On our way back to Madrid via an overnight stop in Cuenca, we visited Segóbriga, an archaeological park with Roman-era ruins. The earliest evidence of civilization here dates to the 5th century BCE. Segóbriga came under Roman rule in the 2nd century BCE.
Segóbriga is about 79 km (49 miles) west of Cuenca and 112 km (70 miles) southeast of Madrid.
Segóbriga was an important Roman city, it produced agricultural products, livestock and through mining, ingredients used in the making of translucent plaster. Life was hard here, with 20% of the population dying before the age of 10, and 70% dying by the age of 40. The greater part of the population were freedmen and slaves, many having come to Segóbriga from other conquered regions of the Roman empire, especially Greece. Texts found in Narbonne, France refer to trading partners in Segóbriga, showing its economic influence throughout the broader region.
Most of what remains today are structures from the 1st Century AD, during the time of Augustus. Specific features include a large amphitheater that could hold 5,500; a theater, baths, and a forum in addition to the remnants of some homes. A few images of the sights are shown below.
On the trail leading to the ruins is this 2nd century tombstone monument to Lucunda, a young female slave who died at the age of 16. The relief image is of her playing a zither. She must have been pretty important to someone to warrant such a fine tombstone.
View of the large amphitheater and a corridor leading to the seating areas.Unfortunately much of the original building’s stone was used in the 16th and 17th centuries as construction material for a monastery.View of the theater and nearby forum – the center of cultural life in the city.Views of the baths. The image on the right shows part of the water drainage system.Other views of stones with Latin inscriptions, foundations of small houses or shops, and a well-preserved mosaic floor (all original except for the very center of the mosaic) in one of the grand villas.
At the entrance to the archaeological site is a small and interesting museum with good information on the history of Segóbriga.
In addition to the above, there are remnants of a necropolis, a circus, and other elements of urbanization (other roads, drainage systems, etc.) scattered around this large site.
Necropolis at Segóbriga.
If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by! Due to its somewhat isolated setting, Segóbriga does not receive a lot of visitors, even though it’s not too far from Madrid.
Mérida is a bit of a well-kept secret from tourists and yet it has some amazing Roman and Moorish ruins. The town was founded by Augustus in 25 BC and was known as Augustus Emerita. Today, it’s a relatively small city (population of about 60,000) that feels smaller since much of the main town is walkable and most of the main sights are within the central part of the city. We were fortunate to find a lovely apartment just a block or so away from the main Roman ruins (we visited in March, and had most of the sights to ourselves). Check out this post for a map of Spain reference.
The Roman Theater in Mérida, still in use for classical drama.
Another view of the Roman Theater.
Detail of the Corinthian columns in the Roman Theater.
An entrance to the Amphitheater.
The Roman Amphitheater in Mérida, which sits next to the Theater.
Casa del Anfiteatro
Also next to the Roman Theater and Amphitheater is the Casa del Anfiteatro, which provides a glimpse into life of the Roman nobility. Baths, highly sophisticated plumbing systems, beautiful mosaics, and burial chambers are all on display at this excavated site.
Roman baths – heating systemRoman water system and tunnelsThe main residence at Casa del AnfiteatroOne of the well-preserved mosaics of the Casa del Anfiteatro.Burial chamberThe Casa del Anfiteatro (above) is a really interesting sight with informative signs (including English) everywhere.
The Temple of Diana (1st Century AD) was in the center of the Roman town of Augustus Emerita, about a ten-minute walk from the Theater and Amphitheater.
Other Roman Ruins Around Town
There are other Roman Ruins all over town just waiting to be explored.
Entrance to the TheaterArch of TrajanForum
Roman Bridge (Puente de Guadiana)
Alcazaba
One of the most fascinating sights in Mérida is the Alcazaba, one of Spain’s oldest Moorish buildings (AD 835), built over Roman ruins and right next to the Roman bridge (above). There are interpretive signs to help explain what life was like in the fortress.
Images of the walls, roads and structures found in the Alcazaba.Layers upon layers of history.
This tunnel leads down to a still-functioning cistern in the Alcazaba.
Cistern in the Alcazaba – this cistern was part of a sophisticated plumbing system that brought water into the Alcazaba from the nearby river.
Los Milagros Aqueduct
Just outside central Mérida is Los Milagros Aqueduct, another reminder of Roman engineering skills and influence in this part of Spain. It dates from the 1st century AD and is part of a large park on the outskirts of Mérida.
This huge aqueduct is about a 20 minute walk from the Alcazaba.
Practical Matters
You can purchase a “Roman Ruins Circuit Ticket” for 16 Euro per person (as of March 2022) at the Theater which will get you into all the main sights. Well worth it. Our apartment, shown below, was fantastic – a very nice and accommodating owner, 3 bedrooms, 3 baths, well-equipped kitchen and right in the heart of town. However, as the owner says in his instructions, don’t follow Apple or Google Maps for the address – they took us to a dead-end street right below the apartment and we had to go up a different street to get to the apartment (we read his instructions afterwards!).
Our apartment was in a perfect location (3 floors with a garage (where the “AT” sign is) – “Casa Museo”) – right next to the Museum of Roman Art and the Roman Theater(all located to the right in this photo).
The Independent Tourist 