Backpacking Upheaval Dome in Canyonlands National Park, Utah

At over 500 square miles, Canyonlands National Park, in southeast Utah, covers a vast area and offers visitors a wide array of activities, including hiking, backpacking, off-roading, mountain biking, kayaking, rafting, etc.

A view of La Sal Mountains from Mesa Arch

On our most recent adventure to Canyonlands, my father, Paul Terry, and I chose to explore the Upheaval Dome area in the northwest corner of the National Park, also known as the Island in the Sky District.

At the entrance of the Upheaval Dome crater

Of the many incredible sights in Canyonlands, Upheaval Dome is one of the most intriguing. Upheaval Dome is a massive (three miles in diameter) almost-perfectly circular crater cut deep into the many rock layers. In the center of the crater there are enormous rocks and many layers of sediments pushed vertically upward forming a dome. While no one actually knows the origin of Upheaval Dome, there are two main theories of the formation, the Salt Dome Theory, and the Impact Crater Theory. You can read more information about these two theories on the park brochure.

Descending from the high plateau into the canyon along the Syncline Loop Trail

Our backpacking adventure consisted of an 18 mile loop starting at the Upheaval Dome Trailhead and finishing at the Alpine Spring Trailhead, where my dad had parked the car (it is about a 0.5 mile walk between the two trailheads). We took three days and two nights to complete the loop, although we met a few people along the way who did the same loop in only two days.

Paul, with a view of Upheaval Dome, taken from inside the crater

We took off around midday on the first day from the Upheaval Dome trailhead and worked our way along the southern portion of the Syncline Trail. The trail down into the canyon is steep, dropping roughly 1300 feet into the canyon, but well-marked with cairns, and very doable (just take your time). We set up camp for the night at the Syncline Campsite (see featured image), at the entrance to the Upheaval Dome, and spent a couple hours that same afternoon exploring the crater.

Looking westward from inside Upheaval Canyon

The next morning we packed up and headed down Upheaval Canyon, west to the Green River. The Green River is approximately a 3.5 mile hike from the Syncline Trail. From there we followed the White Rim Road north for about a half of a mile looking for a good place to fill up on water. The river is very muddy, and even after finding a spot where the water flowed very slowly, our water pump got clogged after only pumping out about a gallon of clean water. Not knowing how much water we would need for the rest of the journey, we collected another gallon of river water, for cleaning up, cooking, and boiling it to drink if it came down to it.

Taken from near the Green River, the Canyon to the right being Upheaval Canyon

Taken along the White Rim Road, the Green River flowing in the background

After collecting our water, we headed east from the White Rim Road into Taylor Canyon for another five miles, passing the picturesque Moses and Zeus pinnacles.

Taylor Canyon with a view of Moses and Zeus in the background)

After a short rest in the shade of the Taylor Campsite outhouse, we cut off to the southeast following the Alcove Spring Trail for about a half of a mile until we found a suitable spot to set up camp. As long as you are out of the sight of the campers at the Taylor Campground, and 100 feet off of the main trail, you are free to set up camp anywhere in Taylor Canyon.

The stunning Moses and Zeus spires

On the morning of the third day we broke camp early knowing that we had a long ascent in front of us. Total, it was about a five mile hike from our campsite to the Alcove Spring Trailhead, however that included a 1300 foot ascent to get out of the canyon. Unfortunately, most of that elevation is gained over the last quarter to half of a mile. Once again, we just took our time, took plenty of rests, and by midday we were able to reach the trailhead.

Our campsite along the Alcove Spring Trail, with a view of Moses and Zeus in the background

We finally reached the car – thirsty, sunburned, sore, tired, and with hundreds of bug bites – but we had an amazing time. The scenery in Canyonlands is absolutely stunning. Walking through the desert canyons, seeing the incredible rock formations makes you feel as though you are a part of some old Western movie.

Ascending Alcove Spring Trail

On a practical side, water is a must! We each brought a gallon and a half of water, hoping to be able to replenish our supply at the Green River. Always plan to have extra water, sometimes we forget that in addition to drinking it, water is very useful for cleaning up, for cooking, etc. While water can be pumped out of the river, make sure that you bring a pump with a filter that can be cleaned out easily, on the spot, or bring some other filtration system that can better handle the thick mud and silt in the river. There is some accessible water, that has seeped up from the ground, along the Syncline Trail. Once again, you are going to want to have some sort of filtration device to drink that water. Also make sure to pack plenty of energy replenishing foods, sunscreen, bug repellent, etc.

A view from the plateau near the Alcove Spring Trailhead

We visited Canyonlands during Spring and had beautiful weather (temperatures in the mid 70’s during the day and reasonably warm at night), and I would highly recommend to others to visit either in the Spring or in the Fall as Summer temperatures can get extremely hot.

Cooling off in the shade in Taylor Canyon, a half-gallon of river water in tote

Canyonlands is located in southeastern Utah, and is only about 30 miles southwest of Moab. For other information on Canyonlands, including campground information, refer to the National Parks website.

Visiting Hanoi’s Old Quarter and Hỏa Lò Prison (aka “Hanoi Hilton”)

From Siem Reap, Cambodia we flew to Hanoi, Vietnam for the last leg of our Asian trip. In Vietnam, we went from north to south: Hanoi (plus a cruise in “nearby” Ha Long Bay), Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Posts on these other locations will be coming soon. The first thing we noticed in Hanoi was the significantly cooler weather. Coming from Cambodia it was a real shock, Hanoi was in the 60’s F in January vs. 80’s F in Siem Reap.

Hanoi Old Quarter

We spent very little time in Hanoi itself. Our hotel was conveniently located in the Old Quarter, and within walking distance of everything we wanted to do.

Royal Palace Hotel, Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam.

Our hotel, Royal Palace, in Hanoi. Decent rooms and comfortable.

Street scene in Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

The main tourist sites are in Hanoi Old Quarter, a densely packed section of the city with lots of little shops, temples tucked into hidden corners, and scooters everywhere! Scooters are the transportation vehicle of choice in Hanoi and Vietnam overall.

Rows of scooters on the side streets of Hanoi.

Hoàn Kiếm Lake

This lake and park in the Old Quarter provides a serene contrast to the busy streets nearby. There is a story of a Turtle God associated with this lake that is quite interesting. I won’t retell it here, but look it up on Wikipedia. There is a monument called “Turtle Tower” in the lake commemorating this legend.

Huc Bridge, Temple of the Jade Mountain, Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam

Leading to the Temple of the Jade Mountain (18th century) in Hoàn Kiếm Lake is the pretty Huc (“Welcoming Morning Sunlight”) Bridge.

Temple of the Jade Mountain, Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam.

Temple of the Jade Mountain entrance.

Hanoi,Hoàn Kiếm Lake, Old Quarter, Vietnam

A view of the Hanoi skyline from Hoàn Kiếm Lake.

St. Joseph’s Cathedral

A pretty odd sight in Hanoi is this Neo-Gothic 19th century Christian cathedral. It is the oldest church in Hanoi and was built by the French colonial government. According to Wikipedia, it is the headquarters of Archdiocese of Vietnam which serves 4 million Catholics across the country. From the mid 1950’s until 1990 the cathedral was closed, during this era Christians suffered major persecution. I’m glad the cathedral survived. While it cannot compare to what one finds in Europe, it still has its charm situated as it is in Hanoi.

Exterior view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, Hanoi.

Interior view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, Hanoi.

Hỏa Lò Prison (aka “Hanoi Hilton”)

If you do nothing else in Hanoi, take the time to visit the Hỏa Lò Prison, now a museum. This prison is famous for being the “home” of Senator John McCain, after his plane was shot down during the Vietnam War. He was held as a prisoner of war for 5 1/2 years, from late 1967 to early 1973 and along with other American pilots, he suffered greatly. All American prisoners were released in 1973.

John McCain, Hoa Lo Prison, Hanoi, Vietnam

A photo of a wounded John McCain after his capture in October 1967.

John McCain’s flight suit on display at Hỏa Lò Prison.

Typical prisoner supplies.

Rather than focusing on the American prisoner era, the purpose of the museum is to tell the story of the suffering of the Vietnamese people (particularly members of the Communist Party) at the hands of the French during the colonization period beginning in the late 1800’s, which laid the foundation for what became the Vietnam War. The French built the prison in 1896. It was turned into a museum in 1993.

Hỏa Lò Prison entrance.

The prison is located just south of the Old Quarter and is quite close to St. Joseph’s Cathedral (discussed above). The prison used to occupy a much larger area, and only a small portion remains, undoubtedly due to the value of real estate in this part of Hanoi. I am glad they persevered at least a portion of this prison for modern day tourists.

A snapshot of the original Hỏa Lò prison. What remains is just the section facing the street on the lower left.

Vietnamese prisoner depiction, all shackled.

Prison cell corridor, Hoa Lo Prison.

Prison cell door, Hoa Lo Prison, Hanoi, Vietnam.

Prison cell door, Hỏa Lò Prison.

Although a bit hard to see, looking into a prison cell at Hỏa Lò Prison, “bed” slab in background.

The pictures of American POW’s in the museum are quite interesting, they make it look like it was a social club!

The current Vietnamese government attempts to show how well it treated American POW’s by showing them playing basketball and volleyball. Just a day at the gym!

Here are some photos of prisoner Christmastime celebrations!

Summary

As we visited Hanoi, my sense was that it’s less progressive and dynamic than Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and that turned out to be the case. I will share more on Ho Chi Minh City in another post.

Please note that Vietnam requires a visa, which is not difficult to obtain. Complete an application on line, print out the paper work, and take this information with you to receive your visa upon arrival at your point of entry.

Our main purpose in visiting Hanoi was to serve as our departure point for a Ha Long Bay cruise–our next Vietnam post!

Exploring Goblin Valley State Park, Utah

Although Goblin Valley State Park is often overlooked by tourists who head to the more well-known national parks of south-east Utah, Goblin Valley is a beautiful park which offers a wide array of attractions for the casual visitor as well as the rugged explorer.

From Valley 2 looking westward

One of thousands of Hoodoos in the valley

In addition to many marked hikes throughout the park, visitors are permitted, and even encouraged, to freely wander and explore the more than three square miles that make up the Valley of Goblins.

Within Valley 3 facing to the West

A small, picturesque opening in Valley 3

Goblin Valley State Park consists of thousands of hoodoos (mushroom-shaped rock spires) more affectionately known as “Goblins”, giving the park its name.

Hundreds of hoodoos defending Molly’s Castle

A view of the “goblins” in Valley 3

The area was first discovered by cowboys, in the 1920’s, who were searching for their cattle and noticed the strange rock formations from an overlook. Others began exploring and photographing the area; and in August of 1964, the area was officially designated as a state park.

Valley 3 in Goblin Valley State Park

Depending on the time constraints, visitors can comfortably explore the park in a few hours. If more time is available, patrons could spend an active couple of days discovering Goblin Valley as well as the surrounding area.

Another view of Valley 3

Goblin Valley is about an hour drive southwest of Green River, Utah. From Green River you’ll take I-70 heading west until you reach Hwy 24 (roughly 13 miles). Then take Hwy 24 south (heading towards Capitol Reef National Park) until you reach Goblin Valley Cutoff Rd. Take Goblin Valley Cutoff Rd. west and follow signs to the visitor’s center.

A view of Wild Horse Butte from the Valley of Goblins

There are few amenities in the park so make sure you bring plenty of food and water. For those wanting to spend the night, there is a campground available with running water. For more information of Goblin Valley State Park visit the state park website and check out the park brochure.

Visiting Prague and Nearby Castles

Prague, in the Czech Republic, is a beautiful city with striking architecture and an interesting history. It is a city that lends itself to walking. The Vltava River (the same river that runs through Český Krumlov) divides the two main tourist hubs, Old Town Square and Prague Castle hill.

Here are just a few highlights of Prague along with two castles outside the city.

Prague Castle

As castles go, it’s a little hard to recognize Prague Castle as such from the exterior – it just looks like a collection of buildings, and yet there is a lot to do here – palaces, museums, churches and shops. The castle area surrounds a large square which includes St. Vitus Cathedral. The cathedral is so massive and “shoehorned” into such a small area, it is difficult to get a good close-up photo of this stunning structure.

A view of St. Vitus Cathedral (begun in 1344 and finished 600 years later), along with various buildings of Prague Castle.

Basilica of St. George and Convent. This red building is Prague’s best-preserved Romanesque church. It dates from the 900’s. The convent to the left houses an art museum. These buildings are part of the Castle Square.

Golden Lane. This is an old medieval street just below the castle grounds.

Golden Lane. Little shops in old medieval houses. A quaint little area in Prague’s Castle Quarter.

Charles Bridge

This bridge was built in the 14th century by King Charles IV and was the only bridge in Prague to cross the Vltava river until 1850.

On the Charles Bridge, with lots of tourists moving between the Old Town Square and Prague Castle. Artists and various vendors line the bridge along with statues. The tower (on the east end, near Old Town Square) was originally a toll booth.

The Castle (west) end of the Charles Bridge.

Old Town Square

Located on the east side of the Vltava river, this square dates from the 11th century. It was once the center for executions of convicts. A lane, called “The King’s Walk” connects Old Town Square to the famous (and busy) Charles Bridge which then leads to Prague Castle.

A view of Týn Church and Old Town Square.

The Gothic Týn Church is a major landmark of the Square and has been the main church in this part of Prague since the 14th century. Nearby is the 15th century Old Town Hall and astronomical clock, which is quite fascinating–it tells time in a variety of ways (with Roman numerals, Gothic numbers and planetary symbols).

The 15th century astronomical clock on the Old Town Hall. It was damaged in World War II and largely reconstructed.

Another view of Old Town Square and Týn Church (the astronomical clock and Old Town Hall are just to the left of the church).

A street scene in Old Town Prague.

Jewish Quarter

Close to the Vltava River, the Jewish Quarter contains several synagogues and a Ceremonial Hall which can be visited. In addition, there is an old Jewish cemetery (which was the only burial ground in Prague allowed for Jews for 300 years). Centuries ago, the Jews were required to live separately from Christians. Of the 120,000 Jews living in this area in 1939, only 10,000 survived to see liberation from the Nazis in 1945.

Old-New Synagogue. Built in 1270, it’s the oldest synagogue in central Europe.

Nearby Castles – Karlštejn and Konopiště

Twenty miles southwest of Prague is Karlštejn Castle, one of the Czech Republic’s great attractions. It is a bit of a hike up to the castle from the car park, but the route has lots of little shopping booths to keep you entertained along the way.

Karlštejn Castle. Built in 1350 to house the crown jewels of the Holy Roman Empire. Reservations are required to see the Chapel of the Holy Cross where the crown jewels were housed.

Konopiště Castle. This castle is 30 miles south of Prague. There is an interesting (and free) display of numerous statues of St. George “slaying the dragon” here.

Konopiště Castle. Construction began in the 14th century, but the castle was largely modernized around 1900 by Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Hapsburg throne. The castle houses an excellent medieval arms collection.

Getting Beyond Prague – Visiting Český Krumlov, Kutná Hora and Sedlec Bone Church

The Czech Republic is a wonderful country to visit, and while many tourists head straight to Prague, there is so much more to enjoy in this country. (I will share a bit about Prague and a couple nearby castles in my next post).

Here are some recommendations beyond Prague:

Český Krumlov

This town, located in the southern part of the Czech Republic, is about 170 (106 miles) south of Prague or 225 km (140 miles) northwest of Vienna. It is one of the most delightful medieval towns in Europe.

A view of the old town of Český Krumlov from the Krumlov Castle tower. The Church of St. Vitus dominates the skyline.

Although there have been various settlements in the area going back to 100 BCE, the town and castle we now see were founded in the 13^th century. The town was under Communist rule after World War II, and since there was no money to modernize the town, it was (thankfully) preserved for today’s tourist.

A small square in Český Krumlov.

Street scene in Český Krumlov.

The Vltava River encompasses the old town, with the Castle and tower providing a scenic backdrop.

The Vltava river makes a u-shaped bend as it winds through the town, providing scenic views and foot bridges from almost every point, in addition to being a major venue for canoeing and rafting. The town is considered the Czech answer to picturesque Rothenburg, Germany. The major sight, besides the town itself, is the majestic castle (see featured image at top of post) and the adjacent Baroque Theater sitting on the hill above the town.

A courtyard at Krumlov Castle. You can climb the tower for good views of the town.

The Krumlov Castle entrance. No photos were allowed inside the Castle.

Our hotel (Maleho Vitka) in the center of the old town was like Middle Earth (from The Hobbit), with winding corridors, unique “woodsy” rooms and furniture.

Kutná Hora and Sedlec Bone Church

Kutná Hora is about 64 km (40 miles) east of Prague and is considered a “typical” Czech city, not high on the tourist circuit. Its economy centuries ago was based on its silver mine.

View of Kutná Hora town.

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The pointy roof of St. Barbara’s Cathedral in the background. The Cathedral was founded in 1388 and has original frescoes inside.

Other than seeing the Cathedral of St. Barbara, our main reason for visiting Kutná Hora was to go to the Sedlec Bone Church. Sedlec is a little town just a mile outside Kutná Hora.

sedlec-bone-church_kutna-hora_czech-republic

The exterior of Sedlec Bone Church.

If you like seeing human bones in about every imaginable configuration, this is your place. The bones of about 40,000 people rest here.

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The Sedlec Bone Church chandelier – it includes every bone in the human body.

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Another unique configuration of bones.

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Lots of skulls and bones in every recess of the Church.

The plagues and wars of Middle Ages took their toll on the population and provided the “decorative” materials displayed by the monks in creative fashion throughout the church.

Five Must-See Arches in Arches National Park, Utah

Located in south-east Utah, Arches National Park was designated as a National Monument in 1929 (later designated as a National Park in 1971) to protect and showcase over 2,000 natural arches along with countless other interesting rock formations. Even with so much to see, visitors can get a great feel for the park and see a good portion of the arches and natural formations during a 24-hour visit. Highlighted in this post are my top 5 recommended arches (including an honorary 6^th) for all Arches National Park patrons, and especially those with a time constraint. All of the arches below are accessible via well-marked trails and none are more than 3 miles round trip.

Delicate Arch

This is the most well-known arch in the world, and the design for the Utah auto license plate—do I need to give any other reasons?

A view of Delicate Arch from Frame Arch

Located on the eastern side of the park, the trailhead for Delicate Arch is a 13 mile drive north from the visitor’s center. From the trailhead, the hike to Delicate Arch is 3 miles, round trip, with a steady moderate incline going out to the arch. I would highly recommend visiting at sunrise or sunset.

Delicate Arch at sunset with the La Sal mountain range in the background

Double Arch

Most famous from a brief appearance in the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, Double Arch is unique in that two massive arches protrude from the same sandstone façade.

Double Arch

Double Arch is only a short walk (0.5 miles round trip) from the parking lot and is in close proximity to many other sites including North and South Windows, and the Turret Arch.

A view of another formation, Balanced Rock, from underneath Double Arch

Landscape Arch

Landscape Arch is the longest arch in Arches National Park, and at 290 feet wide at the base, it is considered to be the 5^th longest natural arch in the world. Landscape Arch is located along the Devil’s Garden Trail (northern-most part of the park) and is approximately a 1.3 mile hike from the trailhead.

Landscape Arch

Navajo Arch

Not far from Landscape Arch, Navajo Arch is tucked away among sandstone rock faces. The arch itself acts as an entryway into a protected cove that gives the feeling of security and solitude. Navajo Arch likewise sits along the Devil’s Garden Trail, less than 0.5 miles beyond Landscape Arch.

Navajo Arch, from the protected cove, facing westward

Double O Arch

Double O Arch (not to be confused with Double Arch) is a set of two arches cut out of the same sandstone façade.

Double O Arch taken from the East side of the arches

Not only is Double O Arch a spectacular sight, but the hike to Double O Arch gives an incredible view of the surrounding landscape and northern section of the park. Double O Arch is also located on the Devil’s Garden Trail, roughly an additional 0.5 miles beyond Navajo Arch.

Double O Arch as seen from the West side

Corona Arch

While not located in the National Park, Corona Arch is well worth the visit for anyone spending time in the town of Moab and Arches National Park.

Corona Arch

Until a couple of years ago, Corona Arch was a popular spot for extreme sports enthusiasts who set up a rope swing from the top of the arch (See YouTube videos). BLM has since banned such activities at the arch. The trailhead for Corona Arch is located south of Arches National Park (take Potash Road from Highway 191 for 10 miles) along Potash Road. The trail itself is 3 miles round trip and is very well marked.

Another view of Corona Arch

For more information on Arches and other National Parks in southern Utah click here.

A Few Sights in Austria

Austria is a beautiful country with so much to offer the tourist. During a road trip from southern Germany to the Czech Republic, we drove through a portion of Austria and made the following stops, knowing we could not do the entire country justice. The locations below are in order of our visit, from west to east.

Ehrenberg Castle. This is not a famous castle and while the castle is largely ruined, the hike up to it is very enjoyable. It sits on a steep hill in a beautiful valley (the featured image above is another view from the castle). The castle was built in the 13^th century.

The steep approach to Ehrenberg Castle.

It is located near the town of Reutte, just 18 km (or 11 miles) across the border from the famous Neuschwanstein Castle in Füssen, Germany. There are three other castles near Ehrenberg, all of which were constructed to protect an important salt trade route in medieval times. The castles are in the process of becoming connected as a unified castle museum.

Salzburg. Salzburg is famous as the setting for the events in the musical and movie “The Sound of Music”, and for being the birthplace of Mozart.

St. Peter’s Cemetery, which inspired the graveyard hiding scene in the “Sound of Music”.

The town was an independent state until the time of Napoleon. The old town is nestled around its whitewashed castle (Hohensalzburg Fortress), from which good views of the town and surrounding area can be seen.

A view of Salzburg looking northwest from Hohensalzburg Fortress. The Salzach River meanders through the town.

Hohensalzburg is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe and was so impressive that no one attacked the town for a span of 1,000 years. We enjoyed a wonderful concert at this castle. (Interestingly, if you google “Salzburg Castle” you’ll be directed to a castle in Germany, not the castle in Salzburg!)

A view of Hohensalzburg Fortress and old town.

The old town was not too heavily damaged in World War II, even though Hitler’s “Eagle’s Nest” hideout (Berchtesgaden) is just south of Salzburg. As mentioned above, Salzburg is also the birthplace of Mozart, one of the most famous classical composers of all time. His birthplace is a museum in the old town.

Mozart’s birthplace in 1756 (Geburtshaus).

