Fascinating Fez – Part 2

In addition to those sights mentioned in my first post on Fez, Morocco here are a few others. We enjoyed getting a feel for “real” life in Fez.

Tanneries. One of the highlights of a visit to Fez is a visit to the tanneries. These tanneries are world famous and a real sight to behold. They were the commercial backbone of Fez for hundreds of years. The process hasn’t changed much in all that time, although more sophisticated chemical treatments are used more frequently now rather than the natural dyes used in the past. The workers pass down their knowledge and skills from one generation to the next.

An overlook of Chouwara Tanneries. The white vats in the foreground contain pigeon dung, used to clean the skins.

An overlook of Chouwara Tanneries. The white vats in the foreground contain pigeon dung, used to clean the skins.

If you want to gain a new appreciation for your own job, just observe the workers here for awhile. Although fun to watch, I can’t imagine what life would be like standing in these vats day after day breathing in the strong odors and working in these conditions for a lifetime.

The large Chouwara tannery is located on the southern side of the Medina and while there aren’t signs pointing the way, just ask anyone for directions. There are several viewing areas located above leather goods shops. The proprietors will provide you with mint leaves to alleviate the smells.

A closer look at the Chouwara Tanneries. The workers are constantly moving from vat to vat to keep the skins moving through the process.

A closer look at the Chouwara Tanneries. The workers are constantly moving from vat to vat to keep the skins moving through the process.

Once you have observed the tanning process and workers, you then exit through the huge shops where can buy high quality leather jackets, purses and other leather goods for a pretty reasonable price. Surprisingly, there was no pressure to buy anything. My guess is that with the volume of tourists coming here, the shops do a pretty good business.

We happened by chance upon the Gueliz tannery located in the heart of the Medina. Our book seemed to downplay a visit here but Gueliz was actually a lot of fun and a more intimate experience, since you can walk through the middle of the tanning “factory” and among the workers treating the hides.

The recently skinned sheep hides await the first step in the processing.

The recently skinned sheep hides await the first step in the processing.

A worker in the vats at Gueliz tannery. I am really glad I don't have his job!

A worker in the vats at Gueliz tannery. I am really glad I don’t have his job!

Colored sheep hides laying out to dry. These will be made into shoes, purses and other goods.

Colored sheep hides laying out to dry. These will be made into shoes, purses and other goods.

A worker doing some final processing of the leather before it turns into a product for sale.

A worker doing some final processing of the leather before it turns into a product for sale.

At this tannery there was a Berber side and an Arab side, an arrangement probably dating back among these ethnic groups hundreds of years. We met some Berber families who accompanied their husbands to Fez to work here and were staying at a “hotel” (if you can use that word to describe the living quarters).

The Berber

The Berber “hotel” where families of the tannery’s workers are housed.

Craft shops. On a hillside right behind and above the Gueliz tannery was a craft shop area. When we first entered, we thought it was a slum community and what we found in reality was a beehive of industry – wool, leather, woodworking, and many other crafts. People were everywhere producing and refurbishing many goods.

The craft shops area in Fez.

The craft shops area in Fez.

In the craft shop area - wool, wool everywhere!

In the craft shop area – wool, wool everywhere!

The Jewish Quarter (Mellah). This is an old part of Fez that doesn’t have any sights per se but was fun to wander around, seeing all the old decrepit buildings and signs of a thriving Jewish community.

A view of a main street in the Jewish Quarter, known as Mellah (

A view of a main street in the Jewish Quarter, known as Mellah (“salt” in Arabic).

Fez had a pretty good size Jewish community in the 17th – 19th centuries and there are remnants from this era – some unique architecture, a few Hebrew signs, Stars of David, synagogues and cemetery.

A sign noting this building is a 17th century synagogue.

A sign noting this building is a 17th century synagogue.

Look closely at the decorations on the 2nd story and you'll see a Star of David, and note the year - 1531.

Look closely at the decorations on the 2nd story and you’ll see a Star of David, and note the year – 1531.

It is now an area inhabited by poor Muslim immigrants from the countryside.

Shuttered windows in the Jewish Quarter, which are unique features of this area.

Shuttered windows in the Jewish Quarter, which are unique features of this area.

There are still a few Jewish families here, although most emigrated to Casablanca, France or Israel after Morocco gained its independence from France in 1956.

We had a great hotel in Fez, called Dar Dalila. It was in the Medina, but in a quiet section near the exterior Medina wall. The interior was beautiful and our room was large and comfortable. I highly recommend this location. Nearby was a covered car park since a car is pretty much useless in the Medina.

The reception room in Dar Dalila.

The reception room in Dar Dalila.

Our room in Dar Dalila.

Our room in Dar Dalila.

Fez is definitely one of the highlights of a visit to Morocco and one of the most unique and fascinating places to visit in the world.

Reference: The Rough Guide to Morocco.

