Tour of Sicily: Noto, Ragusa Ibla and Piazza Armerina

Sites visited in Sicily.

From Syracuse we drove to Noto, only about 45 minutes by car. Noto is a UNESCO Word Heritage site, with several stately streets, churches and palaces.

Cathedral of San Nicolo.

One of the more interesting things we noticed was that as we were driving into town, a convoy of 16 Ferraris passed us. After we found a place to park, we walked into the center of town and noticed all the Ferraris had parked in a row right in front of the town hall (Palazzo Ducezio) apparently for a meeting. A convention of Ferrari owners? Sicily is known as the home of the Mafia, and this was as close as we came to seeing any signs of it.

We climbed the bell tower of San Carlo al Corso church for a good view of the city.

San Carlo al Corso Church, Noto, Sicily, Italy

View from San Carlo al Corso Church Bell Tower.

From Noto we drove to Ragusa, another UNESCO World Heritage site (less than 60 minutes’ drive), and specifically to Ragusa Ibla, the old part of the city set on a hill top.

View of Ragusa Ibla (old city).

The drive itself is scenic, over the deep valleys on high modern bridges climbing the hilly countryside of this part of Sicily. There was a large car park just below Ragusa Ibla, which is separated from the newer part of the city by 340 steps. It is worth the climb up these stairs for a good view of Ragusa Ibla. We then went into Ibla, walking to the Duomo (San Giorgio), and then down to the town square, and out to Giardino Ibleo (gardens) overlooking the valley. Ragusa Ibla is a classic baroque town of the 1700’s.

San Giorgio Cathedral

From Ragusa, we drove to Pozzallo and caught the night ferry to Malta (see Malta blog post).

Upon our return to Pozzallo from Malta, we drove up to Piazza Armerina (about a 2.5 hour drive), to visit the world famous mosaics of the Villa Romana del Casale, which is just a few kilometers outside the town.

Villa Romana del Casale, Piazza Armerina, Sicily, Italy

Villa Romana del Casale, near Piazza Armerina

I was surprised that the entry fee was only €3, and discovered the reason was due to the closure of part of the site due to restoration. Most of the site is covered by a glass structure, like a greenhouse. The Villa is large, with many rooms. The floor mosaics are in excellent condition due to their being covered by mud since the 12^th century. The original owner must have been very wealthy to decorate the Villa so lavishly.

Piazza Armerina.

The town of Piazza Armerina is bypassed by most tour buses and tourists, and gave us a feel for a “real” Sicilian town. We wandered up and down a few streets and to the Duomo (Cathedral) for a good view of the surrounding countryside.

The next morning we drove northwest about 30 minutes to visit the ruins of Morgantina, originally inhabited around 1000 B.C. There are great views of the countryside and Mt. Etna in the distance. We found very few tourists at this site, making it a pleasant stop without crowds.

Ruins in Morgantina

Tour of Sicily: Agrigento, Selinunte, and Segesta

Sites visited in Sicily.

These three locations are the main Greek Temple sites in Sicily. From Piazza Armerina we drove through Barrafranca and Pietraperzia on our way to Agrigento. The springtime clear air and verdant green hills made this 2.5 hour drive very enjoyable.

Temple of Castor and Pollux, Agrigento, Sicily, Italy

Temple of Castor and Pollux (city of Agrigento in background).

We had heard that the scenic aspects of the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento was somewhat spoiled by the city being so close to the site. We were pleasantly surprised that the view is still quite beautiful, and the Temples sit on a wooded ridge between Agrigento and the sea. The site is large, so plan on a good walk to see the various temples. We visited in the afternoon and the light was perfect since the sun was setting over the Mediterranean.

Temple of Concord

Our B&B was in the center of the old part of Agrigento high up on the hill, and had a fantastic view of the Valley of the Temples. Several of the streets were just wide enough for a small car to pass with about 1-2 inches to spare on each side. Most tour buses go directly to the temples and do not go into Agrigento. We would recommend a visit to the old part of the city. We found a good restaurant and enjoyed climbing stairs between the levels of the old streets. We stopped at the Convento di Santo Spirito and just peeked in since it was getting ready to close. The nuns saw us and invited us in for a look and in Italian did their best to explain to us the various features of the historic abbey-very friendly people.

Temple E, Selinunte.

The next morning we drove to Selinunte (northwest along the southern coast), with a short detour through the hill top town of Caltabellotta. Of the three temple sites, Selinunte was probably the least interesting, although it has a great setting on the coastline. The site is very spread out—it is about a 15-20 minute walk between the two main temple areas (the Acropolis and the Eastern hill). If one is rushed for time, be sure to visit Temple E (490 BC) on the Eastern hill, which is closest to the main parking. The main thing I enjoyed was hiking around the ruins of Temple G (Eastern hill) with the tumbled columns and being struck by the size of the blocks for the columns. How did they erect and assemble such huge stones for these temples? Amazing.

Segesta Temple.

Segesta. Don’t miss Segesta. It is about 40 miles north of Selinunte, not too far off the road on the way to Palermo. This temple is in the countryside, and in a very peaceful setting. The temple was never finished. The car park is close to the temple. On the hill just to the east of the temple there is a 3^rd century BC Greek Theater and the ruins of the ancient town of Segesta.

Segesta Theater.

The view of the valley and temple of Segesta is incredible from the Theater. There are buses every 30 minutes that take visitors up to the Theater, or it can be walked. I wish we had walked down to the car park rather than taken the bus given the picturesque views of the temple.

Tour of Sicily: Erice and Monreale

Sites visited in Sicily.

Street Scene-Erice

Erice is a well-preserved medieval town dramatically set on a high peak southwest of Palermo, and a good overnight stop between Segesta and Palermo. The views of the coast and the surrounding valleys are well worth the steep drive up the hill.

Our B&B-Il Carmine, former monastery

Our B&B in Erice was an old monastery right inside the walls of the town. It was a great location, but the beds were hard! Our stay gave us an appreciation for the austerity the monks must have endured.

Norman Castle, Erice

Walking around the perimeter of Erice, wandering through the town square and visiting the castles make Erice a great stop.

Monreale Cathedral Interior

From Erice we drove to Monreale. The interior of the Monreale Cathedral (dating from 1172) has some of the finest gold mosaic biblical scenes in all of Europe, and I marveled at the effort and expense required to create these mosaics. Monreale is just a few miles from Palermo, so don’t miss it.

Monreale Cathedral Apse Exterior

There is a convenient bus and car park just below the Cathedral. Like many churches and other sites in Sicily, Monreale cathedral closes in the middle of the day for a couple hours, so get there in the morning or the later afternoon.

Tour of Sicily: Cefalù and Caccamo

Sites visited in Sicily.

Cefalu, Sicily

Cefalù is on the northern coast of Sicily, about 40 miles east of Palermo. We made a stop here on a day trip from Palermo. It’s fast road between the two cities, and we paid a couple small tolls as we got closer to Cefalù. The old town and Duomo are set below the rock cliffs (La Rocca) and the sea.

Cefalu Cathedral and Square.

La Rocca can be hiked, leading to some prehistoric ruins (Tempio di Diana) and 12^th century castle ruins. If we had allowed more time, I would have loved to hike up La Rocca. The Duomo of Cefalù is one of the great Norman Cathedrals of Sicily, and dates from 1131. There is a pleasant piazza right in front of the Duomo that is good for a relaxing meal. There is also a beach near the town, but it was cloudy and the sea was rough on the day we were there.

Caccomo, Sicily

While in Cefalù, I saw a picture of the small town of Caccamo, and decided to take a side trip to this town on our way back to Palermo, and I’m glad we did. It was just about 6 miles off the Palermo-Cefalù highway. Caccamo is a quiet little town set on a hillside overlooking a valley. We went through the Norman castle at the west end of town (not too much to see, it is undergoing renovation), and then wandered the streets down to Chiesa Madre di Caccamo. Drive to the eastern side of the town for a great view of the town and valley.

Chiesa Madre di Caccamo.

Excursion to Malta

Islands of Malta.

We visited Malta as part of our trip to Sicily in April. It was a good time of year to visit weather-wise. The temperatures were warm and sunny but not hot. Malta is only about 90 kilometers from Sicily, and we spent two nights and one day in Malta. We took a ferry (Virtuferries.com) from Pozzallo, Sicily to Valletta, Malta.

Sicily-Malta Ferry (Virtu Ferries).

The trip was about 90 minutes each way. At the time, it cost about $110 per person roundtrip. It is also possible to fly from Catania on Air Malta, but it costs more and would likely take more time. Since the ferry is Maltese, the schedule is less convenient if one is traveling from Sicily to Malta than vice-versa. A lot of Maltese take day trips to Sicily to visit the mountains and escape the heat of Malta in the summer. So, we left Sicily late in the evening and returned early in the morning two days later.

Malta is very dry, rocky and the most densely populated country in Europe. The main island of Malta is small with a lot of traffic in a tightly congested area around Valletta, although outside the city the roads are a lot less busy.

Maltese Bus (all are the same retro style)

We rented a car (driving is on the left side), so we could have the freedom to see what we wanted—however we would suggest a good map-via a PDA/phone or GPS system, given the somewhat confusing road system and signage outside of Valletta. The local bus system would be a good alternative to driving. Visitmalta.com is a great website for learning about this country, and they have podcasts on a variety of topics, including information all about the movies filmed in Malta.

Given the recent history as a colony of the UK, English and Maltese are the official languages, and Italian is widely spoken. Malta’s long history means that there is a lot to see and do. It is full of prehistoric sights and more recent historic events—in particular the influence is evident of the Knights of Malta in the 1500’s, giving Valletta and the surrounding harbor its massive fortifications.

City Gate, Mdina.

We used our Hilton Honors points and stayed in the Hilton in St. Julians, a very good location, about 15 minutes from Valletta. Many of the hotels on the island are located in this area. In one day we were able to visit the Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum, the old capital or “silent city” of Mdina, the ancient temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, and the city of Valletta, all without feeling rushed. We had considered hiring a tour guide for the day, given the shortness of our visit, however the guides we checked out wanted €150-200 for the day, plus a car rental, and we decided we could do our own tour easily enough.

Mdina Carriage Rides.

The Hypogeum, an underground prehistoric temple, was discovered by accident in 1902. It is underneath a building on a modern street. Without the sign on the building, there would be no way of knowing what lies underneath. A guided tour is the only way to see it and the number of visitors allowed each day is limited to 80. In our opinion it was worth it, even if a bit overpriced (about $28 per person). We could not take pictures inside the temple. We bought our tickets ahead of time (online) to avoid the chance of tickets being sold out due to tour groups and cruise ships. Ticket Information can be found on visitmalta.com.

Co-Cathedral of St. Paul, Mdina.

Mdina Street Scene.

The city of Mdina, the old capital of Malta, is quite beautiful. It is called the silent city due to a lack of traffic in the old part of the city. The city sits on a slight hill, giving it a good defensive position and providing a good view of this part of the island.

There is plenty to do here in wandering the streets, visiting the co-Catherdral of St. Paul, taking a carriage ride, visiting the dungeons, and other exhibitions.

Hagar Qim Temple

We then drove out to the temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra (they are within walking distance of each other).

Mnajdra Temple.

These temples are on the other side of the island from Valletta, and the rural roads on that side of the island can be potholed and bumpy! These are some of the oldest man-made structures in the world (perhaps 3,500 BC). The temples are near the coast, above ground, and covered with a tent-like material (similar to the Denver airport main terminal roof) to protect them from the weather. It is possible to wander around and through the structures.

Valletta Harbor.

Our final stop for the day was Valletta. We found a parking garage close to the town and walked up to the main entrance to the old town. Our biggest mistake was getting something to eat before visiting the co-Cathedral of St. John. To our dismay, we found out that it closes at 4:30 pm, and we missed seeing Caravaggio’s “The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist” (completed in 1608). This was a huge disappointment, in addition to missing the Cathedral itself. Be sure to get there before 4:30 pm! We loved the architecture of Valletta. Our favorite spot was the Upper Barraka Gardens, where we had a beautiful view of the harbor—pictures cannot do it justice, it is a beautiful setting. While we were there, we saw a cruise ship leaving and the Maltese cannon salute!

Valletta Harbor.

Another View-Valletta Harbor.

We would love to go back to Malta. We did not get to the beaches given our short stay. It would be a great vacation spot for at least a week with all the historical sites and beaches (including Gozo and Comino islands).

Across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia, Uruguay

Ferry Route from Buenos Aires to Colonia, Uruguay.

While in Buenos Aires and staying in Puerto Madero, we decided to take a ferry to Colonia, Uruguay. The town is formally known as “Colonia del Sacramento.” It was founded by the Portuguese in the 1600’s, and is now UNESCO World Heritage site.

Buquebus Travel operates ferries to Colonia and the terminal is at the north end of Puerto Madero. They have a fast ferry that crosses the Rio de la Plata (about 25 miles) in about 1 hour. The round trip cost is about $150 for two people. We spent 3 hours exploring Colonia, but an overnight stay would have been more ideal. We at least got a flavor of the historical town.

Argentina immigration and Uruguay immigration work side-by-side, so your passport is stamped by both countries (exit and entry) at the same time and in the same line, making the process quite efficient. Because of our short trip we did not bother to exchange money for Uruguay.

The Rio de la Plata is a huge estuary separating Argentina from Uruguay, at the confluence of the Paraná and Uruguay rivers leading to the Atlantic Ocean. The water is brown from the silt and does not look too inviting for a swim. My wife and I debated whether it was really fresh water given the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and the fact the Rio looks more like a huge bay than a river. We touched our fingers in the water and convinced ourselves it is indeed fresh, and were amazed at the volume of water pouring into the Atlantic from this estuary.

Colonia del Sacramento, along the Rio de la Plata. 150 year-old lighthouse in background.

It was a Sunday, and the ferry was full. We were amused that the minute the ferry left the port the duty free shop on board opened and it was packed with people buying all kinds of goods for the entire one hour journey. In fact we wondered if duty free shopping was the main reason people got on the ferry!

Since this trip was spur of the moment, we were pleased to find a tourist information desk in the terminal upon arrival in Colonia. The staff was very helpful, and provided us a map of the town and suggestions of things to see.

Enjoying the ambience of Colonia town square.

The old part (Barrio Histórico) of Colonia was only about a 15 minute walk from the ferry terminal, and the stroll through the more modern part of the town was very enjoyable, with many trees along the broad, paved streets and two story buildings that appeared to be built in the 1800’s and early 1900’s. Although we were on foot, a lot of people rent ATV’s for trips around Colonia-there are rental places right by the ferry terminal.

Cobblestone Street, Colonia del Sacramento.

The old town was a Portuguese fortified port and was a strategic commercial center. The Spanish and Portuguese fought over Colonia for centuries. It has an old gate to the town that is part of the protective wall around its perimeter, cobblestone streets, a scenic town square, and a number of small restaurants and historic buildings.

Old City Gate, Colonia del Sacramento.

The setting is picturesque on a point of land in the Rio de la Plata, with wooded areas and beaches close by, and it feels very quiet and peaceful. Well worth the trip from Buenos Aires!

Tour of Sicily: Palermo

Sites visited in Sicily.

Of all the locations we visited in Sicily, Palermo was probably our least favorite. It has some interesting sights (shown below), but lacks much open space in the central area, and with a few exceptions, lacks any real grand attractions. There is a lot of trash everywhere, so it feels somewhat dirty, run down and overcrowded. Hey, this is Italy. In these regards, it is similar to Naples. We spent a day and a half in Palermo (including Monreale) and felt satisfied with what we saw in that time.

Skeletons in the burial dress in Cripta dei Cappuccini

Our first stop was the Cripta dei Cappuccini, in Convento dei Cappuccini. Seeing all the remains of men, women and children still dressed in their finest clothes of the period and displayed in standing form on the walls from the 1600’s to 1800’s was a sight I will never forget. The Convent is in the proximity of the main road from Monreale into Palermo.

Other sights in Palermo:

Palermo Cathedral.

The Palermo Cathedral is big, but more interesting from the outside than inside. It was rebuilt many times over the centuries, and like a number of churches in Palermo has Arabic as well as Norman influences. The exterior architecture has interesting features from the 1400’s-in particular the Portico and Towers.

The mosaics of Cappella Palatina

The Cappella Palatina. Part of the Norman Palace in Palermo. This is the most stunning sight in Palermo, and almost equal to Monreale Cathedral. Founded in 1132. It has stunning gold mosaics and also intricate carved wood ceiling.

“Fountain of Shame” – Fontana Pretoria

Quattro Canti intersection – Palermo (fashion district, dates from 1600’s)

Visit to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Getting to Kuala Lumpur

The Kuala Lumpur international airport (KLIA) is very modern, clean and efficient. A taxi into Kuala Lumpur (KL to most locals) from the airport will take about 45 minutes and cost $25-30 US at current exchange rates (about 3 Malaysian Ringgit = $1). Another great way to either get to or from the airport is the KLIA Express train which costs about $10 and is quiet, smooth and fast. I took the Express back to the airport, about a 30 minute ride with no stops.

Kuala Lumpur is a huge city, very spread out, and really does not have a central “downtown” section. There are several business districts. I stayed in Mid Valley City, which is a good location with several hotels, a huge megamall with restaurants, shops and theaters, and it is only about 20 minutes by taxi from the Petronas Towers (also known as KLCC). Taxis rates can be bargained in KL, and are quite cheap (it was about $4 between KLCC and Mid Valley City).

Since Malaysia was a British colony, English is very widely spoken, in addition to Bahasa Malaysia.

Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur

The megamall provides a good place to walk (if it’s raining!) and people watch. I think going to the mall is the main weekend activity for many Malay, especially the under 20 crowd. I stayed at The Gardens Hotel and Residences, which is connected to the megamall. I had a large room on a corner of the building with floor to ceiling windows and a panoramic view (see pictures below) for about $110 USD per night.

Another view-Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur

Sights in Kuala Lumpur

Visiting the KLCC (Petronas Towers)

The Petronas Towers are the tallest twin buildings in the world (1,486 feet), and the fourth highest structures after the Burj Khalifa (Dubai), the Willis (Sears) Tower (Chicago) and the Taipei 101 tower in Taiwan. They are the premier sight in KL.

Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur

On Saturday morning around 10 am, after breakfast at a local outdoor food stall, my business colleague took me to the KLCC, where I learned that the tickets for that day were all gone. The ticket office suggested that I arrive before 8 am the next morning if I wanted to be sure I got a ticket.

The tickets for the KLCC are free, and distributed on a first come, first serve basis. Since I could not get tickets on Saturday, I went to Petaling Street instead (discussed below).

Not wanting to miss out on the Towers visit, I set my alarm for 6 am on Sunday morning, and arrived at the KLCC at about 6:40 am. To my surprise, there were already 60 or so people in line! Little did I know the line was just starting—people kept pouring in, and there were 300+ people in line by the time the ticket office opened about 8:30 am. I was glad I had brought a snack, water and my iPod for passing the time while waiting in line. I also enjoyed chatting to others in line next to me, and talked to people who were visiting from all over the world. My guess is that the lines were longer at that time due to summer holidays (August).

Petronas Towers-Sky Bridge at 41st/42nd Floors

As the line moved forward, a large screen kept us informed how many tickets were left for the designated tours (every 20 minutes) throughout the day. Once I had my ticket, I visited the small visitor’s display and then at the appointed time (with our escort guide), our group of 15 or so watched a short film and then went up to the Petronas Towers skybridge on the 41^st floor for our view. The skybridge is a unique engineering feat, not directly tied into either tower to allow movement and flexibility. It is the highest skybridge in the world at 558 feet above ground. We were given about 15-20 minutes to look around and then escorted back down.

View of Kuala Lumpur (looking north) from Petronas Towers

Since the only way to get tickets for the KLCC is get there early and stand in a long line (no online tickets or advanced purchases), I was surprised at how many people come to visit the KLCC. In addition, the observation skybridge is only on the 41^st floor (out of towers’ 88 floors). I guess it’s just the attraction of visiting the tallest twin towers in the world, even though they are no longer the tallest buildings in the world. Unless you just want to say that you’ve been up the towers, frankly I would not bother, unless you are a student of architecture. It’s much more interesting to visit the Empire State building in New York City, or the Willis (Sears) Tower in Chicago, for example—and you can stay as long as you want on the observation floor! The KLCC also has a large underground shopping mall, directly below the towers, known as Suria KLCC.

Petaling Street

Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur

I did take the time to visit Petaling Street (about 10 minutes by taxi from the KLCC). This is a famous shopping street in KL, filled with numerous small shops, with people hawking all kinds of goods, including many pirated CD’s and DVD’s. I also walked through the food stalls and meat markets. The strong odor of all kinds of freshly butchered meats and displayed fish and sea creatures in the warm, humid air was a bit more than I could take, and I was happy to get out into the fresh air.

Fish Market, Petaling Street

Bintang Walk

There is a monorail (luckily air-conditioned) service that covers parts of KL (the closest station, KLCC, is about a 5 minute walk from the KLCC itself). I rode the monorail to the Jalan Bukit Bintang station and visited the “Bintang Walk,” an area where there are foot massage parlors on every corner, Asian restaurants, and upscale shopping close by.

One of many foot massage parlors, Bintang Walk

Looking back, I wish I would have tried one of the foot massage parlors, it would have been a relaxing and fun experience, I’m sure. However it was hot, I was tired, and I was ready to head back to my cool air conditioned hotel room.

Other Tips About Visiting Malaysia

I recommend that you always carry an umbrella. It rains often, with little warning, and the water comes down in buckets. Since KL is close to the equator, be prepared for high humidity all year long. The food in Malaysia is a mix of many different cultures, if you like spicy food, interesting seafood and unusual fruits and are little adventurous, you’ll enjoy it. There are also many U.S. fast food and chain restaurant options.

Malaysia has many beautiful locations, is relatively inexpensive, and is not highly spoiled by tourism yet. In another post, I will share a day trip to the old Portuguese port of Malacca (or Melaka) from Singapore.

Trinidad & Tobago

We had the chance to visit Trinidad & Tobago in December 2007. Trinidad is located right off the coast of Venezuela between the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean, and the island of Tobago is right north of Trinidad, only about a 20 minute flight. It is a sovereign nation, and oil production and refining are the main industries. It was a British colony for many years, and therefore driving is on the left.

View of Port of Spain from Hilton Hotel

We stayed at the Hilton Trinidad & Conference Center in Port of Spain. It is a good hotel that overlooks the city of Port of Spain (see pictures below), and has a great secluded pool area. We stayed here the entire time except for an overnight trip to Tobago. The hotel is close to the Botanical Gardens and Zoo.

North Coast of Trinidad

We arrived on Friday evening at the Trinidad airport from Houston, and arranged right then at the airport to get flights the next day to Tobago on Caribbean Airlines. We had decided to “wing it” on the flights. Not a good idea on weekends—the airline seat capacity was very limited. Getting two seats on the same flight the next day (Saturday) to Tobago was a bit of a challenge, and it was impossible on the flight back to Trinidad on Sunday, so we returned on different return flights although they were less than 2 hours apart.

The flights were inexpensive, less than $50 per person round trip, and the plane was a turbo prop. The airport in Tobago (“Crown Point International Airport”) is about the smallest I have ever seen. It is almost all outdoors due to the warm climate and the airline check-in is on the sidewalk. We asked for a taxi to our hotel (a Hilton property at the time) and a man took us to his old sedan in the gravel parking lot, which he could not get to start. After about 10 minutes, we thanked him for his effort and then found another taxi to our hotel, which was about 10-15 minutes away.

Tobago Beach-Hilton Hotel

Our hotel (formerly the Hilton Tobago Golf & Spa Resort, now up for sale) was on a beautiful stretch of beach. (Take some insect repellent, however we noticed sand fleas). The hotel food and service was decent, and our room overlooked the beach, and the pool was right beside the beach. Although we were only there overnight, we really could tell that Tobago may be one of the last “undiscovered” islands of the Caribbean. There were very few tourists on our flight or on the island, and we found long stretches of deserted beaches. The island is less developed, and therefore one should keep expectations in check. Things work on “Caribbean time.”

If you want a Caribbean retreat away from the crowds, consider the island of Tobago. December was a great time of year to go.

Back on Trinidad, we had a little time on our last afternoon, and hired a car to take us up to Maracas Bay on the north coast of Trinidad. What a beautiful spot. We also got to try a shark sandwich! It wasn’t bad—pieces of fried shark in a pocket bread, with lots of condiments to add if you wish.

Maracas Bay, Trinidad

Another View-Maracas Bay, Trinidad

We love Indian food, and we probably enjoyed the best Indian meal we’ve ever had in Port of Spain. There are lots of Indian immigrants in Trinidad. While I cannot recall the name of the restaurant, it is in the same vicinity as Tony Roma’s. There are lots of restaurant choices, some of which are outdoors and very enjoyable.

Be aware that the crime rate in Trinidad is somewhat high. Take the usual precautions of keeping track of your personal items and being aware of your surroundings. My wife felt safe walking around during the day (while I was in business meetings), and with a small group you should have no problem, even in the evening.

Less Traveled Northern England-Part 3 (of 3): Lindisfarne, Bamburgh, and Hadrian’s Wall

Sites visited in Northern England

Lindisfarne

Lindisfarne or Holy Island, is an ancient sacred Christian site, dating back to 635 AD. The Lindisfarne Gospels manuscript (early 700’s) was written here. I had first heard about this area from a friend in the UK, and I was glad I had the opportunity to visit.

Traveling to Lindisfarne

Lindisfarne Castle, on Holy Island.

The only way to visit this little town, abbey ruins, and castle easily, is at low tide, not unlike St. Michael’s Mount in southern England. It is connected to the mainland by a road, and it is an eerie feeling driving out on the wet paved road over the sandy seabed and seeing lots of tide pools, seaweed, and warning signs about the fast rising tides. If you don’t want to spend the night on the island of Lindisfarne, find out about the tides and plan your visit accordingly. Having no idea of the tide schedule, I lucked out and arrived with about 2 hours to spare before the tide came back in, and it was just enough time to visit the abbey ruins and castle. There is a large car park a short way from the little town center and a shuttle that provides transportation to/from the car park and castle, which is probably a 15-20 minute walk. I took the shuttle given the warnings from the driver about when I needed to leave.

Lindisfarne Castle interior.

The castle (16^th century) is very small, and more of a grand bungalow on a rock mound. With the cold weather and the warm fires inside, I was almost transported back 400 years.

The abbey is in ruins and has a great view of Lindisfarne Castle and Bamburgh Castle. The monks at the abbey had some protection from Viking (and Scottish) raids due to nearby Bamburgh Castle. The area here is windswept and subject to storms and cold weather almost any time of year—even in October.

Lindisfarne Abbey (Lindisfarne Castle in lower right).

It gave me a sense of what it would have been like to have lived here 1200 years ago as a monk—working in a silent, cold room copying manuscripts in these frontier parts of England in ancient times.

Bamburgh Castle.

Bamburgh Castle

From Lindisfarne, one can see Bamburgh Castle (12^th century) just south along the coast sitting on a volcanic outcropping. Once back on the mainland, it takes just a few minutes to drive to Bamburgh. It is a large castle, with a beautiful wood ceiling in the King’s Hall and various displays in the Keep. I think it’s one of the finest castles in England.

Hadrian’s Wall

Hadrian’s Wall.

From Bamburgh I headed south back towards Newcastle to spend the night. Newcastle is a great jump-off point to visit Hadrian’s Wall, built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian in 122 AD. It is 73 miles long and formed the northern border of the Roman Empire at one point. I visited two spots along the Wall, Chester’s Fort and Housesteads Fort.

Chester’s Fort.

These sites are Roman camps along the wall that housed the legions. Both camps are worth visiting and have good interpretive signs. Even in October, I saw a number of hikers along the trail that follows the Wall.

Housestead’s Fort latrine.

From Housesteads I drove through the Yorkshire Dales National Park towards Harrogate, which felt like traveling above the tree line in Colorado—a barren, windswept landscape-so different than most of England.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers

Tour of Sicily: Noto, Ragusa Ibla and Piazza Armerina

Tour of Sicily: Agrigento, Selinunte, and Segesta

Tour of Sicily: Erice and Monreale

Tour of Sicily: Cefalù and Caccamo

Excursion to Malta

Across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia, Uruguay

Tour of Sicily: Palermo

Visit to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Trinidad & Tobago

Less Traveled Northern England-Part 3 (of 3): Lindisfarne, Bamburgh, and Hadrian’s Wall

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