Mallorca & Menorca

Exploring Menorca’s Unique and Fun Coastal Towns

In addition to beautiful beaches, Menorca, Spain has some interesting and scenic towns to explore. During our short visit, we mixed in visits to the island’s towns, historic sites and beaches. The island is small and it only takes about 45 minutes by car to get from one end of the island to the other. Since the island is not large, any of these towns would be a good “home base” during your stay in Menorca. We decided to say in Cala Galdana, more of a resort area for our first time in Menorca which was also a good choice.

*Map showing the relative locations of the major towns in Mencorca.*

Ciutadella de Menorca

Ciutadella is located on the western end of Menorca and was a busier town than Mahón (discussed below), although that may have been due to the time of day we visited (early evening). Ciutadella is home to the main ferry route connecting Menorca to Mallorca. The town is ancient, dating back to the Carthaginians (~300 BC), and has a long (and at times sad) history, particularly in the 1500’s when the town came under siege by the Turks, who took the survivors and sold them into slavery in Constantinople (Istanbul).

*This windmill stands out as a primary landmark as you enter Ciutadella.*

*Street scenes in Ciutadella. There are some lovely pedestrian arcaded streets and shops and interesting architecture to be admired in Ciutadella.*

*We enjoyed a great tapas meal in Ciutadella!*

Mahón (or Maó)

Mahón is the largest town in Menorca and the island’s capital, located on the eastern edge of the island. It’s also the location of the island’s airport if you fly here. The town is quite pretty, with a lovely setting and harbor. There are some rumors that the word mayonnaise originated here! We found the town to be pretty quiet, with few tourists wandering about. Numerous boat tours are available from Mahón and perhaps most tourists were out for the day.

We had fun wandering the streets along the harbor and admiring the yachts at berth and enjoying some great gelato! Nearby are a number of prehistoric sites that may be visited.

Binibeca (or Binibeca Vell)

Binibeca is a white town on Menorca’s southeast shore that is relatively new but looks like an old fishing village! It reminded me a bit of the Greek islands. It certainly makes for a postcard view. The town was built in 1968, and is in a great location – close to Mahón and yet it feels somewhat remote. The area near Binibeca is a growing tourist spot, with many small hotels/resorts and homes popping up nearby in the years since the village was built. In addition, there are numerous beaches and coves within a short distance if you want to enjoy the warm clear water.

*View of Binebeca and its small harbor.*

*Views of Binibeca. It would be hard to find a more uniform-looking town anywhere in Europe!*

*A short walk from Binibeca will take you to some amazing coves and clear water – inviting you to stay and take a dip! We came back on another day and took advantage of these clear, warm waters.*

Fornells

Fornells is the only major town on Menorca’s north shore and would make a great home base for visiting Menorca, if you want to enjoy a quieter experience and slower pace. Unlike Binibeca, this is an authentic fishing village and it’s known for its great seafood restaurants.

*Residences and vacation homes near Fornells on Menorca’s north shore – this area had a “California coast” feel.*

*One doesn’t have to go far from Fornells to find a great beach – Cala Tirant is just a couple kilometers as the crow files from Fornells, or an 8 km (4.5 mile) drive.*

The Beaches of Menorca, Spain

Like the other Balearic Islands, Menorca, Spain is blessed with some amazingly beautiful beaches and coves. Since we were in Menorca for only 4 days, we couldn’t visit all of its glorious beaches, but we did get to swim at several and see others during our (too) short stay. Listed below (in no particular order) are beaches & coves we were able to visit.

*Primary beaches we visited are shown in red font.*

Note: Someone asked me about encounters with jellyfish in Mallorca and Menorca – there was only one place we saw any jellyfish and that was at Cala Mitjana on Menorca (described below). They were brown (not the technical name) jellyfish and harmless.

Cala Galdana

We stayed in Cala Galdana on the southern shore of Menorca–it is a lovely large cove, with a wide protected sandy beach, hotels, restaurants and tourist activity businesses nearby, a perfect spot to call home while you explore the island. The beach has numerous chairs and umbrellas for rent and the water is shallow and calm, making this a very family-friendly place to swim and enjoy the sun. Another plus of this location are the walking trails (part of the historic Cami de Cavalls) along the coast in either direction from Cala Galdana to other amazing places such as Cala Turqueta or Cala Mitjana. The trails are well signposted and point out the distance and direction of your destination (it’s a good idea to get a local island map). Make sure you are adequately prepared if you walk these trails – have plenty of water, sun protection, sturdy shoes and energy snacks.

*The Comitas Florimar hotel where we stayed in Cala Galdana. The rooms were large and had kitchen facilities.*

*Additional views of Cala Galdana’s beach area.*

*Walking along Menorca’s coastal trail (**Cami de Cavalls**).*

Cala Turqueta

This may be Menorca’s most famous beach. From Cala Galdana, it is just a few kilometers (6.4 km, or 4 miles) west by trail if you’re up for a little hike. The advantage of taking the trail to Cala Turqueta is that you avoid the parking problem. The Cala Turqueta parking area fills quickly (we arrived before 8 am and were turned away) and if you can’t get a spot you must drive back to the island’s main road and then down another road to another car park (Son Suara Beach – see below) and then hike from that car park along the coastal trail back to Cala Turqueta. I know this sounds a bit complicated, it’s because there is no coastal road connecting many of the beaches by car, you must use the main east-west road in the middle of Menorca as the main car route and then take the north-south spur roads that lead to the various beaches and coves. It’s not a huge issue, just be prepared to sometimes walk at least a couple of kilometers on the trails as noted above. The only route that connects the entire coastline is the non-motorized trail circumnavigating the island. In fact, a number of beaches can only be reached via the trail.

Bottom line, however you manage to get to Cala Turqueta, it is worth the effort!

*Cala Turqueta – get here early if you want a little quieter experience.*

*Above and below – views of Cala Turqueta, Menorca.*

Cala Mitjana

Cala Mitjana is less than 2 km (~1 mile) east of Cala Galdana via the walking trail and is very beautiful also. Since we walked, I’m not sure about the car park situation, but probably similar to Cala Turqueta – arrive early to get a spot if you need to drive here.

*Cala Mitjana – just another lovely day at the beach!*

Binibèquer Vell (Binibeca Vell)

I’ll share more about this unique town in another post, but this region of Menorca (southeast coast) has some great beaches and coves. It was one of my favorite spots on Menorca. We found this beautiful cove (below) just outside of the town of Binibeca Vell as we were exploring the area. It looked so inviting we came back another day specifically to swim here!

*A cove near Binibeca Vell – the water is so clear – bring your snorkel gear!* *There are several ladders on the cliffs making it easy to get into and out of the water.*

*Yours truly enjoying the warm, clear water near Binibeca Vell!*

Some of Menorca’s Other Beaches

There are so many stunning beaches in Menorca – below are a few others we visited during our various exploration travels.

Cala Tirant – this beach is on the north shore, near the town of Fornells. Wide, open and I’m guessing it wouldn’t feel crowded even on a busy day.

*Views of Cala Tirant, on the north shore of Menorca.*

Son Bou – this popular beach is on the southern shore of Menorca, and close to the Torre d’en Galmés prehistoric ruins if you want to mix a little culture in with your beach day. There are also some 6th century church ruins right next to the beach.

Cala des Talaier – another beautiful small cove and beach on the southern coast, between Son Saura and Cala Turqueta.

*Cala des Talaier – just off the walking path on the way to Cala Turqueta from Son Saura beach and parking area.*

Son Saura – another amazing, wide, shallow and calm beach area on the south coast of Menorca.

*Son Saura Beach, on the path from the Son Saura parking area to Cala des Talaier and Cala Turqueta.* *One really needn’t go any further than here to have a perfect beach experience!*

I hope I have convinced you that you don’t have to go to Hawaii for great beaches – the Mediterranean Sea and specifically Mallorca and Menorca are blessed with an abundance of beautiful, safe, white sandy beaches and some of the clearest, warmest water you will ever find!

Menorca’s Amazing Prehistoric Ruins

Menorca, Spain has about 1,500 prehistoric sites – a higher concentration per square kilometer than any where else in the Mediterranean Sea, this is why Menorca is known as an “open air museum”. Numerous ancient stone structures dot the island, especially the southern half. A map of many of the sites can be found here. A number of these sites have been quite well preserved, considering they’ve been around for nearly 3,000 years! The Talayotic (or Talaiotic) period (when many of these structures where built) was lasted from about 1200 B.C. to 123 B.C. (when the Roman conquest took place).

*The locations in brown font indicate the four prehistoric sites discussed below.*

While Menorca’s beaches are incredible (more on these in a future post), it’s also fun to explore other sights on the island, and we decided to visit four of these prehistoric ruins during a “day off” from the beach. These archeological sites typically charge a small fee and provide informational brochures for your visit. Why did I choose these particular sites? I just did a little research on Menorca’s prehistoric ruins and decided on these four as reasonable sampling of what can be visited relatively easily. The road signage on the island to these historical sites is quite good.

Naveta des Tudons

This ruin is on the western side of the island, not far from the city of Ciutadella. Navetas are tombs that are unique to Menorca, and are typically one to two levels high and round or elongated. Naveta des Tudons is the largest of all known Navetas on the island and is considered the oldest existing building in Europe. It dates from 1000 – 800 BC, and was in use for about 500 years. Archeologists found the remains of over 100 individuals inside. We had the site to ourselves late one afternoon.

*A view of the front of the Naveta. Note the careful stone fitting and placement work.*

*This image shows the burial ceremony and process and the layout of the interior of Naveta des Tudons.*

*These images show a side view and end view of the Naveta. Interesting stone work can be noted in both views.*

Trepucó

The settlement of Trepucó is one of the largest on the island, covering an area of around 49,240 square metres. However, what can be viewed today is only a small part of the site, dating from 1200-700 B.C. It is located near Mahón (or Maó) on the eastern side of the island.

*Other views of Trepucó, showing the domestic dwellings. Some areas were occupied into the Middle Ages, and still retain much of their original structures.*

Talatí de Dalt

This ruin is only 4 km (or about 2 miles) from the city of Mahón (or Maó) on the eastern side of Menorca. It’s about the same age as the other talaiotic ruins on the island, and reached its peak between the 4th and 2nd century B.C.

*Talatí de Dalt is interesting because there are a number of cave-like chambers and corridors to explore.*

This talayot (or talaiot) at Talatí de Dalt is representative of those found in many of Menorca’s ruins – their function is not completely understood – they may have been watchtowers, meeting places, or related to other ceremonial events.

Torre d’en Galmés

Torre d’en Galmés was probably my favorite of the Talayotic prehistoric sites we visited, due to its immense size and location. Lots of ruins to explore here. It is located in south-central Menorca, not far from Son Bou beach. It is believed that Torre d’en Galmés was a principal site and had oversight of many of the other settlements.

*I loved these hypostyle chambers with the stone roof supports. However, I’m not sure I’d want to be in one of these rooms during an earthquake!*

*Above – Other views of Torre d’en Galmés.*

*In addition to above-ground structures, there are a number of below-ground chambers in Torre d’en Galmés as shown above.*

If you get a chance and can tear yourself away from the beach for a day, don’t miss Torre d’en Galmés, or any of the other Talayotic sites on Menorca – they are the premier prehistoric ruins in the Balearic Islands, if not the entire Mediterranean Sea.

Tips for Visiting Menorca, Spain – Mallorca’s Somewhat Quieter (Yet Beautiful) Neighbor Island

When planning our trip to Spain’s Balearic Islands, we decided to visit Menorca in addition to Mallorca and I’m so glad we did! Menorca is quite different than Mallorca – much smaller in geographic size and population, with rolling hills (vs Mallorca’s mountains) and fewer, quieter roads. Yet Menorca has amazing beaches, quaint towns and other interesting sights definitely worth checking out. I will be sharing posts on all these sights in the coming weeks!

*This map shows the locations of places we visited while on Menorca. More information to come soon in future posts.*

I say “somewhat quieter” in this post’s title because even though the local population is only 1/10th of Mallorca’s (about 100,000 people live on Menorca vs. about 1 million on Mallorca), tourists (especially Europeans) have discovered Menorca and some of the most popular beaches can get pretty crowded during the summer months. You need to plan ahead (like going to the beach early (7 am) to get close parking spots or waiting until the late afternoon (5-6 pm)). That said, there are so many beach/cove options you won’t have trouble finding a spot to lay down your towel, even if it’s not where you originally planned to go.

*This gorgeous beach, Son Saura, was largely ignored as tourists walked further on the coastal trail to the more famous Cala Turqueta (we’re guilty as charged!).*

Menorca Travel Tips

Menorca is on of the three primary Balearic Islands, and only 43 nautical miles (80 km or 50 miles) from Mallorca. The other primary island is Ibiza, which is a little more geographically separated from Mallorca and Menorca (although closer to mainland Spain) and we did not visit it.

*Location of Menorca relative to Mallorca, Ibiza and mainland Spain.*

Getting There: Menorca is a short flight (about 20-30 minutes) or ferry ride from Mallorca. We flew to save time, and the flight was enjoyable because you could see a lot of the island from the flight path. You can also fly to Menorca directly from Barcelona and other locations.

Transportation: We rented a car on Menorca and this was a convenient way to get around, since we wanted to explore as much of the island as we could in 4 days. The roads are in good condition and fairly quiet, there’s not a lot of traffic. There is a bus system, but since we didn’t use it I don’t know how convenient or frequent the buses are.

Where to Stay: There are many options and we decided to stay in an apartment in the Cala Galdana area on the south coast. Besides being a beautiful location with a lovely beach, it was easy to get from Cala Galdana to almost anywhere on the island in less than an hour, including some amazing coves and beaches that are just short hikes away along a coastal trail.

*View of Cala Galdana from the pool area of the Comitas Floramar Aparments, where we stayed.*

There were a number of hotels, restaurants and shops in Cala Galdana, including various tour agencies for diving and other water-related activities. I think the best swimming beaches are on the southern coast, since they seem more protected than the north shore.

Menorca’s main towns of Ciutadella and Mao (or Mahón) are on either end of the island and seemed less tourist-oriented. However, they were both fun to explore and lovely towns. It seems that most tourists make their home base in one of several main resort locations on the south coast, except for the town of Fornells on the north shore, which has its own vibe and is a tourist hub as well. We noticed at least one campground not far from Cala Galdana.

Island Trail System: There is a trail system (Cami de Cavalls) than circumnavigates the island along the coast and provides access to many of the beaches and coves. There are signs along the trail indicating distances (in kilometers) between major beaches and towns.

*The coastal trail is shown on this map – the green route that circles the entire island on the coast. No motorized vehicles allowed on this trail system.*

We found the trails very useful. If one parking area was full, then we just parked at another accessible parking area and took the trail back to our desired beach – it may mean a slightly longer walk, but the tradeoff is enjoying the coastal scenery.

*View from the south coastal trail on the way to Cala Turqueta.*

If you want a little quieter getaway in the Mediterranean Sea, Menorca may be your spot! In future posts, I will share information on the island’s sights – beaches, towns and amazing prehistoric ruins.

Note: Featured Image is Cala Mitjana, just a few kilometers east of Cala Galdana.

Mallorca’s Magical North Coast

Our final stop in Mallorca was the north coast. We based ourselves near Alcúdia and were very happy with the location.

*Alcúdia and the various sites mentioned below are located in the northern part of Mallorca.* *The starred locations indicate our places of stay.*

The old walled town of Alcúdia is at the base of a small peninsula that divides the northern coast into the Bay of Pollença and the Bay of Alcúdia. The peninsula itself has some lovely beaches (more on this below). On the eastern side are many hotels, modern shops and busier beaches, kind of like a Miami beach area. We decided to base ourselves on the quieter western side of Alcúdia, at the PortBlue Club Pollentia Resort. The resort is right across the coastal road following the bay of Pollença and is only a couple kilometers from Alcúdia.

*The Port Blue Club Pollentia Resort & Spa pool.*

Alcúdia

Nothing like having medieval walled towns next to glorious beaches – my perfect combination! The late 13th century walled town of Alcúdia is really lovely and sits in a prime location, between two bays with picturesque coves and beaches close by. It’s no wonder this town was a target of pirates in the 16th century. You can spend the day at the beach and then wander into the old town for dinner. There is a large car park on the eastern side of the town walls.

*You can walk a good portion of Alcúdia’s walls for views of the surrounding countryside and town.*

Beaches and More Beaches

*S’illot Beach is on the peninsula near Alcudia. Its pebbles make for a clean beach experience (no sand to get trapped in your clothes or towel!) and the little island is fun to snorkel around.*

Mirador de Es Colomer

A popular thing to do in the evening before the sun sets is to take a drive past the Bay of Pollença to the very northwest corner of the island for some spectacular views of the Bay of Pollença and Formentor area. We did this on a whim one evening and really enjoyed the amazing setting and views. The road is steep and narrow – be forewarned. Parking can be a bit of challenge, but be patient and you’ll find a spot. There is a lighthouse further out on the point, but the road to it was closed during our visit.

*It’s hard to capture the height of the cliffs at Mirador de Es Colomer – it’s probably 1,000 feet straight down to the water.*

The Ruins of Pollentia – A Roman City

Just outside the walls of Alcúdia are the ruins of the Roman town of Pollentia. Pollentia was the most important Roman settlement in the Balearic Islands and was founded around 121 B.C., a strategic location for a port city. It’s definitely worth a visit.

*Views (above) of Pollentia Forum (main plaza) Ruins.*

*Left to Right: Pollentia’s theater, water drainage system and medieval-era necropolis.*

Lluch Monastery

A little further from Alcudia south and west (about 30 km or 19 miles) is the 17th century Lluch Monastery, a major pilgrimage site and important religious sanctuary in Mallorca. We visited Lluch Monastery on our way back to the Palma airport as we were leaving Mallorca. It is located in the rugged Tramuntana Mountains. As the informational image notes below, the monastery receives more than a million visitors a year!

The north coast of Mallorca really is magical – with its nice hotels, beautiful beaches, a medieval walled town, Roman city ruins, a historic pilgrimage site and dramatic coastline drive and views, I’m not sure how it gets any better than this for an independent tourist!

Three Quiet Inland Sights in Mallorca

Although most tourists to Mallorca, Spain flock to the beach or the mountains to bike on their holidays in Mallorca, there are several “off the radar” spots to visit if you’d like to spend a quieter day during your stay. These three towns and nearby sites are relatively close to each other in the north-eastern part of the island and make good short stops if your traveling from the east coast to the north coast, which is exactly what we were doing. See other posts on Mallorca here.

Manacor

If you enjoy professional tennis, you may have heard of Rafael Nadal, a former #1 ranked tennis player and winner of 22 Grand Slam Men’s Singles titles, including 14 French Open titles. Just amazing. Manacor is his home town and he has built a tennis academy there, just on the outskirts of town. We stopped by to take a look and visit the Academy store to pick up some souvenirs. The academy appeared fairly quiet while were there (September) and the facility was in the midst of expansion. If you or your children or friends are looking for some serious game improvement, this might be your place!

*There are multiple clay courts and hard courts at the academy plus dorm rooms, instruction rooms and workout areas. Not a bad place to spend a week or two brushing up on your tennis game!*

While there is more to Manacor than tennis, this was our main stop.

Petra

This little town is the birthplace of Franciscan Friar Junípero Serra, born in 1713, who made it all the way to what later became the state of California and established missions that led to the founding of the cities of San Diego and San Francisco. He represented the Catholic Church on what was known as the Portolá expedition (1769–1770).

Just outside of Petra, you can visit Bonany Monastery/Sanctuary, which sits on a hill (elevation 1,000 ft) above Petra and affords a lovely view of the island’s interior landscape. Signs from the town will lead you on the narrow road up to the monastery.

*Views of the surrounding countryside and town of Petra from Bonany Sanctuary.*

The monastery and church date to the 17th century when locals would ascend the hill to pray for rain for growing their crops, and a statue of the Virgin Mary was found on the hillside. The main church’s hours are short (10 am – 2 pm), so arrange your visit accordingly if you’d like to go inside. I believe the Sanctuary also offers some accomodations if you’d like to have some solitude during your stay on Mallorca.

*Inside the Monastery, through a viewing glass are these tiny outdoor scenes – quite interesting! Someone went to a lot of work to create these.*

Artà

Artà is a larger town than Petra but still easy to cover on foot and only 15-30 minutes from some lovely beaches on the northeastern shore of Mallorca.

Artà has a nice pedestrian street with fun and classy shops that leads towards the hill topped by the Sanctuary of San Salvador (Sant Salvador) with medieval walls surrounding it; this is one of the town’s main sights.

*The town of Artà with the Sanctuary of San Salvador dominating the hilltop.*

*The walls of Artà – including the view of the town from the top.*

*Another landmark church in Artà is The Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, dating from the 16th century (views above and below).*

*Inside The Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord they have an interesting museum, it is worth a visit.*

Ses Païsses

While exploring one of the shops in Artà, I saw a post card with a photo of some prehistoric ruins and I inquired about those ruins, and learned about Ses Païsses, a Bronze Age (approximately 900 BC) settlement, which is less than 2 km (or less than a mile) outside of Artà. This is one of the most important prehistoric sites in Mallorca and the Balearic Islands for that matter. This was an unexpected find and we enjoyed seeing this site. Ses Païsses was a prelude to what we were going to see in Menorca, which is home to a number of interesting prehistoric sites.

Artà would make a great place to call home for a night or two if you plan to visit this part of the island. We stopped here for a couple hours on our way to Alcúdia, our last stay on Mallorca.

Visiting Mallorca’s Drach Caves

One of the most well-known tourist sites in Mallorca are the Drach Caves (Cuevas del Drach, or Caves of the Dragon), located on the eastern coast in the town of Porto Cristo (see my post here for information on nearby beautiful beaches). The caves are known for having one of the largest underground lakes in the world (Lake Martel).

Drach Caves

Given the caves’ popularity as a cruise shore excursion and for other tourists on the island, it would be wise to purchase your tickets in advance here. Bring a light jacket, the air can be very cool. I highly recommend getting in line early for your appointed entry time so you can be one of the first ones into the caves for the best photos and to be one of the first to get on your boat ride at the end. You may be with 200+ other people at your tour time. We were staying in Cala D’ Or, only 28 km (17 miles) south of Porto Cristo, a convenient spot for visiting this part of Mallorca.

*The astonishing formations created over millennia in the caves.*

*Small pools of crystal-clear water in the Drach Caves.*

At the end of the walking tour of the caves, you are seated in stadium area by the underground freshwater lake (Lake Martel) – it is a spectacular setting. A boat with strings of lights appears from around a bend in the lake and live classical music is played (violin, flute & organ as I recall) as the boat sails past you in this unreal setting – kind of like “Phantom of the Opera”! Note: You are not allowed to take photos or video of the performance – they are very particular about this!

Following the performance, you have the opportunity to take a short rowboat ride to the exit path for your own “boating on the underground lake” experience. Or, if you wish, you can just walk on a path towards the exit if you’re in a hurry, since it takes a while to ferry 200-300 people by boat (there are multiple boats but each only holds about 10 people).

*The underground lake and a boat taking passengers on a ride to the exit path at the end of the tour.*

After your visit to the caves, if you want to make a day of it, there is a small cove for swimming next to the caves entrance. Bring your swimsuit (always good advice wherever you are on Mallorca!).

*This lovely cove is just a short walk from the Drach Caves parking area.*

Although the caves are very touristy, I highly recommend a visit. It’s not often you get to boat on a underground lake and watch a classical music performance in such an amazing setting.

Mallorca’s Southeast Coast – Home to Some of Its (and the World’s) Most Beautiful Beaches

After enjoying the Palma area and exploring the north/west coast of Mallorca, we moved on to our 2nd stop, Cala d’Or, a great location to explore the leeward side of Mallorca. The southeast coast is dotted with beautiful coves and beaches (I think there are over 100), many of which require a bit of a hike to get to, while others are easily accessible by car.

Alua Soul Hotel – Cala d’Or

We stayed at the Alua Soul Hotel in Cala d’Or, and we were not disappointed. The hotel property surrounds a small cove (Cala Egos, to which the public also has access) and is in a perfect location for exploring this beautiful part of Mallorca.

*Cala Egos – this is the view from our room at the Alua Soul Hotel – I think I could have stayed here forever!*

*Cala d’Or has lots of shops and restaurants, this particular shopping/restaurant area was very close to our hotel.*

Cala d’Or is a major boat harbor and tourist hub (although it did not feel all that crowded – the hotels and condos are spread out and tucked behind the various hills and coves). If you get tired of the beach, there are lots of other things to do here, such as renting ATV’s, going on fishing or sailing expeditions and many other activities to keep you and your family or friends entertained!

Mondragó Park

Near Cala d’Or is Mondrago Park (Parc natural de Mondragó). This nature park has lots of parking (fee required), wide beaches, snack vendors and restrooms. The beaches and shallow water are great for families. There are two beach areas connected by a trail (just a 5 minute walk between the two beaches). Speaking of families, let me point out that these are “European” beaches, which means you will likely encounter some topless sunbathers, as with most beaches in Mallorca (or any Mediterranean island for that matter). However, the protocol is that everyone covers up at the snack bars, going to/from the restroom, beach, etc.

*If you’re after a little more solitude, this little cove is also in *Mondragó Park*.*

Cala des Moro

This is perhaps the most famous (and beautiful?) beach and cove on Mallorca. Arrive early (like by 8 or 9 am) to enjoy a quieter beach experience and to find parking. You walk south from the parking area off the main road through a small residential neighborhood and just keep working your way to the coastline. It’s about a 20 minute walk/hike from the parking area to the beach – be prepared for a steep descent/ascent into/out of the cove. Just follow the crowd. At the top of the cove, there was an enterprising drink/snack vendor. I will say this is one of the most scenic beaches I’ve ever seen. The water is warm and the color is about the prettiest turquoise shade possible.

Other Beautiful Beaches

Further up the coast from Cala d’Or, the coves & beaches just keep on coming….here are two other examples that are near Porto Cristo, 28 km (17 miles) north of Cala d’Or and easily accessible by car (parking is next to the beach in both cases). Porto Cristo is the home of Cuevas del Drach (Drach Caves) which I will share more about in my next post!

Cala Anguila

Cala Mendia

No matter where you choose to stay while in Mallorca, be sure to visit the south/east coast of this beautiful island.

Beyond Palma – Touring North/Western Mallorca – Part 2

North/Western Mallorca (island of Spain) has some really lovely and historic towns as well as amazing scenery. In continuing our visit to this part of the island, here are a few other gems in addition to those listed in my Part 1 post. For an overview of our Mallorca (and Menorca) visit my post here.

Valldemossa

Valldemossa is the quintessential European mountain village. In visiting this town, you wouldn’t know that you are just a few kilometers away from some of the most beautiful and touristy beaches in the world. As we drove into town I stopped to take a photo of the village, and I could hear bells tinkling as sheep quietly grazed in the hillsides, oblivious to their surroundings.

In addition to its scenic location, Valldemossa is famous for one of its most illustrious short-term residents, Frédéric Chopin, one of the preeminent composers and pianists of the 19th century, who was from Poland. He and his girlfriend (known by her pen name of George Sand) lived in Valldemossa during the winter of 1838 – 1839. George (her real name: Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin de Francueil) was a French novelist and quite a respected and well-known author in her lifetime.

*A bust of Chopin, a portrait of George Sand and their living quarters museum at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa.*

They came to Mallorca with hopes to improve Chopin’s health, but the accommodations and cold winter weather did not help. The palace-monastery (Royal Charterhouse of Valldemossa) where they lived is the main sight in this little village. A tour of the Charterhouse includes dormitory rooms dedicated to Chopin’s stay and his works as well as George Sand’s.

A display of works by George Sand, compositions by Chopin, and the famous French Pleyel piano, which Chopin used to compose his Preludes during the latter part of his visit to Mallorca. There is some controversy about whether this is the actual piano, which has a story all of its own.

Royal Charterhouse of Valldemossa

This 13th century Palace was donated to the Carthusian Order of the Catholic Church in 1399. The Carthusian monks inhabited the Monastery until 1835 when the facilities were sold into a private estate and the small dormitory rooms then became available for rent. Chopin and Sand were not married, and after this was discovered they sought seclusion from the disapproving public in Palma and rented a room at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa, a very remote village at the time.

*Exterior views of the Charterhouse (former royal palace and monastery).*

In addition to the cells and displays dedicated to Chopin and Sand, you also have an opportunity to tour some of the features of the monastery and elegant rooms of the palace.

*The monastery’s pharmacy and monk’s cell displays.*

*Rooms in the Palace portion of the Charterhouse.*

And at certain times of the day, a short (15 minute) beautiful recital is given of Chopin’s music. We were fortunate that the recital timing coincided with our visit perfectly. You can then tour the gardens of the Charterhouse.

Recital of Chopin’s music at the Charterhouse in Valldemossa, Mallorca.

This was a really interesting stop, we enjoyed our visit.

Sóller & Porto Sóller

Just 24 km (15 miles) north of Valldemossa is the pretty town of Sóller. Like Andraxt, there are two parts to Sóller. The inland town and port are both attractive and popular tourist spots, especially for hikers and cyclists and for those seeking some beach time. Sóller became wealthy in the 19th century due to its citrus groves and fruit exports to France. Today beautiful small hotels and apartments surround the peaceful harbor and beach.

*Left, a tram transports you 3 km from the inland town to the port. Views of scenic Porto Sóller with its pleasant sandy and shaded beach.*

The inland town is also quite picturesque and worth a stroll. I bought some great Mallorcan shoes from a local cobbler – they have a unique style!

Views of Sóller. If the buildings in the center and right images look a bit like Gaudi’s work, it’s because his disciple, Joan Rubió Bellver, designed the facades during a facelift in the mid 1900’s. The church (right, Sant Bartomeu de Sóller) was originally built in the 12th century.

*My Mallorcan shoes! I wear a size 11.5 – 12 and it was a little hard to find that big of a shoe (44 in European sizes).*

Fornalutx

One little town we passed through quickly (we visited it on our last day in Mallorca as we were headed to the airport) was Fornalutx, which is only 4 km from Sóller. It is another little scenic town and worth a stroll of its main street. It might be a great place to stay on the north/west coast of the island and perhaps less expensive and quieter than Sóller or Deià.

*Views of Fornalutx – with jugglers on stilts!*

Beyond Palma – Touring Western Mallorca – Part 1

From our base in Palma, we did a couple of day trips through the western part of Mallorca. The north/western shore of Mallorca is rugged and this mountainous area (known as the Serra de Tramuntana), is Mallorca’s “backbone”, with narrow winding roads, steep hills, dramatic coastline and several quaint medieval villages. As mentioned in my Overview of Mallorca, bicyclists are everywhere – some are just out for fun while others do serious training here.

*Mallorca’s dramatic western coastline.*

Andraxt and Port Andraxt

Andraxt was our first stop along the southwest coast from Palma. We skipped the touristy and trendy Magaluf area, (a short distance from Palma), and decided to check out the quieter southwestern end of the island. As with a number of coastal towns on Mallorca, the town of Andraxt and its port share the same name and are just a few kilometers apart. Hundreds of years ago, the inland town separated from the port provided some protection against raids by pirates. Andraxt and Port Andraxt is one such example. It was interesting to see the difference between the two – Port Andraxt is the modern tourist hub with sleek yachts in the harbor and the old town of Andraxt is nestled in the hills and feels like it’s from a completely different era.

*Above – Port Andraxt, lined with shops and restaurants, and moorage for boats.*

*The old town of Andraxt with Port Andraxt in the distance – it was very difficult to find a place to get a photo of the town and port!*

St. Elm Beach

Not far from Andraxt was St. Elm Beach, about a 45 minute drive from Palma. St. Elm is a small resort town at the very tip of southwestern Mallorca. We spent a couple hours enjoying the scenery and beach here. There was a small car park just across the street from the main beach and behind the beach is a line of restaurants and shops facing the beautiful bay, with the uninhabited islet of El Pantaleu just offshore.

*Another view of St. Elm Beach and islet of El Pantaleu*

Banyalbufar

North and east along the coast from St. Elm is the municipality of Banyalbufar, with dramatic coastline as shown above in this post and with one of the many scenic medieval towers in Mallorca keeping watch over the coast.

Miramar Monastery

Situated between Valldemossa and Deia, this 13th century monastery is worth a visit – the views from its terraces are lovely. There’s not much left of the original monastery, but there are a few buildings, a small museum and gardens to provide an idea of what life was like for the early inhabitants – monks who were learning Eastern languages in order to take the gospel to the Moors.

*Old olive presses and other machinery at Miramar Monastery.*

*Coastline view from the garden terraces at Miramar Monastery – a fantastic peaceful setting.*

Deia

Not far from the Miramar Monastery is this little village, perched on a hilltop on the western coast of Mallorca, which has an outsized reputation as a real hot spot. In fact, it’s so busy that we could not find any place to park as we drove by the town. Deia is known for its scenic setting, quaint streets, magnetic star power (lots of music and movie stars have hung out here), and beautiful cove and beach. Traffic was stop and go along the road passing near the town, everyone was looking for a parking spot, just like us. We really wanted to stop and I did a couple passes by the town, but the tiny car parks were continually full. The road is so narrow with cliffs on both sides that you cannot pull off the side of the road. We gave up and just took this picture out of the car window! Maybe you’ll have better luck. Perhaps later in the season or another time of day would have been better (we were there in early September).

In my next post, we’ll explore the villages of Valldemossa and Sóller, two other very beautiful and historic towns on Mallorca’s western coast.