Spain Travel

Mallorca’s Southeast Coast – Home to Some of Its (and the World’s) Most Beautiful Beaches

After enjoying the Palma area and exploring the north/west coast of Mallorca, we moved on to our 2nd stop, Cala d’Or, a great location to explore the leeward side of Mallorca. The southeast coast is dotted with beautiful coves and beaches (I think there are over 100), many of which require a bit of a hike to get to, while others are easily accessible by car.

Alua Soul Hotel – Cala d’Or

We stayed at the Alua Soul Hotel in Cala d’Or, and we were not disappointed. The hotel property surrounds a small cove (Cala Egos, to which the public also has access) and is in a perfect location for exploring this beautiful part of Mallorca.

*Cala Egos – this is the view from our room at the Alua Soul Hotel – I think I could have stayed here forever!*

*Cala d’Or has lots of shops and restaurants, this particular shopping/restaurant area was very close to our hotel.*

Cala d’Or is a major boat harbor and tourist hub (although it did not feel all that crowded – the hotels and condos are spread out and tucked behind the various hills and coves). If you get tired of the beach, there are lots of other things to do here, such as renting ATV’s, going on fishing or sailing expeditions and many other activities to keep you and your family or friends entertained!

Mondragó Park

Near Cala d’Or is Mondrago Park (Parc natural de Mondragó). This nature park has lots of parking (fee required), wide beaches, snack vendors and restrooms. The beaches and shallow water are great for families. There are two beach areas connected by a trail (just a 5 minute walk between the two beaches). Speaking of families, let me point out that these are “European” beaches, which means you will likely encounter some topless sunbathers, as with most beaches in Mallorca (or any Mediterranean island for that matter). However, the protocol is that everyone covers up at the snack bars, going to/from the restroom, beach, etc.

*If you’re after a little more solitude, this little cove is also in *Mondragó Park*.*

Cala des Moro

This is perhaps the most famous (and beautiful?) beach and cove on Mallorca. Arrive early (like by 8 or 9 am) to enjoy a quieter beach experience and to find parking. You walk south from the parking area off the main road through a small residential neighborhood and just keep working your way to the coastline. It’s about a 20 minute walk/hike from the parking area to the beach – be prepared for a steep descent/ascent into/out of the cove. Just follow the crowd. At the top of the cove, there was an enterprising drink/snack vendor. I will say this is one of the most scenic beaches I’ve ever seen. The water is warm and the color is about the prettiest turquoise shade possible.

Other Beautiful Beaches

Further up the coast from Cala d’Or, the coves & beaches just keep on coming….here are two other examples that are near Porto Cristo, 28 km (17 miles) north of Cala d’Or and easily accessible by car (parking is next to the beach in both cases). Porto Cristo is the home of Cuevas del Drach (Drach Caves) which I will share more about in my next post!

Cala Anguila

Cala Mendia

No matter where you choose to stay while in Mallorca, be sure to visit the south/east coast of this beautiful island.

Beyond Palma – Touring North/Western Mallorca – Part 2

North/Western Mallorca (island of Spain) has some really lovely and historic towns as well as amazing scenery. In continuing our visit to this part of the island, here are a few other gems in addition to those listed in my Part 1 post. For an overview of our Mallorca (and Menorca) visit my post here.

Valldemossa

Valldemossa is the quintessential European mountain village. In visiting this town, you wouldn’t know that you are just a few kilometers away from some of the most beautiful and touristy beaches in the world. As we drove into town I stopped to take a photo of the village, and I could hear bells tinkling as sheep quietly grazed in the hillsides, oblivious to their surroundings.

In addition to its scenic location, Valldemossa is famous for one of its most illustrious short-term residents, Frédéric Chopin, one of the preeminent composers and pianists of the 19th century, who was from Poland. He and his girlfriend (known by her pen name of George Sand) lived in Valldemossa during the winter of 1838 – 1839. George (her real name: Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin de Francueil) was a French novelist and quite a respected and well-known author in her lifetime.

*A bust of Chopin, a portrait of George Sand and their living quarters museum at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa.*

They came to Mallorca with hopes to improve Chopin’s health, but the accommodations and cold winter weather did not help. The palace-monastery (Royal Charterhouse of Valldemossa) where they lived is the main sight in this little village. A tour of the Charterhouse includes dormitory rooms dedicated to Chopin’s stay and his works as well as George Sand’s.

A display of works by George Sand, compositions by Chopin, and the famous French Pleyel piano, which Chopin used to compose his Preludes during the latter part of his visit to Mallorca. There is some controversy about whether this is the actual piano, which has a story all of its own.

Royal Charterhouse of Valldemossa

This 13th century Palace was donated to the Carthusian Order of the Catholic Church in 1399. The Carthusian monks inhabited the Monastery until 1835 when the facilities were sold into a private estate and the small dormitory rooms then became available for rent. Chopin and Sand were not married, and after this was discovered they sought seclusion from the disapproving public in Palma and rented a room at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa, a very remote village at the time.

*Exterior views of the Charterhouse (former royal palace and monastery).*

In addition to the cells and displays dedicated to Chopin and Sand, you also have an opportunity to tour some of the features of the monastery and elegant rooms of the palace.

*The monastery’s pharmacy and monk’s cell displays.*

*Rooms in the Palace portion of the Charterhouse.*

And at certain times of the day, a short (15 minute) beautiful recital is given of Chopin’s music. We were fortunate that the recital timing coincided with our visit perfectly. You can then tour the gardens of the Charterhouse.

Recital of Chopin’s music at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa, Mallorca.

This was a really interesting stop, we enjoyed our visit.

Sóller & Porto Sóller

Just 24 km (15 miles) north of Valldemossa is the pretty town of Sóller. Like Andraxt, there are two parts to Sóller. The inland town and port are both attractive and popular tourist spots, especially for hikers and cyclists and for those seeking some beach time. Sóller became wealthy in the 19th century due to its citrus groves and fruit exports to France. Today beautiful small hotels and apartments surround the peaceful harbor and beach.

*Left, a tram transports you 3 km from the inland town to the port. Views of scenic Porto Sóller with its pleasant sandy and shaded beach.*

The inland town is also quite picturesque and worth a stroll. I bought some great Mallorcan shoes from a local cobbler – they have a unique style!

Views of Sóller. If the buildings in the center and right images look a bit like Gaudi’s work, it’s because his disciple, Joan Rubió Bellver, designed the facades during a facelift in the mid 1900’s. The church (right, Sant Bartomeu de Sóller) was originally built in the 12th century.

*My Mallorcan shoes! I wear a size 11.5 – 12 and it was a little hard to find that big of a shoe (44 in European sizes).*

Fornalutx

One little town we passed through quickly (we visited it on our last day in Mallorca as we were headed to the airport) was Fornalutx, which is only 4 km from Sóller. It is another little scenic town and worth a stroll of its main street. It might be a great place to stay on the north/west coast of the island and perhaps less expensive and quieter than Sóller or Deià.

*Views of Fornalutx – with jugglers on stilts!*

Top Sights in Palma de Mallorca, Spain

Our first stop in Mallorca was Palma de Mallorca, the main city, port, cruise ship and tourist hub on the island. Palma has a lovely old quarter with a classic Gothic cathedral, old city walls, a wonderful bike path running along the harbor for about 9 miles and sandy beaches within a short distance. Visiting the Palma area alone could be great one-stop vacation since it has so much to offer.

*View of cruise ships in Palma de Mallorca’s harbor.*

We used Palma as our base for exploring not only the town, but also the western part of the island, which worked out great. We didn’t spend time on the beaches right near Palma simply because much of the rest of our visit around the island was going to be focused on exploring and relaxing on a variety of Mallorca’s many beaches.

Listed below are a few key sights in Palma.

Palma’s Old Quarter and Cathedral

While Palma is a big city, like most European cities the old town is compact and very easy to access. The “Catedral-Basílica de Santa María de Mallorca” is the postcard image of Palma, with a stunning setting on Palma’s beautiful harbor.

*Palma’s 13th century Gothic Cathedral is an iconic landmark, visible from many locations around the city and bay.*

*Views from the rooftop of Palma’s Cathedral – definitely worth a visit.*

*Interior views of Palma’s Cathedral. the chandelier over the altar in the center image is the work of Gaudi from the late 1800’s.*

The Royal Palace of La Almudaina, which dates back to the 14th century, is the official residence of the King and Queen during their stays in Mallorca. The palace is next to the Cathedral and may be visited.

