Sardinia

Gulf of Orosei – Don’t Miss this Boat Tour in Sardinia

On our last full day in Sardinia, Italy we decided to take a small boat tour along the eastern coastline, specially the Gulf of Orosei. All of Sardinia was amazing, but this day-trip was icing on the cake. The coastline is amazing – towering cliffs and some of the prettiest beaches and water anywhere on the planet.

This maps show the general regions we visited in Sardinia. The Gulf of Orosei is on the central east coast.

We stayed two nights in the small town of Santa Maria Navarrese, a perfect spot from which to take the boat tour and a lovely place to visit in itself. Our visit was in late September and early October, after the summer crowds were gone but yet still warm enough for boating and swimming.

A view of Santa Maria Navarrese’s own beach, right next to the small town.

Below are a few of the images captured during our full-day boat trip. Our boat held about 10 people, which was perfect. We visited a few secluded sea caves and coves before visiting some of the more popular beach and swim stops.

One of the postcard images of Sardinia, Cala Goloritzè. You can take a pretty steep and long hike down to the beach, but we opted for the boat tour to get this view. The boats do not land on the beach (I believe they are forbidden to do so), but do allow time to swim in the area.

We stopped by Cala Goloritzè again in the afternoon for a swim, on our way back to Santa Maria Navarrese. I cannot adequately describe the beauty of the turquoise water.

A view of Cala Marilou, one of my favorite stops along the Gulf of Orosei. What made it a favorite is that there are several beaches and coves to explore, such as shown below.

Another part of Cala Marilou, a small cove of stunning cliffs and beautiful water.

A view of Cala Luna, we stopped here over lunch time. There is a small bar and cafe behind the beach area.

A large cave on the beach at Cala Luna – a great place to get out of the sunshine if needed!

Visiting Nora: A Roman Treasure on Sardinia’s South Coast

The Nora Archeological Site is only about 45 minutes (48 km or 25 miles) west of Cagliari and makes a nice half-day trip, whether you are staying in town or on a one-day visit with a cruise ship. The origins of the settlement date back to Phoenician times around the 8th century B.C. The city flourished for over four hundred years starting during the first and second centuries B.C. during the Roman age. It must have been quite wealthy due to its ideal position on the coast of Sardinia, perfect for trading. The use of that wealth is demonstrated by the extensive mosaic floors that can still be seen as part of homes and public areas.

The ancient Roman road leading into Nora is overlooked by the 16th-century Torre del Coltellazzo.
The ruins of the 1st century A.D. theater at Nora.

The large cauldrons may have been used for storage, making of wine, washing or perhaps other uses.

Nora, along with Tharros are worthwhile archeological sites to see during your visit to Sardinia. So take a break from the beautiful beaches and learn something about Sardinia’s fascinating cultural history.

Villasimius – One of My Top Destinations in Sardinia

Villasimius is one of my top three locations for tourists in Sardinia, Italy (the other two would be the Gulf of Orosei, which I will write about shortly) and the La Maddalena Archipelago which you can learn about here. Villasimius is about an hour by car (62 km) southeast of Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital.

Villasimius is at the very southeast tip of Sardinia.

There are around 20 fantastic beaches near Villasimius, plus there is a golf course nearby and a number of vacation rental options in the area.

Main street in Villasimius.

We stayed in a little villa just outside of town. The landlord met us in town and led us out to the villa. Even though you are only 62 km from Cagliari, this part of the island is pretty rural and quiet.

The courtyard and pool at our villa in Villasimius. Breakfast was served on the patio (left side of photo).
RV’s are a popular option in Sardinia too. This RV park was just outside Villasimius.

Villasimius Beaches

We visited a few beaches during our two-night stay. It would have been easy to spend a week here.

After a hard day at the beach, there was nothing like a delicious dessert crepe in the town of Villasimius to end another perfect day!

Top Sights to Explore Around Oristano, Sardinia

Oristano is not likely to be on the main tourist route in Sardinia, Italy especially if time is limited. However, if you have the time, you should definitely check it out. There is a lot to do in this region of Sardinia. Here are the main sights we visited. In addition to the sights listed below, there are ancient Nuragic sites not far from here. For a map of Sardinia and to learn more about these sites, see my post here.

Is Aruttas Beach

This beach on the Sinis peninsula is about 22 km (13 miles) from Oristano and one of the region’s most famous. There is a large parking lot and a refreshment stand near the beach. The quartz sand on this beach is amazing, I wish I had taken a close-up of it – it looks like translucent rice. Just another perfect beach in Sardinia! As with all beaches in Sardinia, it is a crime to remove the sand – be sure to leave the sand where it belongs on the beach for others to enjoy!

Tharros Roman Archeological Site

Tharros was occupied for nearly 2,000 years, from the 8th century BC to about 1050 AD. It sits near the end of the Sinis Peninsula, and it’s a spectacular setting.

A view of the ruins of Tharros and the late 15th-century San Giovanni Tower, which you can climb for a small additional fee.

This gorgeous beach is a stone’s throw from Tharros. Roman ruins, a 15th- century Spanish Tower and beautiful beach – what more could you ask for?!

Fordongianus Roman Archeological Site

The water still runs warm from the natural springs at the 1st century AD Fordongianus Roman Baths. This site is about 25 km (14 miles) northeast of Oristano. We stopped by on our way into Oristano, but we arrived during siesta time so we had to settle for looking at the Baths through a wire fence, which actually offered some pretty good views. There is a fee to visit the Baths.

Just outside Fordongianus is this pretty 12th & 13th century Romanesque church, dedicated to San Lussorio, who was martyred by the Emperor Diocletian in 304 AD.

San Giovanni di Sinis Church

This interesting little church is right near the entrance to the Tharros archeological site. It is one of the two oldest churches in Sardinia, originally dating back to the 6th century – it still retains some of its Byzantine characteristics, such as the red roof. The present structure dates from the 9th and 11 centuries. The church sits in an ancient burial area. The church was free to enter and was definitely worth a stop.

San Giovanni di Sinis Church.

San Salvatore

San Salvatore, also close to Tharros, is a spaghetti-western filmset from the 1960’s. It has the feel of a old western U.S. ghost town. The town opens its dwellings’ doors during September each year to house pilgrims for the Festa di San Salvatore, a celebration focused on the village’s small church, which sits over the ruins of a Nuragic period (~1,500 BC) vault. It looked to us like there might be a few permanent residents here, we saw some homes that looked lived in.

Oristano Town

Oristano seemed to us to be a pretty quiet town, without fewer tourists compared to other locations in Sardinia, even though there is much for the tourist to see in the vicinity. We enjoyed walking the streets in the evening without any throngs of tourists. It is a perfect place to call “home” during your stay in this part of Sardinia.

The 13th-century Torre di Mariano II was Oristano’s nothern gate, one of the few remains of the city’s medieval defenses.

Bosa, Sardinia – A Great Day Trip from Alghero

About one hour south of Alghero by car (45 km or 28 miles) is the town of Bosa, home to Sardinia’s only navigable river (the Temo River). We visited Bosa as a day trip from Alghero and we made it part of an interesting loop drive – visiting Basilica della Santissima Trinità di Saccargia on the way (see below) and Nuraghe Santu Antine. It’s possible to visit all three sights in one day if you get going early from Alghero. (For a general map of the regions we visited in Sardinia, click here).

Bosa is an ancient town, it was established by the Phoenicians and continued to grow under the Romans. It’s easy to see why, Bosa is an ideal port location – close to the coast and at the mouth of the Temo River.

View of Bosa and its 13th century castle as seen from our drive into town.

Malaspina Castle

One of the main sights in Bosa is Malaspina Castle. You can drive up to the castle and park just below it. Even then, you have a steep walk up into the Castle. There is not much left of the Castle other than the walls (which you can walk), a few towers (which you can climb) and the 14th century Chiesa di Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos, which has some lovely frescoes.

14th century frescoes of Saints in the Chiesa di Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos, within the walls of Malaspina Castle.

A postcard view of Bosa with the Malaspina Castle in the distance, the old town across the river, and Ponte Vecchio spanning the Temo River. We parked for free near this spot, just a short walk from the old town.

St. Peter’s Church

Just outside Bosa along the south shore of the Temo River is St. Peter’s Church, which dates from the second half of the 11th century. The Church can be visited, but was closed at the time of our visit. There is information posted about the Church near the entrance.

On the Drive to Bosa: Basilica della Santissima Trinità di Saccargia

The Church of the Holy Trinity Saccargia is about a 40-minute drive (50 km or 31 miles) from Alghero. It is well worth the “detour” to visit this fascinating 12th century Pisan-style basilica on the way to Bosa. The abbey was built on the site of a pre-existing monastery, of which there are some scant ruins.

About 20 minutes south of The Church of the Holy Trinity Saccargia is the ancient archeological site of Nuraghe Santu Antine, also a very worthwhile stop before turning southwest on your drive towards Bosa. Since I covered our visits to Sardinia’s ancient Nuraghe in another post, I won’t comment further on it here.

After our visit to Bosa, we drove north along the west coast of Sardinia back to Alghero. It was a scenic, beautiful drive and the perfect end to another perfect day in Sardinia.

One of My Favorite Corners of Sardinia

La Pelosa Beach

The island of Sardinia, Italy has so many lovely beaches it’s difficult to narrow down the list of “best beaches” but one that would have to be near the top is La Pelosa, near Stintino on the north west coast of Sardinia. This beach is so popular that you need to make reservations to visit it during the busy season (May – October). The reservations are not expensive nor difficult. To my knowledge, this is the only beach in Sardinia that requires a reservation. When you see it, you will understand why it is so popular.

La Pelosa Beach, with its signature 16th century Aragonese Tower overlooking this beautiful bay.

One of the boardwalks leading down to La Pelosa Beach.

There is paid parking along the street facing the beach – be sure to pay – you don’t want to get back to your parking spot after a lovely day at the beach and find your vehicle has been towed away! I recommend getting here early in the morning or later in the afternoon, not only will the beach be a little less busy, but convenient parking will be more plentiful too. We visited in early October, after an overnight stop in Castelsardo. The water was still warm and the beach was fairly busy, but it did not feel overcrowded at all. To check in at the beach, there is a kiosk where you get a wristband after showing your reservations on your phone or a hardcopy. Be sure to bring towel mats as well, to avoid taking home the precious sand – Sardinia is focused on keeping their beautiful sand where it belongs – on the beach.

Alghero

Less than an hour south of La Pelosa Beach is Alghero. Alghero was probably my favorite town in Sardinia. The combination of its magnificent setting and harbor, a beautiful old town with medieval towers and walls, and lively evening scene made this a perfect spot to stay for a few nights. We rented a lovely apartment that was just a ten minute walk from the old town.

A view of Alghero’s Old Town from the Harbor.

Alghero’s lively Old Town.
A great view of Alghero’s Old Town walls and towers.

Castelsardo, Sardinia – A Great Stop along Sardinia’s North Coast between Costa Esmeralda and Alghero

Castelsardo is a very picturesque little town on the north coast of Sardinia and worth an overnight stop if convenient in your travels, or a least a short visit on your way to other destinations. For us, we stopped here overnight on our way to the magnificent beach at La Pelosa (near Stintino, on the very northwest tip of Sardinia) and then on to Alghero.

Castello dei Doria

The 13th century castle at the top of the hill in Castelsardo is named after the Genoese family who was entrusted with its care. It is open to visitors and there are a few rooms you can visit with various displays, including the Museum of Mediterranean Interweaving.

A view from the top of Castello dei Doria.

Street Wandering

As with any small European town, it is fun to just wander the narrow, steep streets. Our hotel was on one of these little streets. There was plenty of car parking outside the old town on the sea side of Castelsardo.

View of Castelsardo’s 16th century Cathedral, with a magnificent view of the Mediterranean Sea and Sardinian coast line in the distance.
I loved this image of an old 1st story floor/ceiling, in a visitor’s center near the Castle. I can’t imagine trying to build anything that would be square and level in those days!
Some of the other 16th buildings near the Cathedral in Castelsardo’s old town.

Elephant Rock

Just off a road leading into Castelsardo from the east is this interesting volcanic rock formation, aptly named “Elephant Rock”. What is even more interesting is that within this rock there are two pre-nuragic tombs, dating to a time before Sardinia’s Nuraghe were built, likely 5,000 or more years ago. We just pulled off the side of the road to take a look.

Just outside of Castelsardo is this interesting volcanic rock containing ancient tombs, aptly name “Elephant Rock”.
Don’t miss beautiful Castelsardo if you have the chance!

Explore Sardinia’s Ancient Nuraghe: A Bronze Age Adventure

If you enjoy archeology, Sardinia, Italy should be high on your list of places to visit. There are a number of Bronze Age (approximately 1900 BC to 730 BC) settlements throughout the island. The main towers of these settlements are called Nuraghe (essentially ancient towers/castles surrounded by small villages) and they are unique to Sardinia. According to Wikipedia, more than 7,000 of these structures have been found on the island. Very little is known about the people who inhabited these structures or what they used these structures for.

Amazingly, a number of Nuraghe are in an excellent state of preservation and can be visited, including the interiors. The stone work is quite incredible and standing in these 3,000 year-old rooms and climbing the stairways of these towers was a fun experience, not unlike visiting the ancient pyramids of Egypt. Most sites allow you to visit the structures on your own, the only one that required a guide was Su Nuraxi Barumini, one the largest of these settlements in Sardinia. As with many ancient archeological sites, the builders in Sardinia understood much about astronomy and were close observers of the night sky.

The approximate location of the Nuraghe sites we visited are shown on the map of Sardinia above.

We visited 5 Nuraghe sites, which provided a nice sampling of Sardinia’s rich Bronze Age history.

Below is a brief overview of the sites we visited.

Nuraghe la Prisgiona & Coddu Vecchiu

Within walking distance of Nuraghe la Prisgiona is Coddu Vecchiu, called the Giants Tomb. The tomb is from the same era and part of the Nuraghic civilization, about 1800 BC.

Nuraghe Majori – Complete with Bats!

Nuraghe Santu Antine

A view of Nuraghe Santu Antine from the exterior. It doesn’t look that impressive or large from the exterior; however we were surprised how large and extensive the interior was once we entered.

Nuraghe Santa Cristina

Santa Cristina may have been my favorite site, perhaps because there is so much to see here. There are Nuraghe ruins, including a fascinating ancient well, and medieval-era buildings also. It has been a site used for religious purposes for centuries.

Sacred Well

View from the bottom of the well stairway.

Nuraghe

Medieval Church

Su Nuraxi di Barumini

Su Nuraxi di Barumini is one of the largest, if not the largest Nuraghe site in Sardinia. It is a World Heritage Site, and when you purchase your ticket you must join a group with a guide to visit. Our tour guide was very kind and patient, he explained the features of the site in French and English, given the mix of our small group.

In addition to the glorious beaches of Sardinia, it is certainly worth your time to visit a few of the fascinating archeological sites. Be careful in the structures. Some of the stairway stones are very slick and trust me, it’s easy to slip. Also, watch your head, many of the passageways are short and narrow. The sites we visited were well sign-posted, had parking available and are well-maintained.

A Magical Three-Day Visit to the La Maddalena Archipelago of Sardinia

From our start in Olbia and Sardinia’s Costa Esmeralda, we traveled north a short distance and took (with our rental car) the 15-minute ferry ride from Palau over to La Maddalena Island and town, which is part of the La Maddalena Archipelago, located at the very north east edge of Sardinia, Italy. We spent 3 nights on La Maddalena, which gave us enough time to see La Maddalena Island, Caprera Island (reached by bridge from La Maddalena) and then a day-trip boat tour of some of the other islands in the Archipelago. I’ll share a bit about each day below.

La Maddalena

We caught a morning ferry to La Maddalena from Palau, no reservations were needed in October and the ferries run continuously all day. A round trip ticket for car and passengers was about 40 Euro.

Upon arrival. we immediately headed for Cala Francese beach, not far from the main town and then explored a few other beaches around the island before checking into our hotel later in the afternoon. La Maddalena is not big, you could probably drive around the island in 30 minutes or less.

Cala Lunga, at the northern tip of La Maddalena.

The town was fun to explore, and many boat tours are offered from the harbor.

Caprera Island

After a wonderful day on La Maddalena, we decided to spend our second day on Caprera, an island connected to La Maddalena via a bridge. Caprera is far less populated, and largely National Park land. There are numerous beaches and hiking trails and to start our day we decided to do a hike on the north end of the island, to the Batteria de Candeo, a really interesting site.

At the north end of Caprera is the military site of Batteria de Candeo, an anti-aircraft and ship emplacement built between World War I and World Ward II. It was built from the natural rock in the area and was well camouflaged – even today it looks like part of the natural landscape except for the doorways.

There are some beaches on the south end of the island also, such as Spiaggia Due Mari, for example. We visited the south end and spent a while lounging on Spiaggia Due Mari beach after our hike, but unfortunately I did not capture a photo!

Note: I had wanted to visit Cala Coticcio beach on Caprera, one of the most famous beaches in Sardinia. The only way to visit is with a guide (they limit access to this beach to preserve its natural state). I reserved a date with the guide, but I also needed a Park pass, and for some reason this was difficult to do online, so I gave up and cancelled our visit to this particular beach. It is a fairly long hike to Cala Coticcio and if we had done that hike, we would not have had time to do the hiking discussed above. I think it’s just a trade off on how you want to spend your time. As shown above, there are other stunning beaches and sights that don’t have the limitations of Cala Coticcio.

Day Trip Boat Tour

On our final day in La Maddalena, we decided to do a 6-hour boat tour of some other islands in the La Maddalena Archipelago and we’re glad we did. Below are photos from our various stops during the boat tour. It was a perfect day.

As with every other region of Sardinia, it would be easy to spend a week or more in these islands. The water was super clear, and the beaches were beautiful. If you go to Sardinia, don’t miss La Maddalena!

Costa Smeralda – One of Many Beautiful Regions of Sardinia

We started our Sardinia vacation by flying (from Frankfurt) into Olbia on the northeast coast of Sardinia. This was a great place to begin (and end) our Sardinian adventures. Olbia is ideally situated near the famous Costa Smeralda and the La Maddalena Archipelago, as well as other costal towns, archeological sites and beaches. (See here for an overview of regions we visited in Sardinia, we toured the island in a counter-clockwise route).

Olbia

While not a major tourist destination itself, Olbia has a lovely old town and is situated on a beautiful harbor. We spent our first night here, enjoying dinner in one of the many restaurants on the main pedestrian street and browsing the vendor booths lining the harbor promenade – a very festive atmosphere.

The next morning we drove north toward Porto Cervo, the heart of Costa Smeralda, stopping at beaches along the way. Our first day started out cool, windy and slightly rainy, but by the afternoon it was warm and sunny. The weather didn’t stop us from enjoying the sights along the coast and wasn’t a factor for the rest of our trip.

Costa Smeralda

Costa Smeralda got its name and started becoming fashionable in the early 1960’s, due to development efforts led by Prince Karim Aga Khan. It’s maintained that status ever since. Our stay here was brief, given the many areas of Sardinia we wanted to visit. Below are a few images of the beautiful coastline of this region.

This sign, along the coastal road from Olbia to Porto Cervo lets you know you’re entering the fabled Costa Smeralda.
Capriccioli Beach
Spiaggia Principe, considered Sardinia’s most famous beach (although it’s only one of hundreds as beautiful), on Costa Esmarelda.
The calm, clear waters of La Celvia Beach, south of Porto Cervo.
Real pink flamingoes near San Teodoro!

As with any region of Sardinia, it would be easy to spend your whole vacation right in (or around) Costa Esmeralda. If you want to live here, be ready to open your checkbook. It’s one of the most expensive regions in Europe and given its allure, it’s easy to see why.