Mauthausen Concentration Camp. This Nazi slave-labor and death camp operated from 1938 to 1945. It is located 148 km (92 miles) east of Salzburg, on the Danube river. The prisoners worked in the nearby quarry and more than half its 206,000 prisoner/laborers perished from exhaustion or starvation.

The entrance to Mauthausen (from the inside looking out).

The prisoner barracks, camp wall and guard towers.

Prisoner barracks – interior.

Cremation oven (the gas chamber was next door).

A relatively small camp, Mauthausen still packs an emotional punch to the gut, thinking about the horrors that transpired here. There are quite a few exhibits and displays explaining “life” in the camp.

Melk Abbey. An amazing contrast to Mauthausen, this is a beautiful 18^th century baroque abbey located in Melk, on the Danube river, about 87 km (54 miles) from Vienna. If you like Baroque architecture, this is the place to go.

The interior of the Church at Melk Abbey.

There was an 11^th century Benedictine abbey originally on this site, but it burned down. The library and church are the two most stunning features of Melk Abbey.

Vienna. Vienna is one of Europe’s great cities. Although it’s a large city, the old part is quite compact and is famous for its music and beautiful architecture.

Street scene in Vienna.

We visited St. Stephan’s Cathedral, the Opera House, and the Hofburg Palace.

A view of St. Stephan’s Cathedral, built in the mid 13th century. The roof was damaged by fire in World War II. The tiles are decorative and local citizens contributed to the rebuilding of the roof in 1952 by buying a tile.

The famous Vienna Opera House, rebuilt after World War II. We took a tour, and our tour guide reminded me of Count Dracula! This is the home of the Vienna State Opera and Philharmonic Orchestra, where they do 300 performances a year.

A small view of the Hofburg Palace with various members of my family. The Palace is huge, and was continuously undergoing construction from the 13th century to the 20th century. It was the Imperial Palace of the Hapsburg Empire until 1918, and is still the home of the Vienna Boys’ Choir.

Outside of Vienna is the Schönbrunn Palace, which is nearly on scale with incredible Palace of Versailles near Paris. On another trip this would be a must-do.

5 Interesting Things to Do in Kochi, India

In this article our guest writer, Rohit Agarwal, explores Kochi, in the state of Kerala, India. See his bio below.

Kerala is a state in India that is blessed with inherent natural beauty, calm, peaceful beaches and very rich cultural heritage. Kerala’s financial capital Kochi is one of the most favourite holiday destinations of tourists. Kochi has variety of things to offer that fulfils wanderlust of travellers having altogether different interests. Right from marvellous beaches to huge museums and from jungle walks to folk dance theatres, Kochi is full of attractions to make your stay here memorable. To celebrate a holiday that would have a never-fading impression on your mind, here is a list of a couple of interesting things you can do in Kochi.

Go for Kayaking in backwaters of river Periyar

In Kochi, one can experience the pleasant Kerala backwaters while gliding the kayak. Many boat clubs and adventure sports companies provide excellent facilities of Kayaking in the river Periyar with complete safety and guidance.

Photo by Challlivan, CC BY-SA 3.0

The experience of kayaking in the morning while listening to chorus of birds at dawn and witnessing an alluring sunrise can be mesmerizing; while moonlight kayaking can soothe your soul and offer romantic moments to cherish forever. Considering such a perfect combination of thrill and bonding with nature, kayaking definitely should be on your list of must-do things in Kochi!

Visit a spa and get a rejuvenating Ayurvedic massage

It would be a bonus to have a perfect massage on a refreshing trip, wouldn’t it? Kochi has some extraordinarily luxurious spas that practice ancient art and science of Ayurveda to offer you a rejuvenating experience of massage. In this massage offered by the therapists trained under Ayurveda masters, you can experience each cell in your body getting relaxed and all your stress and tiredness vanishing! During a visit to a close-to-nature city, Kochi, experiencing a completely natural massage will certainly reignite your life force.

Witness the Chinese Fishing Nets in action

It is said that Chinese Fishing Nets were introduced in Fort Kochi by the Chinese explorer, Zheng He. These nets are fixed land installations, which are used for an unusual method of fishing.

Photo by Kreativeart, CC BY-SA 4.0

Witnessing the use of these ancient objects by local fishermen is a very unique experience to have. An ideal place to watch fishermen use these nets is the Vasco da Gama square. There you can actually see these nets lowering into the sea and fish being caught in nets! The Vasco da Gama square also has food stalls that serve fresh and tasty seafood. Spending an evening here enjoying an amazing view of the sunset can be a mesmerising experience.

Experience live performance of Kathakali dance

Kathakali is one of the 7 classical Indian dance forms and is a dance-drama traditional to Kerala. The grand make-up of the artists and the graceful way of narrating meaningful mythological stories enthral the spectators.

Photo by AnastesMp, CC0 1.0

Learning the art of Kathakali is not an easy task. It requires years of intense training and it is evident from the performances one can experience while in Kochi. Places such as Cochin Cultural Centre, Kerala Kathakali Centre, Greenix Village offer the opportunity to watch Kathakali performance.

Evening walk on Princess street

Princess Street is the oldest street in Fort Kochi surrounded by buildings with civil colonial architecture. The street has a number of coffee shops where aroma of coffee and fresh bread fills the air and you feel like being in a western world!

Photo by Oboe, CC BY 3.0

The street has many restaurants and yes, shops! An evening walk along the old street, catching glimpse of remnants of European architecture and shopping ‘masala’ from tiny shops is surely a refreshing experience for anyone visiting Kochi.

The list is really unending as Kochi is an amazing tourist spot, but one thing is true for sure – Once you have been to Kochi you can’t stop yourself from falling in love with it!

Rohit Agarwal is a traveller and a blogger at Trans India Travels. A true nature lover at heart, Rohit was fascinated by cultural and biological diversity in India and is in search of the most interesting tourist sites in India.

Three Great Stops Along the Romantic Road in Germany

The Romantic Road, which winds its way through scenic old towns from central to southern Germany, covers a distance of almost 400 km (250 miles). It was a medieval trade route and several towns were at crossroads on that route.

This post will cover two of those scenic towns and the world famous Neuschwanstein Castle.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Rothenburg (located on the Tauber river and hence its name) is definitely one of the most interesting (and popular) small towns in Germany. It was saved from destruction during World War II by an American general, who, knowing of its historical significance, agreed not to bombard the town if it surrendered, which it did. Thank goodness. It retains its medieval feel, and there are lots of quaint buildings; most of which were built before 1400.

Every street is a postcard view in Rothenburg.

One of the most famous street scenes in Rothenburg.

The most popular time to visit Rothenburg is December. It has a famous Christmas festival and market. With a little snow it would a picture-perfect Christmas village. We visited during the summer and had no complaints.

Another view of Rothenburg. There was an older inner section of the medieval town and hence why there are so many gates.

A timbered house, tower and section of the medieval wall in Rothenburg.

There are several “don’t miss” things to do in Rothenburg:

Walk the town’s surrounding medieval walls on an old boardwalk.
Visit Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum, which contains all kinds of creative medieval torture instruments.
Take the Night Watchman’s tour. Hans Georg Baumgartner has been doing these tours for years, and they are a blast. He tells a bit about the history of Rothenburg with lots of humor as he walks you around the old town at dusk. He conducts tours in English and German at different times.
Visit St. Jakob’s Church, which houses the Riemenschneider wood carving (Altar of the Holy Blood, 500 years old and 35 feet high).

Hans Georg Baumgartner starting his Night Watchman’s tour in Rothenburg.

The famous Altar of the Holy Blood by Tilman Riemenschneider. The carving took 5 years (1499-1504) to create. It’s located in the 14th century St. Jakob’s church in Rothenburg.

Dinkelsbühl. This great town is considered Rothenburg’s “little sister” and is only 49 km (30 miles) south of Rothenburg.

Street scene in Dinkelsbühl.

It has a moat, towers, gates, timbered buildings and a medieval wall surrounding the town (which, in addition to Rothenburg, is one of the few remaining in Germany). We found Dinkelsbühl a bit less touristy than Rothenburg. Amazingly it also miraculously escaped damage in World War II, except for a broken window in St. George’s Minster.

A tower, moat, and wall surrounding Dinkelsbühl.

One more scenic view outside the walls of Dinkelsbühl.

Don’t miss climbing the tower connected to the 15th century St.George’s Minster. The tower was originally a 12th century free standing structure, but later became part of the church structure.

The tower of St. George’s Minster is in the distance.

Neuschwanstein Castle. Just about everyone has seen a picture of this castle, nestled against the Bavarian Alps. This well-known castle marks the southern end of the Romantic Road, near the town of Füssen.

This image of Neuschwanstein was taken from Mary’s Bridge, a short hike to the south of the castle.

It’s been said that this castle was the inspiration for Cinderella’s castle at Walt Disney World. The castle was constructed by King Ludwig II, King of Bavaria in the late 1800’s.

Interior courtyard view of Neuschwanstein Castle.

He died at age 41 in 1886, having lived in his dream castle (a 17 year project) only 172 days! Only about one third of the interior was finished at the time of his death, it remains unfinished to this day.

Interior view of Neuschwanstein castle. The two figures represent the story of Tristan and Isolde, a romantic 12th century story, inspired by Celtic legend.

Looking up at Neuschwanstein Castle from the road you hike up (or take by carriage) to get you to the entrance.

While I prefer older, “real” castles, Neuschwanstein is a beauty and was built on the site of an older medieval castle. To get the best postcard view of this castle nestled in the mountains, you really have to be in a low flying airplane or helicopter. Also in the same area is the older Hohenschwangau Castle, which you see first as you arrive, but we did not take the time to visit it. Be forewarned – this area is mobbed by tourists, so plan your visit well in advance and ensure you get your tours and tickets set before arriving.

The Wonders of Angkor Archeological Park, Cambodia – Day 2

On our 2nd day in Angkor Archeological Park, we explored some temples that are further out from the main circuit, and therefore the crowds were thinner too. Many of these temples are in an area known as East Baray (a large ancient reservoir), on the eastern side of the Park.

Banteay Kdei. We really enjoyed this temple, and had it almost completely to ourselves. It is a late 12th century temple, and is close to Ta Prohm, both geographically and style-wise.

A perfect picture-window section of Banteay Kdei.

Parts of the temple are a jumble of blocks and other parts you wonder how they’re still standing.

It amazes me that you can walk around these parts of Banteay Kdei!

It was poorly constructed using a poor quality of sandstone, but who can complain after nearly 1,000 years.

Another view of Banteay Kdei.

East Mebon. This temple was originally a man-made island, rising up out of the middle of the ancient East Baray reservoir, which is now dry. It is a late 10th century temple, and was dedicated to Hindu god Shiva, and is somewhat similar in style to Pre Rup, below.

East Mebon. This temple’s layout makes it difficult to get a good photo.

Pre Rup. This is another huge (and tall) state temple (meaning it defined a king’s capital city) and was built in the late 10th century, just a decade later than East Mebon. It has several imposing towers, and is another “mountain in stone” like Bayon.

A view of Pre Rup.

The courtyard around Pre Rup.

Banteay Samre. This mid 12th century temple is a bit isolated, at the eastern edge of Angkor Park, and hence is one of the least visited temples in the Park.

The walls, entrance and courtyard at Banteay Samre.

The main temple structure at Banteay Samre. The similarities to Angkor Wat are evident.

Banta Samre is surrounded by a large wall and is complete, meaning there are no ruined sections as a result of a well-planned reconstruction, and it has many well-preserved carvings. We had this temple to ourselves.

Ta Som. Another of my favorite temples, in the style of Bayon, late 12th century. This temple is north of East Mebon, but makes sense to visit after Banteay Samre if you continue a counter-clockwise route from south to north. It is a small temple, with the entrances being the most picturesque parts.

The east entrance into Ta Som (note the faces in the tower behind the tree).

Inside Ta Som temple.

Neak Pean. This is a very unique small 12th century structure, located on a island, with eight pools surrounding it. For part of the year the pools are dry.

Neak Pean temple.

The marshy reservoir surrounding the island temple of Neak Pean.

The waters were thought to have healing properties. You walk out on a boardwalk across a strange looking shallow reservoir to get to the temple on the island.

Preah Khan. Another great, romantic late 12th century temple. From an interest standpoint, I would put it in the same class as Ta Prohm (See Day 1 post).

Exterior view of Preah Khan.

This is a large temple, with many different courtyards, and was the residence of King Jayavarman VII while his palace was being constructed in Angkor Thom.

View of carving detail at Preah Khan.

Interior hallway at Preah Khan.

This structure at Preah Khan is unusual, having round columns. It may have been constructed at a later date.

Photo-wise, Preah Khan is interesting from multiple angles, with tree roots, vines and tumbled stone everywhere.

Beng Melea. Technically we visited Beng Melea on Day 3, but who is counting! This is an early 11th century temple, about 60 km southeast of Siem Reap. We hired a taxi for the round trip, and it cost about $50 USD. I had thought that since we were going so far out of Siem Reap, it would be pretty quiet. However, this temple is now on the tourist map, and there were a number of smaller tour buses here. Even so, it is still very worthwhile.

A view of Beng Melea. Much of the structure is ruined, giving it an “undiscovered” feel.

A part of Beng Melea that we had to ourselves.

Being on our own, my son and I were able to visit parts of the temple that the tour groups ignore (or don’t know about).

A section of wall at Beng Melea.

Another secluded part of Beng Melea.

Although hard to tell, this temple is in the style of Angkor Wat, and since it was constructed prior to Angkor Wat, it may have served as a prototype for that great structure.

Angkor Archeological Park and the surrounding area can mesmerize the tourist for days. If you get a chance, visit this astounding cultural and architectural gem.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers