Mallorca & Menorca

Mallorca’s Southeast Coast – Home to Some of Its (and the World’s) Most Beautiful Beaches

After enjoying the Palma area and exploring the north/west coast of Mallorca, we moved on to our 2nd stop, Cala d’Or, a great location to explore the leeward side of Mallorca. The southeast coast is dotted with beautiful coves and beaches (I think there are over 100), many of which require a bit of a hike to get to, while others are easily accessible by car.

Alua Soul Hotel – Cala d’Or

We stayed at the Alua Soul Hotel in Cala d’Or, and we were not disappointed. The hotel property surrounds a small cove (Cala Egos, to which the public also has access) and is in a perfect location for exploring this beautiful part of Mallorca.

*Cala Egos – this is the view from our room at the Alua Soul Hotel – I think I could have stayed here forever!*

*Cala d’Or has lots of shops and restaurants, this particular shopping/restaurant area was very close to our hotel.*

Cala d’Or is a major boat harbor and tourist hub (although it did not feel all that crowded – the hotels and condos are spread out and tucked behind the various hills and coves). If you get tired of the beach, there are lots of other things to do here, such as renting ATV’s, going on fishing or sailing expeditions and many other activities to keep you and your family or friends entertained!

Mondragó Park

Near Cala d’Or is Mondrago Park (Parc natural de Mondragó). This nature park has lots of parking (fee required), wide beaches, snack vendors and restrooms. The beaches and shallow water are great for families. There are two beach areas connected by a trail (just a 5 minute walk between the two beaches). Speaking of families, let me point out that these are “European” beaches, which means you will likely encounter some topless sunbathers, as with most beaches in Mallorca (or any Mediterranean island for that matter). However, the protocol is that everyone covers up at the snack bars, going to/from the restroom, beach, etc.

*If you’re after a little more solitude, this little cove is also in *Mondragó Park*.*

Cala des Moro

This is perhaps the most famous (and beautiful?) beach and cove on Mallorca. Arrive early (like by 8 or 9 am) to enjoy a quieter beach experience and to find parking. You walk south from the parking area off the main road through a small residential neighborhood and just keep working your way to the coastline. It’s about a 20 minute walk/hike from the parking area to the beach – be prepared for a steep descent/ascent into/out of the cove. Just follow the crowd. At the top of the cove, there was an enterprising drink/snack vendor. I will say this is one of the most scenic beaches I’ve ever seen. The water is warm and the color is about the prettiest turquoise shade possible.

Other Beautiful Beaches

Further up the coast from Cala d’Or, the coves & beaches just keep on coming….here are two other examples that are near Porto Cristo, 28 km (17 miles) north of Cala d’Or and easily accessible by car (parking is next to the beach in both cases). Porto Cristo is the home of Cuevas del Drach (Drach Caves) which I will share more about in my next post!

Cala Anguila

Cala Mendia

No matter where you choose to stay while in Mallorca, be sure to visit the south/east coast of this beautiful island.

Beyond Palma – Touring North/Western Mallorca – Part 2

North/Western Mallorca (island of Spain) has some really lovely and historic towns as well as amazing scenery. In continuing our visit to this part of the island, here are a few other gems in addition to those listed in my Part 1 post. For an overview of our Mallorca (and Menorca) visit my post here.

Valldemossa

Valldemossa is the quintessential European mountain village. In visiting this town, you wouldn’t know that you are just a few kilometers away from some of the most beautiful and touristy beaches in the world. As we drove into town I stopped to take a photo of the village, and I could hear bells tinkling as sheep quietly grazed in the hillsides, oblivious to their surroundings.

In addition to its scenic location, Valldemossa is famous for one of its most illustrious short-term residents, Frédéric Chopin, one of the preeminent composers and pianists of the 19th century, who was from Poland. He and his girlfriend (known by her pen name of George Sand) lived in Valldemossa during the winter of 1838 – 1839. George (her real name: Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin de Francueil) was a French novelist and quite a respected and well-known author in her lifetime.

*A bust of Chopin, a portrait of George Sand and their living quarters museum at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa.*

They came to Mallorca with hopes to improve Chopin’s health, but the accommodations and cold winter weather did not help. The palace-monastery (Royal Charterhouse of Valldemossa) where they lived is the main sight in this little village. A tour of the Charterhouse includes dormitory rooms dedicated to Chopin’s stay and his works as well as George Sand’s.

