National Parks

24 Hours in Bryce Canyon National Park

When planning a trip to Southern Utah, it’s hard to go wrong when deciding between the five National Parks that span the area. Each park is quite unique, and all are spectacular. As the smallest of the National Parks in Southern Utah, Bryce Canyon National Park is suited perfectly for visitors who are dealing with a time constraint but would still like to experience nature and take in incredible views.

Bryce Canyon as seen from the Rim Trail

On a recent adventure, a good friend and I spent 24 hours in Bryce Canyon and can confidently say that we saw and explored a great deal of the park. While the park is small (only 18 miles long with paved roads from north to south) there is plenty to explore and visitors could easily spend several days in the National Park.

Durant and I at Bryce Point

My friend, Durant, and I planned to backpack Riggs Spring Loop Trail, an 8.6 mile loop out of Rainbow Point in the southern-most part of the park, and were also intent on stopping at as many viewpoints and exploring as many of the short hikes as we could.

Taken near Sunrise Point along the Queens Garden Trail

A few notes on backpacking the Riggs Spring Loop: 1) backcountry permits are required and can be purchased at the Visitor Center for $5 per person, 2) backcountry camping is only permitted at designated campsites, of which there are four along the Riggs Spring Loop, 3) reservations may only be made at the Visitor Center, and only up to 48 hours in advance.

Taken near Sunset Point. The large hoodoo in the center of the photo is appropriately named, “Thor’s Hammer”

We arrived to Bryce Canyon National Park and the Visitor Center just before noon on a Saturday in the spring and had no problem securing one of the campsites along Riggs Spring Loop for that night.

Taken from the Rim Trail, close to Sunset Point. Afternoon showers are common

With a few hours to “burn” before starting our overnighter we hit as many of the viewpoints as we could on our way to Rainbow Point. Each observation point is slightly different, and all are well worth the stop.

Taken from Piracy Point, with a view of Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument to the East

To visitors who only have a couple of hours to explore Bryce Canyon, I would recommend the four viewpoints closest to the Visitor Center: Sunrise Point, Sunset Point, Inspiration Point, and Bryce Point. I would also recommend the 1.8 mile hike along the Queens Garden Trail.

Looking North from Rainbow Point

At around 3:30 pm, and after seeing both Rainbow and Yovimpa Points, we took off along the Riggs Spring Loop Trail heading east, clockwise around the Loop.

Taken from Riggs Spring Loop Trail

The hike from Rainbow Point to Riggs Spring Campsite (where we spent the night) is 5.3 miles and is all downhill. Rainbow Point is the highest point in Bryce Canyon at 9,115 feet, while Riggs Spring Campsite sits at only 7,514 feet. In this situation, what goes down must come up, and 1,600 feet of elevation gain is significant over the remaining 3.3 miles of the hike while carrying a backpack.

A view of Yovimpa Point from below

View from the Corral Hollow campsite along the Riggs Spring Loop Trail

We got to our campsite at about 6 pm (it’s typical to plan 2 miles per hour when backpacking), set up camp, ate our meager backpacking meals, and watched as the beautiful night sky crept over us.

The night sky as seen from our campsite

Surrounding cliffs on the climb to Yovimpa Pass from Riggs Spring campsite

After a typical night’s rest when camping (my small air mattress deflated on me several times throughout the night), we broke camp bright and early. We were out by 7:30 am, and made our way up Yovimpa Pass and back to Rainbow Point by 9 am.

The view, looking South, between Yovimpa Pass and Rainbow Point

Once at Rainbow Point we got in our car and decided to stop at the remaining viewpoints we had yet to see. Several viewpoints and hundreds of photos later, we left Bryce Canyon National Park well before noon and headed home.

Taken near Bryce Point

Bryce Canyon National Park features a great deal of amenities including two campgrounds, a lodge with 114 rooms (lodge suites, motel rooms, and cabins), showers, laundry, a restaurant, and a general store. Just outside of the park are several motels, gas stations, etc. There is also a $30 entrance fee per vehicle to enter the park.

Bryce Canyon is famous for having one of the highest concentrations of hoodoos on Earth

Bryce Canyon is open year round. We visited in the spring and there were still trace amounts of snow on the ground. Other than that, the temperature was quite comfortable, although it does get cold at night.

Another view of Bryce Canyon taken from near Bryce Point

For information regarding Bryce Canyon National Park, including camping, hiking, weather, permits, etc., please visit the National Parks website.

Toroweap, the Lesser Known Observation Point at Grand Canyon National Park

Boasting close to six million visitors, Grand Canyon National Park was the second most visited National Park in 2016. In fact, the Grand Canyon has been the second most visited National Park since 1990, with numbers ranging from 4 to 5 million visitors per year. And why wouldn’t people want to see the Grand Canyon? With stunning views and breath taking heights, the canyon is a marvel to behold! However, for those of us who like to enjoy nature’s splendors in relative peace and calm, making the more traditional visit to the North or South Rim of the Grand Canyon can be slightly dissatisfying. Dealing with busloads of people at every observation point, fighting the hoards for the perfect photo op; somewhere along the line the spiritual experience that comes with beholding something truly magnificent is tainted.

Looking East from Toroweap Overlook on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

There is one observation point along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon that is still widely undiscovered, a place where visitors can enjoy the Grand Canyon in complete solitude, Toroweap, also known as Tuweep.

You don’t want to fall from there! The Colorado River lies 3,000 ft below

The names Toroweap and Tuweep are used interchangeably when referring to the area. “Tuweep” is the Paiute word for “the earth” and is used to refer to the general area. “Toroweap” is the Paiute word for “dry or barren valley” and refers specifically to the valley and the overlook.

At the entrance to the Grand Canyon National Park

In 1870, John Wesley Powell was led to Tuweep by a Paiute guide. He spent time mapping out the area and naming many of the prominent features.

With my mom, Robyn, and my Grandma, Donna. We visited in the Spring and had beautiful weather.

Despite not being very far from civilization as the crow flies, Toroweap is a very remote area, with no amenities, so visitors need to be prepared with whatever they need for the excursion, water, food, gas for their vehicles, etc.

Looking West from Toroweap Overlook

From St. George, Toroweap is roughly an 80 mile drive on unpaved roads. Taking the final Utah I-15 exit before entering Arizona, head South on County Hwy 5. The paved road becomes a dirt road the moment you cross into Arizona. Follow County Hwy 5 South to the old Mt. Trumbull Schoolhouse. Originally built in 1918, Mt. Trumbull Schoolhouse is a fun stop along the way to Toroweap. From the Schoolhouse, head East on County Hwy 5. You will be driving over Mt. Trumbull. Continue to follow the road as it turns South and into Grand Canyon National Park. Total driving time from St. George to Toroweap is between 3 and 3 ½ hours.

Note that the last 3 miles before arriving to the observation point are very rough. There is parking available at this point for vehicles with low clearance. Only vehicles with high clearance are suited to continue.

Taken from the 4-wheel drive section of the trip. Toroweap, dry or barren valley, was certainly named appropriately.

There is no entrance fee to enter the National Park at Toroweap. Near the overlook, there are several hikes to explore. There is also a campground with several available campsites, however, backcountry permits are required for camping and there is a small fee to spend the night. As I previously mentioned, there are no amenities. Be sure to bring sufficient water, food, clothing, gas for your vehicle, etc. Also be sure that your vehicle is in good condition, that you have a quality spare tire, and that you are ready to change a flat tire if needs be.

Nothing more fun than exploring nature’s beauty!)

For information regarding current conditions at Toroweap, hiking and camping in the area, etc. the National Parks website is very helpful.

Descending into Black Canyon of the Gunnison

In his book, Images of America: The Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Duane Vandenbusche put it best by saying, “Several canyons of the American West are longer and some are deeper, but none combines the depth, sheerness, narrowness, darkness, and dread of the Black Canyon.” With depths ranging anywhere from 1,800 to 2,722 feet (at Warner Point) and a width of only 40 feet at its narrowest point along the river, Black Canyon of the Gunnison owes its name to the fact that some places along the canyon only receive 30 minutes of sunshine each day. Black Canyon of the Gunnison was made an official National Park in 1999 so that visitors could enjoy the spectacular views, the daring climbs, the breathtaking (literally) hikes, and the Class V rapids that the canyon offers. The National Park encompasses 14 miles of the 48 mile canyon.

A view of the Black Canyon, looking North West, taken from Sunset View

In our recent adventure to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, my father and I somewhat tiptoed the line between bold adventurer and casual sightseer. We decided to descend into the canyon following the Gunnison Route, which is the most popular, and supposedly the “easiest” route to the bottom.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison as seen from the South Rim Visitor Center

Permits for the descent to the river are required and are issued (free), on a first-come first-serve basis from the visitor center. To that end, we arrived at the South Rim Visitor Center when it opened (8 am), applied for our permits, and got an early start to, what we figured to be a physically exhausting day.

Taken along the descent into the Black Canyon

The Gunnison Route begins at the South Rim Visitor Center and initially follows the Oak Flat Trail for 1/3 miles until you reach a sign, “River Access. Permit Required.”

The Gunnison Route follows the drainage seen on the far right side of the photo

At that point the true descent begins. The descent is steep, but very doable, we just made sure to take it slowly, and followed a drainage nearly the entire way to the river.

My father, Paul, using the chain to help with the descent

About 1/3 of the way down, there is an 80 foot length of chain to hold onto. Although the chain isn’t necessary to use, we found it helpful for extra balance.

I too, found the chain to be helpful

As we descended closer to the river, the temperature began warming up and it seemed as though we were entering a lush paradise, complete with thick foliage and stunning views of the rushing river and towering cliffs.

Our view as we neared the bottom of the canyon

Along the river there are several backcountry campsites available. Although we had originally thought about camping in the canyon we decided to camp at the South Rim Campground and descend into the Black Canyon as a day hike.

Taken near the campsites along the river

Total, the hike took us about an hour and a half each way. Remember that the descent into, and the ascent out of the canyon is about 1800 foot change in altitude, so be prepared with good hiking shoes, water, snacks, knee braces, ankle supports, etc. We also found it extremely helpful to use gloves while descending/ascending the portion of the trail that has chain.

My dad and I near the campsites. Happy to have successfully descended into the Black Canyon, but nervously awaiting the ascent.)

The South Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is roughly 15 miles from Montrose and 64 miles from Gunnison. To get there from Montrose take Colorado State Highway 50 (Main St. in Montrose) heading East. After about 7 miles you’ll exit onto Highway 347 heading North East. Follow the highway for about 7 miles into the National Park.

One more view of the paradisiacal setting along the Gunnison River in the Black Canyon

There are several campgrounds with access to water and electricity within the National Park. For more information regarding amenities, weather conditions, visitor center information, trail conditions, etc. please see the National Park website.

A view the Black Canyon, not far from the South Rim Visitor Center

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers

National Parks

24 Hours in Bryce Canyon National Park

Toroweap, the Lesser Known Observation Point at Grand Canyon National Park

Descending into Black Canyon of the Gunnison