eye view. The image on the right explains the major defensive fortifications.

Unfortunately the weather on the day of my visit was super windy, rainy and cold. So, I grabbed my umbrella and rain jacket and checked out the fortress on my own while my family stayed warm in the car. I am so glad I made the effort! The entrance to the citadel is not hard to find, just drive uphill by car from the modern town center. There is a little parking area, restrooms and visitors booth where you purchase your ticket before taking steep path up to the fortress.

*The pathway into Fortaleza de la Mota. There are signs (in English) describing various sights within the Fortress. On the right the sign explains there was a bakery right there.*

*A display in the church showing what Fortelaza de la Mota may have looked like in its earlier days.*

Once you reach the citadel, there are several things to check out:

Tower of Homage

I welcomed a visit to this tower, which gave me a few minutes respite from the cold wind and rain.

*The Tower of Homage has several exhibits and provides great views of the citadel and on a clear day, the surrounding countryside.*

Mayor Abbey Church

While no longer a functioning church, this structure is quite interesting with several displays and large screens in the nave, where the history of the citadel is explained in a short film.

*Views of the exhibits in the church and the nave where the film is shown. As can be seen, numerous graves were excavated beneath the floor.*

Citadel Ruins

On the plateau outside the tower and church are numerous ruins of the once prosperous citadel. Sign posts help explain the layout and various activities that occurred there. Around the 18th century, the townspeople left the citadel and began to populate the area below it, which was much better suited to agricultural pursuits and population growth.

You can wander among the foundations of the community and imagine the hustle and bustle of life hundreds of years ago – shop keepers, wine makers, and all kinds of other trades to keep the citadel running smoothly.

*Other views of the citadel homes and shops.*

*We can’t forget that the main purpose of Fortaleza de la Mota was defensive.*

*On my way back to the car park, I noticed other extensive ruins cascading down the hillside as the weather cleared a bit. However, I don’t think they are open for the tourist.*

For a little history on Fortaleza de la Mota check out Wikipedia. If you take the drive between Granada and Córdoba, don’t miss this interesting sight! During my visit, I saw two other tourists – I pretty much had the whole site to myself – of course, the weather probably had something to do with that!

Granada, Spain Part 2 – The Alhambra

The primary reason tourists visit Granada is to see the Alhambra (in Arabic, the word means “red castle”), considered one of the top sites in Europe, let alone Spain. This magnificent fortress/palace is a symbol of the power and wealth of the Moors in Spain during a period of about 700 years, although most of what we see now is from the 13th century onwards. Granada was the last bastion of the Moors before the “Reconquista” finally drove them from Spain at the end of the 15th century. In this post, I will not attempt to provide a historical narrative, just some images of this incredible historic site. At the end of the post I share some practical tips for your visit.

The Alhambra encompasses about 26 acres including a mile of fortified walls. Its setting is spectacular, overlooking the city of Granada in one direction and the Sierra Nevada mountains providing a backdrop from the other direction.

*The entrance to the Alhambra passes through expansive gardens and other quiet ruins prior to getting to the main palace and fortress entrance.* *Nearby are the Generalife Gardens, another major sight near the Alhambra. We did not take the time to visit these gardens.*

The Alcazaba (Fortress)

The oldest part of the Alhambra is the Alcazaba, which is the ‘castle’ part of the Alhambra. It was used to house guards of the palace and their families. The first records of the Alcazaba date to the 9th century, but most of what we see today was constructed from 1238 onwards. To get to the Alcazaba, walk to the far end (from the entrance) of the complex. With your ticket, you are allowed one visit to the Alcazaba either before or after visiting the Nasrid Palaces, so plan your visit based on the weather and time of day since you will be outdoors in this portion of the Alhambra.

*The fortress provides access to towers and views of the Alhambra and Granada.*

*The Alhambra complex and specifically the Alcazaba is located on Sabika Hill, which provides a commanding view of central Gran*ada.This location was perfectly chosen due to its strategic position.