A display of works by George Sand, compositions by Chopin, and the famous French Pleyel piano, which Chopin used to compose his Preludes during the latter part of his visit to Mallorca. There is some controversy about whether this is the actual piano, which has a story all of its own.

Royal Charterhouse of Valldemossa

This 13th century Palace was donated to the Carthusian Order of the Catholic Church in 1399. The Carthusian monks inhabited the Monastery until 1835 when the facilities were sold into a private estate and the small dormitory rooms then became available for rent. Chopin and Sand were not married, and after this was discovered they sought seclusion from the disapproving public in Palma and rented a room at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa, a very remote village at the time.

*Exterior views of the Charterhouse (former royal palace and monastery).*

In addition to the cells and displays dedicated to Chopin and Sand, you also have an opportunity to tour some of the features of the monastery and elegant rooms of the palace.

*The monastery’s pharmacy and monk’s cell displays.*

*Rooms in the Palace portion of the Charterhouse.*

And at certain times of the day, a short (15 minute) beautiful recital is given of Chopin’s music. We were fortunate that the recital timing coincided with our visit perfectly. You can then tour the gardens of the Charterhouse.

Recital of Chopin’s music at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa, Mallorca.

This was a really interesting stop, we enjoyed our visit.

Sóller & Porto Sóller

Just 24 km (15 miles) north of Valldemossa is the pretty town of Sóller. Like Andraxt, there are two parts to Sóller. The inland town and port are both attractive and popular tourist spots, especially for hikers and cyclists and for those seeking some beach time. Sóller became wealthy in the 19th century due to its citrus groves and fruit exports to France. Today beautiful small hotels and apartments surround the peaceful harbor and beach.

*Left, a tram transports you 3 km from the inland town to the port. Views of scenic Porto Sóller with its pleasant sandy and shaded beach.*

The inland town is also quite picturesque and worth a stroll. I bought some great Mallorcan shoes from a local cobbler – they have a unique style!

Views of Sóller. If the buildings in the center and right images look a bit like Gaudi’s work, it’s because his disciple, Joan Rubió Bellver, designed the facades during a facelift in the mid 1900’s. The church (right, Sant Bartomeu de Sóller) was originally built in the 12th century.

*My Mallorcan shoes! I wear a size 11.5 – 12 and it was a little hard to find that big of a shoe (44 in European sizes).*

Fornalutx

One little town we passed through quickly (we visited it on our last day in Mallorca as we were headed to the airport) was Fornalutx, which is only 4 km from Sóller. It is another little scenic town and worth a stroll of its main street. It might be a great place to stay on the north/west coast of the island and perhaps less expensive and quieter than Sóller or Deià.

*Views of Fornalutx – with jugglers on stilts!*

Beyond Palma – Touring Western Mallorca – Part 1

From our base in Palma, we did a couple of day trips through the western part of Mallorca. The north/western shore of Mallorca is rugged and this mountainous area (known as the Serra de Tramuntana), is Mallorca’s “backbone”, with narrow winding roads, steep hills, dramatic coastline and several quaint medieval villages. As mentioned in my Overview of Mallorca, bicyclists are everywhere – some are just out for fun while others do serious training here.

*Mallorca’s dramatic western coastline.*

Andraxt and Port Andraxt

Andraxt was our first stop along the southwest coast from Palma. We skipped the touristy and trendy Magaluf area, (a short distance from Palma), and decided to check out the quieter southwestern end of the island. As with a number of coastal towns on Mallorca, the town of Andraxt and its port share the same name and are just a few kilometers apart. Hundreds of years ago, the inland town separated from the port provided some protection against raids by pirates. Andraxt and Port Andraxt is one such example. It was interesting to see the difference between the two – Port Andraxt is the modern tourist hub with sleek yachts in the harbor and the old town of Andraxt is nestled in the hills and feels like it’s from a completely different era.

*Above – Port Andraxt, lined with shops and restaurants, and moorage for boats.*

*The old town of Andraxt with Port Andraxt in the distance – it was very difficult to find a place to get a photo of the town and port!*

St. Elm Beach

Not far from Andraxt was St. Elm Beach, about a 45 minute drive from Palma. St. Elm is a small resort town at the very tip of southwestern Mallorca. We spent a couple hours enjoying the scenery and beach here. There was a small car park just across the street from the main beach and behind the beach is a line of restaurants and shops facing the beautiful bay, with the uninhabited islet of El Pantaleu just offshore.

*Another view of St. Elm Beach and islet of El Pantaleu*

Banyalbufar

North and east along the coast from St. Elm is the municipality of Banyalbufar, with dramatic coastline as shown above in this post and with one of the many scenic medieval towers in Mallorca keeping watch over the coast.

Miramar Monastery

Situated between Valldemossa and Deia, this 13th century monastery is worth a visit – the views from its terraces are lovely. There’s not much left of the original monastery, but there are a few buildings, a small museum and gardens to provide an idea of what life was like for the early inhabitants – monks who were learning Eastern languages in order to take the gospel to the Moors.

*Old olive presses and other machinery at Miramar Monastery.*

*Coastline view from the garden terraces at Miramar Monastery – a fantastic peaceful setting.*

Deia

Not far from the Miramar Monastery is this little village, perched on a hilltop on the western coast of Mallorca, which has an outsized reputation as a real hot spot. In fact, it’s so busy that we could not find any place to park as we drove by the town. Deia is known for its scenic setting, quaint streets, magnetic star power (lots of music and movie stars have hung out here), and beautiful cove and beach. Traffic was stop and go along the road passing near the town, everyone was looking for a parking spot, just like us. We really wanted to stop and I did a couple passes by the town, but the tiny car parks were continually full. The road is so narrow with cliffs on both sides that you cannot pull off the side of the road. We gave up and just took this picture out of the car window! Maybe you’ll have better luck. Perhaps later in the season or another time of day would have been better (we were there in early September).

In my next post, we’ll explore the villages of Valldemossa and Sóller, two other very beautiful and historic towns on Mallorca’s western coast.

Top Sights in Palma de Mallorca, Spain

Our first stop in Mallorca was Palma de Mallorca, the main city, port, cruise ship and tourist hub on the island. Palma has a lovely old quarter with a classic Gothic cathedral, old city walls, a wonderful bike path running along the harbor for about 9 miles and sandy beaches within a short distance. Visiting the Palma area alone could be great one-stop vacation since it has so much to offer.

*View of cruise ships in Palma de Mallorca’s harbor.*

We used Palma as our base for exploring not only the town, but also the western part of the island, which worked out great. We didn’t spend time on the beaches right near Palma simply because much of the rest of our visit around the island was going to be focused on exploring and relaxing on a variety of Mallorca’s many beaches.

Listed below are a few key sights in Palma.

Palma’s Old Quarter and Cathedral

While Palma is a big city, like most European cities the old town is compact and very easy to access. The “Catedral-Basílica de Santa María de Mallorca” is the postcard image of Palma, with a stunning setting on Palma’s beautiful harbor.

*Palma’s 13th century Gothic Cathedral is an iconic landmark, visible from many locations around the city and bay.*

*Views from the rooftop of Palma’s Cathedral – definitely worth a visit.*

*Interior views of Palma’s Cathedral. the chandelier over the altar in the center image is the work of Gaudi from the late 1800’s.*

The Royal Palace of La Almudaina, which dates back to the 14th century, is the official residence of the King and Queen during their stays in Mallorca. The palace is next to the Cathedral and may be visited.

*There are massive walls on the seafront of Palma’s old town.* *The Cathedral is in the distance.*

*Views of Palma’s old town, which boasts some beautiful architecture.*

Bellver Castle

This is an interesting 14th century castle located on the western edge of central Palma, with its unique circular construction it is the only existing castle in Spain with this shape. The castle has served as a royal palace and a prison. There are few castles in Mallorca and Bellver Castle is by far the grandest.

*You get a fantastic view of central Palma from the rooftop of Bellver Castle.*

*Other exterior views of Bellver Castle.*

*The castle’s interior has some historical displays and the large courtyard is used for various performances.*

Arab Baths (Banys Arab)

Not far from the Cathedral are the 10th century Arab Baths, believed to be part of wealthy person’s home in the original Moorish city that was the foundation of Palma. Although small, they are definitely worth a visit. It’s interesting (and fortunate) that these baths have survived so long in central Palma, as they are above ground and right in the heart of the old town. To get here, we just walked there by following the signs on the sides of the buildings on the narrow streets east of the Cathedral. We made a couple wrong turns, but found the Baths without much difficulty.

*The exterior of the Arab Baths, believed to be part of a noble person’s residence 1,000 years ago.*

*Interior of the Baths. The columns are believed to have been “recycled” from Roman-era buildings. These baths used the same engineering principles as Roman-era baths.*

*One of my favorite images of the Baths.*

The small Bishop’s Museum (Museu Diocesà) is in the 13th century Bishop’s Palace behind the Cathedral and also near the Arab Baths. It is worth a visit. The Cathedral ticket covers the entrance fee for this museum as well. The image shown is an amazing wooden mural containing scenes from Christ’s life.

*One can never pass up the amazing gelato available in Palma and many other places on Mallorca!*

Melia Palma Bay Hotel

We stayed at the Meliá Palma Bay hotel, just a few minutes from the old town and across the street from the beach and biking path.

Here are a couple photos taken from the rooftop pool and lounge area. The hotel also has a bicycle rental shop, which I highly recommend. It was fun biking along the path right next to the beach.

The Melia Palma Hotel has a great setting, right next to the beach, with views of the city, bay and cruise ship port. The pool was an enjoyable, relaxing experience at the end of a good day of touring this beautiful island.

In our next post, we’ll explore the north/west coast of Mallorca.

Mallorca (Majorca) and Menorca (Minorca) – Spain’s Well-Kept Secret Islands (at least from Americans)

My wife and I love exploring the Mediterranean’s host of magical islands for so many reasons, but as of 2022, we had not yet visited Spain’s share of these islands and so we decided to take a September trip to Mallorca and Menorca (with few days in Barcelona on our way home). September was a perfect time to go – the water was still warm and the days long enough to allow plenty of exploring, with fewer tourists than might be found in July or August. United Airlines started offering seasonal direct service to Palma, Mallorca from Newark, NJ in the summer of 2022. I think that was a fabulous decision, even though locals may not agree!

In this post, I’ll provide a short overview of these two islands and in future posts go into more detail on each.

Why Mallorca and Menorca?

As mentioned above, we love the Mediterranean – the beautiful coastlines, ancient and medieval-era historical sites, incredible beaches and the variety of cultures and languages to be found throughout the region. We also love that these (Mallorca and Menorca) islands don’t really seem to be on US tourists’ European vacation maps yet, at least not to the same degree as a London, Paris or Rome.

*One of the many beautiful coves on the island of Mallorca. Like many of these coves, it takes a little hiking to get here.*

However, please don’t think that the islands are void of tourists – that’s hardly the case. Car parks for the most accessible beautiful beaches and coves fill up fast – you have to get there early (or arrive late in the day) if you want a convenient parking spot. It seems that most of the tourists to these islands come from Germany and the UK, although cruise ships also visit Palma. Cycling on the narrow winding roads through the mountains of Mallorca is a favorite pastime in addition to hiking, 4 wheeling, and of course all kinds of water sports.

*When driving in Mallorca, one needs to be careful of the cyclists sharing the road.*

Even with all the tourists, it’s still possible to visit little towns on both islands and pretty much be the only tourists in sight.

*The scenic town of Arta in the northeast corner of Mallorca – few tourists here.*

Mallorca and Menorca are quite different from one another. Mallorca is larger, more mountainous, with a significantly larger population (about half of which live in the Palma area) and caters to more tourists, who tend to stay put in specific regions of the island. Menorca is smaller in size and population with fewer tourists, and feels more rural. Both islands offer stunningly clear turquoise water, incredible coves and beaches – some of the prettiest anywhere on the planet – and interesting historical sites and towns.

*Torre d’ en Galmes, one of Menorca’s many prehistoric ruins.*

Where are Mallorca and Menorca?

Mallorca and Menorca are two of the three primary Balearic islands, belonging to Spain, the other being Ibiza. Ibiza has a reputation as a real “party” island and we preferred a bit different experience. Plus, as stated above, we could fly directly to Palma from the US. Mallorca and Menorca are close together geographically and it’s easy to get from one island to the other (just a 30 minute flight), or by taking a longer ferry ride.

Mallorca and Menorca are in the western Mediterranean Sea. It is a short flight from Barcelona to Mallorca or Menorca – about an hour (approximately 158 miles or 255 km). We flew to Barcelona from Menorca for a few days at the end of our stay and then directly from Barcelona to Washington, D.C.

Be on the lookout for many more posts to come about these beautiful islands!

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers