On our last full day in Sardinia, Italy we decided to take a small boat tour along the eastern coastline, specially the Gulf of Orosei. All of Sardinia was amazing, but this day-trip was icing on the cake. The coastline is amazing – towering cliffs and some of the prettiest beaches and water anywhere on the planet.
This maps show the general regions we visited in Sardinia. The Gulf of Orosei is on the central east coast.
We stayed two nights in the small town of Santa Maria Navarrese, a perfect spot from which to take the boat tour and a lovely place to visit in itself. Our visit was in late September and early October, after the summer crowds were gone but yet still warm enough for boating and swimming.
A view of Santa Maria Navarrese’s own beach, right next to the small town.
Below are a few of the images captured during our full-day boat trip. Our boat held about 10 people, which was perfect. We visited a few secluded sea caves and coves before visiting some of the more popular beach and swim stops.
One of the postcard images of Sardinia, Cala Goloritzè. You can take a pretty steep and long hike down to the beach, but we opted for the boat tour to get this view. The boats do not land on the beach (I believe they are forbidden to do so), but do allow time to swim in the area.
We stopped by Cala Goloritzè again in the afternoon for a swim, on our way back to Santa Maria Navarrese. I cannot adequately describe the beauty of the turquoise water.
A view of Cala Marilou, one of my favorite stops along the Gulf of Orosei. What made it a favorite is that there are several beaches and coves to explore, such as shown below.
Another part of Cala Marilou, a small cove of stunning cliffs and beautiful water.
A view of Cala Luna, we stopped here over lunch time. There is a small bar and cafe behind the beach area.
A large cave on the beach at Cala Luna – a great place to get out of the sunshine if needed!
Above – another swim stop along the coastline of the Gulf of Orosei.One of our last stops of the day, Cala Biriola.
Castelsardo is a very picturesque little town on the north coast of Sardinia and worth an overnight stop if convenient in your travels, or a least a short visit on your way to other destinations. For us, we stopped here overnight on our way to the magnificent beach at La Pelosa (near Stintino, on the very northwest tip of Sardinia) and then on to Alghero.
Castello dei Doria
The 13th century castle at the top of the hill in Castelsardo is named after the Genoese family who was entrusted with its care. It is open to visitors and there are a few rooms you can visit with various displays, including the Museum of Mediterranean Interweaving.
At the top of the town lies the Castello dei Doria, with great views of the countryside and Mediterranean Sea.
A view from the top of Castello dei Doria.
Street Wandering
As with any small European town, it is fun to just wander the narrow, steep streets. Our hotel was on one of these little streets. There was plenty of car parking outside the old town on the sea side of Castelsardo.
Left – restaurants offering tables in the narrow alleys of Castelsardo. Right – Robyn pointing out our accommodation for the night in the heart of the old town. The rooftop of our little hotel offered a wonderful view of the sea and is where we had breakfast.
View of Castelsardo’s 16th century Cathedral, with a magnificent view of the Mediterranean Sea and Sardinian coast line in the distance.
I loved this image of an old 1st story floor/ceiling, in a visitor’s center near the Castle. I can’t imagine trying to build anything that would be square and level in those days!
Some of the other 16th buildings near the Cathedral in Castelsardo’s old town.
Elephant Rock
Just off a road leading into Castelsardo from the east is this interesting volcanic rock formation, aptly named “Elephant Rock”. What is even more interesting is that within this rock there are two pre-nuragic tombs, dating to a time before Sardinia’s Nuraghe were built, likely 5,000 or more years ago. We just pulled off the side of the road to take a look.
Just outside of Castelsardo is this interesting volcanic rock containing ancient tombs, aptly name “Elephant Rock”.
Views of ancient tombs carved into Elephant Rock. In the right and left images you can see the horns of a bull carved into the stone. It was a little difficult to get these photos, Elephant Rock is taller than it appears.
Don’t miss beautiful Castelsardo if you have the chance!
From our start in Olbia and Sardinia’s Costa Esmeralda, we traveled north a short distance and took (with our rental car) the 15-minute ferry ride from Palau over to La Maddalena Island and town, which is part of the La Maddalena Archipelago, located at the very north east edge of Sardinia, Italy. We spent 3 nights on La Maddalena, which gave us enough time to see La Maddalena Island, Caprera Island (reached by bridge from La Maddalena) and then a day-trip boat tour of some of the other islands in the Archipelago. I’ll share a bit about each day below.
La Maddalena
We caught a morning ferry to La Maddalena from Palau, no reservations were needed in October and the ferries run continuously all day. A round trip ticket for car and passengers was about 40 Euro.
Left – our ferry, with La Maddalena in the distance. Right – a view of La Maddalena town and harbor from the ferry.
Upon arrival. we immediately headed for Cala Francese beach, not far from the main town and then explored a few other beaches around the island before checking into our hotel later in the afternoon. La Maddalena is not big, you could probably drive around the island in 30 minutes or less.
Above – Cala Francese, on the southwest coast of La Maddalena. You have to take a very short drive on a dirt road to get to the parking area and then walk on a trail for 5 minutes to get to the beach.Left – Spiaggia Bassa Trinita, Right – Spiaggia del Cardellino, both beaches are on the northwest coast of La Maddalena.
Cala Lunga, at the northern tip of La Maddalena.
Left – Spiaggia di Cala Spalmatore, on the eastern side of La Maddalena. Right – a view of La Maddalena town as we drove back after our tour of the island.
The town was fun to explore, and many boat tours are offered from the harbor.
Caprera Island
After a wonderful day on La Maddalena, we decided to spend our second day on Caprera, an island connected to La Maddalena via a bridge. Caprera is far less populated, and largely National Park land. There are numerous beaches and hiking trails and to start our day we decided to do a hike on the north end of the island, to the Batteria de Candeo, a really interesting site.
There are numerous trails criss-crossing the northern end of Caprera, and they are well signposted. There were very few people on the trails, we pretty much had them to ourselves.
At the north end of Caprera is the military site of Batteria de Candeo, an anti-aircraft and ship emplacement built between World War I and World Ward II. It was built from the natural rock in the area and was well camouflaged – even today it looks like part of the natural landscape except for the doorways.
Other views of Candeo. Candeo can be accessed via the Caprera trail system.Other views and beaches accessed from the trail system in Caprera – left to right: Cala Crucitta, Cala Nepoletana, Cala Caprarese.
There are some beaches on the south end of the island also, such as Spiaggia Due Mari, for example. We visited the south end and spent a while lounging on Spiaggia Due Mari beach after our hike, but unfortunately I did not capture a photo!
Note: I had wanted to visit Cala Coticcio beach on Caprera, one of the most famous beaches in Sardinia. The only way to visit is with a guide (they limit access to this beach to preserve its natural state). I reserved a date with the guide, but I also needed a Park pass, and for some reason this was difficult to do online, so I gave up and cancelled our visit to this particular beach. It is a fairly long hike to Cala Coticcio and if we had done that hike, we would not have had time to do the hiking discussed above. I think it’s just a trade off on how you want to spend your time. As shown above, there are other stunning beaches and sights that don’t have the limitations of Cala Coticcio.
Day Trip Boat Tour
On our final day in La Maddalena, we decided to do a 6-hour boat tour of some other islands in the La Maddalena Archipelago and we’re glad we did. Below are photos from our various stops during the boat tour. It was a perfect day.
Buddelli Island and Pools – Buddelli Island is known for its pink sand beach (above left – small photo), but you cannot access the beach directly, they are trying to preserve and rehabilitate the pink sand. However, we did jump off the boat and swim in what they call the “Buddelli Pools” nearby – beautiful protected water.Santa Maria Island (above), we stopped at this island and beach for about 90 minutes. Spargi Island (above and below), the beaches here were stunning. We were able to swim and lounge for about two hours.Two more views of Spargi Island – with the wild boar terrorizing visitors on the left – we were warned to not bring food on the beach – the boar wandered around the beach area and were pretty aggressive in rummaging through beach bags! Another view of Spargi’s coves on the right – what a setting!
As with every other region of Sardinia, it would be easy to spend a week or more in these islands. The water was super clear, and the beaches were beautiful. If you go to Sardinia, don’t miss La Maddalena!
We started our Sardinia vacation by flying (from Frankfurt) into Olbia on the northeast coast of Sardinia. This was a great place to begin (and end) our Sardinian adventures. Olbia is ideally situated near the famous Costa Smeralda and the La Maddalena Archipelago, as well as other costal towns, archeological sites and beaches. (See here for an overview of regions we visited in Sardinia, we toured the island in a counter-clockwise route).
Olbia
While not a major tourist destination itself, Olbia has a lovely old town and is situated on a beautiful harbor. We spent our first night here, enjoying dinner in one of the many restaurants on the main pedestrian street and browsing the vendor booths lining the harbor promenade – a very festive atmosphere.
Views of Olbia and harbor, with Tavolara Island (right), the mountainous island with more beautiful beaches in the far distance.
The next morning we drove north toward Porto Cervo, the heart of Costa Smeralda, stopping at beaches along the way. Our first day started out cool, windy and slightly rainy, but by the afternoon it was warm and sunny. The weather didn’t stop us from enjoying the sights along the coast and wasn’t a factor for the rest of our trip.
Costa Smeralda
Costa Smeralda got its name and started becoming fashionable in the early 1960’s, due to development efforts led by Prince Karim Aga Khan. It’s maintained that status ever since. Our stay here was brief, given the many areas of Sardinia we wanted to visit. Below are a few images of the beautiful coastline of this region.
This sign, along the coastal road from Olbia to Porto Cervo lets you know you’re entering the fabled Costa Smeralda.
Capriccioli Beach
Spiaggia Principe, considered Sardinia’s most famous beach (although it’s only one of hundreds as beautiful), on Costa Esmarelda.
Porto Cervo, the center of Costa Smeralda, was pretty quiet in early October. We enjoyed walking around the harbor and the town, with many expensive shops.
The calm, clear waters of La Celvia Beach, south of Porto Cervo.
La Celvia beach (left and above), was just a short distance from our hotel in the Costa Smeralda resort area of Cala di Volpe (above right), and near a golf course as well as Capriccioli and Spiaggia Principe beaches. What more could you ask for!Although not directly part of Costa Smerelda, Spiaggia Cala Brandinchi, near San Teodoro, not far south of Olbia, is another great beach and park, with some lawn area just behind the beach for games or picnics. We were flying out of Sardinia shortly after our visit here and so we didn’t get to enjoy this beach for long!
Real pink flamingoes near San Teodoro!
As with any region of Sardinia, it would be easy to spend your whole vacation right in (or around) Costa Esmeralda. If you want to live here, be ready to open your checkbook. It’s one of the most expensive regions in Europe and given its allure, it’s easy to see why.
As I have mentioned is previous posts, we LOVE the islands of the Mediterranean. They are some of my favorite destinations in world. After visiting Mallorca and Menorca (which belong to Spain), the next island on our list was Sardinia (part of Italy). We had been to Sardinia’s northern island neighbor, Corsica (part of France) years ago and from the beautiful southern coastal town of Bonafacio we could see Sardinia in the distance, only about 12 km (7.5 miles) away. We visited Sardinia in October, which is a great time to go – the water was still warm and the crowds were limited.
This map of Sardinia shows the five main regions we visited in Sardinia.
I will be sharing more posts on our Sardinian adventures soon, but first here are some things you may not know about about this beautiful island.
1. Sardinia is part of Italy
Although an autonomous region, Sardinia is definitely Italian. Some Americans have never heard of Sardinia and really have no idea that it’s part of Italy. The Sards have their own language but of course speak Italian, English, and other European languages quite fluently. It was easy for us to get by on English and a few Italian phrases. The food and gelato are wonderful, as in other regions of Italy.
2. Sardinia is big, and a relatively sparsely populated island
This is important to keep in mind when planning a trip – allow two or three weeks to see the whole island or if you have less time, perhaps concentrate your time in one region. Sardinia is the 2nd largest island in the Mediterranean (just slightly smaller than Sicily) but has just 1/3 of Sicily’s population. It is about 170 miles long and 90 miles wide. We covered a lot of ground in two weeks, but still did not see everything (see map above), including the southwest coast.
3. Sardinia boasts some of the most stunningly beautiful coastline (and water) in the world
Cala Goloritze, Gulf of Orosei, accessible only by boat or a 3.5 km hike. The color of the water was the most incredible turquoise hue I’ve ever seen.
Sardinia has an embarrassment of beaches – no matter where you are on the island, you’re close to some of the best beaches in the world. The Gulf of Orosei on the eastern side of the island has a breathtaking coast although it’s not easily accessible, except by boat or via some steep hiking trails.
4. There are hundreds of incredible beaches, many of which are undeveloped and uncrowded
La Pelosa Beach, near Stintino, Sardinia. You must make a reservation for this beach if visiting during high season. It is worth the hassle (which is not a big deal nor expensive).
Some beaches might have a refreshment stand, a few might be close to some resorts, but often there are no hotels or condos anywhere to be seen. Admittedly, there are (just a few) beaches that are so popular you must have reservations during the high season or can only be accessed with a guide, and there a few beaches that are not accessible at all – due to preservation efforts, speaking of which…
5. Sardinians take their beach sand seriously
From pink sand beaches to shiny quartz sand beaches to powdery white sand, the sand is beautiful everywhere. However, don’t even think about taking a sample home with you. You will be fined. You are also required to have mats underneath your beach towels so as to not inadvertently trap sand and take it home in your towels.
Spiaggia Rosa, on Budelli Island (near La Maddalena). You cannot set foot on this pink sand beach, they are protecting it for future generations. However you get a view of it from a boat tour, as in this photo.
Example of the fine quartz sand and pebbles found in Sardinia.
6. A car rental is essential
Unless you plan to go straight from the airport to a resort and straight back to the airport or plan on a tour by a group bus, a car is the only way to really see the island and reach some of the beaches and tourist sites. Some sights or hiking trails are remote. Since the island’s population is sparse, driving was not a problem – I did not feel rushed or on edge with crazy drivers pushing me to speed up or forcing me to get out of the way.
7. Sardinia offers something for everyone
Friendly, welcoming locals – check. Beautiful beaches – check. Warm, clear water – check and check. Charming medieval towns – check. Fascinating ancient historical sights – check. Remote mountains, rock climbing, forests and hiking trails – check, check, check and check. Diving – check. Excellent food – check. What more could a person want?
A view of Alghero, on the northwest coast of Sardinia, a beautiful medieval town, one of our favorites on Sardinia.
Nurhage La Prisigona Historical Site (14th century BC), near Arzachena, Sardinia.
8. Sardinia has its own island get-aways
As funny as it may sound, Sardinia can be considered a ‘mainland’ and just off its coast (such as the northeast coast) lie an archipelago of islands (the main island is La Maddalena – see map above) accessible by only ferry and smaller boat, some of which are part of a national park. These islands are home to some of the best beaches and best hikes anywhere in Sardinia.
The island of Spargi, part of the La Maddalena Archipelago. We could have stayed here our whole trip!
9. Sardinia is not just for the jet-setting crowd
In the 1960’s Coasta Esmeralda was popularized and has since become a jet-setting hotspot. This part of the northeast coast (near Olbia) certainly has some beautiful beaches and coastline. While you will find big yachts, high-end real estate, retail and eating establishments here, this is just one small enclave of the island. The rest of the island seems unfazed (and untouched) by the movie star and billionaire crowd.
View of Porto Cervo, the center of Coasta Esmeralda.
10. Go Now
Sardinia isn’t quite on the main tourist map yet, although posts like this don’t help! The majority of visitors are Italian (this is their backyard!), followed by French and Germans. On one of our boat tours, we were with some Swiss and Belgian tourists. We ran into a few tourists from the U.S., but not many. Very few tourists seem to explore the whole island, there are lots of “untouched” little mountain villages and quiet beaches to find solitude if that’s your thing.
The cute little village of Gavoi in north central Sardinia.
Word is getting out, so go now! Here’s one of my recommended websites for great information on Sardinia tourism. I read almost every post Claudia has written, very helpful. Of course, I will be publishing information on each region of Sardinia we visited over the course of the coming weeks.
Note: Featured image – Cala Marilou, Gulf of Orosei
The Independent Tourist 