Less Traveled Northern England-Part 2: Durham and Alnwick

Northern England

Sites visited in Northern England.

Durham Cathedral

Durham Cathedral 2

Durham Cathedral.

The next morning I drove north to Durham, to visit its famous Cathedral (completed 1133). I had heard that Durham Cathedral was a great example of Norman architecture, built for both religious and defensive purposes.  The design of this Cathedral is a cross between Romanesque architecture and Gothic. It has a typical Gothic-like three isle nave, with a cross rib vaulted ceiling, but the pillars are much heavier (with interesting decorations), and the side isle arches are rounded— more like other Romanesque-era churches. Be sure to check out the arch stone work in the Galilee Chapel. The Cathedral overlooks the River Wear and I recommend going for a short walk along the river to get a good view of the Cathedral, and enjoying the peaceful river setting.

Durham Castle

Durham Castle.

Durham Castle is right next door, but since it is part of Durham University, and classes were in session, a tour was required and I did not take the time to wait for the tour.

Alnwick (“Ahn-ick”) Castle

Alnwick Castle 2

Alnwick Caslte.

Although I have not read the Harry Potter books, I had heard that this castle was used for scenes from the first movie (during the Quidditch game). What a classic castle. It is the second largest inhabited castle in England (dates from 1309, the home of the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland) and has been well maintained. It sits on a large green estate on the edge of Alnwick town, overlooking the River Aln and valley. The landscape surrounding Alnwick Castle is some of the prettiest I’ve seen in England.

Alnwick Castle 6

Alnwick Castle from River Aln.

Gamboa Rainforest Resort, Panama.

Panama – Touring the Panama Canal

Panama Canal Map.

Panama Canal Map.

We visited Panama as part of a business trip in December 2006.  Panama was part of Colombia until 1903. Panama uses the U.S. dollar as its official currency and has close connections to the U.S.  The population of Panama is growing as a result of many U.S. retirees who are moving there to take advantage of the fairly low cost of living. There are signs everywhere for new housing developments and resorts touting the good life in Panama.  December is in the rainy season, and it rained, sometimes incredibly hard, almost every day we were there, but the showers didn’t last long. Don’t go anywhere without an umbrella!

Entrance to Panama Canal.

Near the entrance to Panama Canal.

Of course Panama is most famous for the Canal, which connects the Caribbean Sea with the Pacific Ocean. The Panama Canal Zone was officially part of the U.S. until it was turned over to Panama in 1979 by treaty. It was an incredible engineering feat to complete the Canal in 1914.

Bridge of the Americas, Panama.

Bridge of the Americas-from North and South America.

The Canal is currently undergoing renovation to widen and lengthen the locks to allow even larger ships to pass through.  It is also a popular cruise ship route.  To get from one end of the canal to the other is about a 10 hour event through the locks and to cruise the 40 miles. It costs each ship from $48,000 to $100,000 to transit the Canal. The cheapest fare collected was 36 cents by someone who swam the Canal!!

Country Inn & Suites, Panama City.

Country Inn & Suites Panama City

We stayed at the Country Inn & Suites Panama on the entrance to the Canal.  On the western side of the Canal (Panama City side) is a buffet restaurant (Miraflores Restaurant at the Miraflores Locks).  You can sit outside, right next to the locks, and the ships pass through almost close enough to touch. It is an entertaining dining experience to eat and watch the huge cargo ships enter the locks and raise or lower as they transit through the Canal.

Gamboa Rainforest Resort, Panama.

Gamboa Rainforest Resort, Panama.

We took a taxi from our hotel to the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, less than 30 minutes away, which includes a beautiful hotel and gift shop, overlooking Gatun Lake.

Gatun Lake, Panama.

Ships on the Panama Canal, Gatun Lake.

At the resort, we paid for a tour on the Canal, and were taken down to the boat launch for a 60 minute boat ride on Gatun Lake (which is part of the Canal). If one wanted more seclusion, and to be in the rainforest, the Gamboa resort would be a good place to stay.  On the Canal, we passed several large cargo ships.

Monkey Island, Gatun Lake, Panama.

Monkey Island, Panama Canal.

In Gatun Lake, we pulled up to Monkey Island and the driver whistled and a number of monkeys came out to meet us. In a few minutes there were monkeys everywhere, and several came on to our boat-they are not shy and love getting bananas!

Panama Canal.

Monkey on the bimini top, peering inside.

Panama Canal.

A weekend getaway on the Canal.

If you have the chance to visit Panama, definitely have dinner at the Miraflores locks and go for a boat ride on the Canal.

Less Traveled Northern England-Part 1: York, Scarborough and Whitby

I have to admit that although I have visited England at least 13 times, I still feel the excitement of the anticipation of seeing another “undiscovered” castle or town when my plane lands at Heathrow airport. I hop off the plane and breeze through the immigration process and then take the shuttle to the rental car (“car hire”) lot on the airport perimeter for a day or two of sightseeing before a week of work. After navigating my first of many roundabouts for the day, I regain the feel of driving on the left side of the road and then I’m ready to go.

Northern England

Sites visited in Northern England.

Renting a car is an economical way to see the UK. I usually use National or Alamo Car Rental. It is a convenient way of visiting many sights that are hard to get to by train. UK train travel has become quite expensive, due to deregulation of the train system, and as a consequence, the highways have unfortunately become more crowded.

Northeast England is a remote, less visited region of England, and yet it has some of the finest medieval and Roman sites in the UK. It’s about a three hour drive from Heathrow up the M1 Motorway to Leeds and then about 45 minutes east along the A64 to York. Beyond York north and east are the sites of Scarborough Castle, Whitby Abbey, Durham Castle and Cathedral, Hadrian’s Wall, Alnwick Castle (of Harry Potter fame), Lindisfarne Castle and Abbey, and Bamburgh Castle. There are a number of castles on the northeast coast due to the long history of Scandinavian raiders, even back to the time of the Romans.

York

The road signs on the outskirts of York (on the A64) warn drivers to park in one of the park-and-ride lots and not to try driving into the town. I have visited York twice, both times in October, and had no problem parking right in town at that time of year.

York Gate

One of several city gates in York.

 

York Wall and Minster

York City Gate and Minster.

The York Minster (13th century) is one the largest churches in northern Europe. York Minster is a great example of medieval Gothic architecture and has beautiful stained glass from the 15th century. Inside the cathedral, be sure to buy a ticket to check out the underground area of the Minster to see the early foundation work and also evidence of the original Roman city engineering with water drainage channels still in use.

York

View of York and the Minster.

Other things to do in York include walking the walls of the old city, visiting the city’s medieval gates, St. Mary’s Abbey ruins, the York Shambles (a narrow medieval street) and Clifford’s Tower, the only surviving part of York Castle, and the site of a Jewish massacre in 1190.

Scarborough

Scarborough Castle 2

Scarborough Castle.

From York I drove out to Scarborough, which is about 1 hour by car. Scarborough Castle is a ruin, but it commands a pretty spot on a high bluff overlooking the coast and North Sea.  There are also foundation ruins from a Roman lighthouse here. Of all the attractions on the Northeast coast of England, this is one that can be skipped without missing too much.

Whitby

Whitby Abbey 4

Whitby Abbey.

From Scarborough, it is a short trip up the coast to Whitby, which must be an English weekend “getaway” town. I saw lots of locals strolling around the town on the weekend, and sailboats coming back into the harbor in the afternoon. My main interest was visiting the abbey ruins that sit on a bluff overlooking the town and sea. I love old abbey ruins, and the ruins of Whitby (12th century) are considered some of the finest from the medieval period.

Whitby Town

Whitby Town.

I spent the night in Darlington (south of Durham) after a full day which included driving to northern England from Heathrow airport, stopping in York (short visit since I had been there before), and visiting Scarborough and Whitby.

Dordogne, France Part 2: Beynac Castle (Château de Beynac)

I recall the tingling sensation I got when I saw Beynac Castle, as I looked up from the Dordogne River Valley high on the cliff above the river. To be in the Dordogne region, center of the Hundred Year’s war between France and England was for me surreal.

Location of Beynac, France

Beynac is in south-central France

A short drive from the river takes one up to Beynac Village, which seems frozen in time. There is a small parking lot 50 yards from the village. Beynac Castle (13th century) is well preserved and commands a far-ranging view east and west along the Dordogne River.

Beynac Castle France (2)

View of Beynac Castle from Dordogne River Valley

In the distance to the south, the former English stronghold of Castlenaud (Château de Castlenaud) can be seen.  We had the fortune of excellent weather in March 2009, giving us great views of the valley and also straight down to the Dordogne River from the Castle ramparts (don’t fall over!). The castle has been restored beautifully–the Great Hall contains some very large tapestries, and near the entrance is a restored workers kitchen, with many tools and cutlery of the day displayed.

Beynac Castle France (5)

Beynac Castle-East Side

The setting, size and beauty of Beynac Castle makes it one of my favorite in Europe. I’m surprised that most tour and guide books barely mention it, if at all.

The drive from Périgueux via Sarlat to Beynac is enchanting. As one drives south, small villages nestled against the cliffs, right off the sides of the road appear in greater frequency.

Cazelle Grottos Dordogne France (2)

Cazelle Grottos

On our way to Sarlat, we stopped at a bit of a tourist trap, Les Grottes du Roc de Cazelle, where we took a walk through the woods and cliffs to take a trip through time, learning about the prehistoric people who lived in this region (who gave us the great artwork of Lascaux caves), farm life in medieval times in this region and more recently in the 1800’s. We learned how people used the caves and cliff overhangs as shelter.  While some of the displays are tacky, the explanation of how villages were supported hanging off the cliffs (by holes being drilled into the cliffs for beams) was quite interesting.

Cazelle Grottos Dordogne France (3)

Settler’s Residence in cliffs