Fascinating Fez – Part 1

There’s so much to see in Fez I’m breaking this post into two parts. We arrived in Fez from Meknes (about 43 miles or 69 km). Fez was one of four imperial capitals of Morocco and was regarded as one of the holiest cities in the Islamic world due to its connection with Moulay Idriss who founded the city the late 8th century (see my post here for a little information on him). Travelers have been coming to Fez for a 1,000 years, its reputation as a center of learning religious heritage was known far and wide. Fez is a large city, and like most Moroccan cities it has a newer part (Ville Nouvelle) built by the French during their colonization period and an older section (the walled portion of the old city known as the Medina), which is huge, and is split into two parts (Fez el Bali and Fez el Jedid). Fez’s Medina is called the most complete medieval city in the Arab world. The streets and narrow alleyways wind all over and are intriguing to wander – don’t be surprised if you get a bit lost.

An centuries-old water clock in Fez. It has 12 windows and the outside is being restored, but no one really knows how it functioned.

An centuries-old water clock in Fez. It has 12 windows and the outside is being restored, but no one really knows how it functioned.

There are maps of the Medina available and the locals will help you out too. All kinds of fun things lurk behind almost every corner. We wandered into a small tannery area by accident (I was just peeking through a gate) and got a fascinating tour.

A hidden leather working area near a small tannery run by Berbers in old Fez.

A hidden leather working area near a small tannery run by Berbers in old Fez.

At another point we were taken up on top of a person’s house for a great view over the city.

A view of Moulay Idriss II's tomb from the roof top of a local's home we visited.

A view of Moulay Idriss II’s tomb from the roof top of a local’s home we visited.

The entrance to the tomb of Moulay Idriss II, a holy site in Islamic culture. He was the son of the founder of Fez and lived in the 9th century. He established Fez as a place of refuge for muslims retreating from Spain and other places.

The entrance to the tomb of Moulay Idriss II, a holy site in Islamic culture. He was the son of the founder of Fez and lived in the 9th century. He established Fez as a place of refuge for muslims retreating from Spain and other places.

Here as some of the highlights of Fez (more to come in another post). Walls and Gates. If you love medieval settings as much as I do, Fez will take you back in time. There are huge gates and walls everywhere and I didn’t figure out how they all connect. We wandered outside the walls in a few sections to get a feel for their extensiveness.

One of the main gate towers of Fez, known as Bab Sagma.

One of the main gate towers of Fez, known as Bab Sagma.

The gate known as Bab Boujeloud.

The gate known as Bab Boujeloud.

A market by the walls of Fez.

A market by the walls of Fez.

Merenid Tombs. Just outside the walled city on a hillside are the ruins of the Merenid tombs, former rulers of Fez in the 13th century. While the ruins aren’t much, the views overlooking the old city are terrific. There are 365 mosque minarets in Fez, but we didn’t try to count them.

A view of Fez and its old walls from the Merenid Tombs.

A view of Fez and its old walls from the Merenid Tombs.

Ruins of the Merenid Tombs.

Ruins of the Merenid Tombs.

Medersas. Medersa means “place of study”. These were student colleges and used largely as residence halls, since most teaching would be done in the mosques. Fez was a great center of learning and the architecture of these halls is stunning. We visited two. The layout is similar – a main courtyard, student cells, prayer hall and oratory. Medersa Bou Inania. This is one of the highlights of a visit to Fez. The dark cedar wood, tile work and stucco is beautiful. This building is the city’s only building still in religious use that non-muslims are permitted to enter. It was built in the 14th century.

Detail of the intricate carvings at Medersa Bou Inania.

Detail of the intricate carvings at Medersa Bou Inania.

A view of the courtyard of Medersa Bou Inania.

A view of the courtyard of Medersa Bou Inania.

Medersa el Attarine. This building was completed in 1325 and is also beautiful.

The courtyard of Medersa el Attarine.

The courtyard of Medersa el Attarine.

Another view of the courtyard of Medersa el Attarine showing the tile work.

Another view of the courtyard of Medersa el Attarine showing the tile work.

The narrow alleys of the Medina. As mentioned above, just wandering around the old Medina is fun. There are also a few squares where the locals gather.

The buildings are almost touching in this narrow Fez Medina alleyway.

The buildings are almost touching in this narrow Fez Medina alleyway.

Another alleyway in the Medina.

Another alleyway in the Medina.

A small square in the old Medina - Place en Nejjarine. There is a large museum in the background.

A small square in the old Medina – Place en Nejjarine. There is a large museum in the background.

Another small square, called Place Seffarine with copper pottery being created.

Another small square, called Place Seffarine with copper pottery being created.

In my next post, we’ll explore the tanneries – one of the most interesting sights to behold anywhere in Morocco and also the Jewish Quarter, a dilapidated part of Fez that is pretty much off the tourist radar. For a map of locations visited in Morocco, click here.

Jaisalmer – A Desert Mirage in Western India
A view of the walls and towers of Jaisalmer Fort.

A view of the walls and towers of Jaisalmer Fort.

From Jodhpur we drove to Jaisalmer, a city in the Thar Desert near the Pakistani border, about 177 miles (285 km) from Jodhpur. The old part of Jaisalmer is contained within the extensive walls of the fort that sits on a hill, rising above the desert. It has a different feel than other parts of India, due to the desert location. The ancient fort city was founded back in 1156 and is still inhabited by 3,000 people. Jaisalmer had a strategic position in the 16th century, it was on the camel train routes between India and Central Asia. The fort city has narrow alleyways, with apartments, temples and shops practically stacked on top of each other.

