Author: Paul Terry

I love to travel. I've been fortunate to visit about 75 countries so far. I prefer to travel independently to get off the beaten path a bit. I also try to find good deals to make my travels more affordable.

Images of Segovia, Spain

Spain is the fourth most-visited country in the world based on volume of international tourists (after France, US and China) and yet many parts of the country seem less “overrun” by tourists, possibly because it’s relatively large country. In future posts, I will share a few of the “hidden” treasures of Spain.

Just 92 km (57 miles) northwest of Madrid is the beautiful town of Segovia, which does receive its fair share of tourists, and it’s easy to see why – going from one end of the old town to another, we get to see a nearly perfectly preserved Roman-era aqueduct, great Gothic cathedral and fairy-tale Alcázar (castle).

The 1st century Roman aqueduct in Segovia. It was still in use until the late 19th century!

A view of the 16th century cathedral in Segovia–the last great Gothic cathedral in Spain. There are beautiful Belgian 17th century tapestries here.

One of my favorite personal photos ever – taken from the west side of town, the rays of the late afternoon sun on the Segovia cathedral.

One of the narrow lanes in the old city of Segovia – the Alcazar lies ahead.

The great Segovia Alcazar. Rebuilt after a fire in 1862. This image is taken from an old Templar Knights church (Church of Vera Cruz) outisde the city walls.

The great Segovia Alcazar. Rebuilt after a fire in 1862. This image is taken from an old Templar Knights church (Church of Vera Cruz) outside the city walls.

Inside one of the halls in the Alcazar.

The Vera Cruz Templar church – from the early 13th century. Well worth a visit itself and for the views of the Alcazar (just behind the church).

On the way from Madrid, be sure to stop by El Escorial too, about half way between Madrid and Segovia (see my post on El Escorial here).

The Vasa Museum – One of Stockholm’s Must-Do Sights

An unforgettable stop in Stockholm, Sweden is the Vasa museum, which was on our must-do list this summer when we visited Stockholm. This busy museum is home to one of Stockholm’s main attractions— the perfectly preserved 17^th century warship Vasa, which sank on its maiden voyage right out of the Stockholm shipyard on August 10, 1628.

The bow of the Vasa. Entering the museum and seeing this ship is an unforgettable experience.

Work commenced on the Vasa in 1626. Commissioned by Swedish King Gustav II Adolph, the Dutch master shipwright Henrik Hybertsson was tasked with building the Vasa, which was to have two gun decks—a sign of Sweden’s growing naval power. Henrik died a year later and his assistant, Hein Jacobsson completed the task. Unfortunately the ship’s beam was too narrow to support two decks of cannon, causing the Vasa to be top heavy and unseaworthy.

The fateful two rows of cannon ports can be seen on the port side of the Vasa.

The intricate carvings on the stern of the ship.

On August 10^th, the ship had only sailed a few hundred meters before being hit by two squalls. The first caused the ship to lean, but it righted itself. The second squall caused the ship to list heavily, taking on water through its gun ports and sinking shortly thereafter. Fifty people perished in the sinking with sails set and flags flying. The ship settled at the bottom of the Stockholm harbor, eventually covered in mud and preserving it for over 300 years.

A view of the Vasa from the port stern side–note the huge rudder at the rear.

The ship was finally raised in 1961, 95% intact. The reduced salinity of the Baltic Sea kept worms from eating the wood, allowing us to now go back in time and see an actual naval ship from the 1600’s. The ship is so perfect that is doesn’t look real, you think you’re on a movie set for the Pirates of the Caribbean.

On one of the upper floors overlooking the Vasa.

The museum has four floors providing multiple views of the Vasa from all angles and contains a number of exhibits on naval life in the 1600’s and items recovered from the Vasa. A hop-on, hop-off boat takes you to the museum and numerous other sights in Stockholm.

The Vasa museum, right on Stockholm’s harbor.

Castles of Southern Wales – Part II

The country of Wales has much to offer and attracts fewer tourists than other parts of Great Britain. The sights below are not far from Cardiff, the largest city and capital of Wales. For a map of places visited in Wales click here.

Caerphilly Castle. Caerphilly Castle is just north of Cardiff (about 6 miles). It is the largest castle in Wales and the 2^nd largest castle (in area) in Britain. Construction on Caerphilly began in 1268 and its design changed the direction of castle architecture in Britain due to its use of several revolutionary defensive features, including its massive rings of concentric walls and a sophisticated system of moats and lakes.

Entrance to Caerphilly Castle.

Interior of the Great Hall, Caerphilly Castle.

The immense lake surrounding Caerphilly Castle.

Near the entrance are some great examples of siege engines—they are huge, and must have caused a lot of damage by hurling huge projectiles hundreds of yards. The main features of Caerphilly are the walls, towers, Great Hall and water-filled moats. Well worth a stop!

Raglan Castle. Raglan Castle, located northwest of Cardiff about 32 miles, is interesting in a number of ways. It was one of the last “medieval” castles built in the UK, with initial construction having begun in 1432 on the Great Tower (which is really after the medieval era).

The gatehouse range – the entrance to the castle since the 1460’s. An imposing sight to visitors in the 1400’s and today.

The remants of the Great Tower (center left), the first edifice constructed at Raglan. It withstood heavy attacks during the civil war in 1646.

Also, the main castle was built separately from the stronghold, or keep (called the Great Tower), rather than the typical medieval arrangement of the castle walls and living quarters extending from and surrounding the keep.

The Pitched Stone court at Raglan. It was the domain of the household staff–containing kitchens, pantries, and offices.

The Fountain Court. The main residences, chapel and main Hall were located here.

Additionally this castle was transformed in the early 17^th century into an Elizabethan mansion with extensive terraced gardens, fountains and a man-made lake, rivaling many of the great palaces of its time. While the gardens and lake have not survived to the present day, their traces can still be seen. I really enjoyed visiting this castle – it is large and has a number of interesting features and (ruined) rooms. Most of the castle we see today were constructed in the 1400’s and 1500’s.

Tintern Abbey. Ok, it’s not a castle, but Tintern Abbey, about 36 miles from Cardiff and just 5 miles north of Chepstow along the River Wye is a classic medieval abbey ruin.

An exterior view of Tintern Abbey from the monk’s working areas.

Another exterior view of Tintern Abbey.

The soaring interior space of the great church with the green grass floor and the elegant architecture with towering columns and intricate windows frames is a beautiful sight.

Interior of Tintern Abbey.

Another interior view of Tintern Abbey, note the fine window detail.

I love medieval abbeys as much as I do medieval castles. Tintern was a Cistercian abbey, originally founded in 1131, and the present church we see today was built between 1269 and 1301. In its prime, up to 400 monks lived at Tintern and the abbey was an economic hub of the area for 400 years, overseeing vast agricultural production and other activity.

There are a number of other ruins to see in the monastery (living quarters, infirmary, and chapter house) in addition to the church. There’s lots of good informational signage around the site.

Castles of Southern Wales Part I

Like northern Wales, southern Wales has some outstanding castles and other interesting historical sights, all within a small geographic region. The Romans settled this area around 48 AD, and their influence can still be seen in a number of ruins.

Chepstow Castle is one of the oldest surviving castles in Britain. Construction started on its great tower around 1081, just 15 years after William the Conqueror landed in southern England and changed the course of English history.

A view of Chepstow Castle, with Marten’s Tower in the center and the well-fortified twin tower main gatehouse on the right. These are late 12th century castle additions.

The Lower Bailey of the castle. Domestic accomodations such as kitchens, latrines, other chambers are located here.

If you love medieval castles, Chepstow doesn’t disappoint. It sits on a sheer cliff over the River Wye, near the mouth of the Severn River, on the border of Wales and England.

This image shows the Great Tower and how it and the castle walls sit right on the edge of the cliff over the River Wye.

The castle was built to defend William’s newly conquered territory from the Welsh.

A view inside the Great Tower, a three story building, quite tall in its day. The builders used Roman stone blocks in its construction.

A view of the Welsh countryside and River Wye from the Upper Barbican of Chepstow Castle.

Chepstow is a large castle, with four distinct courtyards or sections. Supplies were brought to the castle via the River Wye using a hoist into storage rooms cut into the solid rock below the main castle.

Another view of Chepstow Castle.

I highly recommend a visit to this castle, one of my favorites in Britain.

Caerleon Fortress. Just west of Chepstow near the town of Newport is Caerleon Fortress, a Roman army site founded in 75 AD, home to one of the three permanent legions in Britain.

The foundations of the barracks and latrines at Caerleon.

What remains are the foundations of the barracks and latrines (laid out with Roman efficiency), an amphitheater and ruins of the baths.

The amphitheater at Caerleon.

The amphitheater is still used for various events. The site is definitely worth a visit, and provides a feel for life in the Roman army in Britain.

Cardiff Castle. Cardiff is only 13 miles west of Newport and 32 miles west of Chepstow. Located right in the heart of the city of Cardiff, the castle grounds are impressive and surrounded by a large wall. There isn’t much remaining of the medieval castle other than the walls of the octagonal keep which sits on a high mound (motte) in the middle of the castle grounds.

The keep at Cardiff Castle.

There are some other beautiful neo-Gothic buildings that are part of Cardiff Castle. In addition, exhibits show part of an old Roman wall, and other items since this was the site of a Roman fort around 50 AD.

Visiting the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque – Two of Istanbul’s Greatest Treasures

Two not-to-be missed spots in Istanbul are the Hagia Sophia (also spelled Aya Sofya) and the Blue Mosque. They are conveniently located near each other in the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul, which was the heart of ancient Constantinople.

The Hagia Sophia. Without a doubt, this nearly 1,500 year old building is one of the greatest structures ever built. The great Byzantine Emperor Justinian consecrated the Hagia Sophia (Church of the Holy Wisdom) in 537 AD. It was originally a Christian church (the center of the Byzantine or Greek Orthodox church), and became a mosque in the 15^th century after the Ottoman Empire conquered Constantinople.

An exterior view of the Hagia Sophia. In the center right of the picture is the mausoleum of Murat III (died 1599) who had 103 children!

The huge bronze doors through which the emperor would enter the church.

Byzantine Emperors were crowned here for centuries.

The spot where Byzantine Emperors were crowned for almost 1,000 years.

The Hagia Sophia became a museum in the 1930’s. Having read some of the history of the Byzantine Empire it was a thrill for me to stand in a place that has witnessed so much history and to take in the massive open space under the dome. It has undergone some modifications over the centuries to help fortify and stabilize the walls due to the weight of the dome over the nave. The main dome is 185 ft high and 104 ft in diameter. Imagine building something like this in the 6th century…

The incredible nave of the Hagia Sophia.

A building that is 1,500 years old has some pillars that are no longer vertical!

A detailed view of several of the 67 columns in the 2nd floor gallery.

The Venetians pillaged the Hagia Sophia in 1204 as part of the very strange 4^th crusade, which ended up attacking Constantinople (center of the Eastern Roman Empire) rather than defending the Holy Land. If you’ve read Dan Brown’s latest novel, Inferno, you will recognize that the Hagia Sophia plays a role in the story.

The Hagia Sophia contains the tomb of the Venetian Doge, Dandolo. He was 90 years old, blind and was the first to breach the defenses of Constantinople in 1204.

There are a number of beautiful mosaics, a few from the 6^th century and many from the 10^th century onwards, many of which are on the 2nd floor. I was surprised at how the crowds visiting the Hagia Sophia thinned out when we ventured upstairs into the surrounding gallery.

An 11th century mosaic of Christ with Emperor Constantine IX and his wife, Empress Zoe.

A 10th century mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Child with the Emperor Constantine on the right presenting the model of the new city of Constantinople and on the left the Emperor Justinian presenting a model of the new church, Hagia Sophia.

Since this is THE sight in Istanbul, the lines can be long. To avoid the lines, get the Museum Pass, which is sold in the plaza near the Hagia Sophia. As of September 2012, it cost 72 TL (Turkish Lira, about 2 TL to 1 USD) and is good for 72 hours. It allows you to bypass the crowds in line for individual tickets, saves money over the individual entry fees and gives you priority entrance into the Hagia Sophia and many other attractions.

The buttresses helping to reinforce the walls of the Hagia Sophia. The visitor’s entrance is on this (western) side.

The Blue Mosque. This mosque is another common image of Istanbul and is located just to the south of the Hagia Sophia.

A view of the Blue Mosque from Sultanahmet Square, between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.

It is called the Blue Mosque due to the stunning blue tile work in the interior.

The beautiful tiled dome of the Blue Mosque, looking up from the floor.

Men washing before worshiping in the Blue Mosque.

This is a “working” mosque, and therefore visitors are only allowed at certain times of the day around the Muslim worship services.

An interior view of the Blue Mosque.

The Blue Mosque was built in 1609 – 1616. If you visit, wear appropriate clothing and be respectful of the Islamic faith by following the guidance/rules (taking off of shoes, women wearing a head covering, etc.). There is no cost for visiting the mosque. Take time to appreciate the artwork and architecture of this huge building.

The courtyard of the Blue Mosque. The courtyard is about the same size as the Mosque itself. Note the cascade of domes above the courtyard.

Castles of Northern Wales – Part II

Caernarfon Castle. Probably the finest castle in Wales and one of my favorite in the UK. Unlike many castles, it does not occupy a high ridge or mountain top, but rather is set strategically at the mouth of the River Seiont and the Menai Straight on the western coast of Wales.

A view of Caernarfon Castle from across the River Seiont.

The town of Caernarfon, like Conwy, is enclosed by walls with the castle in a corner of the fortifications.

The Exchequer Gate, the main entrance into the the medieval village of Caernarfon.

For a map of castles visited in Wales click here.

Construction began in 1283 and was not yet complete when building efforts stopped in 1330. Caernarfon is famous for a number of reasons, not the least of which is due to it being the site of the investiture of Prince Charles as the Prince of Wales in 1969 by Queen Elizabeth. The future king of England is of course the father of Prince William and Prince Henry, known in the British military as ‘William Wales’ and ‘Henry Wales’. The first Prince of Wales, who became Kind Edward II in 1307, was born here (if you’ve seen the movie ‘Braveheart’ he is depicted as the weak heir to King Edward I) and in 1911 the investiture of Prince Edward took place here (he was an uncle of Queen Elizabeth, who became Edward VIII, but abdicated the crown and never became king) .

The Granary Tower (center left) overlooks the Upper Ward and the investiture site of Prince Charles.

The Eagle Tower (center right), and Lower Ward. Greatest of all the castle’s towers, it contains several apartments.

Caernarfon is a massive castle and has many interesting features, including octagonal (rather than round) towers and red brick bands in the walls that are reminiscent of the famous Walls of Constantinople (Istanbul), which was on purpose. The town of Caernarfon was a Roman settlement anciently, and some ruins of the Roman days are still present, not far from the castle. Just about all the towers are open for visiting, with various exhibits and great views from the viewing platforms. There are many corridors to explore too. I really loved this castle.

The Well Tower on the left and Chamberlain Tower on the right. The great hall was in front of and below the Chamberlain Tower.

The town of Caernarfon is about 22 miles west of Conwy (see my post on Conwy Castle here).

Harlech Castle. About 30 miles south of Caernarfon is Harlech Castle. This was another of King Edward I’s fortresses in northern Wales. Construction began in 1283, the same year as Caernarfon and Conwy castles. Harlech castle sits on a rock outcropping high above the surrounding landscape, with the sea visible in the distance.

A view of Harlech Castle – with its commanding position, it would have been very difficult to attack.

The view from Harlech Castle’s walls. The Irish Sea is in the distance.

In the 13^th century the coastline was just below the castle, allowing access to supplies from ships during times of siege, which were not uncommon in this castle’s history.

The interior ward of Harlech Castle. The main entrance is to the right.

The original gateway into Harlech Castle.

The longest siege was 7 years during the ‘War of the Roses’ (the long battle for the English crown in the 15^th century). The castle has a great setting and history, but does not contain as many rooms and interior features as Caernarfon or Conwy castles.

Castles of Northern Wales – Part I

If you want to see some of the best medieval castles in the United Kingdom, visit Wales, a very small country in the western part of the United Kingdom. There is a concentration of castles in northern and southern Wales. In addition, there are Roman ruins and lovely medieval abbeys and churches.

A map of locations I visited in Wales.

Wales receives far fewer tourists than England and Scotland, and yet has some of the most beautiful natural scenery and greatest historical treasures in the UK.

Northern Wales has a dense collection of castles, since it was the frontier of the English kingdom in medieval times. King Edward I established a number of castles here in the 1200’s to defend the newly conquered Welsh territory at the conclusion of the second war of Welsh independence.

Rhuddlan Castle, not far from Conwy and a headquarters for King Edward I during his conquest of Wales.

Even today, Wales feels more remote and “wild” than England. I recall driving at night through the middle of the country on my way to Hereford and not seeing lights from cars or villages for many miles.

The rugged Snowdonia area of northern Wales.

The best way to get around this small country is by car. Be forwarned that the roads are narrower than England and many are pretty much just one-lane winding country roads.

Conwy Castle. With a great setting at the mouth of the Conwy River, Conwy is one of the UK’s most classic castles and it is quite intact, with a number of towers and rooms to explore. Conwy castle and the town walls were begun in 1283 and completed in 1287.

A view of Conwy Castle from the town walls.

The outer ward of the castle with the great hall at the right.

The great hall is unique in that it is bent to conform to the natural land formation. The walls around the town are intact and add to the charm of this small town. “The smallest house in Britain” is also located in Conwy. Unfortunately I didn’t know about it until after I had left!

A view of Conwy Castle and town.

Another view of Conwy Castle.

The walls surrounding the town of Conwy.

Beaumaris Castle. Just 23 miles from Conwy is Beaumaris Castle located on the Isle of Anglesey. The castle is unique for a couple reasons – it was never finished and it is considered one of the most outstanding examples of medieval castle architecture. The moat at the entrance is picture perfect.

The exterior and moat of Beaumaris Castle.

A view of the interior courtyard of Beaumaris Castle.

Another interior view of Beaumaris Castle.

The construction of the castle began in 1295. There are many dark narrow corridors to explore, and a chapel.

One of the many dark corridors in the walls of Beaumaris Castle.

The chapel at Beaumaris Castle.

For students of medieval castle architecture this castle is a gem, since the fortifications (particularly the entrance) showcase the defensive strategy of medieval warfare.

Topkapi Palace – One of Istanbul’s Must-Do’s

One of the major highlights of Istanbul, the Topkapi Palace was built between 1459 and 1465 by the Ottomans just after their final conquest of Constantinople. This palace was the seat of power of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years. The palace is laid out around four courtyards, the first courtyard being outside the main gate.

The Gate of Salutations, the main entrance into the Topkapi Palace and Second Courtyard.

The palace is located just to the northeast of the Haghia Sophia, and commands wonderful views of the Bosphorus Strait from the innermost (Fourth) courtyard.

The Baghdad Pavilion (center-right) was built in 1639 to commemorate the capture of Baghdad by the Sultan Murat IV. The small golden dome to the left is where the sultan would break his fast after the month of Ramadan.

A view of the Fourth Courtyard. The Baghdad Pavilion (center-right) was built in 1639 to commemorate the capture of Baghdad by the Sultan Murat IV. The small golden dome to the left is where the sultan would break his fast after the month of Ramadan.

Another view of the Fourth Courtyard and pool at the palace.

Allow at least 3 hours to visit the palace, which offers (in addition to a number of palace rooms) several museums displaying the amassed wealth of the sultans over the centuries, including a treasury with stunning precious jewels, another containing weapons, and separate museums with manuscripts and a very interesting collection of clocks. No pictures are allowed in the museums.

Our friends in the Third Courtyard at the palace, the Library of Ahmet III (built in 1719) is behind them.

Numerous items which belonged to the Prophet Mohammed are found in the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle, which makes the Topkapi Palace one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites of the Islamic faith.

The Pavililon of the Holy Mantle, which contains sacred relics of the Prophet Mohammed.

The Harem rooms provide some insight into life in the palace. The Harem contained about 1,000 women (essentially slaves) brought from all over the Ottoman Empire. Their dream was to become a favorite of the sultan and to bare him a son which might lead to marriage and higher status. The Harem was ruled by the sultan’s mother, who was the most powerful woman at the palace.

Dormitory of the Harem Eunichs. Dates from the 16th century. The eunichs worked in service of the Harem. The more senior eunichs lived in the lower floor. They were recruited from all over the Ottoman Empire to serve in the palace. They supervised the quarters of the female population, and became more influential in state affairs in the 17th and 18th century.

This is where the Harem favorites lived, hoping to bear the sultan a son.

Another view of the Courtyard of the Faviorites in the Harem.

The Apartment of the Queen Mother, the most powerful woman in the Harem, and an extremely powerful member of the Ottoman Empire. She influenced political life in the empire, and regulated the relations between the sultan, his wives and children.

Summer Pavilion (Circumcision Room)
Room built in 1640, circumcision ceremonies of the crown princes were held here. Some of the most beautiful tile work in the palace is in this room.

The Hall with a Fountain.
This beautiful vestibule is where the princes and consorts of the Sultan would wait before entering the Imperial Hall.

Another view of the Hall with a Fountain room.

A visit to the palace requires two separate fees and tickets, unless you get the Museum Pass in Istanbul which is good for 72 hours and allows entry to multiple sites and immediate access to the sites without waiting in line. The cost of the pass is about $36 USD. There is a kiosk right outside the Haghia Sophia. The Topkapi Palace gets very crowded with tour groups, so I highly suggest arriving before the palace opens. We were the first ones into the Harem and had the rooms to ourselves.

A close-up of the beautiful tile work in the palace.

References: Plaques throughout the Topkapi Palace and DK Eyewitness Travel Turkey.

Oradour-sur-Glane: Remember

The town center of Oradour-sur-Glane.

A news article this past week caught my attention about the little town of Oradour sur Glane in south central France, near the city of Limoges. For most of us, the name of this town would not hold any meaning and yet it’s the sight of one of the greatest tragedies in WW II, the brutal murder of 642 men, women and children.

Oradour-sur-Glane is 23 km northwest of Limoges, France.

My wife and I, my brother and parents-in-law had the privilege of visiting this village memorial a few years ago.

My brother on a main street of Oradour-sur-Glane.

Here’s a short version of what happened:

On 10 June 1944, four days after the Allied invasion of Normandy, approximately 150 Waffen-SS soldiers entered the tranquil village of Oradour-sur-Glane. Under the pretense of an identity check and then a search for weapons, the soldiers divided the inhabitants, the women and children were marched over to the church and the men were divided into six groups and led to different barns in the town.

The SS used machine guns and hand grenades to disable and kill the women and children. The church was then set on fire, even though many of the women and children were still alive.

A plaque on the church in memory of the women and children who died here.

A view of the church where the women and children were shot and burned.

The men’s fate in the barns was similar, they were shot in the barns and badly wounded, but while some were yet alive the soldiers piled wood and straw on the bodies and set the barns on fire. One woman and 5 men somehow escaped.

A plaque on one of the buildings where men were shot and burned.

After killing all the townspeople that they could find, the soldiers set the whole town on fire and early the next day, taking stolen goods from the houses, they left. Many of the soldiers then worked their way up to Normandy where a number of them were killed fighting the Allies in the early days of the Normandy invasion.

On the orders of General Charles de Gaulle, the town was not rebuilt and the whole village now stands as a memorial to this terrible tragedy.

A treadle sewing machine in someone’s home.

Remains of autos in a garage.

Remnants of another home with what looks like an oven and bed (lower right corner).

A powerful quote by Claude Roy (1949) in the Visitor’s Center.

You park at a visitors center and a walking tunnel takes you under the road and over to the village where plaques mark the spots and in most cases denote the numbers of those who died that terrible day. This ghost town, left untouched for almost 70 years, greets every visitor who enters with only one English word: Remember.

References: Materials at the Visitor’s Center, Oradour sur Glane.

Istanbul – One of the World’s Great Cities and the Center of the Byzantine Empire

Istanbul sits astride two continents, Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus strait, which links the Black Sea with the Mediterranean.

A view of the Bosphorus from the Topkapi Palace. Europe is on the left, and Asia is on the right.

It would be easy to spend a week in this city, we spent the last 3 days of our visit to Turkey here, and were able to get a good feel for the wonders it has to offer. Known as Constantinople in Byzantine times, the city became known as Istanbul after the Ottomans finally conquered the city in 1453. I have read a fair amount about the 1,000 year history of the Byzantine Empire and really looked forward to seeing the location where so many historical events had taken place. For a map of places we visited in Turkey, click here.

A view of Seraglio Point (part of the old city) in Istanbul from our Bosphorus cruise.

The Golden Horn. The Galata Tower is on the hill. Underneath the bridge in the distance are many seafood restaurants.

There are remnants of the Byzantine Empire along with many structures from the early days of the Ottoman era.

The Byzantine Empire was an extension of the Roman Empire, with Constantinople becoming a second Roman capital in AD 324 when it was founded by the Emperor Constantine. As the Western Roman Empire (Rome) declined, the Byzantine Empire (and specifically Constantinople) flourished due to its strategic location and excellent defensive geographical position, until the Ottomans finally breached the great walls in 1453.

There are lots of things to see, here are the main places we visited:

The Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya). One of the largest and greatest structures ever built–over 1,400 years old–its size still boggles the mind. This was the place of coronations of Byzantine Emperors and it was converted into a mosque in Ottoman times. It’s now a museum, with the building itself being the main attraction. I will cover more about the amazing Haghia Sophia in a separate post.

: The 1,400 year-old Haghia Sophia Church.

The Blue Mosque. One of Istanbul’s most famous mosques (built 1609 – 1616), located near the Haghia Sophia. Its name comes from the beautiful blue tile work inside. More about the Blue Mosque in a separate post.

: The famous Blue Mosque.

The Basilica Cisterns. This underground structure dates back to the time of Justinian (6^th century) and was an underground water storage facility for Constantinople, supplying the needs for the huge city and insuring water supplies in times of siege. There are 336 marble columns and the water source was 19 km away. Going down into this dark cavernous structure with water still flowing was fun–look for the two Medusa head bases–the Byzantines must have decided they would make great building blocks!

: A view in the cisterns. The lighting is quite dark, giving the place an eerie feel.

: A view in the cisterns.

One of the two Medusa heads in the Cisterns – the other is upside down.

Bosphorus Cruise. Taking a cruise up the Bosphorus to get a better view of the European and Asian side of Istanbul is a traditional must-do, our cruise went up as far as the Fortress of Europe (about 1/3 the way to the Black Sea). There are cruises which last all day and go up to the Black Sea and back. I don’t think this long of a cruise would be worth the time investment.

: The Fortress of Europe–staging area for the final assult on Constantinople.

Walls of Constantinople (Theodosian Walls). Built from 412-422 AD by Theodosius II, these walls protected the landward side of Constantinople for a 1,000 years. The Hop On/Hop Off bus goes past much of the old walls if you want a view.

: The Theodosian Walls of Constantinople.

Church of St. Saviour in Chora. This beautiful church is a little further out from the main old city attractions. Located near the Theodosian Walls, the interior of this church has many beautiful mosaics from the Byzantine era. We took the “Hop On/Hop Off” bus to reach the walls and church.

: 14th century mosaics in the Chora Church.

: The Chora Church. 11th century, remodeled in the 14th century.

The Grand Bazaar. With over 3,000 shops, you can get lost in this maze. The Bazaar is organized into sections (jewelry, gold and silver, leather goods, etc .). With so many shops, I’m not sure how they all stay in business. The stalls begin to look the same after a while, and we only spent about 45 minutes jostling among the crowds.

: One of the many passageways in the Grand Bazaar.

The Topkapi Palace. In my opinion, along with the Haghia Sophia, this is a “must do” in Istanbul. Built between 1456-1465, shortly after the conquering of Constantinople by Mehmet II. This huge palace complex with its incredible treasures and stunning architecture gives you an idea of the splendor of the Ottoman sultans. I will cover the Topkapi Palace in a separate post.

: The Fourth Courtyard Pool at the Topkapi Palace.

Practicalities

First, stay in the old city (specifically Sultanahmet) if possible. We stayed in a little hotel (Hotel Tulip House) that was no more than 10 minutes’ walk to the Hippodrome area (near the Haghia Sophia, Blue Mosque, etc.) making it very convenient to many of the major sights and to the Golden Horn for boat rides and restaurants. I do not recommend renting a car in the city—parking and navigating the extremely narrow streets would be a nightmare.

: The Tulip House Hotel in Sultanahmet, Istanbul.

Second, get the Museum Pass. As of September 2012, it cost 72 TL (Turkish Lira, about 2 TL to 1 USD) and is good for 72 hours after your first entry. It allows you to bypass the crowds in line for individual tickets, saves money over the individual entry fees and gives you priority entrance into the sights such as the Haghia Sophia, Topkapi Palace (including Harem Apartments and museums), Chora Church, and several other museums. There was a kiosk right outside the Haghia Sophia to buy the Pass.

Third, there are trams and buses for getting to other locations around town and they are pretty cheap and easy to navigate. The old city is hilly.

Fourth, find some time to just wander around. After leaving the Grand Bazaar, we wandered the nearby streets and enjoyed viewing daily Turkish life.

: Street scene near the Grand Bazaar.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers