Visiting Granada Spain

Granada, Spain Part 2 – The Alhambra

The primary reason tourists visit Granada is to see the Alhambra (in Arabic, the word means “red castle”), considered one of the top sites in Europe, let alone Spain. This magnificent fortress/palace is a symbol of the power and wealth of the Moors in Spain during a period of about 700 years, although most of what we see now is from the 13th century onwards. Granada was the last bastion of the Moors before the “Reconquista” finally drove them from Spain at the end of the 15th century. In this post, I will not attempt to provide a historical narrative, just some images of this incredible historic site. At the end of the post I share some practical tips for your visit.

The Alhambra encompasses about 26 acres including a mile of fortified walls. Its setting is spectacular, overlooking the city of Granada in one direction and the Sierra Nevada mountains providing a backdrop from the other direction.

The entrance to the Alhambra passes through expansive gardens and other quiet ruins prior to getting to the main palace and fortress entrance. Nearby are the Generalife Gardens, another major sight near the Alhambra. We did not take the time to visit these gardens.

The Alcazaba (Fortress)

The oldest part of the Alhambra is the Alcazaba, which is the ‘castle’ part of the Alhambra. It was used to house guards of the palace and their families. The first records of the Alcazaba date to the 9th century, but most of what we see today was constructed from 1238 onwards. To get to the Alcazaba, walk to the far end (from the entrance) of the complex. With your ticket, you are allowed one visit to the Alcazaba either before or after visiting the Nasrid Palaces, so plan your visit based on the weather and time of day since you will be outdoors in this portion of the Alhambra.

The fortress provides access to towers and views of the Alhambra and Granada.
The Alhambra complex and specifically the Alcazaba is located on Sabika Hill, which provides a commanding view of central Granada.This location was perfectly chosen due to its strategic position.

The Nasrid Palaces

The Moorish Nasrid Dynasty began in 1238 and this era marked the beginning of the construction of what we call the Nasrid Palaces, the most ornate structures in the Alhambra and some of the best preserved Moorish-era buildings anywhere. The images below are roughly in order of our visit through the palaces. Most rooms in the palaces are signposted with information and corresponding audioguide numbers if you choose to use the guide. Your ticket will likely have a specific entry time for the Nasrid Palaces, be sure to get in line at the appropriate time for entry.

The Mexuar on the left and the Gilded Room on the right.
Two views of the Court of the Myrtles. On the right is a view of the Comares Tower from the Court of the Myrtles, the tallest tower of the Alhambra. Surrounding this couryard were women’s quarters.
The Hall of the Ambassadors (center) was the throne room and where official receptions took place. The other images show views of adjoining rooms and the incredible artistic detail surrounding the visitor everywhere – hard to absorb so much exquisite work in a short visit.
Views of the Palace and Patio of the Lions, the private chambers of the royal family. This beautiful courtyard was probably my favorite part of the Nasrid Palaces. The fountain in the middle of the courtyard is supported by 12 lions.
Hall of the Abencerrajes on the left and Hall of the Two Sisters on the right – note the fascinating plasterwork of the walls and ceilings. It is believed the Abencerrajes knights were beheaded in the room named after them. These two chambers are close in proximity.
These two ceilings were intriguing because it is very rare in Moorish buildings to find images of people. They depict the medieval times of the caliphs who ruled Granada.
Daraxa’s Garden on the left. On the right, a fun little chamber right before you exit the Nasrid Palaces. My mother-in-law is whispering and across this chamber, and in the opposite corner you can hear her perfectly! The sound travels across the arched ceiling so clearly – be careful what you say, someone might be listening!

Charles V Palace

After visiting the Nasrid Palaces, there is a one more site to visit, the Palace of Charles V. Charles V was King of Spain and Holy Roman Emperor of Europe in the 16th century and wanted to stake his claim. Construction started on this Palace in 1527, but it was never finished. After the Nasrid Palaces this part of the Alhambra is a bit of a letdown. There really isn’t much to see here, lots of empty and closed rooms, with a few exhibits in several rooms. The whole purpose of this Palace was to convey the message “we won” by the Christian monarchs after the Reconquista. To make room for this huge palace, part of the original Nasrid Palaces had to be demolished. One kingdom conquering another – the history of our world!

The interesting thing about the Charles V Palace is the huge circular center of the palace. A dome was planned but never built – just too expensive.
On the left – some satisfied tourists after visiting the Alhambra (my wife, brother-in-law and mother-in-law). On the right, a view of the Alhambra’s outer walls.

A few practicalities for visiting the Alhambra: It is essential to get your tickets ahead of time, a few tickets on a daily basis might be available for “walk ups” but don’t plan on it. You can go online to reserve your tickets here. We visited in March, and the crowds were small, partly because things were just reopening from COVID and due to the time of year. There is a bus stop right outside the entrance, and it is a very convenient bus ride from central Granada. The palace and grounds are extensive, so be prepared to do a lot of walking. Allow 3 hours for a visit. Although guides and tours are available, I just followed a travel book outline (Rick Steve’s) for a basic explanation. As shown above, photos are allowed just about everywhere. Most people concentrate on the Nasrid Palaces, but be sure to allow time to visit the Alcazaba for great views of central Granada and the surrounding countryside.

Granada, Spain – Beyond the Alhambra

(Granada is best known as the home of the stunning Alhambra Fortress, but in this post we’re going to focus on some other sights in this amazing city and leave the Alhambra to the next post).

From Gibraltar, we drove northeast towards Granada along the Costa del Sol of Spain – which was quite beautiful. Since were were visiting in March, it really wasn’t beach or swim weather, but we stopped in a couple of beautiful towns to get a feel for the coast. There are lots of vacation homes, resorts and golf courses along the coast. I’d love to go back and spend more time in this area. Gibraltar to Granada is about 284 km or 176 miles via the route we took.

It’s a scenic drive from Gibraltar to Granada. We stopped briefly in Estepona, a wealthy small town on the coast and then in Nerja, a resort town with a pretty setting on the Costa del Sol. We didn’t have the time to stop in Marbella or Malaga, even though those cities would be definitely worth visiting.

Costa del Sol

Leaving Gibraltar in the distance…until next time!
Views of Nerja. A few people on the beach even in March! It was a bit cool and breezy, but the sunbathers didn’t seem to mind.

Granada

Granada is one of the main tourist destinations in southern Spain, known primarily for its 13th century Alhambra palace/fortress, one of Europe’s best known treasures. While the Alhambra is outstanding, Granada is fun place to visit for many other reasons as well (my next post will focus on the Alhambra specifically).

We arrived in Granada in mid-afternoon and found our way to our apartment, located in the historic (and hilly) Albaicín (also Albayzín) district, just across a large ravine from the Alhambra. Luckily our apartment had a designated space in a parking garage just a couple blocks away. Parking space is at a premium in this old, charming district.

Our apartment entrance and interior courtyard in Granada – we had our own private garden space in which to relax.

Our apartment was in a great location – within walking distance of downtown Granada (if you don’t mind lots of stairways winding down to the main city) and just a bus ride from the Alhambra. Be prepared to get your exercise walking in Granada (up and down many small hills and stairways) or learn to use the bus system. There was a bus stop just a block from our apartment.

Views of the Albaicín district of Granada. We had fun just wandering the streets one afternoon.
A view of the Alhambra and the mountains beyond Granada from the Albaicín district.

One of the things the Albaicín area of Granada is known for are the flamenco dance shows, many of which are performed in little hillside caves that are part of the restaurants and bars in this areas of town, just across the ravine from the Alhambra. The flamenco art form, in which the dancer creates their own interpretation, is indigenous to southern Spain.

We made reservations online about 24 hours in advance for a flamenco show which was within walking distance of our apartment. The show lasts about 1 hour, with several dancers performing with live musicians.
Evening view of the Alhambra from the Albaicín district, near where we saw the flamenco show.

Central Granada

There’s a lot to explore in Granada. We noticed a strong north African/Arabic influence in the city, both as an important part of its long history and currently – with many internatioinal students, since Granada is home to one of Spain’s largest universities. We found many Arabic restaurants, shops, and historical sights in addition to traditional Gothic European architecture.

There are lots of Arabic shops in Granada and also ancient Moorish Baths (such as the 12th century El Bañuelo in the photos above) to explore, as well as more modern Baths that rival any modern spa.

Left – a typical street scene in Granada with numerous shops. Right – a statue of King Ferdinand, more about this king below.

Granada also has many interesting Gothic plazas, churches and streets to wander.

Cathedral and Royal Chapel

Granada’s 16th century cathedral is located in the heart of downtown Granada. One of its key treasures (located in the Royal Chapel) are the ornate tombs of the 15th century Spanish monarchs – King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella; they requested that their remains be brought to rest in Granada, the city they considered as their crowning achievement of the Reconquista. Their roles in the Reconquista of Spain and commissioning of Columbus’ exploration of the Western Hemisphere changed the course of Western history. Unfortunately no photos are allowed inside the Royal Chapel. The figures on the tombs of the King and Queen are quite interesting and definitely worth a thorough look. Their actual remains are in simpler coffins in the crypt below the tombs, you can view these as well.

A couple views of Granada’s Cathedral – it’s difficult to get a photo of the overall structure due to its location in the heart of the city.

We’ll cover the magnificent Alhambra in my next post, it is the primary reason why tourists come to Granada, but I recommend you take a little additional time to see more of this marvelous historical city.