The Nasrid Palaces

The Moorish Nasrid Dynasty began in 1238 and this era marked the beginning of the construction of what we call the Nasrid Palaces, the most ornate structures in the Alhambra and some of the best preserved Moorish-era buildings anywhere. The images below are roughly in order of our visit through the palaces. Most rooms in the palaces are signposted with information and corresponding audioguide numbers if you choose to use the guide. Your ticket will likely have a specific entry time for the Nasrid Palaces, be sure to get in line at the appropriate time for entry.

*The Mexuar on the left and the Gilded Room on the right.*

*Two views of the Court of the Myrtles. On the right is a view of the Comares Tower from the Court of the Myrtles, the tallest tower of the Alhambra. Surrounding this couryard were women’s quarters.*

The Hall of the Ambassadors (center) was the throne room and where official receptions took place. The other images show views of adjoining rooms and the incredible artistic detail surrounding the visitor everywhere – hard to absorb so much exquisite work in a short visit.

Views of the Palace and Patio of the Lions, the private chambers of the royal family. This beautiful courtyard was probably my favorite part of the Nasrid Palaces. The fountain in the middle of the courtyard is supported by 12 lions.

Hall of the Abencerrajes on the left and Hall of the Two Sisters on the right – note the fascinating plasterwork of the walls and ceilings. It is believed the Abencerrajes knights were beheaded in the room named after them. These two chambers are close in proximity.

*These two ceilings were intriguing because it is very rare in Moorish buildings to find images of people. They depict the medieval times of the caliphs who ruled Granada.*

Daraxa’s Garden on the left. On the right, a fun little chamber right before you exit the Nasrid Palaces. My mother-in-law is whispering and across this chamber, and in the opposite corner you can hear her perfectly! The sound travels across the arched ceiling so clearly – be careful what you say, someone might be listening!

Charles V Palace

After visiting the Nasrid Palaces, there is a one more site to visit, the Palace of Charles V. Charles V was King of Spain and Holy Roman Emperor of Europe in the 16th century and wanted to stake his claim. Construction started on this Palace in 1527, but it was never finished. After the Nasrid Palaces this part of the Alhambra is a bit of a letdown. There really isn’t much to see here, lots of empty and closed rooms, with a few exhibits in several rooms. The whole purpose of this Palace was to convey the message “we won” by the Christian monarchs after the Reconquista. To make room for this huge palace, part of the original Nasrid Palaces had to be demolished. One kingdom conquering another – the history of our world!

*On the left – some satisfied tourists after visiting the Alhambra (my wife, brother-in-law and mother-in-law). On the right, a view of the Alhambra’s outer walls.*

A few practicalities for visiting the Alhambra: It is essential to get your tickets ahead of time, a few tickets on a daily basis might be available for “walk ups” but don’t plan on it. You can go online to reserve your tickets here. We visited in March, and the crowds were small, partly because things were just reopening from COVID and due to the time of year. There is a bus stop right outside the entrance, and it is a very convenient bus ride from central Granada. The palace and grounds are extensive, so be prepared to do a lot of walking. Allow 3 hours for a visit. Although guides and tours are available, I just followed a travel book outline (Rick Steve’s) for a basic explanation. As shown above, photos are allowed just about everywhere. Most people concentrate on the Nasrid Palaces, but be sure to allow time to visit the Alcazaba for great views of central Granada and the surrounding countryside.

Granada, Spain – Beyond the Alhambra

(Granada is best known as the home of the stunning Alhambra Fortress, but in this post we’re going to focus on some other sights in this amazing city and leave the Alhambra to the next post).

From Gibraltar, we drove northeast towards Granada along the Costa del Sol of Spain – which was quite beautiful. Since were were visiting in March, it really wasn’t beach or swim weather, but we stopped in a couple of beautiful towns to get a feel for the coast. There are lots of vacation homes, resorts and golf courses along the coast. I’d love to go back and spend more time in this area. Gibraltar to Granada is about 284 km or 176 miles via the route we took.

*It’s a scenic drive from Gibraltar to Granada. We stopped briefly in Estepona, a wealthy small town on the coast and then in Nerja, a resort town with a pretty setting on the Costa del Sol.* *We didn’t have the time to stop in Marbella or Malaga, even though those cities would be definitely worth visiting.*

Costa del Sol

*Leaving Gibraltar in the distance…until next time!*

*Views of Nerja. A few people on the beach even in March! It was a bit cool and breezy, but the sunbathers didn’t seem to mind.*

Granada

Granada is one of the main tourist destinations in southern Spain, known primarily for its 13th century Alhambra palace/fortress, one of Europe’s best known treasures. While the Alhambra is outstanding, Granada is fun place to visit for many other reasons as well (my next post will focus on the Alhambra specifically).

We arrived in Granada in mid-afternoon and found our way to our apartment, located in the historic (and hilly) Albaicín (also Albayzín) district, just across a large ravine from the Alhambra. Luckily our apartment had a designated space in a parking garage just a couple blocks away. Parking space is at a premium in this old, charming district.

*Our apartment entrance and interior courtyard in Granada – we had our own private garden space in which to relax.*

Our apartment was in a great location – within walking distance of downtown Granada (if you don’t mind lots of stairways winding down to the main city) and just a bus ride from the Alhambra. Be prepared to get your exercise walking in Granada (up and down many small hills and stairways) or learn to use the bus system. There was a bus stop just a block from our apartment.

*Views of the Albaicín district of Granada. We had fun just wandering the streets one afternoon.*

*A view of the Alhambra and the mountains beyond Granada from the Albaicín district.*

One of the things the Albaicín area of Granada is known for are the flamenco dance shows, many of which are performed in little hillside caves that are part of the restaurants and bars in this areas of town, just across the ravine from the Alhambra. The flamenco art form, in which the dancer creates their own interpretation, is indigenous to southern Spain.

*We made reservations online about 24 hours in advance for a flamenco show which was within walking distance of our apartment. The show lasts about 1 hour*, *with several dancers performing with live musicians.*

*Evening view of the Alhambra from the Albaicín district, near where we saw the flamenco show.*

Central Granada

There’s a lot to explore in Granada. We noticed a strong north African/Arabic influence in the city, both as an important part of its long history and currently – with many internatioinal students, since Granada is home to one of Spain’s largest universities. We found many Arabic restaurants, shops, and historical sights in addition to traditional Gothic European architecture.

*There are lots of Arabic shops in Granada and also ancient Moorish Baths (such as the 12th century El Bañuelo in the photos above) to explore, as well as more modern Baths that rival any modern spa.*

*Left – a typical street scene in Granada with numerous shops. Right – a statue of King Ferdinand, more about this king below.*

*Granada also has many interesting Gothic plazas, churches and streets to wander.*

Cathedral and Royal Chapel

Granada’s 16th century cathedral is located in the heart of downtown Granada. One of its key treasures (located in the Royal Chapel) are the ornate tombs of the 15th century Spanish monarchs – King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella; they requested that their remains be brought to rest in Granada, the city they considered as their crowning achievement of the Reconquista. Their roles in the Reconquista of Spain and commissioning of Columbus’ exploration of the Western Hemisphere changed the course of Western history. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside the Royal Chapel. The figures on the tombs of the King and Queen are quite interesting and definitely worth a thorough look. Their actual remains are in simpler coffins in the crypt below the tombs, you can view these as well.

*A couple views of Granada’s Cathedral – it’s difficult to get a photo of the overall structure due to its location in the heart of the city.*

We’ll cover the magnificent Alhambra in my next post, it is the primary reason why tourists come to Granada, but I recommend you take a little additional time to see more of this marvelous historical city.

Spain’s Andalucían Hill Towns of Zahara de la Sierra and Ronda

From Seville, we traveled southeast through Andalucía, known for its beautiful countryside and white hill towns. Our time was somewhat limited, so we just visited two towns, Zahara de la Sierra and Ronda. We spent the night in Ronda, which is about 133 km (83 miles) from Seville. There are at least a half-dozen quaint towns in this area and it would be easy to spend several days or even a week exploring this popular region of Spain.

Zahara de la Sierra

This little town is a spectacular sight, nestled against a rocky outcrop below a 15th century castle keep, with rolling green hills and a large reservoir nearby.

We took the steep hike up to the Castle from a small car park (opposite the side of the town). The Castle is open to visitors and from the top you get a commanding view of the town, valley and countryside (we visited in March and weather was pretty dry and warm).

*Views of the 15th century castle keep, town of Zahara de la Sierra and surrounding countryside.*

After visiting the castle, we hiked down into the town’s main square. Shops and restaurants were just setting up for the day as the sun rose over the rock outcropping and began to warm the streets and plazas.

*Views of the town of Zahara de la Sierra.*

Ronda

Ronda may be the busiest of the Andalucían hill towns, as evidenced by the number of people on the streets. It has a stunning setting also, situated dramatically on a high cliff divided into two parts by a deep gorge (El Tajo). The gorge separates the “new” town (15th century) from its older, quieter counterpart, the original old city center which dates back to Moorish times. The two parts of the city are connected by the majestic Puente Nuevo, a tall (over 300 feet) 18th century bridge that is the postcard image of Ronda.

*A busy plaza in the ‘newer’ part of Ronda.*

*Views of Ronda’s dramatic setting and the surrounding countryside.*

Ronda Old Town

I was a bit surprised how quiet the old center of Ronda was. It really felt like a completely separate town and almost deserted. Perhaps we were there on a particularly quiet day. We enjoyed wandering the streets and exploring this part of the city.

*Views of the oldest part of Ronda, with old gates and walls, quiet plazas and passageways.*

Plaza de Toros

Ronda is also renown for its 18th century Plaza de Toros, one of the first constructed entirely of stone and the largest bull ring in Spain. It is considered a highly prestigious place to fight – all bullfighters aspire to showcase their skills here.

We stayed in an apartment just a few blocks from the Plaza de Toros and within walking distance of the Puente Nuevo. It had a secure parking space and was very convenient. From Ronda, it was on to Gibraltar! Be on the lookout for our next post.

Exploring Seville, Spain – Part 3

Beyond the old quarter of Seville, there is a lot to explore in this great city. A major event occurred in Seville in 1929 which altered the city’s legacy and architecture and still adds interest and beauty nearly 100 years later. The event was the Ibero-American Exposition, a year-long world’s fair focusing on the ties between the Iberian peninsula and the Americas which left many landmarks in Seville. In addition, there are other interesting sections of the city that are a bit off the tourist path.

Plaza de España

One of the most beautiful parts of Seville, this Plaza is just a short distance south of the Gothic Cathedral and is part of the massive Maria Luisa Park. Built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 to showcase Spain’s industrial and technology exhibits, the half-circle plaza, adjacent building, ponds, fountains and tile works extending around the entire plaza are quite stunning.

*The beautiful tile work extends around the perimeter railings of the Plaza.*

*All along the Plaza are alcoves representing the regions of Spain with their unique characteristics and historical events expressed in colorful tile.*

*Another example of one of the alcoves at the Plaza de España.*

*Many of the countries participating in the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 built fabulous pavilions along the Guadalquivir River, some of which serve as embassies today.*

Other Views of Seville

We took a “hop on, hop off” bus tour of Seville one afternoon and we were glad we did, this allowed us to get a glimpse of the city beyond the main tourist areas we’ve shared in previous posts. The tour had several different routes and a nighttime tour (at no additional cost) available as well.

The 17th century San Telmo Palace, formerly a university for navigators (*Universidad de Mareantes), it also served as a royal residence* and is now home to the regional government. It is adjacent to the Maria Luisa Park (which were considered the gardens of the palace).

After a great time in Seville, we next headed further south into the hill towns of Andalucia. Posts on our visit to this area will be coming shortly.

Exploring Seville, Spain – Part 2

In my first post on Seville, we explored its amazing Gothic cathedral, located in the heart of the old quarter of Seville. In this post we’ll explore some other nearby sights.

Real Alcázar

The Real Alcázar is right across the plaza from the Cathedral, making it convenient to visit at the same time. The Alcázar was (and still is) the home of the rulers of Seville and Spain. It dates back to Moorish times (11th and 12th centuries) and then continued to be a home for subsequent Christian monarchs including Ferdinand and Isabella, King and Queen during the time of Columbus. Later, 16th century kings remodeled and added rooms. The royal family of Spain still uses some of the upper floor rooms today.

Since Seville was a gateway to the New World in the 15th and 16th centuries (being just 50 miles from the Atlantic via the Guadalquivir River), the palace holds a major place in history as the site where plans were drawn up to explore the western hemisphere. The Alcázar has a long and complicated history, with many changes over the centuries.

*The Patio de las Doncellas (Patio of the Maidens) with plasterwork by master craftsmen from Granada.*

*Ambassador’s Hall. It is believed that in this room Columbus was given his commission to explore the New World.*

Admiral’s Hall, 16th century. Although this room may look plain, the course of world history changed here. Amerigo Vespucci and Magellan planned the first around-the-world travel here and the first map of the world was also drawn here.

The *Alcázar*‘s beautiful gardens are the last stop on your visit.

Santa Cruz

This is a neighborhood directly east of the Seville cathedral and was once a Jewish ghetto. It is worth walking through this area – restaurants, picturesque alleys, and beautiful architecture are the rewards for doing so.

*A little plaza (with orange trees!) in the Santa Cruz neighborhood.*

*The Hospital de los Venerables – a 17th century home for elderly priests, is located in Santa Cruz.*

Torre del Oro

The “Tower of Gold” was one of two towers that stood beside the river to protect Seville from invaders. The 2nd tower across the river no longer stands. A chain could be raised across the river from the towers to stop ships from entering the harbor of Seville. The Torre del Oro is now the launch point for river cruises and “hop on – hop off” bus tours. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk along the Guadalquivir River from the Cathedral to the Torre del Oro.

*This scene of rowers in the Guadalquivir River reminded me of the Charles River in Cambridge (Boston) where you can see serious rowers almost any time of year.*

Exploring Seville, Spain – Part 1 (Seville Cathedral)

From Mérida, we drove south to Seville. Seville is one of the great cities of Spain and for that matter, one of the great cities of Europe. Seville sits primarily on the eastern bank of the Guadalquivir River which is drains into the Atlantic, just 80 km (50 miles) to the south. It has been a port city for centuries. It is a large city, with about 1.5 million people living in the greater metropolitan area. In spite of its size, the main tourist sites can be visited comfortably over a couple days. We will divide our tour of Seville into three posts. This first one will cover the marvelous cathedral.

*Map of our car tour route. Seville is 193 km (120 miles) south of Merida.*

*Another beautiful evening in Seville along the Guadalquivir River, with the cathedral tower (La Giralda) in the distance (on the left) and the Torre del Oro on the bank of the river (upper right).* *Our apartment was on the west bank of the river (to the right of this photo), just about a 10 minute walk from the river and the old quarter of Seville.*

Seville Cathedral

The Seville Cathedral is one of the great Gothic cathedrals in Europe, and in fact the largest in Europe. It was built on the site of a great mosque, of which the tower (La Giralda) and a courtyard (Patio de los Naranjos) are remnants. This is the where the tomb of Columbus is located. It is difficult to get a great exterior photo of this cathedral due to its size and somewhat cramped location in the old Jewish quarter (Santa Cruz) of Seville.

*La Giralda (Bell Tower) dates back to 1198 and was part of the original mosque located here.*

*View of the transept ceiling of the cathedral (left) and a close-up view of the Retablo Mayor at the high altar (1482-1564).*

*View of the organ pipes and choir in the Seville Cathedral.*

*Tomb of Columbus in the Seville Cathedral – his coffin is held by representatives of the kingdoms of Castile, León, Aragón and Navarra.*

*A view of the La Giralda and the northwestern entrance of the Seville Cathedral, from the shady and cool Patio de los Naranjos.*

Cathedral Rooftop Tour & La Giralda Tower

We took a tour of the Seville Cathedral rooftop (“Cubiertas”). We planned this tour in advance since tickets and tour times are limited and crowds can make for long lines. The tour was offered only in Spanish, but our tour guide was kind enough to give us a short summary in English after each stop. It was fun getting a more intimate experience with the cathedral than offered by just visiting the main hall. The rooftop tour was 20 Euro/person and the Cathedral & Tower entrance fees were 11 Euro/person as of March 2022. If I had to choose, I would just do the Cathedral & Tower, since the views are a bit better from the tower than the rooftop. The best European cathedral rooftops I have visited are Milan (Italy) and Chartres (France).

Markings like these were used to help stone cutters shape blocks consistently and at the right angles for construction.

Unique views of the cathedral and its construction are provided on the rooftop tour.

*The rooftop tour also included a short interior walk high above the main floor, for a view of the cathedral few people see.*

La Giralda Tower

We also climbed La Giralda tower, dating from the 12th century. Rather than steps, there is a sloping ramp all the way to the top of the tower, making the ascent a bit easier.

*On the left, looking south from the tower, the *Alcázar* can be seen in the middle left of the photo. The photo on the right shows a view of Seville looking northeast from the tower.*

In my next post, we’ll explore the beautiful Real Alcázar, a 14th century Moorish palace-fortress located right next to the cathedral.

Mérida – Home to Some of the Finest Roman Ruins in Spain

Mérida is a bit of a well-kept secret from tourists and yet it has some amazing Roman and Moorish ruins. The town was founded by Augustus in 25 BC and was known as Augustus Emerita. Today, it’s a relatively small city (population of about 60,000) that feels smaller since much of the main town is walkable and most of the main sights are within the central part of the city. We were fortunate to find a lovely apartment just a block or so away from the main Roman ruins (we visited in March, and had most of the sights to ourselves). Check out this post for a map of Spain reference.

*The Roman Theater in Mérida, still in use for classical drama.*

*Detail of the Corinthian columns in the Roman Theater.*

*The Roman Amphitheater in Mérida, which sits next to the Theater.*

Casa del Anfiteatro

Also next to the Roman Theater and Amphitheater is the Casa del Anfiteatro, which provides a glimpse into life of the Roman nobility. Baths, highly sophisticated plumbing systems, beautiful mosaics, and burial chambers are all on display at this excavated site.

*The Temple of Diana (1st Century AD) was in the center of the Roman town of Augustus Emerita*, *about a ten-minute walk from the Theater and Amphitheater.*

Other Roman Ruins Around Town

There are other Roman Ruins all over town just waiting to be explored.

Alcazaba

One of the most fascinating sights in Mérida is the Alcazaba, one of Spain’s oldest Moorish buildings (AD 835), built over Roman ruins and right next to the Roman bridge (above). There are interpretive signs to help explain what life was like in the fortress.

*This tunnel leads down to a still-functioning cistern in the Alcazaba.*

*Cistern in the Alcazaba – this cistern was part of a sophisticated plumbing system that brought water into the Alcazaba from the nearby river.*

Los Milagros Aqueduct

Just outside central Mérida is Los Milagros Aqueduct, another reminder of Roman engineering skills and influence in this part of Spain. It dates from the 1st century AD and is part of a large park on the outskirts of Mérida.

*This huge aqueduct is about a 20 minute walk from the Alcazaba.*

Practical Matters

You can purchase a “Roman Ruins Circuit Ticket” for 16 Euro per person (as of March 2022) at the Theater which will get you into all the main sights. Well worth it. Our apartment, shown below, was fantastic – a very nice and accommodating owner, 3 bedrooms, 3 baths, well-equipped kitchen and right in the heart of town. However, as the owner says in his instructions, don’t follow Apple or Google Maps for the address – they took us to a dead-end street right below the apartment and we had to go up a different street to get to the apartment (we read his instructions afterwards!).

*Our apartment was in a perfect location (3 floors with a garage (where the “AT” sign is) – “Casa Museo”) – right next to the Museum of Roman Art and the Roman Theater* *(all located to the right in this photo).*

Cáceres, Spain – An Untouched Renaissance Town

From Trujillo we continued on our journey driving west a short distance to Cáceres (46 km or 28 miles) and then south to Mérida (62 km or 38 miles from Cáceres), for an overnight stay. In this post I will share a few images of Cáceres and in my next post we’ll cover Mérida, a treasure trove of Roman-era ruins.

*Location of Cáceres and Mérida, southwest of Madrid.*

Cáceres is a pretty large modern city (population of about 100,000) that has a well-preserved old Renaissance-era center (Ciudad Monumental), located just west of the Plaza Mayor. We found a parking garage about 10 minutes walking distance from the old town. It seemed that we were the only tourists visiting this interesting and quiet historical locale.

*A view of the modern town of Cáceres from the tower of the Iglesia de Santa Maria*

*A view of the old town of Cáceres also taken from the tower of the Iglesia de Santa Maria*.

Most of the old town’s structures date from the 15th and 16th centuries, and they, along with remnants of Moorish walls dating from the 12th century, are the heart of this Renaissance enclave that seems stuck in time.

*The Iglesia de San Mateo, built between the 14th and 17th centuries, one of Cáceres’ oldest churches.*

*A view of the main nave in the Iglesia de Santa Maria. This Church also has an interesting Treasury that can be visited.*

*The amazing 16th century Retablo Mayor, a cedar wood altar depicting Biblical scenes in the Iglesia de Santa Maria.*

A Few Other Sights Around Cáceres Old Town

Cáceres experienced an economic boom after Columbus’ discovery of the New World and lucky for us, the old town has held up well over the centuries. While there are not many major tourist sights (a few palaces, towers and churches), our main objective was to just wander the quaint streets a bit and enjoy the ambience.

The modern city of Cáceres has a growing reputation in the worlds of art and modern cuisine, making it worth a stop for many reasons.

Southern Spain – Guadalupe and Trujillo

The first two stops on our self-guided tour of southern Spain were Guadalupe, home of an important monastery and Trujillo, known as the home of Francisco Pizarro, conquistador of the Inca empire of Peru. Our interest in visiting Trujillo was not really about conquistadors, but more the well-preserved old town and castle.

Guadalupe

This little town is not really on the tourist map, but its glorious Monasterio de Guadalupe should be. The monastery was founded in 1340 and is right in the center of town (the town grew up around the monastery over the centuries). It was the most important monastery in Spain for four centuries. The monastery was a great center of learning, having one of the largest libraries in Spain, and home to schools of grammar and medicine. It was the site of the baptisms of some of the first native Caribbean people brought to Europe by Columbus. It has an amazing embroidery museum (I cannot fathom the hours spent in making these vestments), and an ancient texts museum, among other treasures. The only way to visit the monastery is with a guided tour (in Spanish only). It looks like a giant castle from the exterior and photos are difficult–from the outside due to its cramped location in town and the fact that photography is forbidden in much of the interior.

*There are over 90 large illustrated music and other books from the 15th and 16th centuries in one of the museum rooms in the monastery.*

*The beautiful Baroque style 17th century Sacristy in the Guadalupe Monastery. I had to take this photo quickly.*

*The cloisters at the Guadalupe Monastery.*

Trujillo

Trujillo is just 78 km (48 miles) west of Guadalupe, and we spent a night here in an old converted convent.

*The courtyard of our 16th century Dominican Convent hotel, just below the center of the old town (Convento de Franciscanas Descalzas de San Antonio).*

While the occasional tour bus makes its way into the main square, this is a pretty quiet town also. Trujillo has many historical structures, and as you wander the narrow little streets, signs on the buildings will give you some historical information.

*Plaza Mayor de Trujillo, with a statue of Francisco Pizzaro in the center. The church is the 16th century Parish Church of San Martin de Tours.*

*Another view of the Plaza Mayor in Trujillo – historical municipal buildings and palaces line the Plaza.*

We were able to wander into a few churches and climb their towers for great views and also visit the ramparts of the castle, which stands as a reminder of the battles for this land between the Moors and Christians during the 1200’s.

*13th century castle walls built on the remains of an earlier Islamic fortress stand at the top of the hill overlooking Trujillo.*

*My wife and mother-in-law on the castle walls (foreground).*

*One of my favorite images from our trip.*

*Overlooking the old town of Trujillo and countryside from the castle.*

*A view of the castle from a church tower (I love to climb towers in Europe!).*

There are also several 16th century palaces in Trujillo built with the wealth obtained from the conquering of the Americas. Many of the historical sites are open and charge a small entrance fee.

If you have the time, add a visit to Guadalupe and Trujillo to your Spain tourist experience! I love quiet, interesting, and almost undiscovered destinations like these.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers