India

10 Exhilarating Biking Trips in India

In this article our guest writer, Rohit Agarwal, explores 10 great biking adventures in India. See his bio below.

For the biking enthusiasts among us, India can prove to be a wonderful destination to take amazing trips because of the differing levels of challenging terrains across the country and the breath-taking view of the landscapes it has to offer. Here are ten of the best trails within the country that are sure to provide you with a delightful experience.

1. Iruppu To Ooty

Photo by Zigg-E, CC BY-ND 2.0

Distance Covered: 4 h 35 min (157.0 km)
Places of Stay: Hotel Lakeview in Ooty & Tropical Blooms in Iruppu.
Bike Rentals: From Royal Brothers Bike Rental in Coorg (1 hour away from Iruppu). One way rental not available.

A trail that takes about 4 to 5 days to complete, the places the trip of Ooty covers are absolutely stunning. The glorious sound of the mountain streams and lush greenery of the Nilgiri Hills will make you gaze in wonder at the beauty of Mother Nature.

2. Bomdila To Tawang

Photo by Bobinson K B, CC BY-SA 2.0

Distance Covered: 5 h 48 min (170.2 km).
Places of Stay: Hotel Tashi Ga Tsel in Tawang & Hotel Seagull in Bomdila.
Bike Rentals: Rent a bike from Guwahati via Rentrip, Awerides or The Highland Outback Riders etc. One way rental not available.

With the snow-clad mountains peeking in at almost every point of this trip to Bomdila, this is a trail that offers a moderate difficulty level and unlimited views of Nature’s exquisiteness. The rice plantations and gorgeous forests the trail takes you through are truly sights to behold.

3. Shimla To Manali

Photo by _paVan_, CC BY 2.0

Distance Covered: 7 h 4 min (247.5 km).
Places of Stay: Hotel Sidharath in Shimla and Hotel Greenfields in Manali.
Bike Rentals: Rentrip offers one way rental services in this route.

The trails of Himanchal Pradesh are absolutely stunning and the Spiti Valley offers many challenges to get the blood pumping in your veins as you travel to Manali through the charming valley as the rich vegetation surrounds you with its splendour.

4. Salem To Kolli Hills

Photo by Sodabottle, CC BY-SA 3.0

Distance Covered: 1 h 13 min (61.8 km).
Places of Stay: Nallathambi Resort in Kolli Hills and Hotel Ashwa Park in Salem.
Bike Rentals: Self Drive in Salem, A 1 Tour & Travels and many other options available. One way rental would require extra charge.

Not only are the impressive Kolli Hills known for the amazing view of the extravagant landscapes but also for the 70-hairpin bends that offer a real challenge to all those biking junkies with prior moderate experience.

5. Mumbai To Daman

Photo by Jugni, CC BY-SA 3.0

Distance Covered: 2 h 54 min (176.9 km).
Places of Stay: Silver Sands Beach Resort in Daman & Hotel Transit in Mumbai.
Bike Rentals: Ziphop, GetSetWheel and many more. One way rental would cost more.

This is a calm and quiet trail filled with beautiful forts, fun casinos and striking beaches. It takes about 2 to 3 days to complete the journey to Daman and is an ideal choice for those looking for a modest trip to appreciate the quaint town out in Daman.

6. Pollachi To Chalakudy

Distance Covered: 2 h 43 min (129.3 km).
Places of Stay: Pollachi Classic Club in Pollachi and Bethania Resorts in Chalakudy.
Bike Rentals: From Coimbatore via Rentrip or Royal Picks. One way rental not available.

Rated as one of the most breath-taking journeys to take, this trail passes through the amazing Vazhachal Forest, with numerous waterfalls, streams, dams and reservoirs along the way to make the experience that much more memorable. The evergreen forests and stunning flora along with the thrilling terrain creates an experience that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

7. Jaipur To Jaisalmer

Photo by Jorge Láscar, CC BY 2.0

Distance Covered: 9 h 19 min (558.9 km).
Places of Stay: Hotel Tokyo Palace in Jaisalmer and Hotel Kalyan in Jaipur.
Bike Rentals: Rent Set Go, Rentrip, Wicked Ride etc. One way rental would cost extra if the bike rental is not in the end destination.

What makes this trail unique is that it takes you through astonishing deserts and beautiful views of the landscape of Rajasthan. You also get the chance to experience the colourful local food, the jaw dropping architecture and the inspiring lifestyle of the people inhabiting the rural parts of the state.

8. Darjeeling To Sikkim

Photo by MithilaConnect, CC BY 2.0

Distance Covered: 4 h 36 min (126.2 km).
Places of Stay: Hotel Shangri-La Regency, Darjeeling and Hotel Saikripa, Gangtok.
Bike Rentals: Adventures Unlimited and Darjeeling Riders. One way rental would cost more.

A trip to Darjeeling, that is sure to mesmerise your senses and get your adrenaline rushing through your veins, this trail offers a fantastic view of the mighty Himalayan mountains all throughout the surreal journey and the various cultures and religions you get to discover and explore along the way are unique and impressive in their own rights. Add to that the hospitality and warmth of the local people and what you have is a beautiful collection of memories and lovely experiences to take away.

9. Delhi To Nainital

Photo by Ekabhishek, CC BY-SA 3.0

Distance Covered: 6 h 50 min (301.0 km).
Places of Stay: Hotel Delhi Darbar, Delhi and Treebo Cloud 7, Nainital.
Bike Rentals: Rentrip, Rent Set Go and Wheel Street. One way rental available.

The trip which starts from the enthralling capital and leads to the exquisite city of lakes via Corbett-Mukhteshwar is a journey filled challenges and thrills. The winding roads, orchards lining the sides of the trail and lavish woodlands filled with various types of flora are truly sights to behold.

10. Siliguri To Gangtok

Photo by Christopher J. Fynn, CC BY-SA 4.0

Distance Covered: 3 hr 45 min (116.1 km)
Place of Stay: Hotel Saikripa Gangtok and Hotel Sharda, Siliguri.
Bike Rentals: Darjeeling Riders, Adventures Unlimited, Rentrip. One way rental available.

One of the most popular trails in the North-Eastern region of the country, the journey is quite challenging due to the steep route that is sure to test your skills. The astonishing culture present here is a lovely mix of both Hinduism and Buddhism.

So, what are you waiting for? Pick up your gear, choose the destination and set on a trail that challenges the biker in you. With the rush of adrenaline pumping through your body and the exquisite scenery you get the chance to visit, any journey you choose is sure to be unforgettable and full of lovely memories to take back home.

Guest Author Bio: Rohit is an adventure sports junkie and enthusiastic traveller residing in India. He enjoys writing content for Trans India Travels and hopes to inspire his readers to join him on the numerous trips he takes across the country.

5 Interesting Things to Do in Kochi, India

In this article our guest writer, Rohit Agarwal, explores Kochi, in the state of Kerala, India. See his bio below.

Kerala is a state in India that is blessed with inherent natural beauty, calm, peaceful beaches and very rich cultural heritage. Kerala’s financial capital Kochi is one of the most favourite holiday destinations of tourists. Kochi has variety of things to offer that fulfils wanderlust of travellers having altogether different interests. Right from marvellous beaches to huge museums and from jungle walks to folk dance theatres, Kochi is full of attractions to make your stay here memorable. To celebrate a holiday that would have a never-fading impression on your mind, here is a list of a couple of interesting things you can do in Kochi.

Go for Kayaking in backwaters of river Periyar

In Kochi, one can experience the pleasant Kerala backwaters while gliding the kayak. Many boat clubs and adventure sports companies provide excellent facilities of Kayaking in the river Periyar with complete safety and guidance.

Photo by Challlivan, CC BY-SA 3.0

The experience of kayaking in the morning while listening to chorus of birds at dawn and witnessing an alluring sunrise can be mesmerizing; while moonlight kayaking can soothe your soul and offer romantic moments to cherish forever. Considering such a perfect combination of thrill and bonding with nature, kayaking definitely should be on your list of must-do things in Kochi!

Visit a spa and get a rejuvenating Ayurvedic massage

It would be a bonus to have a perfect massage on a refreshing trip, wouldn’t it? Kochi has some extraordinarily luxurious spas that practice ancient art and science of Ayurveda to offer you a rejuvenating experience of massage. In this massage offered by the therapists trained under Ayurveda masters, you can experience each cell in your body getting relaxed and all your stress and tiredness vanishing! During a visit to a close-to-nature city, Kochi, experiencing a completely natural massage will certainly reignite your life force.

Witness the Chinese Fishing Nets in action

It is said that Chinese Fishing Nets were introduced in Fort Kochi by the Chinese explorer, Zheng He. These nets are fixed land installations, which are used for an unusual method of fishing.

Photo by Kreativeart, CC BY-SA 4.0

Witnessing the use of these ancient objects by local fishermen is a very unique experience to have. An ideal place to watch fishermen use these nets is the Vasco da Gama square. There you can actually see these nets lowering into the sea and fish being caught in nets! The Vasco da Gama square also has food stalls that serve fresh and tasty seafood. Spending an evening here enjoying an amazing view of the sunset can be a mesmerising experience.

Experience live performance of Kathakali dance

Kathakali is one of the 7 classical Indian dance forms and is a dance-drama traditional to Kerala. The grand make-up of the artists and the graceful way of narrating meaningful mythological stories enthral the spectators.

Photo by AnastesMp, CC0 1.0

Learning the art of Kathakali is not an easy task. It requires years of intense training and it is evident from the performances one can experience while in Kochi. Places such as Cochin Cultural Centre, Kerala Kathakali Centre, Greenix Village offer the opportunity to watch Kathakali performance.

Evening walk on Princess street

Princess Street is the oldest street in Fort Kochi surrounded by buildings with civil colonial architecture. The street has a number of coffee shops where aroma of coffee and fresh bread fills the air and you feel like being in a western world!

Photo by Oboe, CC BY 3.0

The street has many restaurants and yes, shops! An evening walk along the old street, catching glimpse of remnants of European architecture and shopping ‘masala’ from tiny shops is surely a refreshing experience for anyone visiting Kochi.

The list is really unending as Kochi is an amazing tourist spot, but one thing is true for sure – Once you have been to Kochi you can’t stop yourself from falling in love with it!

Rohit Agarwal is a traveller and a blogger at Trans India Travels. A true nature lover at heart, Rohit was fascinated by cultural and biological diversity in India and is in search of the most interesting tourist sites in India.

Mumbai – The Gateway to India

Our last stop in India was Mumbai. We really didn’t know what to expect. Having read books like “Shantaram” by Gregory David Roberts, and seen movies like “Slumdog Millionaire”, we had expected a more chaotic and grimy city with vast slums, but what we found was a vibrant, modern and quickly changing city. The city center has a bit of a European feel, probably not surprising given the British colonial influence during the 19^th and 20^th centuries.

While there is no question that poverty is widespread, the city also has beautiful parks, shops, restaurants and promenades.

One of the many elegant buildings in Mumbai.

A beautiful beach area in Mumbai – in the exclusive part of the city.

This is an interesting park. It’s built over the top of huge water storage tanks.

A typical apartment building in Mumbai.

We were in Mumbai for two days, which gave us enough time to get a feel for this fascinating city. Through our hotel, we hired a driver to give us a tour of some of the key sights.

Below are the main places we visited:

Victoria Terminus Station (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus). This visually stunning building is a major landmark of Mumbai. As one of Mumbai’s main train stations, it is a busy place. The exterior is a weird combination of Gothic and Moorish design.

A view of Victoria Station in Mumbai.

Another view of Victoria Terminus Station.

Gateway of India. This is another landmark of Mumbai, and was built to commemorate the landing of the King and Queen of England in 1911. Construction started in 1913 and was finished 11 years later. It was the ceremonial entrance to India for Viceroys and Governors of Bombay (Mumbai). The last British troops to leave India in 1948 passed through the Gateway on their way out.

The Gateway of India, on the shores of the Arabian Sea.

The elegant Taj Mahal Hotel, near the Gateway of India.

The Dharavi Slum. These are probably the most common images that come to mind when thinking of Mumbai. If you’ve seen the movie Slumdog Millionaire, the setting for much of the movie is the slum from which the protagonist comes (and which are close to the Mumbai airport). Also, the book Shantaram, which is about an Australian man running from the law, describes the author living in the slums of Mumbai while making friends both with locals and foreigners.

Many of the slum dwellings have exterior latrines that drop waste directly into the canal.

Another view of the slums– don’t drink the water!

Life on the streets in Mumbai – note the gentleman bathing out of a bucket.

While these slums still exist, they are shrinking as the government bulldozes old neighborhoods and puts the population into new high rise accommodations. It’s likely that one day the slums will be just a memory.

Contrary to what might be a typical perception, these slums are a beehive of hard work and productivity. We saw industrious people everywhere working with all kinds of materials: metal, glass, leather, cloth, dyes, and pottery clay to name a few.

Metal items being loaded on a truck.

Many items are being prepared for recycling and very little, if anything, is wasted.

Recycling washing machines in the slums.

The people working here seemed to be very willing to let us wander around and check out their shops and working environment.

Mixing the pottery clay.

A pottery worker in Dharavi slum.

The Fishing Village. Another area of industry in Mumbai is the fishing village. Boats and nets are everywhere and the smell of the sea is strong here. Not an area where I’d want to relax on the beach, but an interesting stop!

A view of the fishing village.

On the “beach” at the Fishing Village. I wouldn’t want to swim here, but we did see a gentleman swimming in from his boat (actually you can see his head right behind my head to the right).

Colorful fishing boats with a contrast of housing in the background.

The Laundry (Dhobi Ghat). This was one of the most fascinating parts of our tour. Huge volumes of clothing and other items from hotels are hand laundered here.

The huge outdoor laundry.

A worker washing clothes.

Another view of the laundry. Not sure I’d want my clothes washed here…

Clearly there is a system, but the volume of washing and variety of activity going on here boggles the mind. There are many laborers working in the various basins of water – washing, rinsing, and hanging clothes out to dry.

Leopold’s. This popular restaurant and bar figures prominently into the book “Shantaram” and therefore we had to stop by. It’s always fun visiting a place that you’re read about and seeing it in real life.

Leopold’s Restaurant–pretty good food here!

The Mani Bhavan. This was Mahatma Gandhi’s residence in Mumbai. The whole residence has been turned into an excellent museum, containing exhibits about his life, with many pictures, displays and documents with the writings of this remarkable man who used nonviolence to have so much impact on obtaining India’s freedom from Britain.

The Mani Bhavan, Gandhi’s residence in Mumbai, now a museum of his life.

A room where Gandhi would sit and weave his cloth.

Although the rest of India offers so much to the tourist, a visit wouldn’t be complete without a stop in Mumbai.

The World Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora Caves – Part II

In my last post I shared our visit to the Ajanta Temple Cave complex in central India. In this post I will cover the Ellora Caves and the Daulatabad Fortress. The Ellora Caves are about 105 km (60 miles) north of Aurangabad (which is about 217 miles northeast of Mumbai).

As outstanding as the Ajanta Caves are, the Ellora Caves, which are carved out of solid rock, are even more stunning. While they don’t have the ancient temperas (paintings) seen in Ajanta, the magnificence of the structures and intricacies of the carvings—formed and shaped with rudimentary tools out of a rock escarpment is truly an amazing sight. These temples, monasteries and chapels were carved over five centuries starting with the Buddhist caves around 600 AD. There are 34 caves in all. The monks were clearly master stone masons.

Known as Cave 32, this is a Jain temple at the northern end of the Ellora complex.

Cave 15, a Hindu temple.

The “granddaddy” structure is the Hindu Kailasa temple, which is the largest and grandest structure of the Ellora complex and the world’s largest monolithic structure. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It took 7,000 laborers about 150 years to create this magnificent temple.

The entrance to the Kailasa Temple.

Kailasa Temple from the courtyard.

One more view of Kailasa Temple – the people around the base give an indication of the enormous size.

A detail of Kailasa Temple showing some of the original paint decorations.

Although very few do it, it is worth hiking up behind the temple to look down on the structure from above and to get a better feel how this temple emerged from a cliff side of rock (go to the right of the temple entrance and hike up the hill). Imagine taking a hammer and chisel and starting to chip away at the hard ground, and having to precisely carve to create this masterpiece – one mistake and the structure would have to be redesigned – there is no forgiveness working in the solid rock.

A view of the Kailasa Temple from above – imagine just a rock hillside and starting to hammer and chisel away at the rock with this beautiful structure in mind.

A closer look at Kailasa Temple from above.

Practical Information: There are Buddhist, Hindu and Jain Cave groupings within the complex. We started at the north end (Jain caves) and worked our way south (Hindu caves are in the middle and Buddhist caves are in the southern grouping). The caves stretch over a 2 kilometer (about 1.2 mile) length of rock escarpment, so be prepared for some walking. You can have your driver drop you off at the north end and work your way south on foot. The main car park is near the Kailasa Temple, in the middle of your route. Guides are available if desired. The Ellora Caves are closed on Tuesday, so plan your visit accordingly.

Daulatabad Fortress

This fortress can be seen right off the road on the way to the Ajanta Caves. Since the Ajanta caves are closer to Aurangabad, it’s probably best to visit this Fortress on the same day as the Ajanta caves. The Fortress dates back to the 1100’s and was continually developed over the next several centuries.

One of the gated entrances to Daulatabad Fortress.

A minaret at Daulatabad Fortress.

A deep moat – another defensive feature inside the Fortress.

One of the most fun things we did was to go through a literal “bat cave” on the way to the top. This is a long tunnel (perhaps 50 yards or more length) that is completely dark (bring a flashlight) and the thought of knowing that there are thousands (no joke) of bats hanging right over your head was an experience!

The entrance to the “dark passage” which is long, winding and full of bats. It was purposely designed to confuse enemies seeking to take the fort.

A few of the bats visible just inside the entrance to the dark passage.

Bring a hat unless you want to take a chance on getting bat dung in your hair! You definitely hear the thousands of bats and near the entrance you can see them in the little light that is available. This tunnel is not for the faint of heart.The Fortress covers a huge area and can be best appreciated from climbing up to the top structure that sits on the highest point encircled by the walls – the walls spread out in each direction for miles.

After surviving the dark passage – we’re hiking up to the top of the Fortress. Some of the extensive walls and defensive fortifications are visible in this image.

Reference: Lonely Planet Guide to India.

The World Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora Caves – Part I

Although we didn’t know it at the time, we saved some of the best sights in India for the last part of our trip. From the desert city of Jaisalmer we drove back to Jodhpur and then flew to Aurangabad (via an overnight connection in Mumbai). Aurangabad is about 217 miles northeast of Mumbai.

Aurangabad is the gateway to the world-renowned Ajanta and Ellora Caves – both of which are incredible ancient temple complexes.

A road scene on our way to Ajanta.

The two temple complexes are very different. The Ajanta Caves are largely carved INTO rock, the Ellora Temples are carved OUT OF rock.

A view of the path to the Ajanta Caves – you can see how they are carved into the rock face. Some entrances are more elaborately carved than others.

This post will focus on the Ajanta Caves, which were part of a Buddhist monastery complex. The oldest caves date back to the 2^nd century BC, and additional ones continued to be hewn out of the rock until the 6^th century AD.

My mother-in-law getting a ride from porters up to the caves.

When the temples at Ellora were emerging from the rock, Ajanta began to decline and was eventually forgotten until the 1800’s when it was discovered by chance by a British hunting party. The paintings (actually temperas, which use pigment with a binding substance like egg yolks) are amazing, but are mostly kept in very low illumination to keep them from fading and being further destroyed.

An example of the cave paintings.

There are about 30 caves, most of which are accessible, they are numbered and are more or less in order as you visit them. We visited about 10 of the caves. There are plaques (in English) outside each cave that provide some information, and then you are free to wander inside.

An example of the plaques outside each cave.

Interior view of Cave #1 with its tempera decorations. Amazing to think that these paintings are almost 2,000 years old.

Interior view of Cave #2.

A large Buddha in Cave #6.

Exterior view of Cave #17.

The ‘Sleeping Buddha’ in Cave #26.

The incredible interior of Cave #26. Remember, all this was carved out of solid rock.

One other view in Cave #26.

Cave #24 – unfinished, giving a feel for the work required to carve just one of these beautiful temples.

In some caves there are guards present, to ward off flash photographs and to ensure the safety of the old paintings. The caves are in a horseshoe shape around a bend in a river. To get an overlook of the area, hike up to the viewing point at the bend of the river.

A view of some of the Ajanta caves from the hill above the river. Similar to the view the British hunting party would have seen.

You’ll also see some waterfalls and lakes in the distance. What a stunning setting for the Ajanta Caves!

Practical Information: We hired a taxi to take us to the Ajanta Caves for the day. The driver waited patiently for us and returned us to our hotel that afternoon. The cost was about $20 US. The Ajanta Caves are about 105 km (60 miles) north of Aurangabad and the Ellora Caves are only about 30 km (18 miles) north of Aurangabad. Both sights could probably be visited in one very long day; however, to allow sufficient time, we visited them separately on two consecutive days. We were able to combine a visit Daulatabad Fortress the same day as the Ellora Caves, which was well worth the stop (I will cover both of these locations in my next post).

Jaisalmer – A Desert Mirage in Western India

A view of the walls and towers of Jaisalmer Fort.

From Jodhpur we drove to Jaisalmer, a city in the Thar Desert near the Pakistani border, about 177 miles (285 km) from Jodhpur. The old part of Jaisalmer is contained within the extensive walls of the fort that sits on a hill, rising above the desert. It has a different feel than other parts of India, due to the desert location. The ancient fort city was founded back in 1156 and is still inhabited by 3,000 people. Jaisalmer had a strategic position in the 16th century, it was on the camel train routes between India and Central Asia. The fort city has narrow alleyways, with apartments, temples and shops practically stacked on top of each other.

Entering Jaisalmer Fort through a succession of four gates on the northeastern side,

There’s a lot to do in this desert fortified city, here are the primary things we visited:

Jain Temples

There are a number of Jain Temples within the fort. They take advantage of every inch of space within such a confined area. (Practical tip: Since you cannot wear shoes in the temples, bring your own “slipper socks” – otherwise your bare feet will get quite dirty).

Chandraprabhu Temple. This temple was built in 1509 and has many intricately sculpted pillars. It is small, with a couple circular levels and rotunda ceiling.

Interior view of Chandraprabhu Jain Temple.

Rikhabdev Temple. Like many structures within the fort, space is tight around this temple. Take the time to soak in the beautiful intricate carvings and shrines. This temple and the one below also date from the 16th century.

The narrow confines of the Rikhabdev Jain Temple.

Parasnath Temple. Another Jain Temple in the fort city is Parasnath. There are various interesting shrines made of various materials (including metal) and an underground library with ancient manuscripts, all tucked away in the corners and below the structure – a bit like a maze.

The magnificent entrance to the Parasnath Jain Temple.

Wandering the Fort City. There are some great restaurants and shops hidden in the nooks and crannies of the alleyways of the old fort city. The vendors are friendly and we purchased some excellent paintings of desert scenes from one artist.

One of the narrow streets in the fort city.

The Fort Palace. Just inside the northeastern gates is the Fort Palace. It was the home of the rulers of Jaisalmer and contains some beautifully restored 18th century rooms.

This is the Jaisalmer Fort Palace – it is worth touring, not only for the interior views but also the views of the old fort city from its upper levels.

A bedroom in the Fort Palace.

View of the fortified city from the Palace.

Kothari Haveli. In the fort city and on the northern perimeter there are several well preserved 19th century Havelis (rich merchant homes). We visited one of them. The family who lived here gained their fortune in brocade and jewelry. An audio guide and signage in the rooms provide a good understanding of life in the 19th century for the upper class.

The internal courtyard of Kothari’s Patwa-Haveli Museum.

One of the richly decorated rooms in the Haveli.

Bada (or Bara) Cenotaphs. Just 6 km outside of Jaisalmer are a series of royal cenotaphs or memorials. There is a great view to be had of Jaisalmer fort as you drive back towards the city from here. Very few tourists visit these cenotaphs, which are slowly crumbling into the surrounding sand.

Just outside the city are the Bada Bagh Cenotaphs. These are memorials to the royal families of Jaisalmer.

Gadisagar Lake. This lake, on the outskirts of Jaisalmer, was the city’s main water supply hundreds of years ago. It has some interesting ruins around the shores and in the lake. The lake stands out as a refreshing spot in this dry desert landscape.

A view of Gadisagar Lake.

Thar Desert. Just about 20 miles (30 km) south of Jaisalmer are some accessible dunes of the Thar Desert. We spent an evening out in the desert riding camels, enjoying the sunset view and a dinner with a dancing show.

Women gathering water at a well in the desert – almost a biblical scene of life in the desert.

Robyn giving her camel a rest.

Jodhpur, India – Home of the Colossal Mehrangarh Fort

From Udaipur (via Ranakpur and Kumbahlgarh) we visited the large Rajasthan city of Jodhpur, about 198 miles (319 km) distant. For a map of locations visited in India, click here.

The huge Mehrangarh Fort dominates the landscape for many miles.

One of the main sites in Jodhpur is the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, sitting on a prominent hill dominating the sprawling city which has seen tremendous growth in the last decade. The fort was built around 1460. The thick, high walls (over 100 feet) of the fort make it an imposing structure and it must have been a very intimidating sight for potential invading armies 500 years ago. There are miles of old walls extending around the area in every direction.

One of the gates leading into the fortress.

Cannonball pockmarks from the 1800’s can be seen on this bastion.

The fort dates from the 16th century, and contains palace rooms with numerous intricate lattice stone carvings; ladies of the court could view the activities of the fort’s daily life without being seen.

The intricate lattice stone work can be seen in this photo.

The fort is now a museum containing various displays in the rooms (such as a collection of highly decorated palanquins and paintings as well as a collection of arms) and period furniture.

One of the palanquins on display.

Display of daggers and other formidable weapons.

Interior of the Phool Mahal at Mehrangarh fort.

North side of the fortress, with several gates leading up into the main area.

An audio guide provides a good overview of the fort. On the north side, just outside the main gate are some beautiful gardens that are worth a vist. Jodhpur is known as the blue city. The city’s founder decreed that the homes surrounding the fortress be painted blue, but no one seems to know why blue was chosen. A number of homes near the fort still retain the blue hue.

The blue buildings near the fort’s north side.

Other Sights in Jodhpur

Jaswant Thada. Close to Mehrangarh fort is the beautiful Jaswant Thada, a white marble memorial to Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. There are nice views of the fort from this location. It was built in 1899.

A view of the Jaswant Thada.

Mandore. This area was the original capital of the local Marwar Kingdom until the 1400’s. This small city contains beautiful temples, tombs, and gardens. It is an area that does not see a lot of tourists, but we found it quite fascinating.

A view of Mandore with the shrines, temples and gardens.

Inside one of Mandore’s temples.

One of the Hindu shrines in Mandore.

Clock Tower. This is a landmark in the older part of the city. During the day there are numerous market stalls selling all kinds of food and other goods.

A view of the Clock Tower at night.

Markets near the Clock Tower.

Our hotel in Jodhpur, the Pal Haveli Inn. It has a very peaceful and quiet courtyard inside, a respite from the chaos of the city.

Our hotel (above) was in an excellent location, in the heart of the old city next to the Clock Tower and square. From the peaceful courtyard of our hotel you are immediately plunged into this market area and feel the ‘real’ India. The hotel had a rooftop restaurant that overlooked the fort for a lovely night view.

A view of Mehrangarh Fort from our hotel rooftop restaurant.

Ranakpur – One of the Most Outstanding Jain Temples in India

A view of Ranakpur from the entrance walkway.

In my humble opinion there are three temples that are “must sees” in India: The Golden Temple (of the Sikh religion) in Amritsar (in the very north of India), the Mount Abu Temple complex (Jain religion and not too far from Ranakpur as the crow flies but quite a long drive via road) and Ranakpur Temple (also Jain).

Another view of the entrance to Ranakpur.

Unfortunately due to the vast distances it’s difficult to see all three temples in a single trip. We at least were able to visit one of them. We were traveling from Udaipur to Jodhpur and made two stops during the day’s drive, Kumbahlgarh Fortress and Ranakpur. The two sights are about 50 km (31 miles) apart by road. From Ranakpur it’s about 170 km (105 miles) to Jodhpur and 75 km (47 miles) to Udaipur.

Ranakpur Temple leaves one almost speechless. It’s difficult to truly convey its beauty in either words or images.

Interior view and the most holy part of the temple. Only Jains can enter the sanctuary (straight ahead in the photo).

The temple was built in the 15^th century and is huge. It contains 29 halls, 80 domes and 1444 individually carved columns. The detailed carvings are astonishing – intricate designs in beautiful white marble.

A view of one of the many halls in the temple. Note the column carvings.

An elephant carving in Ranakpur.

Detail of one of the dome’s carvings.

Robyn with a carving of the first Jain teacher (or tirthankar) Adinath, to whom the whole temple is dedicated.

The Jain religion is fascinating and would require a whole separate discussion. It is one of the many religions found in India, and its followers are extremely devout. We saw many Jain pilgrims walking on the side of the road and our driver explained that they walk for hundreds of kilometers with few if any personal belongings. They wear a covering over their mouths so as not to destroy life by accidentally inhaling an insect.

Other Information:

With your Ranakpur entrance fee you’re given a handset and headset that provides an audio tour of the temple with numbered stations to guide you through this amazing complex.

For a better view of the temple, hike up the nearby hills.

Ranakpur as viewed from a nearby hill. The vast size becomes more apparent from this angle.

You will also see some other temples around the vicinity.

Other small temples near Ranakpur.

Ranakpur is located in the center of the Kumbahlgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, and we had monkeys jumping all over our van as we drove up the mountain road to the temple! There are leopards, wolves, and many other forms of wildlife nearby.

Monkeys jumping on our car as we drove up to Ranakpur!

Kumbahlgarh Fortress – One of Rajasthan’s Greatest Forts

On our way from Udaipur to Jodhpur, India there are at least two major sights definitely worth visiting, Kumbahlgarh Fortress and the incredible Ranakpur Jain Temple (I will review the Ranakpur Temple in a separate post). Kumbahlgarh is about 80 km (50 miles) north of Udaipur, and somewhat remote – the roads got narrower as we went (barely one lane wide) and you had the feeling that the road might come to an end and that we’d be hiking before long. You are definitely in the countryside!

Approaching Kumbahlgarh fortress.

As we rounded the corner on a winding hillside, there it was in front of us, an imposing sight on a high hilltop (1,100 meters or 3,600 feet altitude). Even though the fortress is remote, it gets its share of visitors from Jodhpur and Udaipur, due to its significance and well-maintained structures. On the day we visited, we were lucky, we pretty much had the fortress to ourselves.

One of several gateways as you climb to the Kumbahlgarh castle.

The castle within Kumbahlgarh fortress.

Kumbahlgarh was built from 1443 – 1458, on the site of an earlier fortress and some of the ruins here date back to the 2^nd century BC. It has a commanding view of the countryside and is surrounded by 12 km (7.5 miles) of massive walls that are in some places wide enough for 8 horses to ride abreast.

A view of Kumbahlgarh’s massive and imposing walls from the outside.

A view of Kumbahlgarh’s walls and the village inside.

It would take about 4 hours just to walk all the way around the thick walls and you could spend another half day wandering around the enclosed hilly area and visiting the many outlying structures, 360 in total. There is also small living village inside the main fortress.

The Vedi Temple – built in 1457 for performing rituals after the completion of the fort.

The Hindu Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, built in 1458.

If you like stunning old fortresses, Kumbahlgarh should be on your list!

Around Udaipur, India

There are several sights near Udaipur that should be on your list. We had a car and driver at our disposal which made the below locations easy to visit in a day trip from Udaipur.

Monsoon Palace (Sajjan Garh). For a great view of Udaipur and Lake Pichola, go to the Monsoon Palace, located on a hilltop about 4 miles west of the city. The palace dates to the 19^th century and was originally an astronomical observation post and then became a hunting lodge.

A view of Udaipur and Lake Pichola from the Monsoon Palace.

The Monsoon Palace – a good place to be during the monsoons – no chance of flooding!

Interior view of the Monsoon Palace.

A view looking west from the upper floor balcony of the Monsoon Palace.

There isn’t a lot to see in the interior but the views are terrific.

Eklingji Temples. This is a busy complex of 108 Hindu temples and shrines dedicated to the Lord Shiva right in the heart of Eklingji (also known as the town of Kailashpuri), just 14 miles north of Udaipur. The main temple dates from the 16^th century. Officially no pictures are allowed inside, but I managed to get a few.

Women purchasing flower offerings prior to entering the Eklingji temple complex.

Entering the Eklingji temple complex with worshippers.

Detail of the carvings on the main temple (16th century).

Another view of the Eklingji temple complex.

I noticed that local postcards show a great rooftop view of the complex, but I couldn’t see how to get a picture from above. It is a great place to wander around and observe the local worship rites. No shoes are allowed inside and your feet will get dirty! Take some wet wipes to wash up afterwards.

Saas-Bahu Temples. We loved these beautiful Hindu temples and had this peaceful, green, rural site to ourselves. They are a short distance from Eklingji above. The temples are dedicated to Vishnu, a Hindu god. They are in excellent condition, being well preserved from the 11^th century.

Some of the intricate carving work at the Saas-Bahu temples.

View of the Saas-Bahu temples.

Another view of one of the Saas-Bahu temples.

Interior temple view.

The temples and the nearby small lake.

There is a small lake nearby that has some partially submerged temples as well. I should have brought my mask and snorkel. A wonderful stop.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers