Kraków, Poland – One of Europe’s Finest Cities – Part 1

When people think of great European cities, the standard list includes Paris, London and Rome, which of course all certainly belong on the list. Not too many people would name Kraków, and largely because they don’t know much about it.

The Royal Way in Kraków, which is the main thoroughfare through the old town. Very little vehicular traffic allowed in the old town, making it a pleasant place to walk.

Kraków was our favorite city in Poland and it’s one of our favorite cities in Europe. We love it because there are many things to see, it has a very classy feel to it, the people were wonderful, we had a great place to stay and the food (if you like hearty fare) was excellent. Kraków is a large, modern city, but the charming old town is relatively compact.

Our perfect apartment in Krakow, just a few minutes by foot from the old town. It is called Krakow Parkside Apartments. Highly recommended.

This is the first of three posts on Kraków. This great city also makes a good base for exploring the remains of the infamous Auschwitz Death Camps as well, which are located about 66 km (41 miles) west.

For a map of places we visited in Poland, click here.

Below are a few of the things that make Kraków a great place to visit. The list of things to see could go on and on, with a number of other museums, churches, statues and other historic places that we simply did not have time to visit.

Horse Carriage Rides. A highlight of visiting Kraków is taking a carriage ride around the old town. The rides start in Rynek Square and go to the north edge of old town before heading to south to Wawel Castle and returning to the Square.

The stately horse carriages in Rynek Square.

The ride cost about $10 US per person. It was a fun way to see the city and to enjoy the atmosphere. The carriages, drivers and horses are dressed up and ready to show you the town.

Getting ready for our ride.

Kraków Fortifications. Much of the original city was destroyed in the 13^th century by the Tatar invasions. The walls and towers we see today were built afterwards in the 13^th – 15^th centuries.

The Barbican, one of the few surviving structures of its kind in Europe. It was built around 1498. It has seven turrets, 130 loopholes (for firing arrows) and the walls are 3 meters thick. It helped defend the Florian Gate, which is part of the remaining defenses on the north side of Kraków’s old town.

What remains of these fortifications is on the north side of the old town. Although many of the old walls were torn down in the 19^th century, there is a ring-shaped park and walking paths that encircle old Kraków, following the foundations of the city walls.

Part of the old city walls, near the Florian Gate, the only one of the eight original gates remaining.

For a pleasant stroll and variety in exploring the town, take advantage of these paths.

Rynek Główny (Square). This is the heart of old Kraków and is the largest medieval square in Europe. Its layout was drawn up in 1257. During our visit, there was a festival going on, with lots of music, dancing, and numerous food stalls – we found it hard to pass any of these up! Sausages, potatoes, breads, deserts and other Polish specialties were to be found everywhere.

A roasting pig on Rynek Square.

The tower on the left is the only remaining part of the 15th century Town Hall. On the right is the Cloth Hall, both are in the central part of Rynek Square.

Also in Rynek Square is the Cloth Hall, which was the center of Kraków’s medieval clothing trade. There are numerous shops here (and a good place to get gelato), as well as the ticket office and entrance for the “Rynek Underground” exhibit, which provides an extensive view of excavated ruins underneath the Square, and exhibits of medieval life in Kraków.

A view of some of the medieval ruins in the extensive underground displays. Hard to get good photos, pretty dark down there.

Come to the Square at night for special atmosphere. There are lots of good restaurants around the Square.

Rynek Square at night.

St. Mary’s Church with its uneven towers faces Rynek Square.

Rynek Square is also the location of St. Mary’s Church, one of the most beautiful churches in Poland (and Europe for that matter). It is home of the Veit Stoss wood-carved pentaptych (three panel) altarpiece which took 10 years to complete and was consecrated in 1489. It is magnificent, and is considered one of the most important pieces of medieval art of its kind.

The marvelous Veit Stoss pentaptych in St. Mary’s Church, Krakow.

The pentaptych is only opened at certain times during the day, so check across the street (to the south of the visitor’s entrance) for times and tickets.

Another view in St. Mary’s Church – it takes awhile to absorb all the artwork in this church.

Church of SS Peter & Paul. This is a Jesuit church dating back to 1583. It’s on the Royal Way from Rynek Square to Wawel Castle, and has statues of the 12 apostles on columns at the front gate.

Church of SS Peter & Paul. Note the statues of the 12 apostles in front.

We were able to attend a concert in the large open interior on a Sunday evening, with a talented ensemble playing a number of classical compositions, including Vivaldi, Chopin, Bach, Mozart, Handel and others. This was particularly delightful given the setting and acoustics of the church.

The musicians at our concert in the Church of SS Peter & Paul

In future posts I will share some images of Wawel Castle and the Jewish Quarter, including Schindler’s Factory (recall the epic Steven Spielberg movie “Schindler’s List”).

Reference: Lonely Planet Travel Guide – Poland

Tallinn, Estonia – A Medieval Gem

If Tallinn were located in France or Germany it would be overrun with tourists. Since it’s on the Baltic coast of Estonia, most tourist traffic comes via cruise lines and only over the summer, which is how and when we visited in 2013. I love historical places and Tallinn is high on my list of great medieval towns. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A view of Old Town Tallinn (Toompea Hill) from St. Olav’s Church (described below).

The city was founded in 1154, and the historic part of town hasn’t changed much in over the past 600 years. Old Town is about a 10-minute walk from the cruise ship pier and has a number of things to see (including one of the weirdest tourist sights I’ve visited).

The Old Town is walled with a number of towers, gates and narrow streets.

A large map of Tallinn Old Town greets cruise ship visitors.

Here are a few of Tallinn’s interesting sites:

Toompea Hill. The “Upper Town” is the setting for Tallinn’s oldest church (St. Mary’s Cathedral), a Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Alexander Nevsky Cathedral) and Toompea Castle, which is the home of Estonia’s Parliament. The Hill provides great views of the Lower Old Town.

Exterior view of the Cathedral of St. Mary, Estonia’s main Lutheran church. Originally built in 1233.

The interior of the Cathedral of St. Mary.

The Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox Cathedral was built in 1900, and although it’s not ancient, it has a number of beautiful mosaics and is a testament to Russian influence in this country.

Town Hall and Square. The Town Hall as built in the early 1400’s and is the best preserved Gothic town hall in Northern Europe.

The Town Hall and Square. The center of Old Town Tallinn.

Old Town Walls and Towers. Two kilometers of the old walls are still standing. Just walking around these walls is a pleasure, and several towers are open as small museums, with underground passages that can be explored near Toompea Hill.

Fat Margaret (or Stout Margaret) Tower. This is the first sight most visitors see, the tower guards a main entrance into the Old Town and is now a Maritime museum.

Part of the Old Town towers and walls, an area called Towers Square.

My daughter and son by another part of the walls. The walls are 4 meters wide in this area.

Old Town Streets. It’s worth just wandering the streets to see what you come across – there are many lovely shops and old buildings to wander around.

St. Catherine’s Passage, one of Tallinn’s most picturesque streets and home to St. Catherine’s Guild, a collection of craft workshops housed in 15th -17th century rooms.

Street scene in Old Town, Tallinn.

The entrance to the House of the Brotherhood of the Black Heads, a guild of unmarried German merchants that had responsibility for the town’s defenses in medieval times.

St. Olav’s Church. For about 75 years (1549 – 1625) this 14^th century Gothic church was the tallest building in the world. You can climb the tower for great views of the Old Town and surrounding area. The spire is 124 m (406 ft) high.

View of Tallinn’s walls and towers from Toompea Hill. St. Olav’s Church has the tall spire on the right.

St. Olav’s Church – it’s hard to get a good picture – such a tall building in a compact space.

Taking the stairs up the tower at St. Olav’s Church.

Patarei Prison. This fortress, which was turned into a prison in 1920, warrants its own blog post. It is about a 15-minute walk from the Old Town and inside it looks like the prisoners just walked out – bedding, books and all kinds of things were left behind. The prison was closed in 2002 and is now a museum (of sorts). More to come on this fascinating place!

My new cell at Paterei Prison!

Alexandria – One of the Great Cities of Ancient Times

Out of all the places I’ve visited in Egypt, Alexandria probably had the least to offer the tourist, and yet there was no way I was going to pass up an opportunity to go there, given its illustrious history. I’ve read that “Alexandria is the greatest historical city with the least to show” and that seems to be true, unfortunately. For a map of places visited in Egypt, click here, scroll to bottom of page.

A typical street scene in Alexandria. Very non-touristy!

Buying some fruit from a local Egyptian vendor.

Alexandria was the home of Queen Cleopatra and the city rivaled Rome in beauty. It was the center of scientific learning with a world-renown library (700,000 volumes). It also had a huge lighthouse (called Pharos) that was a wonder of the ancient world (394 feet high) and was in working order for 1,700 years (until an earthquake toppled it in 1303).

Alexandria was founded by Alexander the Great (in 331 BC) and was one of the greatest cities of antiquity. Alexander is buried here, but the exact location of his tomb is not known. The city of Cleopatra’s time is now largely under water and about 18 ft. below street level. Every so often there are major finds, such as the Roman catacombs discovered in 1900 when a donkey disappeared through the ground.

Here are a few things to see in Alexandria:

Roman Amphitheater (Kom Al-Dikka). This is the only Roman Amphitheater in Egypt. It is well preserved and if you stand in the right spot on the center stage, the acoustics allow you to hear your voice being amplified around the theater. There are more excavations going on in this area.

The Roman Amphitheater in Alexandria.

Pompey’s Pillar and Serapeum. This area contains several above-ground ruins and underground chambers. The Pillar was erected in AD 291 to support a statue of the Emperor Diocletian and is still standing in its original spot. The pillar takes its name from the Roman general Pompey who was murdered by Cleopatra’s brother (although he has nothing to do with the pillar). The Serapeum was a large temple complex which also had a huge library. The underground chambers show the foundation and library remains.

Pompey’s Pillar and the surrounding ruins of the Serapeum.

Roman Catacombs (Kom Ash-Shuqqafa). Close to Pompey’s Pillar are the Roman catacombs, which is probably the most fascinating historical site in Alexandria. Unfortunately, I could not take pictures in the catacombs (except for one quick shot below). There are three underground levels, the lowest of which is flooded, but the other two levels are open and can be visited with a guide—even the 2^nd level has some water on the floor, which you avoid by walking on planks. You descend via a staircase and enter a large rotunda with numerous rooms branching off in every direction. The catacombs were constructed in the 2^nd century AD and eventually housed the remains of 300 people. Before visiting, be sure to check opening hours and days of the week.

An ancient sarcophagus at the entrance to the Roman catacombs.

One sneaky photo in the Roman catacombs.

The Al-Corniche. Alexandria is a long narrow city built along the Mediterranean shoreline. The Corniche is a popular socializing spot for locals, especially after dark, with street vendors selling all kinds of snacks and young couples strolling hand in hand enjoying the fresh breeze.

The Corniche in Alexandria.

From the Corniche you can glimpse Fort Qaitbey, which was built in 1480 on the remains of the ancient Pharos lighthouse. The fort is open to the public but our short visit (just one full day) did not afford us time to go out and see it.

Reference Source: Lonely Planet Egypt

Fort Qaitbey is in the far distance at the right edge of the picture.

Częstochowa – Poland’s Spiritual Center

Between 4 and 5 million visitors from 80 countries visit this town each year. They come to visit the Monastery of Jasna Góra, and specifically to see the 14^th century Black Madonna painting which according to legend was painted by St. Luke the Evangelist (author of the Gospel of Luke in the New Testament). It is credited with many miracles, such as the story of a looter who in 1430 attacked the painting with his sword two times but fell in pain and died before he could strike it a third time (the marks from his attack are visible).

Entrance to the Jasna Góra Monastery, on the south side of the complex.

The Black Madonna painting. It’s apparently black from centuries of soot. No one really knows for sure of its origin, but it is credited with saving the town during the Swedish aggression in the 1600’s.

This shrine is one of the great pilgrimage spots in the world, and famous visitors have included Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI. Many pilgrims arrive on foot after journeys of as long as 20 days. The painting is in the 14^th century Chapel of Our Lady and may be viewed during the day except from 12:00 – 1:30 pm and after 9:20 pm when it is covered.

The 14th century Chapel of Our Lady at Jasna Góra Monastery (the Black Madonna is at the lower center of the image, behind the gate).

In addition to the Chapel of Our Lady, be sure to visit the Basilica which dates from the 17^th century and has many Baroque features—it reminded me of monasteries in Germany and Austria (such as Melk Abbey).

The Baroque Basilica at the Jasna Góra Monastery.

The organ pipes in the Basilica of Jasna Góra.

Other attractions include several museums, a treasury and the Bell Tower, Poland’s tallest historic church tower at 106 meters (348 feet), which can be climbed.

The asymmetrical architecture inside the Monastery, a bit like Wawel Cathedral in Kraków.

Częstochowa makes a great overnight stop from Toruń to Krakow. The main street (a long Polish name which is abbreviated to NMP) running directly east from the Monastery and adjacent Park Staszica has a number of good restaurants and hotels.

The Jasna Góra Monastery at sunset – it sits on a hill overlooking the town of Częstochowa. The Bell Tower is 106 m high.

We arrived in the late afternoon and visited the Monastery at sunset, which was perfect. There was an outdoor service going on during our visit, which added to the atmosphere of the setting.

Climbing Mt. Sinai – An Unforgettable Experience

One of our most memorable experiences in Egypt was visiting St. Katherine’s Monastery and climbing to the summit of Mt. Sinai. It’s about a two and a half-hour drive through the unforgiving interior desert landscape from the resort of Na’ama Bay to St. Katherine’s Monastery, where the hike begins to Mt. Sinai.

A view of the Sinai peninsula landscape on the way to Mt. Sinai.

St. Katherine’s Monastery

This area has been a pilgrimage site for centuries and is holy ground to three religions: Christians, Muslims, and Jews. According to the Old Testament, this is the place of numerous revelations by God (including the Ten Commandments) to the prophet Moses. The Israelites camped in this area for some time after miraculously escaping from the Egyptian armies by crossing the Red Sea on dry land.

The Bell Tower at St. Katherine’s Monastery. It houses 9 bells donated by Tsar Alexander II from Russia.

Considered one of the oldest continually functioning monastic communities in the world, much of the compact monastery is off limits to tourists, but it is still worth a visit and is the spot where all tourists begin their hike up Mt. Sinai.

A view of the Monastery walls and some local camels.

The 20 or so monks living here are Greek Orthodox and the first church was built here in about 337 AD, commemorating the spot where God spoke to Moses in the form of a burning bush. Interestingly, a descendant of an evergreen bush which grows nowhere else in the Sinai is found here.

This evergreen is believed to be a descendant of the burning bush. Transplanted here in the 10th century from the nearby chapel of the same name.

The Byzantine Emperor Justinian fortified the location and built the main Basilica of the Transfiguration in 527 AD on the grounds of the original church which became the origin of the monastery.

Mt. Sinai

There are two ways to climb the Mount (altitude: 2,285 meters or 7,500 ft). There is the “camel path” which is wider and more “gently” sloping, or taking what is called the “Steps of Repentance” route– a very steep climb of 3,750 steps (hard on the knees) which was built by a monk doing penance—what a price to pay! We took the camel path, and it joins the “Steps of Repentance” path 750 steps below the summit.

On the trail with Mount Sinai behind me – about halfway up.

Going through a narrow gorge. Getting ready for the final ascent.

Hiking up the last 750 steps to the summit. In the distance below is Elijah’s basin. The cypress tree is thought to be 1,000 years old. Those who traveled with Moses up the mountain waited here while he ascended to the summit to speak with God.

You can take a camel up the path but we decided to hike it, and even at a good pace it took us about 2 hours to reach the summit from the Monastery. This is not an easy hike, and several members of our group ended up not making it to the top.

The Chapel of the Holy Trinity at the summit of Mt. Sinai.

A magnificent view from the top of Mt. Sinai.

A lot of tourists leave at around 3 am to reach the summit for the sunrise. We were not that ambitious and arrived at the summit around noon. My wife and I had the top of this sacred mountain to ourselves at that time of day. The views are incredible and although the landscape is harsh (reminding me a bit of Death Valley), it was thrilling to be on the Mount which holds so much historical and religious significance to many people.

References: Lonely Planet Egypt, DK Eyewitness Travel Egypt.

Toruń – Poland’s Best Preserved Medieval City

About 106 miles (or 170 km) south of Gdansk is the medieval city of Toruń. It has been well preserved over the centuries and fortunately was not damaged in World War II. Toruń is the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus (1473 – 1543), the great mathematician and astronomer who placed the sun (rather than the earth) at the center of our solar system. His home is here along with his statue in the main square.

Nicolaus Copernicus’ house in the center of Toruń.

Statue of Copernicus and the Town Hall tower, which you can climb for great views.

There is a lot to see in Toruń, including some lovely medieval churches, the town square, the city walls and other historic buildings. The Town Hall is now a Regional Museum that includes other sites around Toruń. Be sure to climb the tower of the Town Hall to get a great view of the old town and surrounding countryside.

A view of Toruń, looking northeast along the Vistula river, from the Town Hall Tower.

A view from the Toruń Town Hall Tower – The huge, late 13th century St. Mary’s Church is on the right.

The interior of St. Mary’s Church. There are some well-preserved frescoes on some of the walls.

The ruins of the Teutonic Castle (from the early 1200’s) are limited; it was destroyed by the townsfolk in 1454 as part of a rebellion of the Teutonic rule—they did a good job!

The ruins of the Teutonic Knights’ castle in Toruń.

Some scary displays in the dungeon of the Knights’ castle in Toruń.

However, there is a good display in the cellar/dungeon of the castle and a number of signs around the castle grounds explaining its history and features. The Latrine Tower and connecting bridge are well preserved.

The Latrine Tower of the Teutonic Castle in Toruń.

We found that parking a car is nearly impossible in the old town, so we found a great car park right outside the city walls near a bridge over the Vistula River that was within walking distance of our apartment.

Toruń’s city walls and the 15th century Burghers Hall, which was the home of the Brotherhood of St. George, whose membership comprised the elite of Toruń.

We had a lovely stay in the old town at a place called Apartamenty Anielskie. Toruń is definitely worth an overnight stop. Take a walk along the east (river) side of the town to get some great views of the old city walls and gates.

The Leaning Tower, an interesting part of the city walls of Toruń. It started to lean because of the soft ground – about 5 degrees so far, but still standing!

The Sinai Peninsula – A Totally Different Egypt and Gateway to the Red Sea

After two weeks touring the dusty ancient ruins of Egypt, we felt like we had traveled to a different planet when we arrived at the Sharm el-Sheikh Airport from Luxor. While both airports are modern, the minute you step outside in Sharm el-Sheikh you notice the difference – the more humid air, and the end of bargains. The taxi drivers wanted E£ 200 (at the time about $40 USD) for a 2-3 mile ride to our hotel that would have cost E£ 15-20 in other parts of the country, and they would rather walk away than bargain.

My sister on Na’ama Bay beach.

Lots of water toys available for rent in Na’ama Bay.

We stayed at the Hilton Hotel in Na’ama Bay (a bit more resort-like and next door to the larger town of Sharm el Sheikh) which felt more like Cancun than Egypt – a promenade with lots of restaurants, posh hotels and tourists—especially from Russia.

The promenade at Na’ama Bay – lined with restuarants and shops.

Even though it’s more of a cushy resort area, nice hotels can be had for about $50 US per night.

One of the nine pools at the Hilton Sharm Dreams Resort. Great hotel.

This is a divers’ paradise. The Red Sea has some of the best diving in the world. Lots of tour companies will take you out for day trips to the reefs and shipwrecks. Unfortunately we’re not divers, but we did enjoy snorkeling. My sister and her husband took a glass-bottom boat tour.

One of the glass bottom boat tours available in Na’ama Bay.

The water is incredibly clear and full of life, with unique coral formations and marine species not found elsewhere on the planet. We took a taxi out to Ras Mohammed National Park and did some snorkeling from the beach. Lots of dive boats were just off shore; this is one of the best spots in the Red Sea.

The imposing entrance to Ras Mohammed National Park.

An incredible beach at Ras Mohammed National Park.

One of the coral walls that goes straight down into the depths at Ras Mohammed National Park.

Sharm el-Sheikh was claimed by Israel after the 1967 war (it was returned to Egypt in 1982 and that is when development took off), and it experienced some terrorist activity about 10 years ago. However, it is probably one of the safest tourist spots in Egypt now. There are security barriers and guards at the entrance to the town. Your car may be checked, but this is for your protection as a tourist.

A view of the shore heading back to Na’ama Bay from Ras Mohammed National Park.

It would be a huge mistake to visit Egypt and not go to the Sinai. We also climbed Mt. Sinai (think Moses and the 10 Commandments) and I will discuss that day trip in a separate post.

Salamanca – Home of One of the Oldest Universities in Europe

Along with Toledo, Salamanca is one of my favorite cities in Spain. It has so much to offer in a compact area: an ancient university, two old cathedrals, a beautiful Plaza de Mayor, an old Roman bridge, and other remarkable sights. Salamanca is 132 miles (212 km) northwest of Madrid.

Salamanca is northwest of Madrid.

The founding of the city goes back to pre-Roman times. The stately architecture of the old town gives it an aura of distinction, which has been earned–Salamanca has been an important center of learning for a thousand years .

The narrow streets of Salamanca.

Plaza de Mayor

Although “Plazas de Mayor” are found throughout cities in Spain, one of the grandest is Salamanca’s. I had heard how great it was, but didn’t understand until I visited. This 18^th century plaza is one of Spain’s largest, bordered by majestic architecture.

Salamanca’s great Plaza de Mayor.

The Plaza Mayor is a great place to rest and absorb the wonderful surroundings on a sunny afternoon.

Catedral Vieja and Catedral Nueva (Old and New Cathedrals)

These two cathedrals adjoin one another. The old Romanesque cathedral is from the 12^th and 13^th centuries and the “new” 16^th century cathedral is more Gothic and Baroque in its design. Luckily the old cathedral was preserved, rather than being torn down to make room for the new cathedral.

Although hard to tell, the old cathedral is on the right and the new cathedral towers over the old.

They both have beautiful frescoes, altarpieces and other precious art. Be sure to go up to the roof for a great view of old Salamanca.

View of Salamanca from the roof top of the Cathedral.

Salamanca University

Founded in 1218, Salamanca University is one of Europe’s oldest and still functions as a top university in Spain, attracting students from around the world. One of the lecture rooms still has its original furniture.

The 13th century student seating in this lecture hall is original.

The elegant courtyard of Salamanca University.

Columbus met with geographers here to make his case for his famous western voyage to the Indies (which of course turned out to be the Americas).

The Patio de las Escuelas of Salamanc University.

Other Sights

Venture south of the old town to take a look at the Puente Romano (Roman Bridge), built in the 1^st century AD. The Torre del Clavero (a 15^th century tower), other old churches, convents and museums also beckon.

The 1st century AD Roman Bridge in Salamanca.

The intracately carved entrance to the Iglesia-Convento de San Esteban, a 16th century Dominican monastery.

Huge ancient manuscript in the Iglesia-Convento de San Esteban.

The Torre del Clavero (15th century) in old Salamanca.

Just wandering through the old town is a joy. Be sure to visit Salamanca on your next trip to Spain!

Three Must-Do Sights on the West Bank of the Nile (Ancient Thebes)

As mentioned in my other post on Thebes (located on West Bank of the Nile), there is lots to see in this area just across the river from Luxor, Egypt. The three sights below are “must do’s”, two of which are major tourist sights (the third receives far fewer tourists). For a map of places visited in Egypt click here.

Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is the number one tourist spot in ancient Thebes. It’s the location of the tomb of the world famous King Tut and many other pharaohs from the 18^th – 20th Dynasties (1550-1069 BC).

At the entrance to the Valley of the Kings.

Some of the tombs were known and open as far back as Greek and Roman times and others were discovered more recently (such as King Tut’s, which was just discovered in 1922). Many of the artifacts from King Tut’s tomb are found in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo (a new Grand Egyptian Museum is set to open in March 2015 near the Giza Pyramids). Your ticket will allow you to see three tombs in one day and the number of visitors to each tomb is limited (King Tut’s requires a separate ticket).

In one of the plain chambers of the tombs I quickly took this picture.

It is just about impossible to get meaningful pictures in the Valley of the Kings since photos aren’t allowed in the tombs and the exteriors are just dark entrance ways with signage. However, the tombs themselves are incredible. Many of the tombs are accessed via long corridors going deep into the hillsides, some have chambers in addition to the main tombs. These tombs are carved out of solid rock and the walls and ceilings of most corridors and rooms are highly decorated with beautiful paintings.

Climbing up to the Tomb of Tuthmosis III – the tomb was dug 100 feet above the valley floor in an attempt to keep thieves out (didn’t work!).

The sign at the entrance of the tomb of Tuthmosis III (1479 – 1425 BC). The “KV 34” means it was the 34th tomb discovered in the “Kings Valley.”

Sixty-two tombs have been excavated to-date, and there are probably more to be discovered. This remote location was chosen to thwart grave robbers, but even though many tombs were hard to reach, robbers found a way into almost all of the tombs.

Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir al-Bahri)

The Temple of Hatshepsut at the base of a dramtic limestone cliff.

This temple was constructed by Queen Hatshepsut in the 18^th Dynasty (she reigned from 1473-1458 BC). The setting is dramatic and the temple is in good condition and from a distance is almost looks new—hard to believe it’s 3,500 years old.

The decorated rooms of the Temple of Hatshepsut.

A carved pillar in the courtyard of the Temple of Tuthmosis III next to the Temple of Hatshepsut.

There are many carved and painted reliefs still in good condition even after thousands of years. There are also some older temple ruins on the site. Be prepared for the crowds here.

Medinat Habu Temple

This temple is huge, and 2nd to only Karnak in size (Karnak is located on the East Bank north of Luxor). However, it receives fewer visitors since it is a little off the beaten track from the Valley of the Kings and the Temple of Hatshepsut.

My mother-in-law, wife and sister in front of the Medinat Habu Temple.

The carved pillars in the Second Court of Medinat Habu Temple.

It is the mortuary temple of Ramses III (reigned 1184 – 1153 BC) and was patterned after the mortuary temple of Ramses II (the Ramesseum, nearby). Medinat Habu has survived in much better condition than the Ramesseum.

Another view of the Second Court of Medinat Habu Temple.

The temple area was inhabited until the 9^th century and was the center of economic life in Thebes for centuries. Allow a couple hours to wander the extensive ruins.

The Chateaux of the Loire Valley, France

One of my favorite areas of France is the Loire Valley, located in the central part of the country, about 115 miles (185 km) southwest of Paris. There are over 300 chateaux in this region, all harken back to the days of the French aristocracy. The ostentatious display of wealth as evidenced by the chateaux and their extensive lands and gardens helped lay the groundwork for the French Revolution in 1789. Many of the chateaux were built in the 1500’s, and a number of them are open to tourists. I love visiting historical sights and these elegant chateaux are fun to explore, each is unique in its architecture and many have beautiful gardens also.

Blois Chateau, in the heart of the city of Blois.

I highly recommend spending at least a couple days in the Loire Valley to see several of these beautiful structures. Good bases for exploring the area include Blois, Amboise or Tours. I have a hard time picking a favorite. Some are very large (Chambord is huge) and others are smaller but have more elaborate interiors and decorations. Although it’s called the Loire “Valley” the area is quite flat, agricultural, and a popular bike route.

Chenonceau

Chenonceau (along with Chambord–below) is considered the Renaissance masterpiece of the Loire Valley. The main castle was built from 1513-1521. It was the home of the mistress of King Henri II (Diane de Poitiers) in the mid 1500’s.

A view of the Chenonceau gardens and castle.

There are a number of beautiful tapestries here, but it was hard to get interior pictures as they weren’t allowed.

The gallery of Chenonceau spanning over the River Cher.

The long two-story gallery spanning across the Cher River was built in 1570 by Catherine de’ Medici (wife of King Henri II) and was used as a hospital ward in World War I. In World War II, the far bank of the river was the border of the free zone of France and passing through the gallery meant escaping from Nazi occupied France.

Chambord

The largest of the Loire Valley chateaux, Chambord was begun by King Francios I in 1519, and later finished by Louis XIV in 1685.

A view of the keep (central towers) of Chambord Chateau.

It has 440 rooms and was a “hunting lodge.” One of the most unusual features is the roof, with highly decorated towers and chimneys.

The roof towers and chimneys at Chambord Chateau.

The interior is largely bare and open.

The double-helix Grand Staircase – note the two stairways.

The Grand Staircase, with the “double helix” construction, was supposedly designed by Leonardo da Vinci. The design means that someone going up the staircase and a person going down would not meet!

Chaumont

Chaumont was built in 1445 on the grounds of an earlier castle from the 10^th century. The rebuilt chateau was designed less for defensive reasons but still has the feel of a medieval castle with a drawbridge, turrets and crenellated walls.

Chaumont Chateau has the look of a medieval castle.

Another view of Chaumont Chateau.

When Diane de Poitiers was kicked out of Chenonceau by Catherine de’ Medici after King Henri II’s death, she was moved here. While not as elegant as Chenonceau, it’s still not too bad of a place to live!

Amboise

Amboise is a great medieval town, in addition to having a 15^th century chateau and the nearby Gothic Chapelle St-Hubert, Leonardo da Vinci’s burial spot.

The Chapelle St-Hubert sits on top of the walls of Amboise. It’s the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci.

A view of Amboise Chateau from the courtyard.

The chateau has quite a place in French royal history with several kings either having been born or raised here, or living and dying here. Catherine de’ Medici’s 10 children also were raised here.

Another view of the walls of Amboise with the Chateau overlooking the edge.

Although the chateau itself is a bit smaller than some of the others, the setting, town and overall feel of Amboise makes it a must-see location in the Loire Valley.

The Independent Tourist

Travel Locations and Tips for Independent Travelers