*There are massive walls on the seafront of Palma’s old town.* *The Cathedral is in the distance.*

*Views of Palma’s old town, which boasts some beautiful architecture.*

Bellver Castle

This is an interesting 14th century castle located on the western edge of central Palma, with its unique circular construction it is the only existing castle in Spain with this shape. The castle has served as a royal palace and a prison. There are few castles in Mallorca and Bellver Castle is by far the grandest.

*You get a fantastic view of central Palma from the rooftop of Bellver Castle.*

*Other exterior views of Bellver Castle.*

*The castle’s interior has some historical displays and the large courtyard is used for various performances.*

Arab Baths (Banys Arab)

Not far from the Cathedral are the 10th century Arab Baths, believed to be part of wealthy person’s home in the original Moorish city that was the foundation of Palma. Although small, they are definitely worth a visit. It’s interesting (and fortunate) that these baths have survived so long in central Palma, as they are above ground and right in the heart of the old town. To get here, we just walked there by following the signs on the sides of the buildings on the narrow streets east of the Cathedral. We made a couple wrong turns, but found the Baths without much difficulty.

*The exterior of the Arab Baths, believed to be part of a noble person’s residence 1,000 years ago.*

*Interior of the Baths. The columns are believed to have been “recycled” from Roman-era buildings. These baths used the same engineering principles as Roman-era baths.*

*One of my favorite images of the Baths.*

The small Bishop’s Museum (Museu Diocesà) is in the 13th century Bishop’s Palace behind the Cathedral and also near the Arab Baths. It is worth a visit. The Cathedral ticket covers the entrance fee for this museum as well. The image shown is an amazing wooden mural containing scenes from Christ’s life.

*One can never pass up the amazing gelato available in Palma and many other places on Mallorca!*

Melia Palma Bay Hotel

We stayed at the Meliá Palma Bay hotel, just a few minutes from the old town and across the street from the beach and biking path.

Here are a couple photos taken from the rooftop pool and lounge area. The hotel also has a bicycle rental shop, which I highly recommend. It was fun biking along the path right next to the beach.

The Melia Palma Hotel has a great setting, right next to the beach, with views of the city, bay and cruise ship port. The pool was an enjoyable, relaxing experience at the end of a good day of touring this beautiful island.

In our next post, we’ll explore the north/west coast of Mallorca.

Mallorca (Majorca) and Menorca (Minorca) – Spain’s Well-Kept Secret Islands (at least from Americans)

My wife and I love exploring the Mediterranean’s host of magical islands for so many reasons, but as of 2022, we had not yet visited Spain’s share of these islands and so we decided to take a September trip to Mallorca and Menorca (with few days in Barcelona on our way home). September was a perfect time to go – the water was still warm and the days long enough to allow plenty of exploring, with fewer tourists than might be found in July or August. United Airlines started offering seasonal direct service to Palma, Mallorca from Newark, NJ in the summer of 2022. I think that was a fabulous decision, even though locals may not agree!

In this post, I’ll provide a short overview of these two islands and in future posts go into more detail on each.

Why Mallorca and Menorca?

As mentioned above, we love the Mediterranean – the beautiful coastlines, ancient and medieval-era historical sites, incredible beaches and the variety of cultures and languages to be found throughout the region. We also love that these (Mallorca and Menorca) islands don’t really seem to be on US tourists’ European vacation maps yet, at least not to the same degree as a London, Paris or Rome.

*One of the many beautiful coves on the island of Mallorca. Like many of these coves, it takes a little hiking to get here.*

However, please don’t think that the islands are void of tourists – that’s hardly the case. Car parks for the most accessible beautiful beaches and coves fill up fast – you have to get there early (or arrive late in the day) if you want a convenient parking spot. It seems that most of the tourists to these islands come from Germany and the UK, although cruise ships also visit Palma. Cycling on the narrow winding roads through the mountains of Mallorca is a favorite pastime in addition to hiking, 4 wheeling, and of course all kinds of water sports.

*When driving in Mallorca, one needs to be careful of the cyclists sharing the road.*

Even with all the tourists, it’s still possible to visit little towns on both islands and pretty much be the only tourists in sight.

*The scenic town of Arta in the northeast corner of Mallorca – few tourists here.*

Mallorca and Menorca are quite different from one another. Mallorca is larger, more mountainous, with a significantly larger population (about half of which live in the Palma area) and caters to more tourists, who tend to stay put in specific regions of the island. Menorca is smaller in size and population with fewer tourists, and feels more rural. Both islands offer stunningly clear turquoise water, incredible coves and beaches – some of the prettiest anywhere on the planet – and interesting historical sites and towns.

*Torre d’ en Galmes, one of Menorca’s many prehistoric ruins.*

Where are Mallorca and Menorca?

Mallorca and Menorca are two of the three primary Balearic islands, belonging to Spain, the other being Ibiza. Ibiza has a reputation as a real “party” island and we preferred a bit different experience. Plus, as stated above, we could fly directly to Palma from the US. Mallorca and Menorca are close together geographically and it’s easy to get from one island to the other (just a 30 minute flight), or by taking a longer ferry ride.

Mallorca and Menorca are in the western Mediterranean Sea. It is a short flight from Barcelona to Mallorca or Menorca – about an hour (approximately 158 miles or 255 km). We flew to Barcelona from Menorca for a few days at the end of our stay and then directly from Barcelona to Washington, D.C.

Be on the lookout for many more posts to come about these beautiful islands!

Segóbriga Archaeolgical Park – Another Great Day Trip from Madrid, Spain

On our way back to Madrid via an overnight stop in Cuenca, we visited Segóbriga, an archaeological park with Roman-era ruins. The earliest evidence of civilization here dates to the 5th century BCE. Segóbriga came under Roman rule in the 2nd century BCE.

*Segóbriga is about 79 km (49 miles) west of Cuenca and 112 km (70 miles) southeast of Madrid.*

Segóbriga was an important Roman city, it produced agricultural products, livestock and through mining, ingredients used in the making of translucent plaster. Life was hard here, with 20% of the population dying before the age of 10, and 70% dying by the age of 40. The greater part of the population were freedmen and slaves, many having come to Segóbriga from other conquered regions of the Roman empire, especially Greece. Texts found in Narbonne, France refer to trading partners in Segóbriga, showing its economic influence throughout the broader region.

Most of what remains today are structures from the 1st Century AD, during the time of Augustus. Specific features include a large amphitheater that could hold 5,500; a theater, baths, and a forum in addition to the remnants of some homes. A few images of the sights are shown below.

On the trail leading to the ruins is this 2nd century tombstone monument to Lucunda, a young female slave who died at the age of 16. The relief image is of her playing a zither. She must have been pretty important to someone to warrant such a fine tombstone.

*View of the large amphitheater and a corridor leading to the seating areas.* *Unfortunately much of the original building’s stone was used in the 16th and 17th centuries as construction material for a monastery.*

*View of the theater and nearby forum – the center of cultural life in the city.*

*Views of the baths. The image on the right shows part of the water drainage system.*

Other views of stones with Latin inscriptions, foundations of small houses or shops, and a well-preserved mosaic floor (all original except for the very center of the mosaic) in one of the grand villas.

*At the entrance to the archaeological site is a small and interesting museum with good information on the history of Segóbriga.*

In addition to the above, there are remnants of a necropolis, a circus, and other elements of urbanization (other roads, drainage systems, etc.) scattered around this large site.

If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by! Due to its somewhat isolated setting, Segóbriga does not receive a lot of visitors, even though it’s not too far from Madrid.

Cuenca, Spain – Home of the Hanging Houses (Casa Colgadas)

From Belmonte and Alarcón, we traveled to Cuenca, our last overnight stop in Spain before heading back to Madrid for our trip home.

*Cuenca is 138 km or 86 miles southeast of Madrid. By train, it is less than one hour, making it a great day trip if you have the time.* (*This map shows our general car travel route in Southern Spain).*

The old town of Cuenca has a spectacular setting, sitting on a steep ridge surrounded by deep gorges carved by the Júcar and Huécar rivers on either side – a very strategic site for a military stronghold, and that is how Cuenca began back in 714 AD. Cuenca has had its economic ups and downs over the centuries and lucky for us, it’s been well-preserved and is recognized as a World Heritage site. The main tourist site is the old town itself. It is a steep climb up into the old town from the newer part of the town below, especially if walking. Cuenca is definitely worth a stop as part of your tour of Spain.

*We stayed in the 18th century Hospederia Seminario Conciliar de San Julián, in the heart of Cuenca’s old town, a great location and hotel for tourists.*

Views of the Old Town, Cuenca. The lower image shows the exterior of the 12th century Gothic Cathedral (the façade had to be rebuilt in the 1900s’ after collapse from a lightening strike, it never was finished). *The Cathedral is one of the earliest Gothic structures in Spain.*

Left: interior view of Cuenca Cathedral – life sized images of the Last Supper – Christ and the Apostles. Right: View of Cuenca’s old town (Cathedral in right of image), with the newer part of Cuenca in distance.

*Views of Cuenca from the gorges – there are a few bridges crossing the Huécar River – you get a great view of the town sitting on top of the cliffs from the San Pablo Bridge (in the background).*

Casa Colgadas

The houses as shown in these images are “hanging” on the edge of the cliff and known as the “Casa Colgadas” of Cuenca, they are a famous tourist sight, although there’s really not that much to see. They were built in the 14th – 16th centuries and are the only remaining examples in Cuenca. It’s really amazing they’ve survived at the edge of the cliffs for hundreds of years.

Everywhere you go in Cuenca there is interesting architecture – buildings are positioned so compactly in the maze of alleyways it’s sometimes hard to get a good perspective and figure out how to navigate access to various buildings and churches. *We enjoyed just wandering around the old town.*

Belmonte Castle and Alarcón – Two Medieval Gems Worth Visiting in Central Spain

From Conseugra we were headed to Cuenca, our last overnight stop on our two-week tour of southern Spain. We were sad to be coming to the end of such a wonderful adventure. On the way to Cuenca, we made two stops that were well worth our time, Belmonte (home of Belmonte Castle) and the village of Alarcón.

*Belmonte and Alarcón are located southeast of Madrid, Spain.*

Belmonte Castle

Belmonte Castle is a classic – from the exterior it’s exactly what you’d expect from a late medieval era castle. So classic in fact, that it has been the setting for many films, such as Lord of the Rings (1978), Flesh+Blood (1985), El Cid (1961) and others. The castle was originally built in the second half of the 15th century, but was never completed. It was pretty much abandoned until the mid 1800’s when restoration work was undertaken, and interestingly, the courtyard and interior of the castle were modified to the tastes of the 19th century, and therefore they look much different than the exterior. The castle is in private hands (the family that took over work on the castle in the 1800’s still owns it), and it has been open to the public since 2010.

*View of Belmonte Castle’s courtyard – as mentioned above, it doesn’t look anything like the exterior!*

*You can walk around Belmonte Castle’s ramparts for some great views of the castle’s defensive features and surrounding landscape*.

Castle Interior

Many of the castle’s interior rooms are open for viewing and they are worth a visit – pay particular attention to the fine woodwork detail.

*Interior views of Belmonte Castle – the woodwork found on the ceilings, walls and staircases is outstanding.*

Alarcón

What is most stunning about this little picture-perfect village is its setting and the drive to up to the entrance. One can imagine what it was like hundreds of years ago, and I’m guessing the view has not changed much. The main castle keep is now a parador (hotel). A Moorish fortress was constructed here in the 8th century and forms the basis for the current castle. You certainly can see how this castle was in a perfect defensive location. The town is worth at least a half-hour stroll for its magnificent buildings and setting on a steep, narrow hilltop above a meandering river (Rio Júcar) with defensive towers seen in several directions from the village. Alarcón is about 2 hours southeast of Madrid by car (188 km or 117 miles).

*The view as one enters the village of Alarcón.*

*Views around the village of Alarcón, including the 16th century Church of St. John the Baptist.*

If you’re in Madrid and would like to get out of the city for a bit, head to Alarcón, you won’t be disappointed!

Fortaleza de la Mota – A Fun Stop Between Granada and Córdoba

Fortaleza de La Mota sits on a hilltop dominating the little town of Alcalá la Real, Spain. This interesting fortress-citadel is less than 60 km (37 miles) northwest of Granada, right on the way to Córdoba. It was one of those fun, unplanned discoveries. The night before we left Granada, I was just browsing the internet to see what interesting sights we might find on our way to Córdoba, and came across this gem! Its origins date back to the 8th century although what remains is largely 13th – 14th centuries and later. Originally a Moorish stronghold, it was the last defensive bastion standing in the way of the reconquest of Granada by the Christians in the 15th century.

Since the day of my visit was so cloudy and rainy, I couldn’t get a good photo of the citadel from the lower town, but these images show what it looks like from a bird’s eye view. The image on the right explains the major defensive fortifications.

Unfortunately the weather on the day of my visit was super windy, rainy and cold. So, I grabbed my umbrella and rain jacket and checked out the fortress on my own while my family stayed warm in the car. I am so glad I made the effort! The entrance to the citadel is not hard to find, just drive uphill by car from the modern town center. There is a little parking area, restrooms and visitors booth where you purchase your ticket before taking steep path up to the fortress.

*The pathway into Fortaleza de la Mota. There are signs (in English) describing various sights within the Fortress. On the right the sign explains there was a bakery right there.*

*A display in the church showing what Fortelaza de la Mota may have looked like in its earlier days.*

Once you reach the citadel, there are several things to check out:

Tower of Homage

I welcomed a visit to this tower, which gave me a few minutes respite from the cold wind and rain.

*The Tower of Homage has several exhibits and provides great views of the citadel and on a clear day, the surrounding countryside.*

Mayor Abbey Church

While no longer a functioning church, this structure is quite interesting with several displays and large screens in the nave, where the history of the citadel is explained in a short film.

*Views of the exhibits in the church and the nave where the film is shown. As can be seen, numerous graves were excavated beneath the floor.*

Citadel Ruins

On the plateau outside the tower and church are numerous ruins of the once prosperous citadel. Sign posts help explain the layout and various activities that occurred there. Around the 18th century, the townspeople left the citadel and began to populate the area below it, which was much better suited to agricultural pursuits and population growth.

You can wander among the foundations of the community and imagine the hustle and bustle of life hundreds of years ago – shop keepers, wine makers, and all kinds of other trades to keep the citadel running smoothly.

*Other views of the citadel homes and shops.*

*We can’t forget that the main purpose of Fortaleza de la Mota was defensive.*

*On my way back to the car park, I noticed other extensive ruins cascading down the hillside as the weather cleared a bit. However, I don’t think they are open for the tourist.*

For a little history on Fortaleza de la Mota check out Wikipedia. If you take the drive between Granada and Córdoba, don’t miss this interesting sight! During my visit, I saw two other tourists – I pretty much had the whole site to myself – of course, the weather probably had something to do with that!

Granada, Spain Part 2 – The Alhambra

The primary reason tourists visit Granada is to see the Alhambra (in Arabic, the word means “red castle”), considered one of the top sites in Europe, let alone Spain. This magnificent fortress/palace is a symbol of the power and wealth of the Moors in Spain during a period of about 700 years, although most of what we see now is from the 13th century onwards. Granada was the last bastion of the Moors before the “Reconquista” finally drove them from Spain at the end of the 15th century. In this post, I will not attempt to provide a historical narrative, just some images of this incredible historic site. At the end of the post I share some practical tips for your visit.

The Alhambra encompasses about 26 acres including a mile of fortified walls. Its setting is spectacular, overlooking the city of Granada in one direction and the Sierra Nevada mountains providing a backdrop from the other direction.

*The entrance to the Alhambra passes through expansive gardens and other quiet ruins prior to getting to the main palace and fortress entrance.* *Nearby are the Generalife Gardens, another major sight near the Alhambra. We did not take the time to visit these gardens.*

The Alcazaba (Fortress)

The oldest part of the Alhambra is the Alcazaba, which is the ‘castle’ part of the Alhambra. It was used to house guards of the palace and their families. The first records of the Alcazaba date to the 9th century, but most of what we see today was constructed from 1238 onwards. To get to the Alcazaba, walk to the far end (from the entrance) of the complex. With your ticket, you are allowed one visit to the Alcazaba either before or after visiting the Nasrid Palaces, so plan your visit based on the weather and time of day since you will be outdoors in this portion of the Alhambra.