Entering Jaisalmer Fort through a succession of four gates on the northeastern side,

Entering Jaisalmer Fort through a succession of four gates on the northeastern side,

There’s a lot to do in this desert fortified city, here are the primary things we visited:

Jain Temples 

There are a number of Jain Temples within the fort. They take advantage of every inch of space within such a confined area. (Practical tip: Since you cannot wear shoes in the temples, bring your own “slipper socks” – otherwise your bare feet will get quite dirty).

Chandraprabhu Temple. This temple was built in 1509 and has many intricately sculpted pillars. It is small, with a couple circular levels and rotunda ceiling.

Interior view of Chandraprabhu Jain Temple.

Interior view of Chandraprabhu Jain Temple.

Rikhabdev Temple. Like many structures within the fort, space is tight around this temple. Take the time to soak in the beautiful intricate carvings and shrines. This temple and the one below also date from the 16th century.

The narrow confines of the Rikhabdev Jain Temple.

The narrow confines of the Rikhabdev Jain Temple.

Parasnath Temple. Another Jain Temple in the fort city is Parasnath. There are various interesting shrines made of various materials (including metal) and an underground library with ancient manuscripts, all tucked away in the corners and below the structure – a bit like a maze.

The magnificent entrance to the Parasnath Jain Temple.

The magnificent entrance to the Parasnath Jain Temple.

Wandering the Fort City. There are some great restaurants and shops hidden in the nooks and crannies of the alleyways of the old fort city. The vendors are friendly and we purchased some excellent paintings of desert scenes from one artist.

One of the narrow streets in the fort city.

One of the narrow streets in the fort city.

The Fort Palace. Just inside the northeastern gates is the Fort Palace. It was the home of the rulers of Jaisalmer and contains some beautifully restored 18th century rooms.

This is the Jaisalmer Fort Palace - it is worth touring, not only for the interior views but also the views of the old fort city from its upper levels.

This is the Jaisalmer Fort Palace – it is worth touring, not only for the interior views but also the views of the old fort city from its upper levels.

A bedroom in the Fort Palace.

A bedroom in the Fort Palace.

View of the fortified city from the Palace.

View of the fortified city from the Palace.

Kothari Haveli. In the fort city and on the northern perimeter there are several well preserved 19th century Havelis (rich merchant homes). We visited one of them. The family who lived here gained their fortune in brocade and jewelry. An audio guide and signage in the rooms provide a good understanding of life in the 19th century for the upper class.

The internal courtyard of Kothari's Patwa-Haveli Museum.

The internal courtyard of Kothari’s Patwa-Haveli Museum.

One of the richly decorated rooms in the Haveli.

One of the richly decorated rooms in the Haveli.

Bada (or Bara) Cenotaphs. Just 6 km outside of Jaisalmer are a series of royal cenotaphs or memorials. There is a great view to be had of Jaisalmer fort as you drive back towards the city from here. Very few tourists visit these cenotaphs, which are slowly crumbling into the surrounding sand.

Just outside the city are the Bada Bagh Cenotaphs. These are memorials to the royal families of Jaisalmer.

Just outside the city are the Bada Bagh Cenotaphs. These are memorials to the royal families of Jaisalmer.

Gadisagar Lake. This lake, on the outskirts of Jaisalmer, was the city’s main water supply hundreds of years ago. It has some interesting ruins around the shores and in the lake. The lake stands out as a refreshing spot in this dry desert landscape.

A view of Gadisagar Lake.

A view of Gadisagar Lake.

Thar Desert. Just about 20 miles (30 km) south of Jaisalmer are some accessible dunes of the Thar Desert. We spent an evening out in the desert riding camels, enjoying the sunset view and a dinner with a dancing show.

Women gathering water at a well in the desert - almost a biblical scene of life in the desert.

Women gathering water at a well in the desert – almost a biblical scene of life in the desert.

Robyn giving her camel a rest.

Robyn giving her camel a rest.

Jodhpur, India – Home of the Colossal Mehrangarh Fort

From Udaipur (via Ranakpur and Kumbahlgarh) we visited the large Rajasthan city of Jodhpur, about 198 miles (319 km) distant. For a map of locations visited in India, click here.

The huge Mehrangarh Fort dominates the landscape for many miles.

The huge Mehrangarh Fort dominates the landscape for many miles.

One of the main sites in Jodhpur is the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, sitting on a prominent hill dominating the sprawling city which has seen tremendous growth in the last decade. The fort was built around 1460. The thick, high walls (over 100 feet) of the fort make it an imposing structure and it must have been a very intimidating sight for potential invading armies 500 years ago. There are miles of old walls extending around the area in every direction.

One of the gates leading into the fortress.

One of the gates leading into the fortress.

Cannonball pockmarks from the 1800's can be seen on this bastion.

Cannonball pockmarks from the 1800’s can be seen on this bastion.

The fort dates from the 16th century, and contains palace rooms with numerous intricate lattice stone carvings; ladies of the court could view the activities of the fort’s daily life without being seen.

The intricate lattice stone work can be seen in this photo.

The intricate lattice stone work can be seen in this photo.

The fort is now a museum containing various displays in the rooms (such as a collection of highly decorated palanquins and paintings as well as a collection of arms) and period furniture.

One of the palanquins on display.

One of the palanquins on display.

Display of daggers and other formidable weapons.

Display of daggers and other formidable weapons.

Interior of the Phool Mahal at Mehrangarh fort.

Interior of the Phool Mahal at Mehrangarh fort.

North side of the fortress, with several gates leading up into the main area.

North side of the fortress, with several gates leading up into the main area.

An audio guide provides a good overview of the fort. On the north side, just outside the main gate are some beautiful gardens that are worth a vist. Jodhpur is known as the blue city. The city’s founder decreed that the homes surrounding the fortress be painted blue, but no one seems to know why blue was chosen. A number of homes near the fort still retain the blue hue.

The blue buildings near the fort's north side.

The blue buildings near the fort’s north side.

Other Sights in Jodhpur

Jaswant Thada. Close to Mehrangarh fort is the beautiful Jaswant Thada, a white marble memorial to Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. There are nice views of the fort from this location. It was built in 1899.

A view of the Jaswant Thada.

A view of the Jaswant Thada.

Mandore. This area was the original capital of the local Marwar Kingdom until the 1400’s. This small city contains beautiful temples, tombs, and gardens. It is an area that does not see a lot of tourists, but we found it quite fascinating.

A view of Mandore with the shrines, temples and gardens.

A view of Mandore with the shrines, temples and gardens.

Inside one of Mandore's temples.

Inside one of Mandore’s temples.

One of the Hindu shrines in Mandore.

One of the Hindu shrines in Mandore.

Clock Tower. This is a landmark in the older part of the city. During the day there are numerous market stalls selling all kinds of food and other goods.

A view of the Clock Tower at night.

A view of the Clock Tower at night.

Markets near the Clock Tower.

Markets near the Clock Tower.

Our hotel in Jodhpur, the Pal Haveli Inn. It has a very peaceful and quiet courtyard inside, a respite from the chaos of the city.

Our hotel in Jodhpur, the Pal Haveli Inn. It has a very peaceful and quiet courtyard inside, a respite from the chaos of the city.

Our hotel (above) was in an excellent location, in the heart of the old city next to the Clock Tower and square. From the peaceful courtyard of our hotel you are immediately plunged into this market area and feel the ‘real’ India. The hotel had a rooftop restaurant that overlooked the fort for a lovely night view.

A view of Mehrangarh Fort from our hotel rooftop restaurant.

A view of Mehrangarh Fort from our hotel rooftop restaurant.

Visiting Volubilis and Moulay Idriss – A Great Day Trip from Meknes

Outside Meknes, Morocco are two historical sites that make for a good day trip adventure. They are about 25 km (15 miles) from Meknes.

Volubilis – A Roman Provincial Capital

Volubilis was one of the Roman Empire’s most remote outposts. The city exported wheat and olives to Rome along with wild animals from the Atlas Mountains that were then slaughtered in the Coliseum games and gladiatorial contests. Within 200 years, the local lions, bears and elephants became extinct.

The Tangier Gate - the east entrance into Volubilis.

The Tangier Gate – the east entrance into Volubilis.

Roman influence in Volubilis began a long slow decline starting in 285 AD with the withdrawal of the Roman garrison. They wanted to conquer the local Berber population but never succeeded.

The Forum and Basilica at Volubilis.

The Forum and Basilica at Volubilis.

The city was still thriving in the 17th century, when much of the city’s marble was carted away by Moulay Ismail for the building of his gigantic palaces in Meknes.

The Triumphal Arch, erected to honor the emperor Caracalla. It once had a bronze chariot at the top.

The Triumphal Arch, erected to honor the emperor Caracalla. It once had a bronze chariot at the top.

The House of Columns.

The House of Columns.

Another view of the ruins and mosaic floors at Volubilis.

Another view of the ruins and mosaic floors at Volubilis.

One of the main highlights of Volubilis are the outstanding mosaics floors, of which there are about 30 and many of which are largely intact 1,700 years later (although the colors are fading due to exposure to the elements).

A mosaic floor of "Dionysos and the Four Seasons".

A mosaic floor of “Dionysos and the Four Seasons”.

Another mosaic floor - "The Labors of Hercules."

Another mosaic floor – “The Labors of Hercules.”

Allow a couple hours to wander the ruins, which run along the main promenade. Bring your own guidebook for information about the mosaics and other ruins.

Moulay Idriss – A Sacred Pilgrimage Site

Tucked up in the hills just 4 km from Volubilis, Moulay Idriss is a very holy and important pilgrimage site to the Islamic faith, which was named after its founder. The focus of the pilgrimage is Moulay Idriss’ mausoleum. He was Morocco’s most acclaimed saint (a great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed) and the creator of Morocco’s first Arab dynasty.

A view of Moulay Idriss. The large green roofs indicate the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss.

A view of Moulay Idriss. The large green roofs indicate the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss.

The main square of Moulay Idriss.

The main square of Moulay Idriss.

The only round minaret in Morocco is in Moulay Idriss, it is part of the Merdersa Idriss, a Koranic school. Built in 1939 from materials taken at Volubilis.

The only round minaret in Morocco is in Moulay Idriss, it is part of the Merdersa Idriss, a Koranic school. Built in 1939 from materials taken at Volubilis.

While there are no specific sights for non-Muslims to visit, it was fun to wander around. A friendly local man gave us a tour of the town, taking us up through the steep narrow lanes (the locals musts be in good shape since they have to haul their supplies either using mules or their own backs).

Mules are the means of transportation in this hill top town.

Mules are the means of transportation in this hill top town.

One of the many narrow lanes in the town.

One of the many narrow lanes in the town.

Our impromptu guide showed us a number of viewpoints (the town’s location and surrounding area are quite scenic). Moulay Idriss reminded us a bit of the medieval villages you might find in Italy or other European towns.

Reference: The Rough Guide to Morocco

National Historical Sights Near Nashville – Part 2

The Hermitage

This was the residence of the 7th president of the United States, Andrew Jackson (he was president from 1829 – 1837).

A view of the front porch of the mansion. The Hermitage eventually became a 1,000 acre cotton plantation.

A view of the front porch of the mansion. The Hermitage eventually became a 1,000 acre cotton plantation.

The back porch and yard of The Hermitage mansion. This side faces the plantation fields and the working areas.

The back porch and yard of The Hermitage mansion. This side faces the plantation fields and the working areas.

He served at a unique time in our nation’s history, which was after the founding fathers had mostly passed away and before the tumultuous time of the Civil War. Andrew Jackson became famous during the War of 1812 due to his victory over the British at the Battle of New Orleans.

A parlor room in The Hermitage mansion.

A parlor room in The Hermitage mansion.

The dining room in The Hermitage mansion.

The dining room in The Hermitage mansion.

His home in Tennessee, called The Hermitage, is about 10 miles east of downtown Nashville. The sights include his mansion home, gardens, tomb and outlying buildings in addition to an excellent visitors center.

The building on the left was originally two stories and was Andrew Jackson's first home at The Hermitage. It was later reduced to one story and became a slave quarters.

The building on the left was originally two stories and was Andrew Jackson’s first home at The Hermitage. It was later reduced to one story and became a slave quarters.

The visitor's center provides an extensive overview of the U.S. during the time of Jackson.

The visitor’s center provides an extensive overview of the U.S. during the time of Jackson.

Statues of Andrew Jackson and his wife Rachel in the visitor's center. The marriage caused quite a stir at the time, since her divorce from her first husband had not been finalized prior to their marriage. She died right before Jackson moved in to the White House.

Statues of Andrew Jackson and his wife Rachel in the visitor’s center. The marriage caused quite a stir at the time, since her divorce from her first husband had not been finalized prior to their marriage. She died right before Jackson moved in to the White House.

Andrew Jackson's fancy carriage, which was a status symbol of the day.

Andrew Jackson’s fancy carriage, which was a status symbol of the day.

Andrew and Rachel's gravesite, in the garden of The Hermitage.

Andrew and Rachel’s gravesite, in the garden of The Hermitage.

Plan on at least a couple hours to take in everything. The guides giving tours of the home are dressed in period costume.

Stones River National Battlefield

This Civil War site is located in Murfreesboro, about 35 miles south of Nashville. A total of 81,000 troops engaged in this battle starting on New Year’s Eve in 1862. Defending and controlling the Middle Tennessee (as it was called) was critical for the Union war strategy, and Murfreesboro in particular was important due to its location along the railroad line and “pike” (highway), which provided vital supply lines for the Union troops in their push from Nashville towards the heart of the Confederacy.

A view of the battlefield. The night before the battle, soldiers slept here on the frozen ground without fires, knowing a major battle was imminent.

A view of the battlefield. The night before the battle, soldiers slept here on the frozen ground without fires, knowing a major battle was imminent.

President Lincoln desperately needed a victory to bolster the morale of the Union troops (as well as the northern citizens), and although victory came at a heavy price, the Union forces won the day. There were 13,249 Union casualties and 10,266 Confederate, with over 3,000 dead.

The Hazen Brigade monument built by Union soldiers in 1863, just 6 months after the battle. It is the oldest intact Civil War monument in the nation.

The Hazen Brigade monument built by Union soldiers in 1863, just 6 months after the battle. It is the oldest intact Civil War monument in the nation.

The National Cemetery at Stones River. Over 6,000 soldiers are buried here, not only from the Stones River battle, but from other battles during the Civil War. Of those buried here, 2,562 of the soldiers are unknown.

The National Cemetery at Stones River. Over 6,000 soldiers are buried here, not only from the Stones River battle, but from other battles during the Civil War. Of those buried here, 2,562 of the soldiers are unknown.

The Battlefield is free of charge, has a good visitors center and is well sign posted. Your tour can be done as a long walk around to the various points of interest or via car.

A display in the Stones River National Battlefield visitor's center.

A display in the Stones River National Battlefield visitor’s center.

Part of the Battlefield is located across a very busy highway and railroad track (the same ones the Union troops were seeking to control) and you’ll need your car to get over to this other section. There are some other sites in this area we did not have time to visit including Evergreen Cemetery (Confederate) and remnants of Fortress Rosecrans, built after the battle of Stones River.

National Historical Sights Near Nashville – Part I

We recently had the opportunity to spend a long weekend in Nashville, TN. While the music scene and Grand Ole Opry are terrific, there’s a lot of Civil War history in the Nashville area as well. These sights are well-maintained and highly recommended. Here are a few sights we had a chance to visit.

Carter House, Lotz House and Carnton Plantation (The Battle of Franklin)

One of the bloodiest and most monumental battles of the Civil War (1861 – 1865) occurred at the edge of the small town of Franklin, about 20 miles south of Nashville. This was a prelude to the Battle of Nashville which occurred about two weeks later. Today Franklin is a beautifully restored historic town.

This tiny building served as the Headquarters of the Union Army in Franklin.

This tiny building served as the Headquarters of the Union Army in Franklin.

A Civil War monument in Franklin.

A Civil War monument in Franklin.

On the southern edge of the town is where the Battle of Franklin (November 30, 1864) occurred, with ground zero being near two homes still standing, called the Carter House and the Lotz House.

A view of the Carter House. The family (and neighbors) hid in the basement during the Battle of Franklin.

A view of the Carter House. The family (and neighbors) hid in the basement during the Battle of Franklin.

The Union army, enroute to Nashville, wanted to slow the advancing Confederate forces and decided make a defensive stand near the Carter House, which had a commanding view of the rolling fields to the south, and the approaching Confederate Army. They built the earthwork defenses around the Carter home and then extending in both directions in a U-shape. The Confederate Army was on the south side of these defenses and in a very exposed position. The Confederates attacked and engaged in a frontal assault that resulted in a slaughter. The battle raged for 5 hours and the Carter family hid in the basement of their home during the battle and managed to survive.

About 9,500 casualties occurred during this battle with the Confederate Army suffering the majority of those casualties. There were about 63,000 soldiers engaged in this battle. The total American casualties were about 1.5 times the number of American casualties in D-Day (June 6, 1944). A poignant story: One of the wounded Confederates was a soldier by the name of Tod (Theodrick) Carter, who happened to be part of the attack on the Union forces at Franklin. He ended up fighting literally in his backyard, and was shot 9 times, with one bullet lodging in his brain behind an eye, only 500 feet from his boyhood home. On the morning after the battle, his family found him on the battle field and brought Tod into the family home where he died one day later. Given the severity of his wounds, I don’t know how he survived even that long.

The Carter farm office building, which is the most bullet damaged building still standing from the Civil War.

The Carter farm office building, which is the most bullet damaged building still standing from the Civil War.

The smokehouse, showing scars of the Battle of Franklin.

The smokehouse, showing scars of the Battle of Franklin.

The Carter House and several nearby buildings on the property can be visited (kitchen, farm office, smokehouse, and an example of slave quarters).

The Lotz House is just across the street from Carter House and can be visited as well. The Lotz family also hid in the Carter basement during the battle. Being constructed out of wood, the Lotz home suffered significant battle damage, and today you can see evidence of where cannon balls crashed through the ceiling and destroyed portions of the beautiful floors (Mr. Lotz was a skilled carpenter).

An exterior view of Lotz House.

An exterior view of Lotz House.

The interior of the Lotz House is beautiful, with many ornate pieces of period handcrafted furniture. The Lotz family eventually lost most everything and had to move out of Franklin, making their way to California via covered wagon.

Carnton Plantation

Just a mile or two south of Carter House is Carnton Plantation, which served as a field hospital for the Confederate Army during the Battle of Franklin.

Robyn with a view of the front of the Carnton Plantation home. Wounded and dying soldiers were laid all over the grounds as well as in the house.

Robyn with a view of the front of the Carnton Plantation home. Wounded and dying soldiers were laid all over the grounds as well as in the house.

Interior view of the Carnton Plantation home.

Interior view of the Carnton Plantation home.

With thousands of wounded soldiers needing attention, the Carnton Plantation home was requisitioned as a field hospital. The floors of the home still have visible bloodstains in several rooms. Carrie McGavock and her husband tore up every piece of cloth they had (bedding, drapery, table cloths, etc.) to make bandages and dressings for the wounded.

Blood stains from the wounded soldiers in an

Blood stains from the wounded soldiers in an “operating room” in Carnton Plantation.

Bodies of several Confederate generals killed in the battle were laid out on the back porch so that the soldiers could pay their final respects.

The back porch of Carnton Plantation. On the second level is where they laid the bodies of the Confederate generals for viewing by the soldiers.

The back porch of Carnton Plantation. On the second level is where they laid the bodies of the Confederate generals for viewing by the soldiers.

Also on the grounds of the plantation is the largest private military cemetery in the U.S., containing almost 1,500 graves of Southern soldiers who died on the battlefield during the Battle of Franklin.

The Confederate Cemetery on the grounds of Carnton Plantation. Many of the graves are marked only with numbers, soldiers whose remains have not been identified.

The Confederate Cemetery on the grounds of Carnton Plantation. Many of the graves are marked only with numbers, soldiers whose remains have not been identified.

There is a visitor center here too, as well as several other buildings to see, along with a signposted path explaining parts of the battle.

Inside the slave quarters at Carnton Plantation.

Inside the slave quarters at Carnton Plantation.

Each site above provides a guided one-hour tour with a very knowledgeable host. A wealth of information about the battle and the families whose homes and lives were changed forever is shared during the tour. Photos were not allowed inside these residences although as shown above I managed to take a photo or two inside the Carnton Plantation home.

In my next Post I will review The Hermitage and Stones River National Battlefield.

Ranakpur – One of the Most Outstanding Jain Temples in India
A view of Ranakpur from the entrance walkway.

A view of Ranakpur from the entrance walkway.

In my humble opinion there are three temples that are “must sees” in India: The Golden Temple (of the Sikh religion) in Amritsar (in the very north of India), the Mount Abu Temple complex (Jain religion and not too far from Ranakpur as the crow flies but quite a long drive via road) and Ranakpur Temple (also Jain).

Another view of the entrance to Ranakpur.

Another view of the entrance to Ranakpur.

Unfortunately due to the vast distances it’s difficult to see all three temples in a single trip. We at least were able to visit one of them. We were traveling from Udaipur to Jodhpur and made two stops during the day’s drive, Kumbahlgarh Fortress and Ranakpur. The two sights are about 50 km (31 miles) apart by road. From Ranakpur it’s about 170 km (105 miles) to Jodhpur and 75 km (47 miles) to Udaipur.

Ranakpur Temple leaves one almost speechless. It’s difficult to truly convey its beauty in either words or images.

Interior view and the most holy part of the temple. Only Jains can enter the sanctuary (straight ahead in the photo).

Interior view and the most holy part of the temple. Only Jains can enter the sanctuary (straight ahead in the photo).

The temple was built in the 15th century and is huge. It contains 29 halls, 80 domes and 1444 individually carved columns. The detailed carvings are astonishing – intricate designs in beautiful white marble.

A view of one of the many halls in the temple. Note the column carvings.

A view of one of the many halls in the temple. Note the column carvings.

An elephant carving in Ranakpur.

An elephant carving in Ranakpur.

Detail of one of the dome's carvings.

Detail of one of the dome’s carvings.

Robyn with a carving of the first Jain teacher (or tirthankar) Adinath, to whom the whole temple is dedicated.

Robyn with a carving of the first Jain teacher (or tirthankar) Adinath, to whom the whole temple is dedicated.

The Jain religion is fascinating and would require a whole separate discussion. It is one of the many religions found in India, and its followers are extremely devout. We saw many Jain pilgrims walking on the side of the road and our driver explained that they walk for hundreds of kilometers with few if any personal belongings. They wear a covering over their mouths so as not to destroy life by accidentally inhaling an insect.

Other Information:

With your Ranakpur entrance fee you’re given a handset and headset that provides an audio tour of the temple with numbered stations to guide you through this amazing complex.

For a better view of the temple, hike up the nearby hills.

Ranakpur as viewed from a nearby hill. The vast size becomes more apparent from this angle.

Ranakpur as viewed from a nearby hill. The vast size becomes more apparent from this angle.

You will also see some other temples around the vicinity.

Other small temples near Ranakpur.

Other small temples near Ranakpur.

Ranakpur is located in the center of the Kumbahlgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, and we had monkeys jumping all over our van as we drove up the mountain road to the temple! There are leopards, wolves, and many other forms of wildlife nearby.

Monkeys jumping on our car as we drove up to Ranakpur!

Monkeys jumping on our car as we drove up to Ranakpur!

Kumbahlgarh Fortress – One of Rajasthan’s Greatest Forts

On our way from Udaipur to Jodhpur, India there are at least two major sights definitely worth visiting, Kumbahlgarh Fortress and the incredible Ranakpur Jain Temple (I will review the Ranakpur Temple in a separate post). Kumbahlgarh is about 80 km (50 miles) north of Udaipur, and somewhat remote – the roads got narrower as we went (barely one lane wide) and you had the feeling that the road might come to an end and that we’d be hiking before long. You are definitely in the countryside!

Approaching Kumbahlgarh fortress.

Approaching Kumbahlgarh fortress.

As we rounded the corner on a winding hillside, there it was in front of us, an imposing sight on a high hilltop (1,100 meters or 3,600 feet altitude). Even though the fortress is remote, it gets its share of visitors from Jodhpur and Udaipur, due to its significance and well-maintained structures. On the day we visited, we were lucky, we pretty much had the fortress to ourselves.

One of several gateways as you climb to the Kumbahlgarh castle.

One of several gateways as you climb to the Kumbahlgarh castle.

The castle within Kumbahlgarh fortress.

The castle within Kumbahlgarh fortress.

Kumbahlgarh was built from 1443 – 1458, on the site of an earlier fortress and some of the ruins here date back to the 2nd century BC. It has a commanding view of the countryside and is surrounded by 12 km (7.5 miles) of massive walls that are in some places wide enough for 8 horses to ride abreast.

A view of Kumbahlgarh's massive and imposing walls from the outside.

A view of Kumbahlgarh’s massive and imposing walls from the outside.

A view of Kumbahlgarh's walls and the village inside.

A view of Kumbahlgarh’s walls and the village inside.

It would take about 4 hours just to walk all the way around the thick walls and you could spend another half day wandering around the enclosed hilly area and visiting the many outlying structures, 360 in total. There is also small living village inside the main fortress.

The Vedi Temple - built in 1457 for performing rituals after the completion of the fort.

The Vedi Temple – built in 1457 for performing rituals after the completion of the fort.

The Hindu Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, built in 1458.

The Hindu Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, built in 1458.

If you like stunning old fortresses, Kumbahlgarh should be on your list!

Meknes – One of Morocco’s Finest Cities – Lots to See and Few Tourists
One of the many gates in Meknes.

One of the many gates in Meknes.

Meknes is about halfway between Rabat and Fez and makes a great stop for a couple days. Due to its historical significance and numerous sights, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage site. For a map of places visited in Morocco, click here.

This is the city of Sultan Moulay Ismail who reigned for 55 years (1672 – 1727). He is revered as a father of his country who united Morocco by campaigning against rebellious Berber chiefs and the Europeans, and creating Morocco’s strongest-ever army. Unfortunately he was also extremely brutal – responsible for 30,000 deaths (not including those killed in battle!). In Meknes, you can get a glimpse of the scale and enormity of his lifestyle and building projects.

The main square, Place el Hedim, is quiet during the day and hopping at night with numerous food stalls, shops, snake charmers and all kinds of other entertainment. There are a number of restaurants lining the square.

A view of Place el Hedim from our restaurant perch. This is late afternoon before the evening crowds arrive.

A view of Place el Hedim from our restaurant perch. This is late afternoon before the evening crowds arrive.

Paul trying to put a ring around the soda bottle neck. A lot harder than it looks! One of the many things to do in Place el Hedim.

Paul trying to put a ring around the soda bottle neck. A lot harder than it looks! One of the many things to do in Place el Hedim.

On the south side of the Place el Hedim is the Bab Mansour, a huge gate that marks the entrance into the overwhelming expanse of palaces and grounds of Sultan Moulay Ismail. It is quite beautiful and has an intricate design. Supposedly Moulay Ismail asked the architect if this was the best he could do, and he said “no”. Oops. The answer cost him his life. If he had said yes, I wonder what would have happened (it would probably have been the same outcome).

The beautiful Bab Mansour gate.

The beautiful Bab Mansour gate.

Near the Bab Mansour is a large courtyard enclosed by walls, where our Riad (hotel) was located.

Interior of Riad Yacout, our home in Meknes. Great place.

Interior of Riad Yacout, our home in Meknes. Great place.

The square near our hotel with carriages waiting for their next fare.

The square near our hotel with carriages waiting for their next fare.

From this courtyard it is a short walk to several sights, starting with the Prison of Christian Slaves, an area of subterranean vaults, lit only by the skyholes to the square above. It is believed these vaults were actually storage areas although Moulay Ismail did have Christian captives, so who knows…

Inside the subterranean vaults of the Prison of the Christian Slaves.

Inside the subterranean vaults of the Prison of the Christian Slaves.

Close to the prison is the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, which is the one of the few active Islamic shrines that non-muslims may visit. It is quite beautiful and worth a stop.

In the courtyard of the Mausoleum.

In the courtyard of the Mausoleum.

Inside the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail.

Inside the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail.

Ville Impériale is the creation of Sultan Moulay Ismail. Most of the palace is not open to tourists, since it is still in use by the Moroccan king. You can take a carriage ride around never-ending walls and visit some of the old ruins, such as the stables and granaries. This area is known as the Heri es Souani.

Robyn with our friends and horse-drawn carriage for our tour around the Ville Impériale.

Robyn with our friends and horse-drawn carriage for our tour around the Ville Impériale.

The long passage road (about 1 mile) along walls of the Ville Impériale.

The long passage road (about 1 mile) along walls of the Ville Impériale.

Inside the granaries of the Ville Impériale. There was an underground water supply system here.

Inside the granaries of the Ville Impériale. There was an underground water supply system here.

The gigantic stables at Ville Impériale. Everything about this place is on a huge scale.

The gigantic stables at Ville Impériale. Everything about this place is on a huge scale.

In addition there are numerous souks to keep you busy shopping for all those things you won’t use once you get back home!

No lack of pottery available in Meknes!

No lack of pottery available in Meknes!

Outside Meknes

About 25 km (15 miles) outside of Meknes is one of the greatest Roman city ruins in Africa, Volubilis. Just 4 km from Volubilis is the holy Islamic hill town of Moulay Idriss which until a few years ago did not allow tourists to stay over night. I will review these sights in a future post.

References: The Rough Guide to Morocco.