*The fortress provides access to towers and views of the Alhambra and Granada.*

*The Alhambra complex and specifically the Alcazaba is located on Sabika Hill, which provides a commanding view of central Gran*ada.This location was perfectly chosen due to its strategic position.

The Nasrid Palaces

The Moorish Nasrid Dynasty began in 1238 and this era marked the beginning of the construction of what we call the Nasrid Palaces, the most ornate structures in the Alhambra and some of the best preserved Moorish-era buildings anywhere. The images below are roughly in order of our visit through the palaces. Most rooms in the palaces are signposted with information and corresponding audioguide numbers if you choose to use the guide. Your ticket will likely have a specific entry time for the Nasrid Palaces, be sure to get in line at the appropriate time for entry.

*The Mexuar on the left and the Gilded Room on the right.*

*Two views of the Court of the Myrtles. On the right is a view of the Comares Tower from the Court of the Myrtles, the tallest tower of the Alhambra. Surrounding this couryard were women’s quarters.*

The Hall of the Ambassadors (center) was the throne room and where official receptions took place. The other images show views of adjoining rooms and the incredible artistic detail surrounding the visitor everywhere – hard to absorb so much exquisite work in a short visit.

Views of the Palace and Patio of the Lions, the private chambers of the royal family. This beautiful courtyard was probably my favorite part of the Nasrid Palaces. The fountain in the middle of the courtyard is supported by 12 lions.

Hall of the Abencerrajes on the left and Hall of the Two Sisters on the right – note the fascinating plasterwork of the walls and ceilings. It is believed the Abencerrajes knights were beheaded in the room named after them. These two chambers are close in proximity.

*These two ceilings were intriguing because it is very rare in Moorish buildings to find images of people. They depict the medieval times of the caliphs who ruled Granada.*

Daraxa’s Garden on the left. On the right, a fun little chamber right before you exit the Nasrid Palaces. My mother-in-law is whispering and across this chamber, and in the opposite corner you can hear her perfectly! The sound travels across the arched ceiling so clearly – be careful what you say, someone might be listening!

Charles V Palace

After visiting the Nasrid Palaces, there is a one more site to visit, the Palace of Charles V. Charles V was King of Spain and Holy Roman Emperor of Europe in the 16th century and wanted to stake his claim. Construction started on this Palace in 1527, but it was never finished. After the Nasrid Palaces this part of the Alhambra is a bit of a letdown. There really isn’t much to see here, lots of empty and closed rooms, with a few exhibits in several rooms. The whole purpose of this Palace was to convey the message “we won” by the Christian monarchs after the Reconquista. To make room for this huge palace, part of the original Nasrid Palaces had to be demolished. One kingdom conquering another – the history of our world!

*On the left – some satisfied tourists after visiting the Alhambra (my wife, brother-in-law and mother-in-law). On the right, a view of the Alhambra’s outer walls.*

A few practicalities for visiting the Alhambra: It is essential to get your tickets ahead of time, a few tickets on a daily basis might be available for “walk ups” but don’t plan on it. You can go online to reserve your tickets here. We visited in March, and the crowds were small, partly because things were just reopening from COVID and due to the time of year. There is a bus stop right outside the entrance, and it is a very convenient bus ride from central Granada. The palace and grounds are extensive, so be prepared to do a lot of walking. Allow 3 hours for a visit. Although guides and tours are available, I just followed a travel book outline (Rick Steve’s) for a basic explanation. As shown above, photos are allowed just about everywhere. Most people concentrate on the Nasrid Palaces, but be sure to allow time to visit the Alcazaba for great views of central Granada and the surrounding countryside.

Granada, Spain – Beyond the Alhambra

(Granada is best known as the home of the stunning Alhambra Fortress, but in this post we’re going to focus on some other sights in this amazing city and leave the Alhambra to the next post).

From Gibraltar, we drove northeast towards Granada along the Costa del Sol of Spain – which was quite beautiful. Since were were visiting in March, it really wasn’t beach or swim weather, but we stopped in a couple of beautiful towns to get a feel for the coast. There are lots of vacation homes, resorts and golf courses along the coast. I’d love to go back and spend more time in this area. Gibraltar to Granada is about 284 km or 176 miles via the route we took.

*It’s a scenic drive from Gibraltar to Granada. We stopped briefly in Estepona, a wealthy small town on the coast and then in Nerja, a resort town with a pretty setting on the Costa del Sol.* *We didn’t have the time to stop in Marbella or Malaga, even though those cities would be definitely worth visiting.*

Costa del Sol

*Leaving Gibraltar in the distance…until next time!*

*Views of Nerja. A few people on the beach even in March! It was a bit cool and breezy, but the sunbathers didn’t seem to mind.*

Granada

Granada is one of the main tourist destinations in southern Spain, known primarily for its 13th century Alhambra palace/fortress, one of Europe’s best known treasures. While the Alhambra is outstanding, Granada is fun place to visit for many other reasons as well (my next post will focus on the Alhambra specifically).

We arrived in Granada in mid-afternoon and found our way to our apartment, located in the historic (and hilly) Albaicín (also Albayzín) district, just across a large ravine from the Alhambra. Luckily our apartment had a designated space in a parking garage just a couple blocks away. Parking space is at a premium in this old, charming district.

*Our apartment entrance and interior courtyard in Granada – we had our own private garden space in which to relax.*

Our apartment was in a great location – within walking distance of downtown Granada (if you don’t mind lots of stairways winding down to the main city) and just a bus ride from the Alhambra. Be prepared to get your exercise walking in Granada (up and down many small hills and stairways) or learn to use the bus system. There was a bus stop just a block from our apartment.

*Views of the Albaicín district of Granada. We had fun just wandering the streets one afternoon.*

*A view of the Alhambra and the mountains beyond Granada from the Albaicín district.*

One of the things the Albaicín area of Granada is known for are the flamenco dance shows, many of which are performed in little hillside caves that are part of the restaurants and bars in this areas of town, just across the ravine from the Alhambra. The flamenco art form, in which the dancer creates their own interpretation, is indigenous to southern Spain.

*We made reservations online about 24 hours in advance for a flamenco show which was within walking distance of our apartment. The show lasts about 1 hour*, *with several dancers performing with live musicians.*

*Evening view of the Alhambra from the Albaicín district, near where we saw the flamenco show.*

Central Granada

There’s a lot to explore in Granada. We noticed a strong north African/Arabic influence in the city, both as an important part of its long history and currently – with many internatioinal students, since Granada is home to one of Spain’s largest universities. We found many Arabic restaurants, shops, and historical sights in addition to traditional Gothic European architecture.

*There are lots of Arabic shops in Granada and also ancient Moorish Baths (such as the 12th century El Bañuelo in the photos above) to explore, as well as more modern Baths that rival any modern spa.*

*Left – a typical street scene in Granada with numerous shops. Right – a statue of King Ferdinand, more about this king below.*

*Granada also has many interesting Gothic plazas, churches and streets to wander.*

Cathedral and Royal Chapel

Granada’s 16th century cathedral is located in the heart of downtown Granada. One of its key treasures (located in the Royal Chapel) are the ornate tombs of the 15th century Spanish monarchs – King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella; they requested that their remains be brought to rest in Granada, the city they considered as their crowning achievement of the Reconquista. Their roles in the Reconquista of Spain and commissioning of Columbus’ exploration of the Western Hemisphere changed the course of Western history. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside the Royal Chapel. The figures on the tombs of the King and Queen are quite interesting and definitely worth a thorough look. Their actual remains are in simpler coffins in the crypt below the tombs, you can view these as well.

*A couple views of Granada’s Cathedral – it’s difficult to get a photo of the overall structure due to its location in the heart of the city.*

We’ll cover the magnificent Alhambra in my next post, it is the primary reason why tourists come to Granada, but I recommend you take a little additional time to see more of this marvelous historical city.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers